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I love that beetle too. I've got one that I hope looks like that one day...

Dang! Pictures of people in sweats! Down here we're still just sweating... 🤔

It's worth what someone is willing to pay for it. However, the main problem with what the current market is willing to pay is the color change, never a good idea. Also, there are a few body/paint issues that the listing details. The old market might have been willing to pay as much as - my opinion - 80k but the current market did indeed speak. The upper middle class collector car market is keeping their powder dry.

Wow! Let’s meet in Tokyo some time ! Kats

Yes, it is the same reproduction part i make.

A little rain makes everything better!

Hi, I did some work refreshing for metal headlight bowl case of my Z432. In Japan, headlights case has a note “右配光” (Aiming to the right) and “L o R.” Is that its lens cut different? I have a new set of the light bowl but I don’t want to use it because new replacements from Nissan has different shape of the plastic screw cover.Original is also a see through plastic but new one is white. So I cleaned it and painted it with hand written “右配光 R(L)” “12V” Please note earlier type doesn’t have tiny holes for retaining the rubber seal to the metal bowl. Kats

Hi, Have we discussed this before? The date code appeared on the MIYAMOTO horn. 01/70 Z432 has S 12, 03/70 240Z has T2 06/72 240ZG has V6 So I read it like this, S 12 means 1969 December T2 means 1970 February, V6 means 1972 June. How about yours? Kats

Yesterday and today, I spent some time working on the car again. I haven't been working on it much, as I have been working on my track Z some more instead, and I had tenants move out, so I have been spending some time over the last few weekends at a rental house doing things that needed attention. I am still hesitant to modify my SM spec SU needles. Taking a lessor path of resistance, I swapped out the 10W-30 oil for some 20W-50 to see what a difference that would make. What got me thinking about doing that was the "drop test" of the SU pistons. From fully up to fully dropped, there seemed to be almost no damping. So, I decided to try a change. Comparing/contrasting, the throttle response is not as lightning quick as it was. However, the lean condition on overrun is noticeably less. I think I like the 20W50 better overall. I might try 10W-40 as well to see about getting a bit better throttle response (for rev matching downshifts). If I am cruising and I snap the throttle fully open, the engine and car respond quickly - it accelerates nicely. So, maybe the 20W50 is fine. I don't know what to do regarding the SU dampers. They are original Nissan ones - probably original to the carbs on the car. The "barrels" seem to have wear, just judging by their appearance. The barrels have an OD of a little more than .346". I purchased an SU rebuild kit, which came with new needle and seats, and dampers recently. However, I didn't use either. I found the problem with the existing needle and seats. The rear one just needed to be polished inside to keep it from sticking as when it was machined, it was finished with a coarse finish. Also, the new dampers have a "longer throw" than the original ones - the sleeve portion of the damper has a longer amount of free movement. I didn't want to introduce that change, so I have held off on switching them out. Also, the new damper sticks do not have low and high marks for oil level like the original ones have. However, the barrels measure at, or just above .346", just like the "worn" originals. So, again, given all of these things, I didn't feel like installing them. At present, I have the mixture nuts turned out precisely 2.5 turns front and back. When warm, the AFR at idle is around 11.8. At cruise on flat road, the AFR is about 14.8. I still see AFR get lean if I try to accelerate a small or medium amount. This often happens when the road changes to a slight incline. AFR on a slight incline, trying to maintain the same speed tends to be in the high 15's and can reach low 16's. If I smash the throttle to the floor, I typically see AFRs in the 12.4 to 13 range. With the 10W-30 oil, on long instances of throttle shut deceleration (like from third to second - rev match, and then just decel in second with throttle shut), the AFR would climb up to 18s... or 19s even. With the 20W50, AFR will spike lean on throttle shut decel for an instant, but then AFR will return to normal range (13 to 14). Much less popping from the exhaust with 20W50. I need to do some data logging again so I am not just pulling these from memory. I haven't heard of anyone with Hitachi SU's changing the springs, but watching various Youtube videos, it seems like changing springs is pretty standard with tuning British SU's, and it is typically done before attempting to modify needles. It looks like order of march is springs, dampers, oil, then needles. I think I'd like to try some springs which are bit stiffer. And I'd like to try 10W-40 instead of 20W-50. Maybe I will do these things before I try to modify the needles.

