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1973 240z Custom Wiring From Scratch


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Posted (edited)

I have decided that the wiring on my '73 is going to be complicated enough to warrant it's own build thread. I will post the high level stuff in the full-car build thread (https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/51541-1973-rebuild/#comments), but the details and back and forth conversation will be here.

This is going to be a huge learning process for me since I have no experience in this area.

With that said, this is where I am with this so far…

When I got the car, the harnesses were installed, but the car was otherwise stripped. I pulled the harnesses, gave them a cursory dusting off and stuffed them into a box. The dash harness is still on the dashboard, which is on a shelf.

I have been tracking an inventory of modifications I want to make to my electrical system over the past few years as I work on the rest of the car. I had a lot of ambition when I first put this list together, but I have backed off from my initial list of additional components over time. This is what I am still thinking about doing:

  • Anti-Theft Kit / Alarm (Mostly because I have one laying around that I never installed on my motorcycle)
  • Auxiliary Fuse Box or an Upgraded Fuse Box
  • Bluetooth Speaker
  • Electric Radiator Fan, plus maybe a thermostat controlled switch that would allow it to run after to car is turned off.
  • GPS
  • Third Brake Light
  • Under Dash / Footwell Lights
  • USB Socket / Phone Charger
  • LED Exterior Lights
  • 100-Amp Alternator
  • Radio Delete
  • LED Headlights
  • Rally / Fog Lights
  • 12-volt Socket (Replaces Cigarette Lighter)
  • Door / Step Lights (These are super rare and way too expensive)

Other Considerations…

  • Figure out where I am going to do this work (it's getting hot)
  • Decide which type of wire for each component (TXL, SXL, GXL, etc.)
  • Choose connectors (Original style?, Deutsch style?, AMP style?, Weatherpack style?)
  • Decide which colors to use for each color in the original harnesses
  • Find amperage / voltage / wattage for each component
  • Determine ideal wire size for each component
  • Choose distributor
  • Choose fuse box, distribution block, relay upgrades
  • Identify fuse and relay requirements for each component
  • Draw up new / modified wiring diagram
  • Choose wrapping material
  • Find shrink-wrap labels for label maker
  • Find retailers

___

Right now I have a pretty solid spreadsheet put together with all of the components I need, mapped to the wiring diagram, and tracking the parts I plan to buy.

 

Oh, and I’ve never done automotive wiring before, so this will be an experience.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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Fuse size depends the gauge of the wire you're protecting. I recommend 10A for 14 AWG, 20A for 10 AWG or 12AWG and 7.5A for 16 AWG or 18 AWG. Don't forget about maxifuses or fusible links for the system as a whole.

As I searched for vendors for wires with colored stripes, I found this place was probably about the most economical and flexible: https://www.sherco-auto.com/striped-tracer-wire.html

You may be able to adapt this for fusible links: https://www.amazon.com/1J0937617D-Battery-Terminal-Volkswagen-Octavia/dp/B0863XLF6R

As for current draw, let the factory fuse box be your guide to start. 

Fuse Box Complete.jpg

The fan is the highest draw, especially if you have AC. While the parking/tail light fuse is 20A, you can go to 10A and 14 AWG with LEDs. (IMHO the engineers undersized the wire in this circuit for incandescent bulbs.) The same goes for the flasher. The Common fuse is for the cigarette lighter. That can drop to 10A. I'm not positive about the draw on the wipers, but if you keep it at 20A, I would use 12 AWG instead of 14 AWG. The brake light circuit can also go to 10A with LEDs. Note: the fuse ratings I wrote are very much on the conservative side. However, I have seen enough melted fuse boxes and melted connectors that I prefer a conservative approach.

As for wire sizes here is a rule of thumb.

image.png

The wires for the large connectors should be 14 AWG. Use 16 AWG for the smaller connectors. On the 73 (and on through 76), Nissan started using the 9 pin connector on the headlight switch. That was a bad move. The connectors were undersized for the current of the parking lights, and that connector would melt down.

For the large bullets, I would use 10 AWG. Consider trying 8 AWG for the circuits for the ammeter.  Are you sticking with the ammeter or are you going to have a voltmeter instead?

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Posted (edited)

Thanks @SteveJ!

I think you already noticed this based on your comments, but I'll state it for anyone else who may comment: My overall goal in this is to make the ideal wiring system for the car with consideration to the modifications I am going to make, not to replicate the original. That said, I don't want to deviate wildly from original because I want to be able to go back and fix stuff if necessary. I also want to reduce complexity and weight wherever possible.

