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  1. Yesterday actually---- Took advantage of the warmest temperatures for the date in over 100 years to change the rear brake drums on my 73 240Z. Let me tell you a story---- In the frenzy of activity made in preparation for ZCON 2015 in Memphis my paint shop took it upon themselves to paint my suspension. While this would normally be a good thing (and it was) there was just one small detail they overlooked in their zeal. They painted the brake drums black! NOOOooooooo----say it ain't soooo! With no time remaining to reverse this I went on to the show. The blackened brake drums had bugged me ever since but--- as is often the case with such things-- they were relegated to a "back burner" status in the scheme of life. Quite some time back,while musing through the pages of Motorsports (MSA) site, I saw a listing for new aluminum--not steel-- brake drums. Being a stickler for originality, I bookmarked in my mind that someday I should purchase a set of them as they are difficult--- if not near impossible--- to find new. I mentioned my discovery to my very good friend Jim Smirlies @S30Driver (or alternatively Jim2). He opined that "Yes", that would be a nice item to squirrel away for "future proofing". Time passes---- Jim comes to the Zup house frequently and we invited him to share Christmas Day with us for the usual camaraderie of gifting,dinner and football. Kagy (my significant other) handed me a large beautifully wrapped box with a tag which read "Holiday Cheers" that when opened read "To: Jim From: Jim2 "Merry Christmas". Needless to say I was completely blown away! It was a set of those brake drums from Jim. I was absolutely stunned! Such a thoughtful friend! Too much! Fast forward to the record breaking warmth of yesterday------------ Jim and I jacked up the rear of my 73 Z ("Zilver") and removed the offending black drums and installed the pristinely beautiful, raw aluminum silver gift set. While doing so, we gave a good cleaning to the "McGard" lugnuts that Jim2 had tasked Captain Obvious @Captain Obvious to specially modify to fit my American Racing Libre rims. I can report that after 2 years of exhaustive, daily commute, high speed road use and exposure to the harshest of Ozark climactic elements, the "McGard" lugnuts are as nice as day one, and that CO still remains as the provider "nonpareil" of lugnuts. Life is very good at the Zup garage and I am fortunate indeed. Thank you Jim2 and Captain Obvious! You guys are the best! The obligatory photos of these extraordinary acts of friendship and kindness follow: Jim D. "Zup"
  2. Just got a text from the guy I sold it to. No more rust, repainted exterior and some interior. All new weatherstripping and shined up wheels. Looks good and he is very happy with it. Here's what it did look like, 110.zip
  3. I drive my '78 280Z everyday 40+miles. The car is made to be driven. Unless you are at the level to keep a garage 'queen' , just drive the thing and enjoy it. Fuel injection was made for reliability. Did I mention I DD mine in DFW traffic everyday, except some rainy ones? It starts everytime I turn the key, AC still blows cold(Lord, please let it last!), it has never over heated with the stock cooling system, and I still smile each time I get in it. I feel like I know every inch of it by now.
  4. Hey guys, I made a few calls and spoke to both Ryan @ Zcar Depot (ZCD) and John @ Bad Dog Parts (BDP). I appreciate the time these guys spent with me on the phone and I'm glad to take a neutral ground on the issue. I think it's worth the time to help our Z community. Anyway, here's what I found: History: BDP has been selling these parts since 2003. ZCD started selling them in the last few months. Manufacturing: Both gentlemen are obtaining their parts from different sources. BDP has the parts built locally by a friend, and ZCD buys them from an existing supplier. Copying: ZCD started selling the parts after they were approached by their existing supplier and did not copy the BDP parts. After realizing they were selling the same product, ZCD purchased a set from BDP to do a side-by-side comparison. Conclusion: ZCD does not have a lot of inventory of these parts. So, out of respect for BDP, ZCD has agreed to pull the parts from the website and won't be selling them in the near future. From what I can tell, both of these gentlemen are interested in providing a service to the community and want to show respect for one another. After making this arrangement, it sounds like there may be an opportunity for these gents to work together again. I see a possible opportunity for B2B transactions taking place. Anyway, I hope this helps remedy the situation. Thanks again to both guys for taking my calls and discussing the matter. Good luck in your future ventures! Mike
