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  1. Got a rendering of my favorite Z car....
  2. Hi, I found some photos of my original Z, 1971, Redwing. When I got her from the dealer, she had 7 miles on the odometer. I was scared to death to driver her home after dark, I had never driven anything with any power. I'd had a VW bus! And the radio was playing the song "D.O.A". Anyone remember it? That was scary in itself. Needless to say, I got over that quickly, with my beautiful car. The color one was before we left, of her sitting right by the front to door, grinning in delight, anticipating the trip. And the black & white photos were when we (my son & myself) were camping. And yes, I packed all our camping equipment in her deck. I drove to Mt. Washington in N.H., where we climbed the mountain, the highest peak in the eastern U.S., 6,288 feet. Amazing trip travelling on the Blue Ridge Parkway for a lot of the trip, with all those curves! Oh yes, I zoomed her all the way. Wheee... Thought you all might get a kick out of seeing these. Jai
  3. So another project during this off season was to do something better with my brake booster. I took both the newly purchased "rebuilt" unit, and my old failed original boosters apart and reassembled one unit using the best parts from the two, plus a couple new parts I made to replace some rusty bits. Here's the final unit. Reassembled, painted, and ready to put back in the car: Some of the internal parts were really crappy, so I made some stainless replacements. I used stainless steel for everything with the exception of the threaded output shaft tip. I reused the original tip because it's hardened and I didn't feel like dealing with the heat treating. Besides, it doesn't ride against the vacuum seal, so even if it's not perfect, it doesn't affect operation. Here's what I made: Here's a pic of the smooth stainless output shaft sticking through the vacuum seal. This has GOT to seal better than the rusty crusty versions I had from both the boosters. My idle will thank me: As a bonus... My PO had painted the booster that came with the car, and I found the original sticker hiding under a thick coat of paint. Thankfully the paint didn't stick too well to the plastic sticker, and I was able to chip most of it off. It's not perfect, but it looks "appropriate" for the rest of the car. I haven't put it back on yet. Anyone have a good reference pic showing the location of where the sticker should go?
  4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Electronic-Fuel-Injection-Analyzer-Kent-Moore-J-25400-/272599728744?hash=item3f7835c268:g:rhAAAOSwuxFY0b8l Maybe we should group buy it for him? And another interesting piece of kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-1979-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Transistor-Ignition-Tester-Kent-Moore-J-26350-/272599730588?hash=item3f7835c99c:g:oHYAAOSwol5Y0b~R
  5. I work with modern fibre optic submarine cables and enjoy researching the early telegraph cables (as much as I enjoy Z's... so those who know me understand the extent ). I was recently perusing historical Nissan publications and came across this 1962 document: The footer contains an interesting reference: Cable Address "NISMO" Tokyo. NISMO was the shortened address (International Identifier for the Telegraph Office) used by NISsan MOtor corporation to receive telegraphs. The short form allowed for the sender to use fewer characters in the telegraph/teletype message to reduce costs. If you research the telegraph messaging techniques, compressing words and acronyms were from well formed and standardized methods used long before the similar ad hoc usage in texting. "Cable" comes from Submarine Telegraph Cable which was used to describe the messaging system used for ~100 years prior to 1962 for international telecommunications. In 1962 International telephone calls were quite rare. The first telephone cable across the Pacific was COMPAC in 1963 that could only carry 80 calls simultaneously. So NISMO was first used in Telecoms before Motorsports. Now you know the complete story
  6. I was forced to drive my Z around today by this miscreant (@Captain Obvious). He demanded that I take him to the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame/Dawsonville City Hall. (Fortunately it's the same building.) We look homeless in this photo, don't we?
  7. I had the winning bid. This is my first Z car. After looking for a couple of years, I figured I'd better jump in before I couldn't afford it anymore. I'm excited to get it home and get it ready for summer if this damn rain will ever stop!