However, I also think I will go heavier than necessary with the wiring so I never have to worry about that part of the system. The things on the ends of the wires are a lot easier to fix down the road than the wires themselves.

___

Here is my first pass at an inventory of components for this project, sorted according to their position in the wiring diagram:

Mod Item Replacement In Diagram?
Stock Antenna Lead Delete Yes
Stock Antenna Lead Delete Yes
Stock Water tank   Yes
Upgrade Side Marker Lamp RH LED Bulb - Front Turn Signal Yes
Upgrade Inspection Light LED Bulb - Inspection Light Yes
Stock Horn Relay   Yes
Stock Battery   Yes
Stock Accessory Relay   Yes
Stock Choke Switch   Yes
Upgrade Map Light LED Bulb - Map Light Yes
Stock Rheostat   Yes
Stock Fuel Pump   Yes
Stock Defrost Relay   Yes
Upgrade Glove Box Light LED Bulb - Glove Box Light Yes
Upgrade Room Light LED Bulb - Dome Light Yes
Upgrade Room Light   Yes
Stock Tank Unit   Yes
Stock Step Light RH   Yes
Upgrade Side Marker RH LED Bulb - Red Marker Light Yes
Upgrade Rear Combination Light RH LED Bulb - Brake Light Yes
Upgrade Rear Combination Light RH LED Bulb - Rear Turn Signal Yes
Upgrade Rear Combination Light RH LED Bulb - Reverse Light Yes
Upgrade License Light RH LED Bulb - Plate Light Yes
Upgrade License Light LH LED Bulb - Plate Light Yes
Stock Heat - Glass   Yes
Upgrade Rear Combination Light LH LED Bulb - Brake Light Yes
Upgrade Rear Combination Light LH LED Bulb - Rear Turn Signal Yes
Upgrade Rear Combination Light LH LED Bulb - Reverse Light Yes
Stock Auto Antenna Delete Yes
Stock Antenna switch Repurpose ??? Yes
Stock Side Marker LH   Yes
Stock Step Light LH   Yes
Stock Comb. Switch   Yes
Stock Hand Break Switch   Yes
Stock Speedometer   Yes
Stock Tachometer   Yes
Stock Oil Pressure / Water Temp   Yes
Stock Fuel Gauge / Ammeter Voltmeter Yes
Stock Clock   Yes
Stock Choke Warning Light   Yes
Stock Defrost Switch   Yes
Stock Seatbelt Warning Light   Yes
Stock Fog Light Switch   Yes
Stock Door Switch RH   Yes
Upgrade Cigarette Lighter 12 volt plug Yes
Stock Seat Switch   Yes
Stock Seatbelt Switch LH   Yes
Stock Seatbelt Switch RH   Yes
Stock Neutral Switch   Yes
Stock Buzzer   Yes
Stock Door Switch LH   Yes
Stock Indicator Lamp (Auto T/M)   Yes
Stock Hazard Switch   Yes
Stock Ignition Switch   Yes
Stock Steering Lock Switch   Yes
Stock Wiper Motor 91 Honda Civic Wiper Motor Yes
Addition Wiper Motor Wiper Upgrade Relay No
Stock Buzzer   Yes
Stock Inhibitor Switch (Auto T/M)   Yes
Stock Air Con Power   Yes
Addition Air Conditioner   No
Stock Blower Switch   Yes
Stock Heater / Blower   Yes
Upgrade Side Marker Lamp LH LED Bulb - Front Turn Signal Yes
Addition Side Marker Lamp LH Side Marker LED Conversion Plugs No
Stock Parking & T/S & Side Front LH   Yes
Upgrade Head Light LH Headlight Projection Housings Yes
Upgrade Head Light LH Headlight Projection Housings Yes
Stock Horn L   Yes
Stock Fog Light LH   Yes
Stock Fog Light RH   Yes
Addition Front Fog / Rally Light Relay   No
Stock Horn R   Yes
Upgrade Head Light RH Headlight Projection Housings Yes
Upgrade Head Light RH Headlight Projection Housings Yes
Addition Head Light RH Headlight Relay Upgrade Harness No
Upgrade Parking & T/S & Side Front RH LED Bulb - Front Turn Signal Yes
Addition Parking & T/S & Side Front RH Parking Light Upgrade Harness No
Addition Parking & T/S & Side Front RH Parking Light Upgrade Harness, 70-73 No
Stock Volt Reg   Yes
Stock Voltage Regulator   Yes
Stock Thermal T/M   Yes
Stock Oil Pressure   Yes
Upgrade Fuse Box 280ZX Fuse Box Yes
Upgrade Fuse Box Long Pigtail Blade Style Fuse Box Yes
Upgrade Fuse Box Short Pigtail-Blade Style Fuse Box Yes
Upgrade Fuse Box Short Pigtail-Blade Style Fuse Box Yes
Upgrade Starter Motor Gear Reduced Starter Motor Yes
Stock Fusable Link Circuit Breaker / Fuse Yes
Upgrade Radio Stereo Delete Box Yes
Stock Reverse Switch   Yes
Stock T/S Flash SW   Yes
Stock Four Way Flasher   Yes
Stock Brake Ind.   Yes
Stock Ballast Resistor Delete ??? Yes
Stock Stop Sw   Yes
Stock Thermo sw (Auto T/m)   Yes
Upgrade Alternator Alternator - 100 Amp Yes
Addition Alternator Alternator Upgrade Plug No
Stock Fusable Link Circuit Breaker / Fuse Yes
Stock Thermo Relay (Auto T/M0   Yes
Stock Coil   Yes
Stock Distributor (Manual T/M)   Yes
Stock Distributor Condenser   No
Addition Anti-Theft Kit / Alarm   N/A
Addition Auxiliary Fuse Box   N/A
Addition Bluetooth Speaker Power   N/A
Addition Electric Radiator Fan   N/A
Addition Electric Radiator Fan Pigtail   N/A
Addition Electric Radiator Fan Temp Control Kit   N/A
Addition GPS Power   N/A
Addition Third Brake Light   N/A
Addition Under Dash / Footwell Lights   N/A
Addition USB Socket / Phone Charger   N/A
Upgrade LED Bulb - Dashboard Light Set   N/A
Stock Fuel Sender Electrical Connector   No
Stock Electric Fuel Pump Wiring Install Kit Harness Relay   No

