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Are you turning the carbs upside down to adjust the floats? That is on the SU video from ztherapy but it doesn't work with the valves you buy nowadays. They were using Grose valves in that video. Those are built different and would not hold the weight of the floats while setting the gap between the float and the lid of the float chamber. The newer needle valves will not hold the floats up. I fought with this for a long time then made my own "float chamber" out of a clear glass jar and set them that way. That's been about 10 years ago and I haven't had to touch them since. They run great. I got rid of the lid with long ears and use two short ear lids essentially turning them from 3 screw carbs '71-'72 to early four screw carbs '70-'71.

I had a knee replacement last November and didn't touch either one of mine until a week ago. I had to tap my carbs with a hammer to unstick the floats after hooking it up to a gas jug with new 93 octane and let it run straight from the jug to the fuel pump. It spit and sputtered, smelt like she-it but only for a few minutes. I followed Phillips recommendations on removing the tank, so read over the first of his "tips and tricks" to drain that fuel out. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

I just rebuilt the carbs and started with them both 2 full turns down, but after the above difficulties moved them both to 1.5 turns based on the service manual.

Still in original packaging. $10.

Phot says it all. Sand, paint and ready-to-go $25

The color more than anything but it does give you another leg to stand on.

I just this morning realized my '72 has all Nissan glass except the front, PPG. That means it's not 100% but a busted windshield on a 53 year old car isn't a deal breaker. It does have the blue-ish tint sun visor.

Glad you came to ZCON and gave me some inspiration on my future engine! I got a pic of our cars together and one of yours at the show Saturday. Hope to see you again at a future event!

😎

Glad to be alive . I’m a lucky guy for sure . It’s fancy but it’s all business too:)

Here is the SU tuning kit mentioned in post above. I just checked on eBay and they are available for $40. The small aluminum fitting laying on top of the gray package is the one I was referring to.

This is for you, not your car.🙂 Something I figured out after getting older and working on these cars. You can help your back when doing all that tedious engine bay stuff by simply running it up on a set of ramps or raising it up and using jack-stands to get the motor up so you're not bending over all day. Another thing I had learn the hard way was resting my elbows on the fenders would cause dents I ended popping out with a suction cup from HarborFreight. Cover the fenders with anything like towels or paint drop cloths using magnetic bowls that hold all the fasteners. I'm about to adjust the valves on mine. I use a set of Rhino ramps to get my lowered 240 up to, looks like about 38". Just a courtesy bit of advice you probably figured out way before I did and it really helps. Have fun!

Very cool! I love my ZCG brake kit. The KW stuff is probably amazing, but I can't stand the purple and yellow:)

You are right! Mechanic should get this engine running with pertronix ignitor module 1761, 1.5 coil and 1.5 ohm ballast.

Photos are of the original N33 exhaust manifold I removed from my 73. Replaced it with an earlier one when I went to round top carbs. I confirm you need a different downpipe. I was able to swap my 73 downpipe for an earlier one.

Hi Site Been a while….not sure, but whatever adds .080 inches….if they are .040 inches, 2 would do. Don’t hesitate to call Eiji….tell him you’re my cousin and if wants to keep eating steak at our house, he needs to be nice! 🤪 He’ll sell you the right stuff.

Ok thanks but would you know the casting number on the OEM exhaust manifold please ?

I believe he mentioned 10 plus years.

I've been stuck on this album for a couple of weeks now. I'll put on something else and after that finishes I'll say to myself... Let's give John Hiatt - Walk On another play.

I do, I ordered another from Nissan to replace mine. When I get back in town from Boston, I’ll post the p/n. Can’t remember if it was superseded.

I live in arizona... i bought it and it just arived in less than 24 hrs. fastest turn around for a relay i thought i would have to wait 1-2 months for.

Thanks Matthew for a great write-up =) Here is my tiny contribution to it: You were wondering about the Thermal switch 22110-E8000 and stating that it's probably for the automatic model only. I found information which connects it also with the manual model, with the emission control device (EGR) to be more precise. It can also be found from the -73 wiring diagrams (both manual/auto). Please see pictures below: Keep up the good work!