  8. The need to extract my rear strut inserts had me facing the same challenge as many other owners needing to replace the struts on their classic Z, removing the dreaded gland nuts. More often than not they are seized on due to years of use. Worse, it seems to be the best method for getting them off by using two opposing pipe wrenches can also be the most damaging. I went through this same exercise with my 1972 lime green 240z several years ago and vowed this time would be different. I remember seeing an workshop manual showing how these were installed at the factory using a special made socket and wrench. I searched for a long time to find an 8-point socket of any kind that was 51mm or 2 inches in diameter. I was hoping to find an axle socket but after many days and nights of Googling and searching I came up empty handed. So I purchased a 12 point 2" socket made by Stanley on eBay for $21.50 shipped. I verified it fit as I could easily push down on the strut piston. The 3/4" drive opening was already close to being big enough. After about 30 minutes of enlarging the hole using my "worth its weight in gold" Makita rotary tool, it would now slip over the piston. Next was to grind some flats on the socket so I could use a pipe wrench to turn it. Threw it on and with one good turn, the glad nut was loose! Once I off I verified there was no damage to the strut tube or the gland nut itself. You can see in the last picture with the gland nut in the socket that the corners are not exactly aligned in to the socket. I am a little lucky as the entire suspension on my car was rebuilt in the past few years. Why the strut insert has already failed on stock springs is another story. If your gland nut is really stuck there is a decent chance the socket would slip. Going down one size may help with this. Anyway, that was my solution, it worked, and thought I would share.
  9. Haha!! Thanks guys! Those are beautiful, but I've already started building my own using stone knives and bearskins. Now about the president part... I'm up for that!
  10. Hi my friends, A catch up on Redbird and her new clutch. What a difference in her performance, oh the ZOOM she has now! I had no idea her driving was so not right. Since the clutch she tries to jump out from underneath me. Ha! The trick with the alcohol in the gas seems to have cleared out those bugger gremlins that were making her stall out. Nothing but good smooth running now. Should have figured that out immediately. Hopefully my avoiding that gas station will cause that to not happen again. When I picked her up, I managed to leave the shop without stalling her out. That was good, I did not want to look bad in front of Pete. Lost it tho at the first stoplight. The remainder of the trip home went well. Today as I drove to church, I didn't even think of it and muscle memory took over the job for a beautiful drive. At church, I was telling a friend about how this group jumped in and gifted me with $ for the clutch, and that the total was only $30 under the cost of the labor. At that point, he got out his wallet and handed me $30, and said "now your labor charges are all paid for." How amazing that was, I had no idea he would do that, what a sweet man. So... the total of the installation of the clutch was $335, and with what you all sent plus Jim's gift at church, I have received the full amount I owed Pete. I have been sending the $ to him via PayPal. Easier than driving over there, costs less gas too. Now all I have to do is to finish out the month, with the $99 I spent for the parts, missing from the purse. It is difficult to manage, but we (Deanna, RedBird, and myself) will make it. Cuts out the goodies for the month. Not gonna worry about that tho. I have a wonderful ZOOM, in fine shape to drive! Hahaha... I typed a "Z" back in that last sentence, and the auto correct changed it to ZOOM. I like that better, so will leave it. Have a great afternoon all, blessings for each of you. You are the BEST, Jai
  11. Even the rust was from the factory...
  12. Hoarding parts........not a problem......hoarding Z's.....you need expensive therapy.
  13. You call that hoarding?
  14. I thought this was pretty funny. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  15. I put new wheel cylinders and shoes on the orange 72......she blew a driver side cylinder a couple weeks ago.....cheap Datsun parts....only lasted 45 years!
  16. Probably too late but cheap walmart oven cleaner spray foam works great on those, inside and out.
  17. Put in some work on my rally clock. Excited to soon be able to install it.
  18. My white 70 was rescued after being given up for dead in the Arizona desert!
  19. He really liked that place...
  20. Leave it. Cars are always worth the most in original preservation condition. A few decades back, I had an auto trans 280Z and it was much faster on an autocross course than my 4 speed. If this is truly an unmolested car and you want a manual transmission, flip it and move on. Now if the car had been all modified? Rock on. About 20 years back I had an Abarth exhaust I had purchased and put on a Z I had. When I sold it, the guy asked for the original exhaust so I switched it out for him. I then put it up for sale. As it happened, the guy that responded lived 2 miles from my house. I told him I'd help install it just to get to know another local Z guy. When I got to his house and he opened the garage, I saw a pristine '70 240Z. I checked the VIN and it was a first 50 car. I told the guy, I'm sorry, I can't sell you this exhaust. He looked a little shocked until I told him what he had. His wife had purchased it new and driven it until she got sick and passed. It was something like 130K miles and preservation condition. We took it up to Midas and they welded a little patch over the tiny hole in his muffler that was making noise. I was deployed when he sold it, Or it would be shined up and covered in my garage right now. So, general rule is, modify the modified and preserve the preserved. Nissan isn't making any more of them!
  21. I now have New Rally Clock Oscillator box by Zclocks. This photo is the first one out and currently taking orders., It's a plug and play if you have your own circuit board or I can supply a complete working oscillator . Contact me at :ron@ zclocks.com for pricing and info.