  5. The new exhaust arrived today. Sean's system is gorgeous and I am looking forward to getting the Z out of storage and getting started. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  6. Lets be completely clear, yes, I love my panasports. They are perfect in every way (Guy looking at you bud! ), but sometimes you just want something different for a while. Can you have too many swiss watches? Can you have too many .45 caliber Firearms? Is it possible to have too many vintage cars? I say no too those and many other questions like...No honey I have not had enough cookies today. So I could no longer resist the temptation of the satin black konig rewinds sold by MSA for 479 shipped. So badda bing one click later they are on the way. Lets talk tires. Recall I have tried three different sized on my 15x7 wheels up to this point. 205/60/15 with front fiberglass spoiler lowered a bit on tokiko springs and struts was fine 205/60/15 with OEM bodywork lowered on tokiko springs and struts were NOT fine 195/60/15 with OEM bodywork lowered on tokiko springs and struts were fine 205/55/15 with OEM bodywork lowered on tokiko springs and struts were fine 205/55/15 with OEM body work lowered a bit less on Eibach pro spring and tokiko struts are obviously flne So having said that, I have more 15x7 wheels coming in that will need tires. Since I raised my car up a tad I was thinking of trying 205/60/15's again. I know Guy is a big fan of the 205/55/15, but I was wondering with the 3/4" of ride height if I moved the wheel far enough down the arch of the front OEM bodywork if it would fit. Not sure. I am also thinking of adding the stock 240Z side sticker that runs along the bottom of the door and sides of the car. Yes the same side sticker I peeled off when I bought it... Don't judge me!
  7. The point about the 280 is that they are built a little stronger, more refined if you will, than a 240 and like Hardway mentioned, more plentiful therefore currently less money than a 240. You'll get essentially the same experience driving any Z of that era compared to todays standard including the lack of safety. I wouldn't say 240s are classier. They are a little quicker and snappier, but they still aren't a GTR. Neither is a 260 or a 280. I appreciate your want. Everybody here on this forum has it. We wallow in it on a daily basis. I encourage you to scratch the Z itch but do it with a little forethought. Have something you can depend on and drive in rain also. The fact of the matter is that almost all of us have a modern(ish) vehicle to DD (mine is Toyota Highlander) and these Z' are a passion to us. Safety is one of those things that seem's to come to mind right about the time you realize you have responsibilities to someone other than yourself. If your girlfriend gets a title change, that's something to think about. Now if you'll excuse me, there seem's to be kids in my yard that need runnin' off…..
  8. Since no one is going to be able to talk you out of the idea of getting a classic Z as a daily driver, I will add this. If you are going to get one, get a 280z. You can always make it look like a 240z with skinny bumpers, 240z lower valance, and if you really want to go to the trouble you can do some fab work and fit 240z tail lights. That said, the 280z is heavier so it rides a little better, interior is trimmed a little nicer, 5spd's were optional and easy to find, they are plentiful and they are usually half the price of a 240z in the same condition. I will add this, if you are looking for a classic Z driving experience in a modern day car, buy a used Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ. I have a 2013 FR-S 6-spd manual and a 1971 240z with a 5-speed and the FR-S is really a modern day classic Z. Its light, handles super well, not the fastest thing in the world but it is rev-happy and can get to 90mph in short order (ask me how I know). Plus you have all the modern amenities and safety of a newer car. You say you have not been in any accidents in 3 years, good for you. Unfortunately and you know this all too well living in Houston, your number will come up and you don't want to be in a vehicle that you may not walk away from. Add bonuses like not smelling like gas/oil, very supportive seats, and a real trunk, the FR-S is a super fun DD. As others have said, you need to marry that girl your with. So few tolerate the smell of nostalgia (gas & oil) that vintage and high performance cars bring.
  9. Hi all, I just enabled a new feature that adds security questions to your accounts. The purpose of this is to secure your accounts against hackers. It's not likely that our system will be hacked, but, it will also give Admins the capability to validate your account in case you lose your password (or change email addresses and forget your login). If you have any issues, please let me know. Thanks. Mike
  10. I have these wheels with 205-50-15's, car has 1" lowering springs, no clearance issues
  11. I recently aquired this because I hate spot welds and I thought it might help out. I found this one at a great deal on Ebay. We will see... Air powered and has a rear lever for applying pressure. Adjustable depth, so you can just drill through the top layer(s)