 

@SteveJ, I don't know if I will be going with the ammeter I have or converting to a voltmeter. I need to look at the pros and cons of that change. In fact, I have not decided if I am keeping the factory gauges at all. This is a restomod and I have already made irreversible changes, so I don't know. I might also address the 9-pin switch by backdating that to an earlier version.

 

Any suggestions on other changes anyone has that will make the car better would be much appreciated. I am hoping this thread can turn into a resource for others and not just me tracking my progress.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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A wonderful and admirable project. 

My thoughts.

ditch the ammeter, voltmeter only. No need to have lots of high current wire running around with no purpose. and go aftermarket gauges without doubt. Don’t forget the AFR gauge as well. Vendors make 3d printed adapters for speedhut gauges for S30’s.

Join the world of Deutsch connectors and/or weatherpack. Relatively small investments and easy to crimp and make waterproof connections. Like the brake line world, once you invest in the tooling (good pair of crimpers), all wiring issues become simple to handle rather than a pain in the, well you know.  

Since you still need to interface to OEM components, vintageconnections.com has many of the stock pins and connector shells you need. 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks @zKars! I'll take your comments into account. I was already leaning toward Deutsch or Weatherpack connectors. The gauges I had not considered changing due to the lack of dual options out there, but I'll look around.

In addition to suggestions for adding or swapping things, if anyone sees anything on my list that they think I should take off, please let me know. For example, I had someone tell me to ditch the electric fan and keep the original, but I am not sure about that because I am going to add air conditioning.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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I used weather pack in my harness and I’d recommend them. Easy to crimp and pin…and de-pin! The only downside to them is they’re bulky. I used the 280 series if I recall correctly and the 6 pin isn’t small. I do know they have slimmer series though up to 12 pin I believe. But for the large bulkhead connectors I used a molex style. Deutsch has some nice connectors, especially if you want the whole chassis to be the same connector style. Definitely get a quality crimper!!
 

For wiring I went GXL. I felt it provided sufficient coverage for regular driving. 11 colors was enough diversity for me to not get mixed up. But I did remove alot of the OEM options (door lights, buzzers, safety, etc). Wirebarn was a good source for this. 
 

Check out my build thread for more details on it and feel free to ask any questions! 