I messed with the radiator hoses today and had some of the same issues I had before. Here's the lower rad hose: \ And here's an example of how unattached the braid sheath is to the rubber underneath: And this happens when you slip the hose clamp over the end: And here's an example of the inconsistent braid density that I mentioned earlier. Most prevalent on the outsides of bends, which makes sense. Some areas are so sparse that there is big gaps in the braiding. Looks like this: Compare this to the original stock stuff: I know you can't get the stock stuff anymore, which is why you end up paying "only game in town prices", but still... This is what it says in the description: "All of our braided rubber hoses are very accurate replicas of the factory braided style hoses, they have been carefully molded to have the exact curves and bends like the originals!" Maybe they had a bad batch where there were quality issues. I just don't have the time to deal with it now. Maybe after Zcon. I also see in the ad that there is a warranty. I'm going to look into this when I have some time to breath: "We are confident in the quality and craftsmanship of our products, as a result we cover all of our products with our Resurrected Classics Parts Promise. This is a Lifetime Warranty that covers any manufacturing defects with your product during your ownership and entitles you to a new replacement of that part with free shipping. This warranty does not cover damage due to improper installation/handling, accidents, or improper modification. This limited warranty does not cover incidental, consequential, indirect, or special damages."

My mechanic finally solved the 11 year old problem by resdjusting the carbs with the temperature of the car during traffic jams, 3/4 of the Temp gauge and an MSD blaster coil. Now he is asking me for a diagram or schematic to get the petronix 1.5 coil and 1.5 ballast resistor running and the 1972 240z tachometer working alltogether. Can seem to find it in the web or haynes manual. Do you have any reference for this? Guess the stock tachometer wont work with the MSD blaster 2 coil.

I'm almost... say 95% sure that bend in that contact arm is original.. It's there for adding just a little more stability to the contactarm.

So how bad do you want your turn signals working? Hahahaha!!!! ☺️

You've probably heard these songs but didn't know the artist. Same guy. He wrote one of them. Wahhh wah wah wah...

Looks to be the same, although I have never had the Subaru one in my hand. Here is a write up on the two. JDMjunkies.ch240Z: Subaru R180 LSD Diff swap Parts - JDMjunkies.chSo, with the recent progress on the chassis and body, i thought it’s time to kickstart some long-pending projects. One thing i had in mind for a while was to fix the differntial. It was not really bro

Greetings and welcome to the group, HLS30-365101. Some pages ago, we were discussing the quality control checklist. At the urging of SpeedRoo, I dug through my files to find my copy of the "240Z Restoration Program Quality Control Checklist". The checklist I have is some 40 pages with an introduction overview page and 20 or so pages of procedure descriptions organized by component with columns for notes, sign-off and date. For instance; under the brake / clutch / hydraulic component, one of the procedures is "All rubber brake hoses: replace" and in the notes column it says; "Use DOT 3 brake fluid". During the restoration program there were two final inspections and four inspection sign-off points during various stages of the restoration process. Of note to our Plating conversation; checklist item "All steel brake lines: check for kinks, condition of flared ends", notes "Cad plate all brake lines possible. Replace any corroded lines." Attachment D of the checklist is a two page copy of Wick Humble's book; "How to Restore your Datsun Z-Car" discussing fasteners, everything about fasteners from engineering standards to thread pitch and sizes. From Attachment D; "How about the fastener's finish? The manufacturer plated every metal fastener...on the Z car, it is predominantly what platers call yellow zinc, that multi-tinted golden finish used on most bolts and nuts exposed to the elements. Plain natural-colored zinc is also used on some parts."

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/IMG_2212.jpg EXPERIENCED TECHNICIAN WANTED Looking for a Job? – How about a great career? Z Car Garage is looking for an experienced technician to be part of our team. This is not an average 9 to 5 automotive job: the ideal candidate must be motivated, passionate and ready to put in the work so we can continue building classic Z cars and late model Nissans. We work 4-10hr days and offer competitive pay/benefits with opportunities for growth Requirements: Automotive experience, your own set of tools, willingness to learn Nissan/Datsun experience is NOT a requirement, you just need to have passion We are heavily involved in motorsports with up to 10 vintage race events a year. From race cars to street cars and performance tuning…to routine maintenance and keeping vintage cars on the road, we love what we do! Interested or know someone who might be a good fit? PLEASE SHARE THIS and spread the word. Send your CV to rob@zcargarage.com and call us at (408)452-0350. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/m7adecg2dtll13wip5pe-1024x683.jpg Check out our shop on this episode of Hoonigan Autofocus with Larry Chen: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/5F24647E-32F8-4459-B754-6B6287E00CC5-1024x1024.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/IMG_2207.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/88CD2167-7294-478B-AB75-A7FA819EC6C2-1024x768.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/IMG_6968-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/abumamyjnbbjolokrdsz-1024x683.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/IMG_4938-1024x768.jpg View the full article

Harmon brakes in GA can probably handle your booster... The reaction disc is the little rubber disc on the end of the chrome pushrod. Im not sure the ZX's had it?