  12. The wheels have landed!
  13. The Hagerty and other Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Value Guides - are all based on Pure Stock examples. As they left either the Factory or the Show Room Floor. If the subject vehicle isn’t pure Stock - the values there really don’t directly apply. They do however give us one benchmark to consider, but in general any modifications or variations reduce the market values. (of course we can all quote exceptions to any/all rules). If this 240Z had actually been Restored to Concours Quality #1/#2 standards - $45K to $55K today and sold to a private collector pretty quickly. As nice and beautiful as it is.. it is still a high end Enthusiast 240Z (Condition #3).. reach the right buyer that loves the Metallic Brown, loves the one previous owner status along with the original documents… it should bring $25K to $30K fairly quickly. It is in a good market area - Lexington is an easy reach from most of the Central and Eastern population. Start with a one owner 73 always garage kept and well cared for..with relatively low mileage (less than 100K), rust free body in very presentable condition - easy $18K to $21K.. then add a couple years work and another $30K to completely refresh it - you might be able to duplicate this one. $25K to $30K would be a bargain. I believe more people are starting to realize it at this point. I wouldn’t be afraid to put it on BAT with a reserve of $30K… I'll run it by a few people I know.. see if there is any interest .. good luck, Carl B. Oh... AGREED - good photos sell 240Z's - get it up on a lift and get good undercarriage photos.. very important..
  14. A 4-H Pig call winner, all the way from Nova Scotia! That's damn good Jim.
  15. Good news. We decided to pass on F1 in Montreal for Austin ZCon.... Double trouble coming at you from NS.
  16. Bad Dog Parts began selling frame rails to Z owners who wanted something stronger to handle the added stress of more HP, autocrossing or track events. The 2016 father-son 240Z team that won their class in the grueling Beijing to Paris race did so with a set of front and optional rears installed by the late John Coffey, Stacey Davis on GearZ TV installed our 280 rails because he wanted the extra strength to handle the supercharged Ford V-8 he was installing and hundreds of Z owners from Alaska to Florida, Sweden to New Zealand, Canada to Norway and Australia to England now run on Bad Dog Parts. So on a long drive last week I began to wonder just how many sets of rails we’ve sold since 2003 and was surprised to learn that Bad Dog Parts is now just thirty (30) sets of 240/260/280 frame rails shy of 2000 sold. To help us get to the 2000 set milestone we decided to offer everyone a discount and two lucky Z owners an opportunity to get Bad Dog Parts for free. Starting February 16th, both our 240/260 frame rails and 280 rails will be discounted 10% off the current selling price of $230 and $244, respectively. The cost for a single 240/260 or 280 rail is half the prices shown above minus the 10% discount. In addition, the set of optional 240 rears made for those of you who have added more HP, drive your Z real hard or just want a stronger chassis will also be discounted 10% . All of our produced parts costs include shipping within the lower 48 States. For those of you outside of the lower 48, we will get a shipping quote and add just the difference between a delivery in the lower 48 to one say in Canada, Germany or Australia, etc. and email you the added amount for your approval before shipping. Bad Dog will keep these prices in place until the 30th set (or 60th individual frame rail piece) is sold. So what about getting my parts for free ? There’s two ways that will happen. As each order comes in they will get a random number assigned from 1 to 60 with folks who order a set getting two numbers. Once all 30 sets are sold a number will be selected at an upcoming Z Car Club of New England gathering and the person with the winning number will have the cost of their frame rails refunded. The second way is when the 60th individual frame rail piece has been sold and the person who placed that order will get a refund back from Bad Dog just like the random number winner but with an added incentive. If say the person who ordered that 60th piece also ordered a set of seat brackets, optional rears, sway bar and jack plates, then the entire cost of that order will be refunded. The total for that order with both the discount and shipping comes to $673 (240 fronts & rear rails - $333, seat brackets -$250, sway bar plates-$35 and single point jack plates- $55). Two people will get free Bad Dog parts and the odds aren’t anything like the lottery where it’s several million to one. You needed the frame rails anyway so why not take a chance on getting them for free. I guess the worst case is that your Z would now be sporting new frame rails. And to all the folks who were order #54 or #1489 and made this possible, we at Bad Dog Parts truly appreciate your patronage and support. Thank-you.