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I went through the wiring diagram I have, which I downloaded from this site, and captured the wire colors running to each component in the stock system. I am planning to use this list to figure out what color wire to change to when I am unable to source wiring in the stock colors, but I thought I would post it here for anyone who wants it.

Item OEM Wire Color
Water tank • Black
• Black w/ Yellow
Side Marker Lamp RH • Black
• Green w/ Blue
Inspection Light • Ground
• Red w/ Blue
Horn Relay • Green
• Green w/ Black
• Green w/ Red
Battery • Black
• Black
• Ground
Accessory Relay • Blue
• Black
• White w/ Red
• Blue
Choke Switch • Black
• Red w/ Blue
Map Light • Black
• Red w/ Blue
Rheostat • Green w/ White
• Red w/ Blue
Fuel Pump • Yellow
• Black
Defrost Relay • Blue w/ Red
• Black
• White w/ Red
• Red w/ Black
Glove Box Light • Ground
• Red w/ Blue
Room Light • Black
• Red w/ Blue
Tank Unit • Yellow
• Black
Step Light RH • Black
• Red w/ Blue
Side Marker RH • Black
• Green w/ White
Ground • Black
Rear Combination Light RH
• White w/ Black
• Green w/ White
• Black
• Red w/ Black
Rear Combination Light RH
Rear Combination Light RH
License Light RH • Black
• Black
License Light LH • Black
• Black
Heat - Glass • Red w/ Black
• Black
Rear Combination Light LH
• White w/ Black
• Green w/ White
• Black
• Red w/ Black
Rear Combination Light LH
Rear Combination Light LH
Auto Antenna • Blue w/ Red
• Blue w/ White
• Black
• Antenna Lead
Antenna switch • Blue w/ Red
• Blue w/ White
• Blue
Side Marker LH • Black
• Green w/ White
Step Light LH • Black
• Red w/ Blue
Comb. Switch • Green w/ Blue (1)
• Green w/ White (2)
• White w/ Red (19)
• Black (3)
• Blue w/ Yellow (4)
• Blue w/ White (5)
• Red (20)
• Blue (6)
• Red w/ Blue (7)
• Blue w/ Red (8)
---
• Green w/ Yellow (9)
• White w/ Red (10)
• White w/ Black (11)
• Green w/ Red (12)
• Green w/ Black (13)
• White (14)
• Red w/ White (15)
• Red w/ Black (16)
• _____ (17)
• Green w/ Black (18)
Hand Break Switch • Ground
• Yellow w/ Blue
Speedometer • Red w/ Blue
• Red w/ Blue
• Red
• Red w/ White
• Yellow w/ Blue
• Red w/ Blue
Tachometer • Green
• Red w/ Blue
• Green w/ Black
• Green w/ White
• Black w/ White
• Green w/ Red
• Red w/ Blue
• Black
Oil Pressure / Water Temp • Black
• Yellow w/ White
• Green to Yellow w/ Red
• Red w/ Blue
• Green to Yellow w/ Red
• Yellow w/ White
Fuel Gauge / Ammeter • White w/ Red
• White
• Red w/ Blue
• Yellow
• Green to Yellow w/ Red
• Black
Clock • Black
• Red w/ Blue
• Blue
Choke Warning Light • Red w/ Blue
• Red
Defrost Switch • [MISSING]
• Blue w/ Red
• Blue
Seatbelt Warning Light • Black
• Green
Fog Light Switch • Red
• Red w/ Green
Door Switch RH • Black
• Black
• Ground
Cigarette Lighter • Blue w/ White
• Black
Seat Switch • Red
• Green w/ Black
Seatbelt Switch LH • Green w/ Black
• Green
Seatbelt Switch RH • Green
• Green w/ Black
Neutral Switch • Green
• Green
Buzzer • Green
• Black
Door Switch LH • Black
• Black
• Black
• Black
• Ground
Indicator Lamp (Auto T/M) • Black
• Red w/ Blue
Hazard Switch • Green w/ White (1)
• Green w/ Red (2)
• Green w/ Black (3)
• Green (4)
• Green (5)
• Green w/ Yellow (6)
• Green w/ Yellow (7)
• White w/ Black (8)
• White w/ Red (9)
Ignition Switch • Black w/ Yellow (1)
• Black w/ White (2)
• White w/ Red (3)
• Blue w/ Red (4)
• Green w/ Blue (5)
Steering Lock Switch • Red
• Black
Wiper Motor • Black (E)
• Blue w/ Red (B)
• Blue (L)
• Blue w/ White (M)
• Blue w/ Yellow (H)
Buzzer • Yellow
• Red
Inhibitor Switch (Auto T/M) • Black w/ Yellow
• Black w/ Yellow
• Red w/ Black
• Red
Air Con Power • Red to Blue
Blower Switch • Red
• Black
• Black
Heater / Blower • Red
• Black
• Black
• Ground
Side Marker Lamp LH • Black
• Green w/ Blue
Parking & T/S & Side Front LH • Black
• Green w/ Red
• Green w/ Blue
Head Light LH • Red w/ Black
• Red w/ White
• Red w/ Yellow
Horn L • Green
• Ground
Fog Light LH • Black
• Red
Fog Light RH • Black
• Red
Horn R • Green
• Ground
Head Light RH • Red w/ Black
• Red w/ White
• Red w/ Yellow
Parking & T/S & Side Front RH • Black
• Green w/ Blue
• Green w/ Black
Voltage Regulator • Black (E)
• White (A)
• White w/ Black (F)
• Yellow (N)
• _____ (L)
• _____ (–)
• Black w/ White (IG)
Thermal T/M • Yellow w/ White
• Ground
Oil Pressure • Yellow w/ White
• Ground
Fuse Box • Green w/ Red (H)
• Green w/ Yellow (S)
• Red w/ Blue (PT)
• Red w/ Blue (PL)
• Red (HR)
• Red w/ Yellow (HL)
• Blue w/ White (C)
• Blue (A)
• Blue w/ Red (W)
• _____ (F)
• Black w/ White (IG)
• Blue w/ Red (C)
• _____ (–)
• _____ (–)
• _____ (–)
• Red (–)
• White w/ Red (A)
• White w/ Red (A)
• _____ (–)
• White (B)
Starter Motor • Black
• Black
• Black w/ Yellow
• Ground
Fusable Link • Black
Radio • Ground
• Black
• Red w/ Blue
• Antenna Lead
Reverse Switch • Red w/ Black
• Red
Turn Signal Flash Switch • Green
• White
Four Way Flasher • Blue w/ White
• Green w/ White
Brake Indicator • Yellow w/ Blue
• Ground
Stop Switch • Green w/ Yellow
• Green w/ Yellow
Ballast Resistor • Green w/ White
• Black w/ White
Thermo sw (Auto T/m) • Black w/ White
• Green
Alternator • Black (E)
• _____ (A)
• White w/ Black (F)
• Yellow (N)
• _____ (–)
• _____ (–)
• _____ (–)
• _____ (–)
• _____ (–)
• _____ (–)
• Fusible Link (A)
• Black (E)
Fusable Link • White w/ Red
Thermo Relay (Auto T/M0 • Green
• Black
• Black
• Red w/ Black to Black
Coil • Black
• (To Distributor)
Distributor (Manual T/M) • Black
• (From Coil)
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Posted (edited)

