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  1. On the positive, I'd already lined my Mom up to come stay at my house with my dog. She's miserable helping raise her grandkids and that was something she was looking forward to, she loved the peace and quiet here while I went to Memphis. We've decided not to tell my idiot sister and her son that I'm not going so me and Mom will spend the week together here, cooking together every night! That will be as much fun to me, I'm a "Momma's boy" and happy as can be spending time with her. Life is short but Datsuns last forever.
  2. Upon starting college (1977, Wlikes University, Wilkes-Barre, Pa) my twin brother and I begged our parents for a "vehicle allowance" because he would be going to school 3 hours away in New Jersey and this would be our first "separation". We never thought it would work but it did! After a very long conversation to make sure we understood the value and importance of his gift, our amazingly generous Dad gave me a check for $15,000 to be split between my brother and I in the purchase of 2 new vehicles. This was just one more episode in which Dad showed his love and sacrificed his own perks to benefit one of us kids (and we're 5 boys!). We understood the message and never let him down. I had dreamed of owning a Z for about 3 years and knew that they were very close to 8 grand by 1977, which was more than the $7,500 allotted to me. I kept my desire for a Z secret and started a campaign to convince my brother that the best car for us was a Pontiac Trans Am. He would buy a white one, I would buy one in black. We visited dealers and worked out a deal for $6,700 each, fully loaded, out the door. We would have about $1,000 for "extras" . He fell for it (I still laugh at him for that) and I backed out at the last minute (as planned) and rushed to Fred Schuler's Datsun on King Street in Wilkes-Barre and bought my amazing yellow 280Zap for exactly $8,000 plus $500 for a technologically advanced AM/FM/cassette/CB radio by Clarion that would switch seamlessly between functions during those numerous 3 hour rides from Pennsylvania to New Jersey and back almost every weekend listening to Billy Joel's "The Stranger" and the soundtrack to "Star Wars". Never before or since have I enjoyed or loved a car more. I traded it for a 1980 280ZX once I started medical school but dreamed of driving a Z again for the last 20 years. Literally, I had a recurrent dream of driving my '77 yellow Z around town only to wake up when it would break down and nobody had the knowledge to work on them anymore ! A friggin' nightmare. I decided to hunt down a 1977 280Zap 4 years ago and read every forum I could find (thank you so much). I opted for a final year of S30 production May of '78 280Z in amazing condition and have immensely enjoyed driving and working on it with my 14 year old son who loves it and will eventually inherit it, closing the circle and paying it forward.
  3. #187 is home safely. We'll sort it out this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  4. Installed a 5 speed today. A 280zx close ratio. thanks to my wife for manning the floor jack. Turned the flywheel, new clutch, seals and pilot beating. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  5. Hello everyone. New owner of the #187 here. I don't have to tell you that I haven't received the car, but when I do, I'll go through it and document in detail with pictures so I can pick your collective brains on the best approach to refreshing/restoring this gal. I am a collector, so #187 will be with me for a long time to come. I am not new to owning s30. She will join her 5 siblings: 2 - 1970 Series 1, 1971, and 2-1972. She is a true survivor with some battle scars. However, I've seen worse, much worse.
  6. Not what I did today, but what I'll will be doing tomorrow. Taking HLS30-23305 to Westminster, Co to have my Mikuni's dyno tuned by Jeff Winter, http://rallye-sport.com/. I obtained the Mikuni's from Madkaw this winter and finally got them installed. Now ready to get them tuned by a pro. Looking forward to the drive tomorrow
  7. Hi Jai, I don't know how I missed this thread so I'm sorry I didn't convey my condolences for Deanna's passing. I lost my Chocolate friend a couple of years ago and miss his unconditional love dearly. They bring out the best in most of us and give us everlasting sweet memories that will always be there to enjoy. Dave
  8. Today I took my Z to a gathering here in the Bay Area and put together this short video of the event:
  9. I was 23 when I bought my 1972 Z for a really great price of $4144. It was the most I had ever paid for a car that is now considered a classic. The car was in perfect condition when I got it. I still have the Z today with no plans to ever sell it. I turn 69 this year.. Then . Now Phil Smith
  10. Bruce and Z Therapy don't have them. I'm the manufacturer and sell them on Ebay for $69.95. I had the same issue as many others so I designed this product. The nice thing about them is that you can check fuel levels with the running or not
  11. As promised here's a link to the very few images I took at the event, much smaller turnout by comparison to Donington. https://www.flickr.com/photos/148965131@N05/albums/72157680936590832 Also here's a picture of me and my dad at the event with our pride and joy (weather wasn't the best hence my dad wearing the flying jacket). Castle was very cool. DSC_0577 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