  17. In an effort to rid my car of exhaust fumes coming in I disassembled just about everything related to the hatch vent system and removed the taillight trim panel to see what the taillight gaskets looked like. The TL gaskets are shot so I will be ordering new gaskets for them. The hatch vents were removed at some point in the car's history and re-installed using rivets which has bugged be ever since I bought it. With everything apart I realize I am missing the U-shaped clips that hold they hatch ducts against the body and the barrel clips the actually hold the chrome vent grilles. I have a good idea what the U-shape clips look like but need some measurements if anyone has one sitting around. Additionally, can someone confirm the order in which everything goes together? I think the ducts are installed in the hatch with their proper seals, the U-clip goes over the inside edge to hold it in place. Does barrel clip go through the U-clip and in to the hatch sheet metal or some other way? On the hatch duct work, my semi-rigid seals are salvageable but the foam gaskets are pretty much gone. I was planning to use some 3/8 self adhesive foam weather stripping to make a new seal. Are new ones available? If not, do you have a better idea than I have? Need to look at the rubber flaps on the inner hatch panel, I don't think they are thick enough. I will also seal the edge of the panel before I re-install it. The offending rivets holding the hatch vents in place. I already have new ones but debating on re-using some old ones I have since I plan to paint the car and would like to save my new ones for that. Pictures from Jim Arnett on the CT Z Car forums. Taillight panel off. Looks like it has never been off the car. Luckily there appears to be zero damage from contact or rust.
  18. Hi all, I wanted to let you know that we were able to raise enough money over the holidays to help a child in need. We raised $100 to buy a bike for a student to get back and forth between home and school safely. The program is called the "Dream Bike Program" and organized by Child Fund International. I am proud to say that we were able to help someone in need. It's our small way of making the world a better place. If you're interested in looking at the program, or just want to look at other fundraiser opportunities, you can find more information on our donations page: https://www.classiczcars.com/clients/donations/ Thanks again! Mike
  19. The old engine smoked like a 3 pack/day habit. The new engine is freshly rebuilt, has flat top pistons, and an N47 Maxima head. That's a nice combo. I am going to find out if there is a build sheet on it, too. My friend who led the swap thinks it has an interesting cam, too. As I was putting on the valve cover, I was stunned by the valvetrain. You could eat off it...if you didn't mind synthetic oil in your food.
  20. 3 likes
    Found at http://i.imgur.com/ASkFO6M.gifv
  21. When I tore my car down, the clips were in a patina finish . I suspect they were originally unfinished spring steel. I would opt for either a gloss black finish or clear zinc since most but not all the plated items aft of the firewall are clear zinc finish.
  22. My refurbished horns with new cadmium bolts.
  23. Hi Jim, fantastic! I agree drain tube , use original soft rubber one , it is very good. I too looked my spare parts , a metal crip which attaches two plastic parts is there, I confirmed, thank you. My wife said "is it for vacuum cleaner ? " I have to keep it inside my parts box ! Kats
  24. The first is a picture of the 00029 car in the 70's racing at Indianapolis Raceway Park and the other is in the early 80's the 00029 car in IMSA set up. The engine is out in the second photo and the springs all the way up for trailering but you get the picture. I recently tried to buy the car back with no luck. Enjoy the photos. jlp
  25. Takhli, I recommend that you get yourself a small granite surface plate for that kind of work. Haha! I'm no machinist or engine builder, and I have one. And despite the picture of that beautiful Starrett that you and I would both probably love to have, I'm not suggesting you need to spend big bucks. But I do think seventy dollars would be well spent to purchase a small import. For $67 plus shipping, here's a 12 x 9 x 2 thick example from MSC. "Shop or Toolroom Grade, 0.0001 Inch Unilateral Tolerance, Includes Certification": http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00150003 That would be large enough to do things like adjust thrust bearings and check main caps for flatness, etc. And according to your claims about your door, it would certified to be at least twenty-five times more accurate. Matthew, I'm a little reluctant to go into any of the other stuff above because the storm that I ignited seems to have passed and I certainly don't want those clouds to come back. But I wanted to explain that as a fellow Z enthusiast and member of this forum community, my loyalty is to you. With that in mind, I saw a questionable tool being used by someone in your employ for something important to you, and as your ally, I thought it would be a good idea to suggest the correct tool. It's easier to get good results using the correct equipment in good condition. It's the less common guy who can get the same good results from sub-standard equipment by making up for shortcomings with understanding, expertise, careful technique, and of course... Time. Based on the workmanship details posted so far, I suspect Takhli actually IS one of those less common guys who has a true understanding of the concepts behind what he is doing and can get the same results from sub-standard equipment. But even with that as a possibility, I just want to make sure you are getting what you're paying for. It's also potentially future trouble for other people trying to use the same alternative tools without having the understanding and expertise necessary to achieve the desired results. In other words, I don't think the phrase "Hey, take this over to that door over there and make sure it's flat." should become common workmanship instruction in the world of engine building. nor do I expect to find that suggestion in engine building instruction literature. But the bottom line is that I want you to be happy with what you get, and was just trying to help achieve that end
  26. Blue, you inspired me , still a lot of home works need to be done but I did this today, Test drive in north america on you tube. Much much better condtion than I used to show several years ago. This time the video was copied into a DVD. Enjoy ! Kats
