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  1. Thanks for the good words! In HTRYDZC I tried to keep to the names Datsun gave parts in the factory shop manuals, though not in every case; some were too silly. I can't think of a lot of good things to say about the dash removal chore; I just did my new 'restomod' '71 project a couple of years ago, and I still have the sound system, alarm, and A/C to finish wiring up. Not that it's so difficult, but once the thing is back in, there is so little room to work even with the glove box still out. Not impossible, but my joints aren't what they were back in 1987 when I reassembled HLS003547. Oh well... BTW: Howard Fisher and I are working on a complete revision of the Restore book, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of it's being 'in print', and thank goodness, still selling pretty well. Who'd have ever guessed? My pal Steve Pettersen (Pettersen Motorworks, Chico CA) is collaborating, and we hope to have some color shots, esp to replace some of the murky ones I did on the old Nikon Ftn 35-mm. back in the day. Besides some nice cars and parts, he has several spectacular Z's under restoration -- if he could get all those funny old roadsters out of his resto shop! Wick PS/ anybody want to buy my NL320 trucks? Both '65's, one nice red one, and a rare black project for a lot less dough. I want to build Kustom! Happy Z Trails!
  2. All finished with the 73......new shocks, springs, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, Wilwoods and bushings. I really like the way she sits and handles with the new Eibachs.....car drives like new. Now the car is as fun to stop as it is to go. If anyone needs help with any of the above improvements, feel free to ask.
  3. We had our MARRS #1 race at Summit Point this weekend and went down Friday to bed in tires and brakes and to give the cars a general shakedown. I took my 72 240Z, John took his 72 240Z and Jeff took his 73 240Z. Friday went well until the third lap when I couldn't shift into fourth...or any gear and had to be towed back. The problem appeared to be with the clutch so I removed the exhaust, starter, clutch slave, driveshaft transmission and clutch. The flywheel was loose and the head of a flywheel bolt broke off was jamming the clutch. The flywheel wobble at 7400 RPM caused the metal from the flywheel to be transferred to back of the crank. I spent a couple hours or so slowly chipping off the metal. So much fun! I got everything back together and went out for the last session of the day. It was great for a few laps and then I felt a vibration and came in. We hooked up the trailer and loaded up the car to go home. But I'm not one to give up. I put the car on jack stands and removed everything again. The crank wasn't too bad this time. I grabbed a fresh flywheel and had Jeff and Steve (our crewman) work on it while I ate supper. We put the trans back in, bolted up the starter and driveshaft, hooked up the exhaust and bled the brakes. I didn't start it because I wanted the Loctite to set. Loaded up in the morning and headed to the track to qualify. Jeff Q'ed on the pole, I was 4th and John was 8th. The car seemed ok. We raced in the afternoon. The BMW starting 2nd damaged his car in another race so he was out. The Miata starting 3rd didn't show up so I got to start on outside pole next to Jeff. I got a good start but he was much faster and left the rest of us in his dust. I raced Mark Johnston in the 240SX all race long. We swapped positions a few times but I was ahead most of the time. I seemed to be stronger near the end and opened a small gap but on the last lap I hot traffic and he caught up. I had him beat coming out of the last turn. With about 100 yard to go I shifted into 4th and the throttle linkage popped off at the gas pedal. Mark flew by and beat me by .2 seconds. John had battery issued and DNF'ed Sunday was longer and less exciting. I started 3rd and finished 3rd. I followed Mark and Jeff for a lap but they were both much faster. John started 4th and after 2 laps I dropped him. His battery died a couple turns form the finish. Jeff won easily and I was 3rd. Here are some pics. Yellow is mine, blue is John's and white is Jeff's. The pic of the 4 of us is Steve, John, Jeff and me. Chuck
  4. Went to a local car show today. Over 400 cars and trucks, some pretty amazing vehicles. Only two classes for imports: pre-1970 & 1970 and later. I pulled a second place award behind a 2017 Holden Commodore (brand new car). I guess you could say we bracketed the class at the extreme ends. Extremely windy, temp in the low 80's, great show and lots of great company.
