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  1. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Had a nice sunny day today, so I backed the car out for a couple pics.
  2. DATSUN LLC Rebuilt Engine Opinion

    And so begins a new adventure, guaranteed to frustrate yet entertain over the next few years...
  3. [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    I think ZH meant that it's the 'same as it ever was'... Gents, we have to be a bit more friendly and choose our words carefully these days -- especially to new members. The Internet isn't the same as it ever was. Clubs like ours are fading out in comparison to the big social media sites. I'd like to know that our club is known for permanent content and a group of people that wants to help. The written word is a powerful thing, and the conversation that follows it can define who we are.
  4. My Z about a week old. I recently purchased a complete set of used gauges. My gauges, actually my oil & temp gauge was fluctuating after I thought I had solved the problem. So I removed my 46 year old gauge and installed a 46 year old gauge. Much to my surprise upon trying the oil & temp gauge, it worked perfectly. Then I tried hooking up the clock. It didn’t work. Because I have a functioning clock that I built I had nothing to loose and opened it up. I hooked a 9 volt battery to it and watched as the motor tried to wind the spring but it seemed weak. I tried it on 12v from the car. It acted the same. I removed the motor (simple to do) then carefully wound the gear the motor was supposed to wind. It started ticking, a good sign. Decided to spray the clock gears with 3n1 penetrating spray to get gunk off of the gears. Tried the motor again with the same results. Decided to take the brush assembly out of the motor. I didn’t see anything wacky but wondered if the motor was just tired. When the motor was operating outside of the clock, it ran well. Looking at the brushes and armature I could see there wasn’t noticeable wear. Thinking through how electricity works best, I took the brushes out and bent them closer together. Inserted the brush assembly back together and ran the motor. It seemed stronger. I attached the motor back into place. Using the 9v battery the motor was able to wind the main spring. That’s when the magic happened. Tick tick tick, a working original clock. I would have made a video of the motor repair but I would have had to bleep every other word. If anyone wants to tackle this motor fix I can help you do it bleep free. I am not guaranteeing your clock will work but it might. 1972 clock probably built early 1971. Phil Smith
  5. Antenna Rebuild / Restore

    I have the antenna drain tube and 240z grommet for the lower fender well... Somethings I don't advertise for sale.
  6. [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    Oy. How bout them E-A-G-L-E-S!!!!! Captain Out.
  7. [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    Hey guys, I just reviewed this thread because it was reported to me. There were a few violations of the rules, but, most of it was on topic. One thing I ask is that you please try to be civil with each other as if you were standing in the same room. I am not going to go through and give violations this evening because I think you can figure out how and when you can be good to each other. The main objective of our club is to help others and collect information for the car. Debates can sometimes get heated, so I trust that you guys can keep it civil. We can only survive this modern world of media websites if we do these things.. We need people and a welcoming environment for all.. Thanks guys. Mike
  8. Oh, that´s greate i think, i will buy them. Thank you for the info. Perfect Uli from Germany
  9. Antenna Rebuild / Restore

    So ---- to remove the fingers from the nut--- Our old friend Mr. Heat, visegrips to hold the nut and needle nose pliers to remove the "fingers". The small screwdriver is to clean the groove in the nut of the torched plastic that remains once the "fingers" have been extracted. Heat the nut until the plastic starts bubbling and give the "fingers" a tug with the small pliers--it will come right out. Stringy bits of melted plastic too. Hold the "fingers" in the flame again and it will burn off all the remaining plastic. Repeatedly heat the nut and scrape away the molten plastic from the groove until it is all removed. Squeeze out a gob of black weather strip cement. Using your small screwdriver or a toothpick, twirl up the cement and apply it to the groove. Place the "fingers" on the end of your pinky and insert it into the plastic cone. Check to make sure that it is centered and carefully place the nut over and apply light pressure as you confirm that the fingers and the cone are fitting into the groove without being off center or deformed. This might take a stab or two to get right--- but no worries--just back up and go through the steps again without applying any more cement. It will still be sticky enough to seal the cone. Finished assembly---not as beautiful as Jerry's truly restored pieces, but it is what I had on hand to demonstrate Many Thanks! to Steve Nixon for the opportunity to do this His rubber bits will help restore your antenna to a long life of operation and pleasing appearance.
  10. Antenna Rebuild / Restore

