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Here is the link for the fan blade at ZCD. I have always felt their shipping was kind of high priced, but that would also be part of the price. I would be about half of that price but it would be a used fan. I would check for cracks if interested but all will show some wear. They show an 8 blade and I have seen 7 blade fans as well. Z Car Depot IncCooling Fan Blade Radiator OEM 240Z 260Z 280ZFan Blade Mechanical OEM 240Z 260Z 280Z - 200-460 (). New OEM plastic fan blade for Datsun 240Z -260Z-280Z 1970-78.

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The author is the founder of the magazine. "Ben Branch has been a professional writer for the better part of 20 years, starting out as a contributor and columnist for print publications like Time Out Magazine. As the digital era came of age and print publications (mostly) disappeared, Ben switched to writing for established online publications, then founded Silodrome in 2010. ... If you would like to contact Ben regarding his work here or just touch base with him, you can reach out to the Silodrome team via our official Contact Us page here. " SilodromeBen Branch - Author PageBen Branch has been a professional writer for the better part of 20 years, starting out as a contributor and columnist for print publications like

Good information. Thanks for the followup. There was none, now there is some. Well done.

And I'm probably going to end up with a generic powder fire extinguisher. Yes, they are messy, but they're so ubiquitous and easy to get. I'm thinking if things get dire enough that I have to use it, the last thing I'm going to be concerned with is the mess.

As of this date it is NLA from Nissan !

Facebook marketplace $100. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1265446158557795/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-8463486491996509719%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%224732611337300919667%22%2C%22top_level_post_id%22%3A%224732611337300919667%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A4732611337300919667%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A78%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A8680157257122688039%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0.00097449886189893%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A3523%2C%5C%22candidate_retrieval_source_map%5C%22%3A%7B%5C%2225209201332002879%5C%22%3A626%2C%5C%2225037753125825021%5C%22%3A626%7D%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%2C%22lightning_feed_qid%22%3A%22-8463536038638864453%22%2C%22lightning_feed_ranking_signature%22%3A%228680157257122688039%22%7D

What a cool song! I like this better than Howlin' Wolf's OG version. Kind of sad after watching Wolf's documentary. His mother hated him for singing "the devil's music". Beat you @Zed Head hahaha!

3M has always worked well for me.

Does it not catch onto the threads, one side of the notch isn't turned up a little? I don't understand any other reason for it.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/477795897_1011115091063663_8033328159812275787_n.jpg Our Z Car Garage KW V3 Suspension is available in limited quantities. These coil-overs offer game-changing performance suitable for street, track and daily-driving for your S30 Datsun Z car. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/IMG_6502.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/481184467_1024485623059943_4520335096885803442_n.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/480235492_1011115124396993_2250652587135409969_n.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/IMG_8079.jpg View the suspension installed on Sung Kang’s RB26DETT-powered Datsun 240Z, Larry Chen’s SR20DET-Powered Datsun 240Z, James’ turbocharged L-series powered Datsun 240Z, Mrs. Butters, our Series 1 shop 240z and more client cars in the photos below. For more information on ordering and pricing please contact RobATzcargarage.com. Christopher’s 1977 Datsun 280Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/IMG_0100.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/79132B3E-9580-4354-8193-A495343542AA.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Snapinsta.app_435453951_1100584987877003_6251338209217300970_n_1080.jpg Rashid’s Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/IMG_3644-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/IMG_3668-1024x768.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/IMG_3660-768x1024.jpeg Larry Chen’s SR20DET-Powered Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/482238822_1031449779030194_8541949018636167241_n.jpg David’s Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/IMG_3914-768x1024.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/IMG_3658-1024x768.jpeg Sung Kang’s RB26DETT-powered Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/230321attctn01_AD4I1590-1024x683-1.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/IMG_6847-768x1024.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/489963857_10161147860356524_8556000592169917657_n-scaled.jpg Rick’s BRE-240Z inspired track car http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/320600770_1009589563765747_4277675222190800456_n-1024x892.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/IMG_7934.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/IMG_7942.jpg Yoni’s Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/482246435_1031972718977900_6077886151500554509_n.jpg James’ turbocharged L-series powered Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/IMG_6794-1024x768.jpeg Mrs. Butters, our Series 1 shop 240z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/468610894_1296792398175930_6743499117304711_n.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/508182070_10161384649461524_7603414350984985404_n.jpg View the full article