I have some noob questions maybe some of you can help me out with:

Is it better to build the wiring for mods into the main body harness or make a separate one that attaches to the main one, given I am starting from scratch?

Can I somehow repurpose the Thermo Switch / Thermo Relay for an automatic transmission to control my electric radiator fan?

Could I repurpose the wires for the automatic antenna and antenna switch for anything, like power for a Bluetooth speaker, for example?

Could I repurpose the wires for the Inhibitor switch for an automatic transmission for anything?

Could I repurpose the wires for the indicator lamp for an automatic transmission for anything?

Edited by Matthew Abate
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If I was to rewire a car I would be looking to use a PDM - power distribution module also called PMU. They are a solid state device that simplifies wiring and does away with the traditional fuses. it allows for peak current management, retries if current exceeded, logic, timers, etc. There are a few on the market. If you were also going to change the gauges, look at CANbus gauges. They can integrate with the PMU.

The PMU would also allow you to change inputs and outputs so you could repurpose beore or after installed.

 

The PDU's cost a bit but you save on wiring and the time to install. 

https://www.ecumaster.com.au/products/ecumaster-pmu

The PMU route is a bit of a rabbit hole as is CANbus, but does modernise the entire setup.

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This is super cool! It also sort of negates the reason I got a 240z, which is to have a car with no computer that I can fix myself. It also costs 2/3rds what the car cost me.