    Hi, I wrote a message to HARADA Ltd customers relationship, about a request of the antenna mast replacement. I do not know they will reply , I am waiting hearing from them. Kats
  11. [2018] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?

    Getting ready Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Hmmmm, need to install those two bolts on the lower bell housing. Pics are always good for stuff like that. Also need to add the black paint to the muffler tip. Will take care of that tomorrow. Here are the latest motor pics. Got the final decals on and voltage regulator cover.
  13. Sold on LEDs

    I’ve read all the threads on LED lights for the interior, and here’s what I ended up doing. I got a bunch of different LEDs and tested them out with the clock. To keep it simple so I did not remove the green domes, or alter the inside of the gauges in any way. I set up the camera on a tripod and used an 8AA battery pack to power the light bulbs. I shot in RAW, the color temp is 5000K. I used the same exposure values for every shot. Here’s a picture of all the bulbs I ended up testing. Bulb 1 This picture is the bulb that was in the clock. Regular stock tungsten filament bulb. It might even be original. It’s pretty dim. The surprising thing is how hot the base of the bulb got when powered up for a short time. Bulb 2 The second picture shows a bulb from superbrightleds.com. Cool 7000K 120° 4 Lumens. BA9s https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-car/3/ It’s noticeably brighter than the stock bulb. Bulb 3 The third picture shows a bulb from superbrightleds.com. Cool 5500K 270° 40 Lumens. BA9s https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-car/958/2359/ I shaved the plastic end down with a Dremel so the bulb would fit inside the green dome. Looks pretty good. Bulb 4 The fourth picture shows a bulb from superbrightleds.com. Green 40 Lumens. BA9s https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-ba9s-retrofit-car/2077/ This bulb did not fit inside the green plastic dome. To take the picture I taped it in place with as much of the bulb in the dome as possible. The color was too green for my taste. Bulb 5 The fifth picture shows a bulb from superbrightleds.com. Cool 6100K 96 Lumens. BA9s https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-ba9s-retrofit-car/2077/#/attributes/10855 This bulb is the same as the previous bulb, but cool white instead of green. To take the picture I taped it in place with as much of the bulb in the dome as possible. Bulb 6 The sixth picture shows a bulb from amazon.com White. BA9s https://www.amazon.com/64111-3-7020-Lights-Extremely-Bright/dp/B01MEFGAAI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505518231&sr=8-3&keywords=ba9s+LED This bulb came in a four pack. I decided to try this bulb since it was cheap. It’s nice and bright. Close to the same brightness as the 96 Lumen white bulb from superbrightleds.com. It surprised me how evenly this style of bulb illuminated the clock. I like this one the best so far. Bulb 7 The seventh picture shows a bulb from amazon.com White. BA9s https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQOXU74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This bulb came in a 10 pack. It is bright but not as bright as the bulb in the sixth picture. Bulb 6 in the speedometer Overall I went with bulb number six. Here’s a picture of my speedometer with that bulb. It lights up nice and bright. Here’s a picture of the clock powered up and resting on the dash of my jeep. Overall it’s about the same brightness feel to the jeep gauges on full brightness setting. The dimmer in my 280z did not dim the LED bulbs at all. It’s either full brightness or off. I also put LED bulbs in the turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, and brake warning light in the gauges. I tried a couple different bulbs but forgot to take pictures. I don’t have everything put back together yet, but when I do I’ll update with a pic of all the gauges lit up in the car.
  14. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Well, things are getting close to the end here. Still waiting on a few parts to come in and the revised center section of the exhaust to be completed then she will be about ready to go. Miguel came over today and did the final polish on the paint which actually looked pretty amazing before he even started. After about 6 hours of polishing with three different compounds and pads, the paint is absolutely incredible. Not a single scratch or swirl to be seen. There are a couple pics below, but they do not do the paint justice. I will have to wait for a nice sunny day and take some pics here to really show the quality of the paint job. While Miguel was doing the polishing, I painted the rear carpet which really looks great. I was a little skeptical of how it would look, but it really looks like new carpet. I should get the new luggage straps in from Jay in the next couple days to complete the back hatch area. It should look great once these are in. Also got the hatch plugs coming in as well. Got the horns refurbed and installed. Also put in the final fender screws and touched those up with paint to match.
  15. Looking for a picture of the original factory installed 240z inner door plastic vapor barrier. I have been so busy the last 3 years with www.240zrubberparts.com helping out other owners with their projects, my project has been stalled out. I started working on getting the doors back together today. Everything has been replated and installed new window rollers and cups.
  16. 1972 Float Adjustment ...