Thank you

Hi, I'm looking for a nice hood for my '72 Z. Anybody got a nice one for sale? I'm located in Seattle, WA. Thanks!! JH

Ahh. This is interesting & helpful. My tip is closer to the red (stock) above. And my corner (1 of them ) is closer to the red one too, although I'm uncovering atleast 1/8 inch of bondo (see pic) Question #2: Does anyone have any info/experience related to the remanufactured steel hoods available on ebay, etc? I see that they're going for anywhere from $800-ish to $1200-ish. I'm considering that as option. Any thoughts, advice, etc? Thnx! JH

Thanks for sharing! I don't watch much TV, so when Diane told me there was a Nissan ad with what looked like a yellow version of my 240, I had to check. Cool ad, although there will be those among us who find the rubber-burning, wheel-spinning parts to be "deeply offensive," to which I say, "suck it up baby sisters."

That makes sense, but the problem is really just cosmetic (once I've confirmed that the exhaust problem has been corrected), so I don't think I want to go as far as adding a second strut to correct it. I don't think all cars with the single strut have raised driver side hatches, though, so I'm thinking that there are other ways to address this. If the hinges are worn, that might be a place to start, or maybe the two hinges just need to be adjusted relative to each other to lower the driver's side? At this point I haven't glued the seals back in or attempted to adjust the hinges or latch, so I think I'll move ahead with those steps and see how close I can get things to flush. The upper portion of the new inner seal is almost vertical when installed. When the hatch is closed the vertical portion slides outward against the underside of the hatch to create the seal, so I expect it to compress a little over time as well. As an aside, I was happy to see that, with a couple of careful initial closings where I manipulated the seal at the hinges, the seal is sliding over them properly. Both my original seal and the replacement were mangled by the hinges. I've been procrastinating on the next steps because I know I'm not going to enjoy removing the adhesive from the car before gluing the new seal in, but I'll report back when I've made progress.

If you do one at the time you have a (mirrored) example there to see how it sits/comes together again.. and... ALWAYS make pictures BEFORE taking apart.. it's so easy to miss that sequence of the little rings/parts on there! RULE NUMBER ONE: MAKE PICTURES OF EVERYTHING YOUR GONNA RESTORE!

The first versions were (as far as i know) never sold officially, but only delivered for testing as prototypes. Some ended up in private ownership. but i guess those were very few. The upgraded suspension, front and rear spoilers, 5-speed transmission and the different front turn signals, etc were standard equipment on all european cars. Even though the parts catalogue lists things as optional, as far as i know, most (all?) european Datsun importers didn't sell any dealership options and most cars were sold as standard european final spec cars. Aside from Portugal, of course, which had their own specifications.

I think it can be unbolted with the fenders on. just enough room with a swivel, a bent wrench, some friends and a 6 pack. lol The backing plates can be retrieved if they fall, use a stick magnet, you might have to remove the ECU, Holding them in place while starting the bolts is another circus act. get some friends back over and a 12 pack. haha!!

@MH77280Z has done this on a 280 if I remember correctly. May be of some help to you. After seeing what you did to your older garage, I'm a little claustrophobic and it made me cringe, I am so happy for you and your new space. 🙂

IRON CROSS WHEELS SOLD.

280ZX TURBO engine SOLD.