It's a EX-mouse.. 🤣

Thanks for the mention! I just updated the thread as I’m diving head first into the AFM rabbit hole. Some tips I picked up on my journey: - Clean all the electrical connectors to the sensors (also the bullet connectors in the harness). - Measure the resistance to the AFM air temperature sensor and the coolant temperature sensor to make sure there within spec (coolant sensor is one of the most important sensors in the EFI system!). - Buy or borrow a timing gun and make sure the timing is set correctly. - Verify you are getting enough spark (right type and gap spark plugs, distributer contacts in good condition, ignition coil resistance within spec (0,8 to 1 Ohm)). - Install a wideband O2 sensor with gauge (cheap Chinese one is good enough for now) or if you don’t have a bung in you exhaust buy an exhaust sniffer so you can measure you AFR (Air Fuel Ratio). Idle should be around 14,7 and wide open throttle 12,5 I believe. - Try and see (while monitoring the AFR) if only you idle or the entire rpm range is out of spec. If it’s only idle maybe try and play with the idle air screw on the AFM to get the idle AFR back into spec. And If nothing work only then take the AFM off the car and start testing the resistance values. The number 7 pin is hard to measure the resistance so you must hook it up to a battery (9 or 12V) to test the output voltage on the number 7 pin. If you determine that that is your issue then welcome to my world! As you are based in the US maybe an AFM rebuilt offered by jdm-car-parts or Z-store is an option for you. Unfortunately I am not so it would cost an fortune to do so for me in postage and import tariffs.

Little update as I don’t have much time to work on the car. After connecting the AFM to a spare battery and testing the voltage on pin 7 I noticed very inconsistent voltage readings and a lot of gaps in the carbon track even though it doesn’t look damaged. And yes I know the AFM has a logarithmic scale with a range of 0 – 9 Volt, Its basically just a voltage divider and a potentiometer in one. Here is a picture I found together with the link and some other useful links (last one is for a Range Rover but it’s the same concept and same Bosch style AFM). https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/AFMadjust.html After a bunch of searching I did fine more reference pictures of the Datsun 7 pin AFM’s and other Bosch AFM modules of the same type, that bend is 100% not supposed to be there. I did notice that if I press the copper part of the wiper hard against the carbon track I do get some sort of reading but so maybe somebody tried to “fix” the AFM by bending the wiper. Unfortunately the track has failed in its entirely and I can’t find anybody that can fix the circuit board. Enlarging the bolt slots and moving the wiper to a fresher part of the track also didn’t work. This lead me deep into the Bosch AFM rabbit hole that is the world of Datsun / BMW / Porsche forums. I found an Australian forum post that mentions a slightly larger 90’s Toyota AFM being plug and play for his L28E 280Z(X?) with the part number F201 13 210 (197100-3420). This is also a 7 pin style AFM With the same internal (and pin) layout as the Datsun 7 pin AFM’s. When looking if I could find this AFM in Europe I actually found one at a local junkyard from a 1988-1992 2.2i GT Turbo 12V Ford (USA) Probe for €25,- so I ordered it immediately to try and test this theory (same AFM was also used on the Mazda 626 and 929, also found a part number from Standerd "MF9107"). The original post did mention you need to loosen the tension on the flap by 3 teeth as the flap is bigger than the Datsun AFM’s. https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/6951-larger-afm-for-a-280zx If this doesn’t work I will continue to look for an replacement Datsun AFM that doesn’t break the bank (I know, that’s a tough one). I might also look into making a custom plug and play MAF swap. I found a US based company called Split Second that makes MAF to AFM conversion modules and MAF conversion kits for BMW’s. They also have a 0-9 Volt module (PSC1-009) that might work with the stock Datsun ECU in theory. https://splitsec.com/product/psc1-009-programmable-signal-calibrator-afm-to-maf-hv-output https://splitsec.com/wp-content/uploads/technotes/TN2_AFM_to_MAF_Conversion.pdf And yes I will post all my findings online as there isn’t much information to be found about AFM sensors and there alternatives. Also no I don’t want to carb swap my car, I want to stay EFI but don’t want to spend thousands yet to upgrade the entire EFI system. If anybody has a 0-5 Volt (or 5-0 Volt) AFM module that needs a rebuild / modernization I found an interesting company in Switzerland called SyncroSweets that swaps the wiper potentiometer for a modern programable potentiometer that’s plug and play. https://www.syncrosweets.ch/en/luftmengenmesser