    Turn that assembly upside down and get in front of a mirror. Hold the float with your other hand. Blow into the fuel supply hose barb. When your breathe starts passing through look into the mirror and see where the float is. Bend the tab until the float' roof is parallel with the lid's roof. You will be close. Find something .55" thick and use it between the float and the lid while still using your breathe as fuel to get the float .055" lower than the lid. I can't be any clearer, that's as simple as I can get without puppets. You cannot set the float level upside down with the weight of the float against the pin. The newer style valves are very sensitive and will not resist the float's weight at all, period, done.
  17. Antenna Rebuild / Restore

    Beautiful work Jerry! I'm sure the owner will be very happy with your efforts and you should be proud of your workmanship. Steve's contribution with the needed rubber parts is invaluable. Now--- if we could just find a supplier to reproduce the antenna masts! First, I called Harada of America and spoke with a company representative about "re-producing" the masts. He knew of the antennas (an image of one is on their website) and allowed as how the company is still quite proud of them historically, as they were among the first retractable units. http://www.harada.com/en/innovation/history/1960.html#inner_contents He explained that a "reproduction" did not fit Harada's business model. A polite, but very firm "No." Then I sent a PM to Kats requesting he contact Harada in Japan---which he did and he posted the result. Another dead end. Contact with the right small Asian manufacturer of these telescoping tube mast assemblies could result in a reproduction that is exact and affordable.
  18. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Got the new antenna parts in. The originals were cracked and oxidized so picked up the new parts from http://www.240zrubberparts.com/. Pics below show the old antenna parts and then one with the new parts.
  19. N27 needle equivalent?

    I have dealt with Z therapy more than once and their service and products are outstanding!!!!! Maybe it's operator error?
  20. My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread

    I know it might not be an option for you, but I bought ACDelco part number 45G25036 from Rock Auto. That kit contains everything you need for one side. Two rubber bushings and all the metal pieces. Comes with metal tube, two large washers, two small washers, and a nut. Looks like this: But since you already have all the metal hardware, you would only need one kit. Use one of the rubber bushings on each side. Poly on the front, and rubber on the back. Looks like this: The rubber bushings have a wide side and a narrow side. The narrow side goes towards the frame of the car. It's hard to see the difference once everything is all smashed in place with the nut, but you can see the difference before it's assembled onto the car. The orientation of the bushings should look like this:
  21. Gas evaporating from Carburator

    Oh, and the obvious fix to your problem is... Drive your Z more often!!
  22. Water pump comparison

    Never thought about the open back of the impellers on the stamped blade. It is like a water wheel. It probably does push less coolant but might not be a factor for a typical street car. It would be neat to set two up pushing water against each and see which one wins. Those cast impellers are so purty though. I'm surprised people don't polish or chrome them before installation. Transparent plastic housing with a polished impeller inside. A few LEDS... Nice.
  23. Can I buy internals for a high/low beam switch?