  12. Thanks guys! Working on this car IS my therapy! If I could only get the army to pay for a "companion car" instead of a service dog.... I think my mental health would drastically improve
  13. The turn signal switch in my 240z is actually a "restored" switch I bought in April 2015 from Parsignault Parts on Ebay. It has worked flawlessly up until April of this year when the right side rear would not blink but the circuit would turn off the brake light. So when I was at a stop light with the right turn signal selected, my right front turn signal flashed but the right rear light was dark with only the left brake light on. With ZCON coming in June I wanted to get this taken care of. After some troubleshooting I determined the problem was with the switch, UGH! The switch was not completing the rear turn signal circuit when activated so I carefully opened up the switch and removed the rocker contact, bent the tab up a little, and reinstalled. On the bench it tested fine but once back in the car and a few more cycles were performed, it would stop working. The thin metal of the rocker contact has weakened over time and so I spoke to Dave Irwin about restoring. He said he could do it and should run $70 which sounded very fair. Before I spent any money I wanted to have another go at it. Since the metal was fatigued I figured I would add some metal to the contacts using some rosin flux and solder. Here it is with the first side done on the left. Then I did the other side. Knowing this amount of solder was too much I started filing it down and reinstalling it on the switch base to check it. It took a fair amount of trial and error and I ended up filing off approx. 90% of the solder. I didn't take a picture of the final state of the contact but needless to say it worked and only took about three hours of my time total with all the troubleshooting and work I performed. If your switch is not working properly, take the time to troubleshoot it. All of these switches are between 40 and almost 50 years old and may just need some cleaning or in my case, a little extra metal added back to make them consistently work again.
  14. Just got back from Jai's. Replaced the Voltage Reg and all is well. Voltmeter is steady, the headlights don't pulse and the turn signals came back. I even got her dome light working. I'm not an electrical kind of guy and probably less of a AC guy. That being said, I checked it by hand and her A/C compressor is not locked up. It does not come on when switched. I did check the connections at the switch and compressor and they looked good. Remember, this is an aftermarket unit that was installed last summer by a local guy. My hair did not get caught in anything. On a side note it seems that RockAuto has changed their shipping method. You could really get hammered by the shipping costs when you ordered multiple items and they all came from "different" warehouses". This time it all seemed to come from one place with no A,B,C,D origins with DHL being the initial carrier.
  15. I have a 1972 z that sat in my garage for 25 years. ( I know! Why?) Last year I got it running and driving. The problem I developed with my gauges was that when power was first applied at startup, the fuel gauge would respond then slowly drop back to E. I could not find anything wrong with the sending units. After taking apart the gauges I found that there was a poor connection between the tiny wires that heat up and make the gauges register and the studs that connect to those wires. The easy fix was to clean the contact points between the stud and the tiny wires, then soldered them together. Hope this is helpful anyone with similar problems. I soldered the fuel, oil and temperature connections and they all work perfectly. See picture. Phil Smith
  16. I don't think the rust is awful but there is a lot of work to do. I see this car as comparable to my projects, 26th and 27th. I'm marveling at the bent floors. Wow! I wonder if I could ask the guy on BAT to contact me here? I'm 26th-Z on BAT. This car is being discussed on Bookfaced from Datsun Parts and Needs. Big comments on the value of low VIN cars. I think I'm going to be surprised with the bid on 187th. There's only so much room on the purchase price vs. the restoration costs and value afterwards. I still think I'm on track with escalating values to have two cars worth what I have in them, but we'll see. Either way, a restoration on a car like 187th is going to be big bucks.
  17. Well I got some gas in the tank today and turned the key, I wasn't really expecting the engine to fire up the first time but it would have been nice, she's going to make me work a little more before she gives it up. Something to do with the Megasquirt no doubt, I'll give megasquirt Matt a call and see if he can help me out again. Got the the rear glass in today,all the rubber seals are in now, as well as the leather interior pieces,cleaned and dressed the tires,and installed the Mr.K rear view mirror,
  18. Eiji buttoning up the bottom end of my stroker 3.1.....he really pays attention to detail. Can't wait to dyno this new puppy!
  19. Alright, got the head off tonight. Ended up putting the hoist on it and having my girlfriend stand on the back of the hoist with me. After a few tries it popped off. The bolt that kept spinning I hit with pb blaster and got out with a punch. But the bolt I snapped off in the block I couldn't get out with freeze off and vice grips. Probably gonna have to have someone weld a nut on it. Thanks everyone for the advice!