  5. You and the pooch are always welcome Cliff.......Millie would love a pal.
  6. Redoing the front end of the 73....new ball joints, tierod ends, Tokico Blues, Eibach and Willwood brakes.
  7. I've decided to buy the Z! After receiving a very thorough overview from norcal z, I was able to make a confident decision. As he mentioned the car will require some TLC. But seeing as I'm in it for the long haul, perfection looks very attainable and I look forward to my future with my fellow enthusiasts! In due time you will see me appearing all over the forums with lots of questions and findings. Thank you to everyone who has shown their support, I am so excited about this pleasant community here. A very special thank you to norcal z for his phenomenal attention to detail and insight during my purchase process. Couldn't have made the decision without you Gary! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  8. I have responded to your requests Philip and Jim. Thank you for the compliments on the clips. Just glad I could solve one of my own problems and help others at the same time. I was not able to find any barrel clips that were small enough for the holes as everything I had on hand was too big. Knowing I will remove these at some point in the future to paint the car, I did not want to do something so secure that it would break the pins off when I remove them. I ended up using some black RTV gasket maker to essentially glue them in place. Using some blocked of styrofoam and a few bungee cords wrapped around the hatch to apply pressure on each end, the final result looks fantastic. They sit nice and flush against the body. I tried pulling up on them and so far they seem pretty secure. Below are some pictures of the end result. Job done!
  9. I think Captain Obvious characterized some needles on this site. FYI Now that I have a lathe, I am catching up on ideas I have pooled. I am am currently building a needle fabrication machine for making customized needles. I may offer customized needles eventually.
  10. I finally got out to my other garage and took pictures. It's hard to see but there's a Fairlady Z dash, NOS frame rails, NOS quarters, and other NOS metal, early hatches, early steering wheels, E31 heads, a couple turbo engines, 5 speeds, diffs, etc. The black Z was the first car I ever owned and white Z is a 69 Z.
  11. Hopefully Kats won't mind me answering that question. I think you're getting mixed up between the PS30 Fairlady Z432 and the PS30-SB Fairlady Z432-R. It was only the 432-R which had the full-length, FRP 'under cover':
  12. For some time now I've been wanting to re-route my spark plug wires around the front of the engine area so it cleaned up the top of the valve cover and provided an overall cleaner look in my engine bay. However, all of the installations that I have seen essentially use tie wraps to hold the wire bundle together as it is routed along the passenger side of the block and around the front to the distributor. Typically there is also some sort of clamp in the front part of the engine that holds the bundle to either the valve cover or the front cover plate. The notion of using tie wraps for this application just didn't sit well with me mainly from an aesthetics standpoint, but I also did not like the idea of the wires being held tightly together and the possibility of crosstalk between wires (although I suspect this is pretty rare these days given the quality and size of the plug wire used in modern applications). So I did a ton of research to look for aftermarket solutions that would provide a clean look and keep the wires separated to some level. I even purchased a couple of options to try them out on my car, but they were just not delivering the look I was searching for. Unfortunately most of these solutions are designed for V type engines and they just don't lend themselves very well to our straight line sixes. So I spent some time with my son Alex (a mechanical engineer) discussing the problem and he devised what looked to be a pretty interesting solution. So I purchased some aluminum stock and set about machining the pieces he designed. I also made a couple of small brackets for the front part of the engine so that I can ensure that the bundle stays tight and close to the block. Given that the bundle runs under the top radiator hose I also needed to make sure that there was ample clearance between the wire bundle and the hose itself. I just finished this today and thought I would share it with the forum so you can see what we did and also get any feedback on our implementation. All in all I am very happy with how it came out and it met all of my criteria both from an aesthetics and performance viewpoint. Here's a few pictures so you can see how we implemented this. Look forward to your feedback. Mike.
  13. 3+ hours of cruising the twisties, straights and back country roads of North Texas with the Cowtown Z club - awesome day! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  14. @Wick Humble The Z Community will be really excited about your HTRYDZC revisited Title. Your book has been invaluable to me and many, many others in our quest to restore these Z'z. It IS the definitive work on the subject. I can't tell you how many times I have wished for clearer photos though! Right now--- I want (hope/ wish/ will pay for) an autographed copy as soon as it is released. So glad to see you "name drop" Steve as a collaborator! What a great combination,--- you two! He is my "go to" guy out there in the "Land o' Plenty" for hard to find Z items and has helped me numerous times. We chat by phone every few months. Steve clued me in on his projects some time back, but I am "sworn to silence" even though you mentioned it. I would say he has one in particular that is the "project of a lifetime". Thanks Wick, for everything! Jim D. "Zup"
  15. Thank you everyone, my like button run out today, sorry I could not hit all of them, tomorrow I will ! Like Alan said, Datsun Netherland advised a lot , and Mr.Takei is the important engineer about this. He talked about this in some magazines, we can read it with cross reference techniques.I will refer the articles later. Kats
  16. It's only the clock that eventually stops ticking... so that you can hear the valves better.
  17. .......I figured since I was installing new Wilwoods and had everything apart, I'd replace the bearings (and the dreaded races). Bought a set of bearing race and seal drifts for $25.00......amazing what the right tool does for this job. Drive out the races with a punch....seat em with the correct drift....saves a lot of cussing and destruction. BTW packing the bearings by hand sucks! Next....taking the struts to my machine shop to remove the gland nut....thanks Hardway for keeping me from doing things the hard way!