  22. Those BWT-5's can cause an chirping noises in the rear though Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  23. Since it has been re-listed I will add my thoughts and suggestions. 1. You need to add the all of the pictures from under the car to the auction. We know someone can always ask for them but being more upfront from the beginning drives buyer confidence and lowers your inbox count. 2. Lower your starting bid to something like $5,000 and let the bidders bid. Add a reserve back if you like but the market spoke once at $26,100 but that was without the chassis pictures. You should have dropped your reserve to meet it because that is a very strong number and after people see the chassis pics, you won't see it again. 3. I think the value of the car as it is shown and taking in to account the pictures of underneath is around $12K - $18K. I know that is far from the other numbers you hoped for and someone overseas or in the rust belt might pay more but as it has already been said, this is a '73, not the more desirable '70-'72. 4. The suspension has not received any attention in a long time and therefore does not command a $20K+ price. The repair work underneath was not done to a high standard. People will value this in different ways. Some will care less that the floors are flat and the rails are not closer to stock, they will just be happy that someone else replaced them. It will be a deal breaker for others. 5. The color is less than desirable. If it was a more popular color it would bring a few to several thousand more as long it was done to the same quality. Finally, I do not mean to knock the car in any way because it is very nice in it's own right. From what I understand Mike was very proud of it and rightfully so, it is very pretty. At the end of the day it comes down to who wants the most and what they are willing to pay. In the end, I hope you get a number that you, the family, and the buyer are happy with.
  24. You've come a long way baby!
  25. I'm probably the youngest one on this to be restoring a Z at 20yrs old. It has been my dream to own one. Nonetheless i am humbled to be around people who know so much. I will continue with updates on her restoration but i will also ask for help for i don't know everything. Thanks [emoji1591] Space_cowboy '74 260z
  26. Yeah.....We've got oil coming out of the woodwork! Time to get rid of alcohol in gasoline.....get rid of 2% a year for 5 years.....then gone. That would give farmers a chance to adjust! .......out of here!!!!!!
  27. Just wanted to bring this thread to a successful close. Finally had a chance to go on a test drive and yes it was the tires. Perfect clearance with both small tires up front and it did appear the back wheel hub was thicker than the front making the problem worse. I am located just outside of Austin in the Lakeway area. I cannot thank everyone enough for helping, this blog is the best, just goes to show good people drive Z's. I am reliving my youth, as I am sure many of you are as well, it was the car I drove in my 20's but rust and milage caught up with my first one when I did not have the money to repair. Here is my new one that I am going to slowly bring back to its original, if not better, state. Here's to hoping all your future repairs and restorations are successful. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  28. Hello all, Good news! I picked up my sweet RedBird today from Pete. Oh boy, there is a super difference in driving now. Talk about Zoom! I can tell how really bad the old clutch was by the feel and the driving zoomies happening now. I had no idea how bad off she was. Watch out world... we are released from the bad, and looking forward to going on delightful drives. It is almost like I am driving her by using thoughts only, that she understands and responds. Pete did send the flywheel out, said it needed it badly. I suggested getting a rear main seal. He asked if I wanted it replaced and I told him you all advised it while he was in there. His comment today was that "it was a good idea, it was going to need it soon if not done today". The bearings came apart when he was taking them out and he did reuse the steel Nissan collar as Chickenman suggested. I talked to him about the transmission gear oil, and he agreed with what I had been told previously. That not to mess with it unless needed, too many chances of something else going wrong because of changing on these old cars. So we left that alone. I had prepared a list of the things all you mentioned, and we talked about each entry. I told him it was because you all look after me that you suggested those things. He smiled. So we came home very uneventfully. Very easy driving, and no shutting down by her. I'm thinking that it probably was water in the tank, as Gwri8 said. I did put the alcohol in, and she is driving well. I guess time will tell. I now have driven her with the new spark plugs, for about 35 miles. I will get them pulled off this weekend, and photoed to share with you so we can see their condition. That will tell us more about her shutting off. Pete, bless his good heart, did not even have me sign a contract for payments. I only had the $ that my friends on CZCC sent me, to give Pete today. After buying the parts, I was out of available $. Thank God I had your gifts. Pete says that "rich people have a way of not paying", and that "folks on Social Security pay on time, and complete their payments". So he said he is not going to worry about me. What a really nice person to find in this world! Thank you Gwri8, (he sent me to Pete). I figure if Pete is good enough to work on Gwri8's car, then he will be the best one for my RedBird also. Well, thanking you for your suggestions and donations, I'm heading for bed. It has been an exciting day, thanks to you. Jai
  29. The dash pot might need adjustment. It has what looks like a game piece or vacuum fitting on the top. Screw it in toward the throttle linkage to slow down the action. When my engine was running rich I found that the idle speed would drop lower when the the pedal was lifted. Sounds more like a minor tuning problem than a loss of coil power. You can use the dashpot adjustment to bandaid it while you fine-tune the rest. Also, advancing the timing caused my idle sped to drop more on throttle lift. Lots of little things can add up. Good that you're in to the small details now though. Check the roll pins in the shift fork if you get it that far apart. Also the wear pads on the shift fork. And the coupling sleeve. And the bearing, and the nut on the end of the shaft. Check the drain plug magnet for metal "clues" and the fluid for plastic or brass clues.