  20. Brought it home....busy day. Now it's time to put the finishing touches on her and drop it in the green 72.
  21. What are Dads for?.............Can you say BONDING?
  22. At last, both rear panels welded in. Bout time! Did the passenger side this weekend. Pretty much the same process as I did the Drive side, except this time I used a shrinking disc on the Passenger side in some areas to lower the high spots, still has some wavy in it but not as bad as the driver side. I took a crap load of pictures from all angles for you guys to see based on the lighting. Some far and some close shots. The really close shots, you will see how uneven and wavy the welding zone is. I probably can get some more waves out with the shrinking disc and hammer and dolly the welds in some areas, but on a car like this, I am satisfied, not excited, but pleased enough to move on. Just take what I did and learn from it for the next project. I still need to work on my welding, as in laying the weld bead. Still trying to get the welding part figured out. Having gaps in the fitment doesnt help, so getting the fitment right may help me out more. Also I think I am still laying to much filler in the weld, though with good Butt Fitment, I wouldnt need much filler, which goes back to having good fitment from the start. Also on my list to buy are Body Filers to shave down the welds, like block sanding bondo. Starting to think now the angle sanding grinder I have is a no no if I want to achieve the invisible weld/smooth transitions, hehe. Another thing is the base metal seems to cave in on its self at the toe/edge of the weld. I am gonna have to work on how to eliminate that aswell. Its not under cut if thats what your thinking. I may have to play around with the pulser feature on my welder, could be I am spending too much time in the act of welding which means too much heat that is not needed. Also I wish I had done a better job on the profile of the crease. The dies I used were to sharp, needed a little bit of a radius to better match the original crease profile. Enjoy! Well Now its time to get the rear side markers shaved and the gas door shaved. Then get the flares mounted, panels trimmed and inner fender well made. Just never ends... Stay Tuned!
  23. Spent the day with the Edmonton and Calgary Z crew and@zKars Here at the oldest hill climb in North America! Knox Mountain Kelowna BC
  24. Reconditioned Nikki fuel pump for 240Z. Thoroughly cleaned and lightly polished, new oil seal, new diaphragm, all fittings replated. Valves and diaphragm tested for proper operation. $235 shipped within CONUS. Payment via PayPal.
  25. Be sure to get the correct protective clothing for your new mid-life adventure - something like this comes to mind:
  26. That's great Cliff. We are about the same age and both of my parents are gone. Spend time with them while you can!!! I totally understand on being short on cash. That's one reason I couldn't do Toronto...
  27. My 5/72 production car, has 40,000 miles and the original pointed tip antenna, It is the exact same antenna as far as I can tell as my four 1969 production cars and my 1970 Z-L. I don't think there are any differences in original antennas up through 1973 at least.
  28. Yayyy! Site, your idea with the WD-40 worked perfectly on the jammed seat belt. Only took about 2 minutes total, and no grease on the seat belt. I had to go buy a can, and corrected the seat belt in the parking lot. Now the seat belt just zooms out and in. You guys are sooo smart. I am having a ball with RedBird out running flying trucks, that I swear they hit the gas when they see me pulling out! Today one did that trick roaring at me, and I just floored RB. We were to 55 in nothing flat, and he was shrinking back in my dust!!! I'd imagine he never expected that. My sweet RB took it in stride, no changes, no huffing or puffing from her. I had that door to door grin again. Actually, it made my day. Snicker!!! Well that darned AC still is not putting out cool. It never did do a super job. I guess I'll just have to contact Sam who installed it to see what he will do. That is if he has recovered and is still working. He mentioned quitting, the abuse folks do to him has really annoyed him. Some people really try to take advantage when they can. "That's all folks..." Jai
  29. They are asymmetric, as they have to fit to a subtly double curved surface. I have a couple here on my desk and the rear surface (where it meets the body of the car) is slightly curved, and more so in one quarter. The emblems are market 'L' and 'R' on the reverse, with an arrow indicating 'up'. You can't fit an 'L' marked emblem to the 'R' side of the body (and vice versa) without ending up with a gap...
  30. I applied clear film protection on it nonetheless since it's so exposed to rock chips.
  31. well that wasn't so bad.. I messed with the adjuster and then just went around with a hammer and they both freed up very easily. Tons of junk came out. Well now its ready to roll and I can't wait for the dumpster to move so I can get it home.. Thanks again for the help. I will post some pics once I get it cleaned up. I found some paperwork and it looks like the mileage is correct at 74,035. He had it worked on I was told by the local nissan dealer in San Luis obispo and I am hoping they share any service history they might have.
  32. Amazon, Amazon, Amazon - bought the fuse holders from Amazon. You need 10 and they have 10. $6.99. I think 1/2 inch long screws that fit through the holes in the fuse holder, washer and nut on the back side. Take photos of the wiring before removing it from the current holders. I popped out all of the holders while still attached to the wires. I took a Dremel wheel to cut through the plastic just wide enough to fit the fuse holders in place. The screw holes should line up with the holes that were left from the original fuse holders. Once all 10 are in place, then you can start soldering wire for wire to the terminals on the new fuse holder. The battery wire is the hardest to do because it has to connect to 3 of the fuse holders. Easiest way is to strip the wire long enough and tin it with solder before soldering to the 3 fuses. When you install the blade fuses you will still be able to use your fuse box cover. If you have serious melting of your current fuse holder, you will need fix that problem as well. Picture of the front side only and the fuse holders from Amazon. Phil Smith
  33. I agree wholeheartedly. The Alamo is smaller than my detached garage. The River Walk is however spectacular! Restaurants making guacamole table side. You will remember that guacamole your whole life. Alamo? Roughly the size of a two car garage. My shop/garage? 2000sf!