  18. Figuring out the fuel level in the float chamber is easy. What we really need is for somebody to come up with a mechanism that allows the float level to be adjusted needing to remove the float chamber lid.
  19. Seriously... You can say that with a straight face? If I told my wife I'm headed out to the garage to wax my drive shaft, I'm not sure she'd be home when I came back in.
  20. When you say the numbers don't match, what do you mean? The engine number should match the data plate under the hood that has the engine number on it, not the VIN number....
  21. Sorry, I don't get it. How could he have "...purchased the car new late 1969..." when it was built after July/August 1970?
  22. There's no "mystery" here, unless we include the mystery as to why certain people won't listen to established fact and common sense. The car in question was built after one of my own cars, which was built in mid/late 1970. Nissan Shatai's own records - quoted by me in one of the previous posts on this thread - tell us what S30-prefixed chassis numbers were built on 1969 and 1970. This is a 1970 build-dated car and a mid to late 1970 build date at that. "Stone throwing"? Get a grip.
  23. For sale is a set of 4 clips that hold the duct work to the backside of the hatch sheet metal and provide the location for the barrel clip that holds the vent grille on. Also known as a Tailgate Ventilator Clip. Please reference Nissan part# 90829-E4100 and the link below. These have been NLA for years and I discovered a personal need for a set. With the help of others I had a local sheet metal fabrication company produce a run of 100 clips which equals 25 sets. I needed a set myself and I am keeping an extra as a spare thus making 23 sets available. The clips are made of spring steel just like the originals and are clear zinc plated to protect against corrosion. Each set is $50.00 US shipped w/insurance & tracking to anywhere in the continental US. Shipping to Canada should not be too much more but reach out to me for a specific quote. There is a $5.00 discount for each set after the first if you purchase 2 or more sets at one time. Meaning 1 set = $50, 2 sets = $95, 3 sets = $140. Please review all of the pictures below. The clip in black is an original that was used to model the new clips off of. The new clips hold the duct work nice and tight to the under side sheet metal and fit very well in to the recess of the plastic chrome vent grille. Please ask all questions prior to purchasing. Payment accepted via Paypal and I will only ship to the Paypal address. Please DO NOT use the friends and family method. PM me for my Paypal email address or mailing address as check is welcome as well. I will ship out each set within 2 business days of payment being received. Original link - http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/57001-series-1-hatch-vent-duct-clips-restoration-info-needed/
  24. taken with a dash cam no doubt.... Sorry...
  25. Sent from my SM-G935P using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  26. Page1 Title :HLS30Q (Z Europe model) countermeasures High speed stability test Objective: countermeasure S30 crosswind stability and set spec of Europe export model Date : from February 1970 to 27th March 1971 1 Outline Soon after S30 went on sale, poor cross wind stability was heard. To export S30 to Europe market , we knew it was a very important key to develop and raise its stability at high speed and in cross wind situation to the level of satisfied. K42( car / chassis test ) had started basic study and development about crosswind stability using domestic S30 well before this program began . From May 1970, that activity succeeded to this program, and continued testing, developing Europe model. Finally, the difference from North American model (HLS30U) is, a) style element Front spoiler and rear spoiler added b ) suspension element strengthening sping rate and stabilizer front and rear front and rear shock absorber's damping force up applied 5J -14 rim and 175-HR14, applied C30 rack mounting insulator (Replaced from SUGURI type) Kats
  27. Up and running after winter hibernation! Lovely day for this years first drive.
  28. UPDATE: - grinding the shift rod worked! 5th gear engages and works like a champ - replaced the bushings and shift pin with the kit from MSA (clear rubber bushings) - shifter feels so much better and no more vibrations at high RPM's - cruized home at 85 mph in 5th gear and felt so good Enjoyed a ribeye with my buddy after we got done (and a few beers of course) Cheers, y'all! Thanks again for your help. This site is a wealth of knowledge Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  29. I'm sticking this one in just for fun, not because anyone would or could buy one. This is the 1st generation BRE "Spook", used only in the 1970 competition season. It was already installed by the dealer when I bought the car. Its been suggested by a knowledgeable source it may be the last one in existence. This design was replaced by the version in post #30.