Over the last few days, I was busy in my workshop, getting some small tasks completed on my Z project. Time for a little update. After installing the partial gearbox to test fit the brackets and stuff, I realized that the gear lever is too much in the front of the hole: A quick look into the manual made it clear: I had mounted the lever the wrong way. So, gear box rear-end out, gear lever corrected: And back in, this time, correctly: Then I spent a lot of time at the rear end of the car. I had to clean the holes for the three taillight panels, so that the plastic rivets would lock properly. After that i re-installed the taillights, and ensured the sealing rubbers were set correctly, using my "string-trick": Next i have to finish the slightly worn chrome / metal trim around the taillight panels and get them back on: While working at the rear, i decided to install all those fasteners, stoppers, alignment pieces, guides, etc. Like those rubber spacers: And trunk dampers. I have a NOS set of everything, so the installed ones are only temporary, to not mess up the new ones: And the last bit at the rear end was to align the trunk / hatch. The body shop had installed some spacers to get it straight, but after all the parts got installed, I had to remove them again and massage a few areas lightly to have it all aligned: Next? Seat rails. I had those Bride seat rails from my Histrix lying around for a while and wanted to test-fit them. I'm most probably going to use something different setup in the end, but I wanted to ensure that the distance and position of the seat mounting brackets was right after all the bodywork. I thought the best way was to use the original seat rail mounting studs and spacers. Since I had several highly-damaged OEM seats, I hammered out the fasteners and used the plastic spacers after grinding away the factory spot-welds on the bolts. This worked unexpectedly well, so now I can do some trials with different seats, rails and setups - to figure out what will go into the car in the end. Next: I realized that I didn't have any upper rear number plate light in my part collection. Luckily, Florian from Datsun-Autowerk was kind enough to send me one of his broken ones including some other parts (more on that in a following post), for trials. After puzzling and glueing all the parts together... I could mock it up all together and drill the required holes. Fun-fact: I always thought that slight "dent" in the gray metal piece was a production fault of the reproduction panel, but it's actually there to make space for the number plate lighting bolt. After the holes were done and cleaned, I got the upper plastic part installed. And then the whole thing with the lens. Note all bolts and the light itself are temporary units for the mock-up only, final parts will be correct and fresh. Looks good if you ask me! Special thanks to the person who gave me the hint with the holes (I wasn't able to find the mail anymore, but you know who you are!) And then? Spoiler-Alert. Again. After i realized that the currently installed spoiler is beyond repair, I remembered that I had another one lying around. But it was bent in all directions and super wobbly: But all the brackets were still in good shape, so I gave them a little wire wheel brush and corrosion protection: I placed them on our terrace, which tends to get quite hot now in summer And let it take the heat every day. My thought was that the Polyurethane gets weak and goes either back in its natural shape by itself, or can be massaged. At the end, some areas turned out to be pretty stiff, even with heat and required some proper bending over my special bending bench :-) It didn't really work out. It's way better than in the beginning, but still super wobbly. I thought if i'd install it on the car, it might straighten itself a bit. Let's see. I have my doubts. The good thing is, there seems to be another spoiler on the horizon :-) I've seen worse ones, but yeah. Not good enough for me: I also went through my plated fasteners and sorted them a bit. I got various boxes over the years from various collectors and Z-specialists, so it was about time to ensure I find what I'm looking for :-) The to-do list gets smaller by the week. And there's not much left from my side, but some tricky bits. I guess I've earned my favorite Japanese "Hitachino Nest" beer for today.

I like to use a wooden shim. Find one that is the right thickness and mark it with a sharpy. Works really well...

Hi cgsheen1! Thanks for the recommendations. I am running the latest version of Microsquirt, 440cc Bosch injectors, Spartan 3 v2, crank 36-1 wheel with HALL sensor, LM7 truck coils with batch firing, AZC oil pan. I will try making Microsquirt work with the turbo (no sequential ignition). I have only one output left (relay) which I can use for an electric fan, for ex. I was aiming for 8-10 lbs of boost to play it safe and keeping my stock rear diff/half-shafts alive. I looked up some parts from rockauto and here is a list if it works? EXEDY 06030 clutch kit, 1975 2+2 Flywheel: AMS AUTOMOTIVE / RHINOPAC 167304, for 2+2 model Throwout bearing, WJB / INMOTION PARTS WRDNE01576C (any manufacturer preference?) Hopefully, if the car parts are for 2+2 model, I am not going to run into any issues with the fitment/clutch fork throw. I just installed a brand new master and slave clutch cylinders (for my 280z 1976 model). Will this create a problem? (I checked the part numbers, they are the same for 76 and 75, I think I should be good here). I started a thread here on hybridz dealing with my project: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/136053-76-280z-microsquirt-project/ Thanks! Den