  34. im still waiting on parts interior parts , and the engine is pretty much done, so i figured i may as well get the rest of the body work done. tried finding inner fender seals, not much luck, and $30 each? no thanks. did a little searching and found this at slum depot. $14 for 16 feet of rubber seal i ended up trimming the 90* end off, leaving about 3/4" and the 45* angled part. a bit of weatherstrip adhesive and i have new fender seals for a lot less $$$ fenders are on. still need a little final adjustment, but looking good
  35. I am getting ready to adjust the valves prior to putting the refreshed valve cover on. I did take the time to wash the Z's garage mate the 72 FJ40 (restoration coming to completion).
  36. Wrapped up a small resto effort today on a rescue part with a successful electrical test. New lens on order from S. Nix.
  37. Phil, you can't just leave us hanging! Tell us how you did it, please. I would love to be able to do that changeover with modern fuses. Pics, please. Cheers, Mike
  38. Pictures @kats may like: Rubber Carpet Seat Protector Plastic Knob Original Spare Oct 1969 Date Stamp Seat belt Hook Location Rubber Flooring Material No Bulb Access Clear Hatch Glass
  39. No, but I know them. Now, would you mind taking some time and learning some manners? @Mike @bpilati - Could this thread be merged with the thread below?
  40. finally!! car is running good. got the webers synchronized and it seems that all the jetting is fairly good, but i wont know for sure until i get it out on the road under a load. one sensor for the front 3 cylinders and one for the back 3. this is at idle
  41. My Dad says his wife is a good witch. I say know way, burn her at the stake!
  42. A couple of months ago I found this 10/70 which had been stored away for 10 years. I was able to buy this one and 2 others. A 5/70 and a 1/72. The brown one is one that can be refreshed and put back on the road fairly quickly. Looking forward to driving it soon.
  43. You bought the Australian version...
  44. It was 1991 and I didn't have much money, but there was an ad in the Sacramento paper for a 1976 280Z for $900. Seemed affordable. It had been from Nevada and well sand blasted, the alternator didn't work, and it needed fluids. I drove it home, 120 miles on the battery. The previous owner had engine work done and two months later I swapped the motor with a used engine. That car got me through college and was a daily driver for years until I allowed the head to crack, totally my fault. Sat for another few years as a yard ornament till my daughter needed a car in high school. Seemed like a fun father daughter project. Rebuilt motor, new interior, bushings, suspension, tires, stereo, etc. That became her high school car for a couple years. She went to college and I got my car back to being a daily driver. Good times! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  45. Oh I'm glad you got her rolling. If this happened last week I'd have been there to lend a hand. I just started Dorm renovations at CSUCI last Monday. Unfortunately I'm not available until the 1st of September. I'll be working six days a week 12 plus hrs a day. At least you can get her moved now. If you haven't got her running by the time I'm done with the university then I'll be available to help. But I'll bet she'll be running before then. Sure wish I could be there now.
  46. Well, the carb tune is done and I'm back home. The engine is an L24 bored .40 over, a Schneider 270/280 (MSA stage 3), MSA header, 2 1/2" exhaust with turbo muffler and twin baffle tips. The Mikunis are 40mm with short ram horns, and K&N air filters. Altitude was about 5400ft (about the same as here at home). Here's the results of the dyno tune: Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  47. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/406009-fuel-percolation-3-screws-su-carbs-bowls.html Quote: Originally Posted by princejqman In addition to the stock heat shield which was installed in the car by the Factory originally, i have mounted a Stainless Steel heat shield extension that reaches the bottom of both 3 screws SU Carburetor float bowls. However, the fuel percolation is still present. The gasoline in my country, Panama, has no ethanol so this should not be happening. The heat comes directly from the manifold and thus there must be away of lowering that amount of heat so it does not affect the fuel that is inside the float valves and that will evaporize and consequently shut the engine down. Other owners only throw out ideas such as swapping metal fuel rail with 5 inch rubber hoses or driving with the lid off? Is this really going to help and avoid the car idle becoming lumpy at traffic jams which leads to a sudden shut down of the engine? Wouldnt it be better to find a way to lower the temperature at the stock manifold? How about ceramic coating the stock manifold? It's been fun but I'm done. You have graduated to my Ignore List.
  48. Opened a parcel iv been waiting for to arrive. Another 2 knobb clock : )