  30. Thank you Alan, I have read that thread started by Blue, a lot of information there, I should read that first, thank you Alan , Blue too. Alan you are telling "it is not that easy story ,a history has very complicated stories behind " . I have got you. After reading that, "politics " is the key word for me, I think Nissan wanted to have victory as many as possible by S20 , the car was GTR. Same time Nissan wanted S30 to win with S20 first , but then L 24. For Nissan, winning various car , various engine is good thing to appeal their ability to people. The fact that terrible vibration occurred PZR's FS5C71A which many factory racers complained could affect Nissan's "politics" pushed forward , I mean switching plan LR24 came earlier than they expected, did not ? Or the vibration problem was just a bad compatibility of PZR and S20? Was it just coincident ? GTR would have same problem but Murayama fixed it nicely and immediately? Or even that problem was " already expected", Nissan knew it ? Nissan would have a retirement plan of PZR in 1970 so , they chose remaining as it is rather than solving the problem? Very interesting ! Kats PS the pictures is Mr.Maruyama , he was a senior captain of B777 retired at age of 65 last year, I flew with him on his "Last Flight". He knew I have Zs, he kindly let me see his younger days in the sky. His farther bought the new car 1975 S30 for him, Mr.Maruyama said "my father was so excited about his son became a pilot trainee, I still thank my father because I did not have that big money for buying it ..." Mr.Maruyama owned it 10 years, where is the car now?
  31. Kats, We are very privileged to be able to see 'Maruhi' (Secret) factory internal documentation such as this. Thank you! This was the testing that Takei san was involved in, yes? I see the name Takahashi on the report too. Datsun Netherlands was clearly a great influence on all this as Nissan's European base. I had heard in the past that Nissan had a lot of feedback coming from Datsun Netherlands with regard to product refinement and development, and Nissan took it seriously. Lots of sightings in period of mysterious Japanese cars on Japanese temporary-export 'Carnet' plates whizzing around on European roads. Some of them full of electronic measuring instruments and men with clipboards taking notes... For me, the 'Entreposto' Portuguese market 240Zs were the prettiest and nicest-equipped of all the Export market versions.
  32. Kats, I don't want to clutter up your thread with a big off-topic diversion. There was a recent thread here (now much edited and revised, and even with some of the photos I posted in reply subsequently cut-and-pasted back into the first post, a habit which makes nonsense of much of what we do here) in which I attempted to answer some of the same questions: It's impossible to answer such questions without going into the complex interdepartmental politics at play (ex-Prince Murayama/Ogikubo vs Nissan Oppama et al) and the conflicting interests, power struggle and growing pains that soundtracked it all. Nissan and Prince were only a few short years on from their (forced) merger, and basically the ex-Prince guys were never really happy that *their* blue-blooded race-derived engine was being used in an S30-series car in the first place. A lot of what we observe was simply a function of that... In trying to undrestand the 432 and 432-R (especially the 432-R) I always find it helpful to look to Nissan's clear inspiration: The Porsche 911S and the 911T/R and 911R. The 911R in particular was a big reference point for Nissan when they created the 432-R, and there are many parallels. I sometimes hear - and read - people talking about the 432 and 432-R as though they were some kind of failure because "Nissan gave up after making just 420 or so". I don't think I've ever heard the same thing about cars such as the 911R, 911RS or 911RSR, and that's hopefully because people understand a little more about the reasons for their existence and their context. These are homologation specials that we are talking about here. Cars created and sold to the general public with the specific purpose of legalising them - along with many of the parts they used - for race use in certain categories. The 432 was created to qualify for sports car racing's 'G.T.' class and the 432-R was created to qualify for sports cars racing's 'Prototype' class. The minimum requirement for the Prototype class was for 25 cars of the same specification to be manufactured, which Nissan satisfied with the 432-R just as Porsche had done with the 911R. Nissan - like Porsche - never had any great intention (let alone the capacity for production or projected sales...) of churning out thousands of such cars. Rather than looking at production totals for the 432/432-R as "only" 420-odd I'd say that - all things considered - the whole thing was a success as a halo model, as an exercise in homologation and racing/rallying and an important step in becoming a world class auto maker and I'm actually surprised that they managed to sell as many as they did. Once the 432-R had been created, and had won, it had served its purpose as far as Nissan were concerned. The parts, specs and knowledge lived on through 1970 in domestic circuit racing and through to the end of 1971 in international rallying (the FIA outlawing the 432-R's legacy parts for the 1972 international season). 'Job done'.