    Yep. Shipped them out yesterday and you'll have them on Monday. Your headlight dimmer switch was completely missing from the previous owner cutting it out. When you send the loaners back, I'll be posting them up for sale. Probably $350 for the rebuilt pair with free shipping. Please let me/us know how it goes and your impressions on the switches and service. It's been great dealing with you Mr. Grubb... Dave
  24. Antenna Rebuild / Restore

    The Brass "fingers" must be installed in the finisher nut for a proper fit. There must be zero left over plastic from the old top in the finisher nut or on the brass "fingers". The lower lip on the new top is paper thin but it must be like this for the correct fit.
  25. Antenna Rebuild / Restore

    Rubber bits from Steve Nixon for the antenna restoration arrived today! Here they are shown with the finisher nut I am using as a test. Left top is the finisher nut cone---beneath is the demo'ed finisher nut and the nut lower seal. To the right is the upper "plastic" ball, the mast assembly to body seal and, finally the inside quarter panel lower rubber ball. The parts are very accurately produced---another testament to Steve's skills! This photo shows the parts in assembled order. You will notice there is a gap between the shoulder of the cone and the upper surface of the finisher nut. More on that this weekend, as we try to complete an installation process for a proper fit. Stay tuned.......
  26. Antenna Rebuild / Restore

    Hi Kats, This is a picture of the manual antenna showing the emblem on the round metal piece and another photo of the original Nissan key. -Mike
  27. 1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

    What were we talking about? I've forgotten. 'Fumes'? Yes, I remember those. Lots of them, in fact.
  28. Steering Rack Disassembly and Refurb

    OK. I promised to post the dimensions of the end bushings and so here you go. Before I do, some general info about the bushings first: 1. The bushings are different lengths. The shorter one goes into the end closest to the pinion. 2. The dimensions are extremely strange. There seems to be a strange mix of both SAE and metric. The machinist that made the ones I had machined locally did not believe the measurements that I provided and would only do the job if he could measure both the rack as well as the housing. In the end my measurements were correct. 3. These are kind of a PITA to remove from the housing. I tried using a modified blind puller and was successful in getting the shorter ones out on a couple of different racks. However, I had to cut the other ends out to remove them. Not difficult, just tedious. 4. My local machinist cut the ID of the bushings so they were very slightly undersized (from the diameter of the rack itself). This way I was able to hone out the ID to try and match the diameter of the rack and make up for any weaR. Now to dimensions: ID - 24.98mm (diameter of rack overall is 25mm) OD - 1.125 " ( 1 1/8") or 28.55mm Shorter length - 20mm Longer length - 28mm Finally, I will tell you that I looked high and low for these and to no avail. If you feel compelled to try and find them do not even waste your time at McMaster, ASB (American Sleeve Bearing) or any of the other online sources. I spent over $100 trying to find these off the shelf and it was a waste. I did have ASB provide me a quote for a custom one (with the inner grease channel) but it was prohibitively expensive at almost $100 each. If there was enough interest I'm sure I could have my local machinist fabricate a a bunch of these at a more reasonable cost, assuming there was enough volume demand. I've included some pictures of the new bushings. Let me know if you need anything else. Mike.
  29. Hi guys. Been a while and I'm sure that you've been as busy as I have elsewhere. The last batch in August sold out within 2x months and the latest has just arrived meaning that my garage once again becomes a rich 'dump' of cardboard and stainless-steel ! If anyone is interested, not all was pre-paid and reserved - prices remain the same. Cheers
  30. Antenna Rebuild / Restore