  30. I like beer, and people who show up with beer.
  31. I'll definitely be going this year. Lots of work to do to get it ready to make that trip, but will hopefully driving a Z. The current state of affairs...
  32. Jai I mow a few yards around here for nice people that need a little help now and again, never ask for money. Sometimes I'll get a big ole plate wrapped in foil sitting in the bed of my truck of food like Mom cooks. Sometimes just a honest Thank You and a smile like you described, "door to door". I don't have much income either but a lot of "come on in" around here. Nothing better than having good friendly neighbors. If the police tried to get me they'd have to arrest the whole neighborhood. It'll workout for you and Pete. Try and not worry too much, good things happen to good people.
  33. No thanks on the name. I may be mature (I don't use the "O" word), and my body failing some, but darn it I don't feel like a Grandma. My mind is stuck somewhere in the '70's. I like it !
  34. Dear JSM... My oh my, you guys assume that Z cars should only be owned by MEN. Not so in this case. I am a 74 you old, waiting by the phone right now for my first great grand child to be born, LADY who has had Z's all my life. Well 2 that is. My first, a 1971 240Z- Redwing took me 259,000 miles. Did you know that is almost exactly the distance to the Moon? Yes I drove to N.H., and climbed that mountain, with my son alone. No one else. I asked on the CB if I could follow a certain semi thru NYC, he said "sure if you think you can keep up". When we got thru NYC, with me still tailing him, he said "lady you are a bodacious driver!" I thanked him saying "I always wanted to be a racecar driver". His was one of the finest compliments I've ever had, made my day. Ha! And, we wore seat belts from the first moment, driving her home after my purchasing her! Sooo, now you have the straight poop.... Should I sign it Rock'in Grandma Jai ???
  35. Nice to meet you Chip. Wives are a dime a dozen, Zs not so easy to find. Cool pictures.
  36. At the DMV today
  37. I've been buying S30's and scrapping rotten S30's for the last 35 years. I still find uses for some of the first parts I ever removed back in the mid-80's. When I was young and started hording Z parts, I stored them in my dad's basement and garage. When I entered the workforce, I moved out of state and started a new collection of parts. A few years ago, my dad sold his house and moved to Phoenix, so it was time to gather my parts and bring them back to Michigan. It took a full 24 foot enclosed car trailer to get everything home. Needless to say, my garage is rather full now. My current plan is to sell cheap or give away parts I don't think I will ever need to local Z owners in need. If I can keep another Z on the road and reduce my clutter at the same time, I'm happy.