  33. Greetings all from the depths of central Alberta Canada where we get a max of 5 good driving months and 7 of just obsessing on what you can do to your Z next season l laugh but really its getting expensive and on a city workers salary people beginning to wonder if i have started to slip a little mentally 26k$ deep and no sign of stopping soon , oh and please don't say recognizing you have a problem is the first step in recovery cause now one likes a quitter . i will update pics when its warmed up a bit to many things have change since these pics were taken a 3.1 stroker now resides in that engines place now
  34. I have been battling fuel pressure/lean conditions since doing my engine swap. Since the new motor has an N47 head, I'm only using an electric fuel pump. The stock one didn't cut it. The baby Holley fuel pump was worse. Too bad since it mounted right where the stock pump did. I went with a bigger Holley with a fuel pressure regulator. I had to play with the hose routing some, but at the end, I got the pressure I needed. After some tweaking (going out to 3 turns), the engine didn't act lean on acceleration, even after it warmed up. Keep your fingers crossed for me.
  35. Finished up installing Tokicos, Eibachs and brake parts for the rear of the 73. Just bled the rear brakes. Now on to shocks, springs and new Willwood brakes for the front.
  36. I've thought about making the bolt that mounts the fuel bowl into an eccentric/offset bolt with a 0.5 cm offset... Someday I'll have time to make one...., two I guess.
  37. Beautiful photos. I was in the area once and tried to make it to the top of Pike's Peak in a rental car. It was raining at the bottom, and the ranger stopped us about 3/4 of the way to the top because it was blizzard conditions and road was closed because the snow plow slid off the side of the road. Something about the plow was trying to clear the avalanche? The thing was... They had just closed the road about a half hour before, and those who were already at the top were stuck there. Nobody up, and nobody down! I was with SWMBO, and I cannot imagine what would have happened if we were some of those stuck at the top... I'd still be hearing about it! She was already nervous about the roads and wanted to turn around. I wanted to get to the top and pressed on. If we would gotten stuck at the top, it would not have been pretty!
  38. Wow, that is pretty close match. Progress has slowed considerably now that I'm back at work but have manged to get the fuel and brake lines in, parking brake mechanism, gas tank and fuel pump in. Next job the headliner - no mistakes allowed. This pic is for @zKars, This pic is for @Blue is now 240260280, as you can see I still haven't figured out the white balance
  39. 2 likes
    Your desire to drive Redbird as a daily driver has been astounding to me, you always come up with a plan that works and saves money. You've also made a bunch of friends, although foul mouthed men like me we are friends nonetheless.
  40. Quit calling it a pig! Rub her gently and whisper in the pillar emblem, "okay Baby Doll we gonna do this nice and slow". Chickuh, bow-wow, right now!
  41. A V6 in an F1 car I long for the sound of those screaming V10s.
  42. I used the link Mike suggested. Worked great. I had never done this before and I think the dash was out in under 2 hours. Also label screws and wires. And it's easier to have a friend help you to lift it out and back in. I was alone and it wasent that heavy but next time I'll get someone to assist. /Andreas
  43. Don't forget the air filters that are included in Site's carbs. I can't seem to find similar cast filters. At a minimum I would think that adds $150-200 to the deal
  44. A mirror, long socket extensions, a wobbly socket attachment, and tape could all come in handy. Working on them is an acquired technique and can be very frustrating in the beginning. Make sure that all of your surfaces are clean and flat when you reassemble because the exhaust system is prone to leaking. Even new headers sometimes need some minor surface work. If you think that stud is about to break, stop and think hard before deciding to go ahead and snap it off. Heat, and PB Blaster and tricks might be better used early than late. The same problem is there with the thermostat housing bolts. They like to break too.
  45. Polished SASSZ's little sister RoZy! Almost warm enough to hit the road!
  46. I guess I'm going to have to buy the kit off the zstore like steveJ said and get the covers and everything Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  47. A little Artistic Fun. Fake Retro Ads. 300zx in 1971?