I am looking at going with a more modern ignition system though…

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Posted (edited)

Okay. Made a nail board…

0265E5B4-004E-4FAC-A636-72707D482A23.jpeg

It’s flimsy and probably too small, but it fits in my home office so I can theoretically work on this when it’s crazy hot out. I’m hoping that makes the project more likely to move forward.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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Okay, the body harness has been stripped.

71795D6A-007F-48A7-88DD-E05B6EDC55E2.jpeg
 

I am very glad I didn’t try to use this thing. It’s melted / burnt in two places and has been messed with and rewrapped in three places. The next step is to compare this to the diagram and see what the story is.

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I just learned something that is not immediately obvious to someone who has never done this kind of thing before: The positions and lengths of the lines in the wiring diagram DO NOT correspond to my harness very closely at all.

Yes, the wires connecting one component to another are captured in the diagram, but there is no relationship between either the length or the proximity of one wire to another in that diagram to what is in the car.

What I mean by this is the just because two wires are next to each other in the diagram does not mean they are in a same harness. The best example of this are the blue/white and blue/red wires that go from the antenna switch to the antenna. In the diagram these are very short and not near anything else. These two wires are the longest wires in my body harness, where they are twisted up with 18 other wires.

There is also a random blue wire in the 1973 diagram coming from the Accessory Relay and going to nothing. It goes between the two flashers in the dash and just stops in the empty space.

Just a word of caution to anyone else jumping into their first wiring project with both feet. They’re great for checking wire colors but you need a physical representation to refer to in order to make a new harness.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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Okay, my plans suffered their first casualty: I will not be going with an electric compressor on my AC system. It’s possible, but I would need to have a 200 amp alternator to handle the draw. The one I have is 100 and can’t cover it. I would also have to figure out some kind of controller to make sure it was operating and cycling correctly, and I’m trying to avoid computers. The thing that really tipped it over the edge, though, is having to move it out of the engine bay to keep it cool. These things are too big and need pipes to the condenser, even if you move the condenser somewhere too, so there isn’t an obvious place to put it.

So that simplifies my project a little. I can probably pull the trigger on my AC parts now.

—-

I think I want to have my additional interior components on a new / additional harness. I haven’t decided if it would attach to the body harness or the dash harness yet, but it is for my additional power supplies to charge phones and a Bluetooth speaker. At least two of them will be USB-C plugs, and the last either a 12-volt plug or another USB-C.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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I have verified that is is the right harness for my car by the part number printed on the white shrink near the blue clip (24014-n3300). It isn't the one that came with the car, which I can tell because it has metallic green overspray on it and I am pretty sure my car never had. I think it is for a 7/72 to 7/73 car, which mine is (7/73), but it has the black connector sleeves for the defroster, which came on the 75-83 harnesses according to Banzai Motorworks.

I still have two things I have not been able to figure out about this harness, though:

1. This one is minor. The room light wires should be Red w/ Blue, Black, and Black. I have 3 long wires that I know are for the room light based on the connectors on the ends, but they are Red w/ Blue, Black, and Red w/ Black. Is this maybe just a foible of my harness? I know these aren't mixed up with the defroster wires because I have accounted for those and verified them by the connectors on those wires, even though they are the same colors. This would not be the only place where the wire colors deviate from the diagram. The rear combination light connectors don't match the diagram either, but they do match the FSM.

B07D0DD3-F575-4679-A2D6-39FE81D8E3DC.jpeg

 

2. This one is perplexing. I have two wires (White & White w/ Black stripe) coming out of the harness at the same point as the two wires that go to the left rear marker light. I haven't been able to find these in any of the wiring diagrams for any year.

As far as I can tell, these do not go to the tail lights, license plate lights, fuel pump or sensor, antenna, or marker lights. Is this maybe a European, Canadian, Californian, or Right-Hand-Drive harness? Some of the diagrams specify market-specific options and others are USA only. They do have the same connectors as the Step Light wires on the other end of the harness, but that runs into the door from the front on the right side. The left door switch is on the dash harness, plus the connectors don't match, so it isn't that. Maybe rear fog lights (not in the diagram)?

I'm pretty sure that these supply signal and power to the speaker that was in the left rear quarter panel.

E0EFFE2C-5862-4AA1-9446-C57211D92731.jpeg

 

Any help figuring this out would be much appreciated!

Edited by Matthew Abate
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