    I reworked the plastic replacement cap for the finishing nut last week. As you can see it has a paper thin ring that goes down into the finisher nut along with a star looking washer. It fits perfectly even with the star looking washer inside the cap. Should be available to order in the next week.
  31. Hey again everyone! After getting tons of help from the great people on this forum and making a lot of mistakes, my 78 280z is finally back on the road (legal this time!). I'm gonna type up more when I get home, but here's some pictures to tide you over until then.
  32. 260Z dream car

    Thanks siteunseen and esmit. Those comments do make a difference. I just received a couple photos from my mechanic and they are true teasers, but just look at them. The factory finish on the engine bay, the proper oil filter in the right position, the voluptuous header, the slots, the springs....I'm going to let the photos tell all. You tell me what you think. Ben
  33. New to me 1982 280ZX

    update. Replaced cargo carpet since old was trash. Got rid of 50lb of bumboxes , Amps, cables, power, equalizer etc. Installed regular after market AM/FM/CD refinished Valve cover in crackle black replaced "LOUD" muffler with a Turbo, which sounds fantastic but civilized. My local Z specialist did $$$$ of work. New Poly bushings all around. New shocks. new struts. new ball bearings, steering rack, new Radiator new Rad hoses, new Batt, replaced ALL rubber hoses (fuel, air, FI), etc. cleaned Fuel tank, Injectors, all fluids. Car drives like a dream. Love the straight SIX and the 5 Speed tranny. Pulls strong. Paint has flaws. Its a 10 footer. as far as style. I prefer the 2x2 body than the normal 2 seater Z. To me personally, the 2x2 has a more proportional shape with a nice rear end hanging past the rear axle. The 2 seater is beautifull sure, but it ends too abruptly for my taste. In addition, I can fold the 2 rear seats and lots of square footage back there for cargo. Very happy with this beautifull automobile. Got lots of "thumbs up" today.
  34. Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    While my two 240s are far from stock, every time I read a post showing NLA parts being reproduced makes me smile. Who knows I might have a third Z in my future, one I keep stock. Of course I would have to keep a third Z a secret from my wife. A tip of the hat to nix240Z.
  35. [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    That is unfortunate!!! Maybe it was not what the forum had to offer you in the way of links or network but what you had to offer the forum...
  36. [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    That's a good idea ZH, only maybe it should be called The Douchebag Zone, but then it would only have one member.
  37. [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    Wow. That is a nice array of cars you have. Grats. Im a 280Z owner so I don't get hung up on on all these issues. I have being told my car doesn't count because its not a "real" S30 ...... After excepting that as their opinion, I just get on with enjoying it. That is why I bought it in the first place.
  38. 260Z dream car

    The car is complete! My car is the 305 blue 260Z in the sea of 240z's. The mechanic is putting some miles on the car and tweaking what needs to be done. It is in the testing phase. I still have not seen the car, but what I have seen in photos; WOW! It's in good company sitting next to Ms. Butter's (Rob's personal 920 gold 240z) and my buddy Glenn's Fairlady 240ZL that is on the other side of my car on the lift. This photo was sent to me and all I thought was that this is a 'dream garage.' I look forward to giving you guys more updates and a detailed review with photos of my 260z when it's back at home and terrorizing the streets! Ben
  39. Water pump comparison

    If you subscribe to engineering magazines like Racecar Engineering and Race Engine Tech, they often have articles on Cooling system design. Circle Track Racing also has very good articles. The testing has already been done. You just have to find the articles. BTW... the stamped steel designs always fall to the bottom of the tests. It's not a real surprise is it? Look how complex Compressor wheels are on a Turbo. W/Pumps are the exact same thing. Only thye move a Liquid, not air. Same principles apply though. W/Pump design gets very, very critical. It is surprising how the smallest detail can affect pump efficiency. All of your Top Racing w/pimps use CNC designed impellers and Volutes these days. Equal flow, block pressure and Anti Cavitation are all areas that must be addressed. Impellor to Volute clearances are very critical. The lack of the back plate of those Stamped " Paddle wheels " greatly affects their efficiency. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0404-water-pump/
  40. Water pump comparison