This should probably be in the carb discussion section rather than electronics.

Pretty late to the party but both Z’s in the video where (I believe) owned by the same guy at that time. He unfortunately sold the orange one and repainted the gray Z to yellow but ultimately sold that car as well for a BMW E92 M3. He now goes by @Dutch_e92m3 on Instagram.

I just purchased some parts from UAE and Spain, pre-August 29 tariff effective date. Speedy delivery and low shipping costs via ebay. For obscure parts, identify a ebay seller based overseas who have extensive listings and ask if they have (or can locate) the parts. Keith

Thanks guys, in the mid term im going to cap it off with an hps 19mm coolant bypass cap. I think I will pick up a spare 3 way pipe as well and see about having it welded / capped off.

Here is a complete E88 cylinder head including valve cover. Ran when parked over 30 years ago. Lubed and free spinning. I would take $300 plus shipping for this head from a ClassicZCars member. Ebay Listing Here

Something's wrong with the first listing. Broken link. The $589 is "Buy it now" and the other is an auction, with three bids to $56. I don't know if EBay auctions have a reserve or not. I'd guess maybe the seller can just not complete the deal? From what I've seen, the way to set a reserve on eBay is to set the reserve as the minimum bid to beat. Maybe he forgot or doesn't know to do that. The $589 is $539 with a coupon.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_9860.jpg WE LOVE RACING! Classic Sports Racing Group (CSRG) is hosting the Sears Point Challenge at Sonoma Raceway, October 3-5. Z Car Garage is participating and supporting several client’s Datsun 510 race cars running in B-Sedan Group. This vintage racing event is totally FREE to spectators so please join us! Bring the family, enjoy cool cars and charity rides around the track. Attention DRIVERS: there is still time to register to race! Sign up HERE. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/09/510255373-1272423368226503-5578166857124943186-n_orig.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/IMG_2779.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0067-1-e1665112285742-1024x614.jpg Again, admission is FREE for this event and you will have access to all spectator areas on track, race cars and drivers. You can see our report from the 2024 Charity Challenge HERE Z Car Garage Supports Five Datsun 510s! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/IMG_5585-1024x768.jpg It is our pleasure to bring more enthusiasts into the world of vintage racing. Our services do include full race support and car-preparation to help make client’s race days seamless and worry-free so they can focus on driving. One of our specialties is dyno tuning. Before a race weekend we confirm that your car is running well and make necessary adjustments while on the chassis dyno: #88 Todd Rueppel Todd enjoyed his Z Car Garage trackside support experience with us at the Laps For Laguna event! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0094-1024x768.jpg #7 Kelvin Tse Kelvin and his brother Kenny are regular ZCG trackside support clients… http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/IMG_9853-1024x683.jpeg #64 Kenny Tse http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/D42_7601-1024x682.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/IMG_5796-1024x768.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/IMG_5739-1024x768.jpeg #6 Noah’s Bluebird Coupe #72 Tom Dockery We have helped Tom build and prepare his Ex-Norm Balzer/Koobation 510 for several years. You can view his race report below: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/dockery_Seca2025.jpg #68 and #30 Noah’s 510 and BMW 2002 http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/IMG_1245-1024x700.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/IMG_1242-1-1024x950.jpg #7 Rob Fuller ZCG owner Rob Fuller, Bay Area Datsun Dealers tribute car http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/194911938_10223470558583364_3451851388398014914_n-1024x684.jpg Photo by Jim Rose http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/IMG_7351-683x1024.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_0618.jpeg Vintage Spec Miata http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/VSM-Welcome-1024x831.jpg We will also be supporting Vintage Spec Miata! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/IMG_2834.jpg Join us for the 2025 Vintage Racing Season! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/IMG_5896-1-1024x687.jpeg The Classic Sports Racing Group (CSRG) is excited to welcome Vintage Spec Miata (1990-1997) to all of their events! This is a fun, affordable way to get into vintage racing. If you have any questions regarding prep and presentation, reach out to Rob Fuller: rob@zcargarage.com. Z Car Garage is amped for more racing this year. Please check the CSRG website and zcarblog.com for upcoming race events. View the full article