Jump to content

73str86

Members
  • Content Count

    326
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

73str86 last won the day on August 24 2020

73str86 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

31 Excellent

About 73str86

  • Rank
    Good Vibes

Contact

  • Map Location
    Otterbein, IN
  • Occupation
    Shift Supervisor A

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z

Recent Profile Visitors

3,971 profile views
  1. Wow, I haven't worked on my 240z since October 2020! Sad. I bought another house and will be looking to move before the year is over. I am debating between buying a Summit body dolly/crate to transport the 240z with no suspension/crossmember or just assemble it all and transport. I just bought an 8.5x16 enclosed trailer for the move. Any advice either way?
  2. Yes, cherry blossom is what I was going for lol.
  3. Damn, I haven't worked on my Z since June! I managed to finish sandblasting the crossmember a couple days ago. I need to hurry up and paint it with Master Coat. Starting a new job at the Subaru factory next week so my time will be limited, but looking forward to a work routine and making time for the 240z.
  4. If you're looking to spend some cash on a full kit with Japanese stainless fit and finish, I highly recommend the Fujitsubo twin pipe setup from RHDJapan.
  5. Submit 100 photos to Bring a Trailer. Their reserve suggestion might shock you.
  6. I am replacing the early 4 speed with a 280z 5 speed. The original early 4 speed was definitely sloppier than any Z car manual transmission I've ever driven. I'd highly recommend the bushing upgrade mentioned above, although I've never seen them for sale anywhere.
  7. A 1-1/8 inch hole saw is a perfect fit to ream out the front control arm bushings. All bushings will be replaced with polyurethane with the exception of the tension control rod bushings. Those will be a combination of rubber and the G-Machine kit from MSA.
  8. I agree. At the time of purchase I wasn't too concerned with the rivet holes. Hopefully the body shop can finish my core work successfully.
  9. The flap wheels exposed the history of the car: the rear quarters were all original, no bondo, just the original paint and black respray. Neither front fender was original...they had red and teal paint under the black. Both had bondo but no rust was found. I think the PO (sadly) added bondo to the wheel lips to help the cheap flares fit better.
  10. Next up was filling the rivet holes made by the PO around the wheel wells. There were 27 holes total. I sanded the areas to bare metal with an 80 grit flap wheel. A local mobile welder filled the holes with his tig welder and sanded them smooth. All in all I am happy about my decision to save the wheel wells. I painted the wheel lips with 3 coats of grey primer and 2 coats of Rustoleum satin black. Some paint around the welded areas blistered, but I'm not too worried about that because the car is going to a paint shop this summer for an original color 901 silver respray.
  11. I will keep this matching numbers L24 with 4 screw SUs until (if) I sell the car. Engine stand inspired by the directions on Datsun Spirit's website.
  12. After I pulled the L24 I removed the good working AC components and sold them locally for $100.
  13. The dyno chart is on the previous page. 129 rwhp / 140 rwtq at 6000 ft elevation.
  14. Duffy you've done some great work to this S1 240z! I've been lurking for a while. Nice to see some chronological history of your build instead of just Facebook. - Jeremy Wilbur
  15. Dyno run of the motor in my 73.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.