    It's Labatt's 240260280.
  41. Stock Hood

    Got my hood thanks to ironhead68
  42. DATSUN LLC Rebuilt Engine Opinion

    Look for help here
  43. Annoying noise!

    plane is crossing the mountains, suddenly had engine trouble and is going down. the passengers, the boy scout the priest, the richest man in the world and the smartest man in the world realize there are only 3 parachutes the richest man proclaims "I am a rich important person that must live on", grabs a chute and jumps. the smartest man proclais " I must live on as I must have children so my intellect will be able to improve the human race" grabs a chute and jumps. the priest tells the boy, take the last chute and save yourself, I have lived a long and fulfilling life and I am ready to meet my maker" to which the boy replies, "its ok father, there are 2 chutes left, the smartest man in the world jumped out with my back pack" I know this is not the correct forum prob for jokes, but I think the point I learned is to not overthink a problem.
  44. 2018 ZCON Information

    Cool! It would be nice to see some West coasters @Mike @Zed Head @Mark Maras and others... You all could compete for furthest attendee
  45. Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    A couple of years ago we had a discussion about softening old rubber. Someone (I think it was 240260280) came up with a formula that softens and keeps the rubber soft after the solvent has evaporated. The formula was 1 pt. xylene and 2 ozs. of wintergreen oil. I mixed some up and soaked some old cracked, crusty hood bumpers for 24 hours. I tried flexing one as soon as it came out of the mix. It was nice and soft but crumbled when it was flexed. I waited 24 hours for some of the solvent to evaporate from the rubber and tried the flex test again. The results were much better. No crumble and a lot more flexibility. I found wintergreen oil to be very expensive however. In my notes on the subject there is a reference to "Thor Tire Prep #12". As I recall it is a tire conditioner (softener) used for racing. Might be worth looking into.
  46. rotella t4 oil