  38. I always respect and admire all of you , owners in overseas. We do not have much space to store cars , parts here in Japan. I want my wife to see this thread, I am not even nuts. I may go forward ! Kats
  39. A while ago, I was looking into an issue where my idle would hang a little because the throttle body butterfly would not always return to fully closed. The puzzling part is that it always closed just fine with the engine off and it only got sticky when manifold vacuum was present with the engine running. Reference old thread about it, but that old thread never really got to the bottom of it: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45152-sticky-throttle-body-hanging-idle/#comment-409180 My solution at the time was to simply add an extra turn to the throttle body return spring and that extra spring force overcame whatever was causing the stick. Worked, but not really the right way to fix it and I always wanted something better. So this off-season, I pulled the throttle body off again to do some more investigation. I believe I have traced the sticking issue to worn through chrome plating on the throttle shaft exposing the softer steel beneath, and that softer steel doesn't slide as well against the pressed in bushings pressed of the throttle body. Even though everything seems to move just fine with the engine off, I believe the friction between the worn shaft and the bushings is amplified when the two of them are forced together by manifold vacuum causing the hanging idle. After considering several different approaches to fixing the issye, I decided to try replacing the original steel throttle body bushings with Delrin. The thinking was that Delrin is a naturally slippery material and the hope is that it won't stick to the exposed steel of the shaft. Also, while I was in there, something else I wanted to improve is that with the original design - The only thing locating the throttle butterfly plate within the throttle body bore is the butterfly plate itself (just like the carbs). In other words, when the throttle is closed, the butterfly plate should self center within the throat because the walls of the throttle body bore will contact the brass butterfly and move it into the center. But when the butterfly is opened, the plate is free to move back and forth a little within the bore. This results in scraping against the internal walls and wear on the walls and butterfly. I was thinking that I might be able to come up with a way to incorporate shaft locating into a new bushing design. So with all that as background... I started with this: I ran a tap into the original bushings and pulled them out: Here's the original steel bushing and the new Delrin bushing for the side where the throttle linkage attaches. The larger diameter lip section keeps the throttle butterfly from moving too far in one direction: Here's the linkage side in place. You can see how the lip is sandwiched between the linkage and the body casting to take up the side-to-side slop and acting as a thrust washer in the inward direction. The other end will address the play from the TPS direction, but this is half the battle won: And here's the concept I came up with for the TPS side. I turned a groove on the throttle shaft to accept a spring clip, and made a stainless steel "D" holed thrust washer to run against the outside of the bushing. These features are what prevent the throttle shaft from moving in from this direction. With the combination of the two limiting features, the throttle plate is now locked centered in the middle of the throttle body throat bore. This side was more of a PITA because there is very little room to work with since everything has to be hidden behind the TPS: This is what the TPS side looks like when installed. Spring clip limits motion in the inward direction: Here's the two new bushings on the throttle shaft to show how they work: A little epoxy to keep the bushings from spinning in the throttle body casting (that's what the grooves are for). Not much sticks to Delrin (including epoxy), but it doesn't need to stick well. Just enough to make sure the shaft spins withing the bushing instead of the bushing spinning within the body: And a little blue thread lock on the butterfly screws: It's all put back together and back on the car and I'll post the final results after the salt is off the roads!
  40. Rough cut for the shock towers. Looks good and the strut brace I add later will reinforce from the top too.
  41. Well, she's home. I'll head to the DMV first thing in the morning to try and get the registration all taken care of. It was a long day of driving back and forth, but worth it. The car is a really solid, honest car. The seller had the undercarriage steam cleaned which is why it photographed so well. The paint looks to have been polished some, but I don't see any spots where they burned through. It is definitely a time capsule, and will need some cleanup. Seller didn't have both plates on hand, said he'd find the other one and mail it to me. No service history, but i guess you can't have everything. Turn signal switch not working, not sure if the DMV will test them or not. I've already found a rare restoration part that I'm hoping to go pick up tomorrow which I'll share once I've secured it. I guess the protocol would probably be to start a new thread over in the S30 section about build progress.
  42. Finally finished the welding today So glad, feels like I have been welding all winter. P/S rail was pretty banged up so had to do some surgery to get it to fit inside the Baddog rail, I'm sure after I look at it for a while I will pull the welder back out and start filling in and fine tunning but for now have to clean the shop and get ready for primer prep.
  43. Another thought is to cut the pins down all together and replace with threaded metal studs. This way you could use a lock washer and nut to hold them on. I did something similar to this with my Datsun script emblem. See link below. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49682-diy-datsun-script-emblem-repair-refurbishment/
  44. You're right. That oil filter needs new paint. Good luck!
  45. Booked my hotel at the Austin Airport Hilton for 20-24th Zedyone will be there! Just curious, do we have to pay to park their nightly? Self parking is 10/day per the website...You would think that would be waved since we are mass booking for a car show.
  46. You've got a bit of work ahead of you. I've seen rust on fenders, rockers, doors, radiators, control arms, etc. but this is the first time I've seen rust on an oil filter. This tells us two things: 1. The oil filter seal is OK 2. We'd all like to see photos of the engine once you get it disassembled.
  47. I've never tried that. It's possible that a short case would break the ice. Might be best to find out what he drinks on the first trip and leverage your way in with beer (or whatever) on the second trip. Beware of establishing a precedent. As long as you keep coming back, he's getting free beer.
  48. You'd be better off using the choke lever mounts that Art Singer sales on ebay, $30-$40? They screw down on the transmission tunnel in front of the ashtray hole not the plastic console like the OE one in your 2nd picture. That's one of the best aftermarket Z parts out there in my opinion.
  49. Today I took my 240ZG for a couple of ours to enjoy windings near my house . At near the end of the driving , the shift lever did not want to engage , I found the clutch operating cylinder had a leak. I need to replace 11/16 adjustable cylinder. Kats