    The ZDDP kills Catalytic converters is just another example of " Internet misinformation " or " Partial information ". Catalytic converters are a consumable product. Just like Brake pads or Clutches. Thye have a finite Lifespan. Alway have... alway will have. ZDDP does not " Kill " Catalytic converters. Cars have had Catalytic converters since the Mid 1970's and the oils back then had a hell of a lot more ZDDP in them back then. They lasted fine back then and still do. The only reason for the reduction in ZDDP in Motor oils is because the EPA upped the testing standard for Catalytics from 100,000 miles to 150,000 miles in the mid 2000's. Now one of the main materials of a Catalytic converter is Platinum. Platinum is freakin' expensive. Almost equal to the cost of Gold per once. Now ZDDP does slowly, very slowly degrade the performance of the Platinum Catalyst. But it takes a super long time and Manufacturers used just enough Platinum to last 100,000 miles and still pass the EPA test. But when the EPA decided to raise the test standards to 150,000 miles . No problem, the engineers could meet that standard. They just had to use more Platinum in the Honeycomb Matrix. So this was just an engineering problem.... and then the " Bean Counters " got involve. They didn't want to fork out more money for added Platinum. And studies had shown that if you reduced the amount of ZDDP in the oils, then you could meet the new tougher EPA test with the same Catalytic converters and amounts of Platinum in them. Note: ZDDP's main function is to reduce metal to metal contact in extreme load situations. It is a VERY effective extreme pressure agent. The interface between a flat tappet lifter and camsahft, or sliding finger follower style Valvetrain is the highest load pressure point in an engine. Since all of the BIg 3 manufactures had been using Roller Lifter or Roller follower Valve Trains since the late 80's to early 90's, this sounded like a great idea to the Bean Counters. Make an oil with less ZDDP and problem solved. The oil makers were on board with this as they could save a couple of pennies in additive amounts of ZDDP in each bottle of oil. Only 1 company objected. GM. They did not agree with the amount of ZDDP reduction that the oil companies and EPA had proposed. They were worried about, older engines... that still used Flat Tappet Cams. Like those in GM SBC.BBC,, and Pontiac and Buick engines still being used buy Vintage car owners, hot rodders and Racers. And also in older trucks, generators and agriculture for pumping stations etc They actually proposed a les strict Oil standard in ZDDP reduction , that would be compatible with older flat tappet Cams ( and finger followers ) and could meet the the new 150,000 mile Catalytic tests.... with only a slight increase in Platinum amount required, compared to the Current SG/SH oils. But this proposal was shot down by the EPA and other manufacturers. Vintage cars, old vehicles and Lord forbid " Racers ???? F**k them. Let them all buy new Jelly Bean cars. They're all a bunch of degenerate heathens. And this in the mid-2000's, you started seeing the " Great Camshaft Meltdown " with horror stories of Hot Rods and High Performance engines grinding their Camshafts into mush. Problem was exacerbated with High Lift cams and stiffer Valve springs. But fear not. The Oil companies came back with a solution. They would introduce new " Specialty Oils " , that did not have to the new Energy Star ( SM/SN API rating ) . So they basically introduced an old formula oil, then slapped some fancy stickers on it and called it " Hot Rod " oils. And of course they charged double the money, because this was " Special Oil "...... and they had the Hot Rodders, Muscle Car and Vintage enthusiasts by the balls. PT Barnum would have been proud... So in short... if you have a pre 2006 car, older higher Zinc oils won't " Kill " your Catalytic converter. At least not very quickly. If you have a later model car and are concerned about maintaining the Emissions warranty for 150,000 miles ... then you may want to use a new Energy Star rated SM/SN oil. Of course if you do ANY modifications to the valve train. All bets are off. Oh, and if you have a new car with Direct Fuel Injection? Good Luck. Better find out how the High Pressure Injection Pump ( Up to 1,660 PSI ) is made. The bosch systems ( Audi/VW. BMW, Mercedes Porsche and others ) use a Bucket lifter in the High Pressure pump. Guess what... they are wearing out in as little as 20,000 miles. Even with numerous recalls on DI Injection pumps and " Diamond Like Coatings " being spayed on the buckets,. All because the new oils are SH*TE. It's a HUGE industry problem. Especially in Europe on the Autobahns. Higher speeds, higher engine temps, oil thins out.... buh bye $2,000 to $3,000 dollar injection pump. Some of the Japanese manufactures were smarter. They used Roller Tipped actuators to operate the High Pressure pump. No issues with reduced ZDDP. FWIW. BTW, all of this information is available in SAE White Papers and Technical articles like Engine Tech and Race Car engineering. Also covered on dedicated sites such as " Bob Is The Oil Guy ", Despite the rather strange name, BITOG is one of THE best sites for accurate lubrication information. Where actual Chemical, Mechanical and Petroleum engineers contribute regularly. an Laboratory Testing results are abundant. Well worth a visit and a long read. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
  47. Taillight panel paint

    Sure. The OP asked "Does anyone have a source for the correct color paint?" And to that question, several people have offered up suggestions of sources they think are the correct color. Some of them cheap and easy to find, and some of them expensive and much more difficult to obtain. But cost and availability aside, I believe all the responses to date have stuck to the topic. Every single one of them. Even the response where someone suggested that the question should not have even been asked in the first place and admonished the OP for even asking for help:
  48. Taillight panel paint

    Paint samples: My favorite. Wheel... Of... Paint!!
  49. Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

    Yes, this really was a tough choice. I talked with my paint guy at length about the two options. We went with the two stage in order to have a more durable finish and simpler touch-up if needed. We also wanted the paint to really shine and standout. Durability is also why most of the undercarriage is powdercoated, the underside is POR-15ed, and I put clear coat or matte coat clear over some parts (like aluminum). Otherwise, in 4 or 5 years the process needs to be repeated. Ideally, it would be nice to have the restoration look perfect for another 40-something years.
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