  27. You're never alone if you're on this forum....
  28. Attended the 1st monthly meeting of the North West Arkansas Z Car Club (NWAZCC) Discussed the startup articles, goals, and positioning for membership in ZCCA. Highlight of the night, as Zup pointed out, was 2 owners of original Scarab's sitting at the same table. More to come....
  29. Cumberland Sports Cars Races May 17, 1970 Bob Sharp Car 33. New Datsun 240z Unofficial report he placed 2nd in C Production. (Any official results for these races would be appreciated). That is Fitzgerald in the roadster (DNF). Passing Porsche in front of official's area. Scoreboard in photo of Finish Line shows: (44) Bob Tullius (33) Bob Sharp (38) Jim Fitzgerald (4) Brian Fuerstenau Well past Porsche in first corner after Finish Line. Scoreboard in photo now is missing (38). Fitzgerald has dropped out. (4) and (96) move up. Bon Sharpe chasing down (44). Spoiler, cage, straight pipes, no advertising decals, and fender badges. It looks like the GT-6 of (4) Brian Fuerstenau in the background ~ 1/4 lap behind Bob.
  30. My better half just showed me this, thought I'd share with our southern neighbours! http://videos2view.net/stronger-beer.htm
  31. Here's the one I bought. Resolution on a PC is 1280 x 720 wich is pretty darned good. Waterproof as well. Works with Android 4.0 OS and above and Windows XP and above. Smart Phone must have OTG function. Don't know if it works with IPhone, because Apple has proprietary software. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-5-7mm-Digital-USB-For-Android-Borescope-Endoscope-Inspection-Waterproof-Camera-/162214076703?var=&hash=item25c4b6611f
  32. Wow. Thanks for all the info and encouraging words. I'm still planning on getting it on a lift to take pictures. SteveJ - Very cool that you remembered the car and have pictures of it at the show. I hope you can attest to the condition of the car to anyone that hasn't seen it. I'll look into Bring a Trailer. They picked up a Ferrari I was selling and the comments got out of control. There are a lot of "trolls" on there. I would really like to see the car go to a good home (I'm sure Mike would agree) and not to someone that is just going to try to resell it
  33. Check out this floor plan. Is this the ultimate garage? I would probably consider leaving a few open bays near the work area for friends, but otherwise it looks good to me!
  34. Here's mine. It's just about done. I wish it was bigger. Some cars will have to stay in the other garage - 1978 Datsun 620KC, 1975 Datsun 280Z, Fiat Abarth, Mini Cooper S, etc. I have a little more drywall and insulation to do. The left side is a barn area for the horses. The smaller room is a clean room for painting and doing simple jobs. I put 6 4' LED lights in the walls to make it easier to see when painting. The thicker concrete is for a 2-post lift. Chuck
  35. The above b&w photo is another interesting find. I have an arcade card, ( same size as a postcard with no printing on the back) of the very same photo of the above Z. However, at the bottom my has the following printing. "Datsun 240-Z Printed in USA Courtesy of Parker Advertising, Inc., Jason Hailey Photography." Bonzi Lon
  36. Garage area Work area Arcade area
  37. Today was engine swap day. Three very good and generous friends came over and made the day happen. I did more of tool fetching and parts running than I did turning wrenches. By the time we were done, the engine came to life. That was such a good feeling.
  38. One other detail for now... I don't have the flat tops for that car. HE has the flat tops for that car. And they're ON the engine. Modified flat tops with some custom improvements:
  39. Another homework ! Z432 and SP/SR Roadster 's metal cap has an elephant simbol on a decal already , now I am trying to find good picture of a plastic cap for S30 in Japan from late 1969 to 1970. 1971 and later have "OIL " with an elephant simbol , that is common I think . Kats
  40. you guys called it... damn kid i bought it from didn't even have a thermostat installed... it's an $8 part! i know AZ gets hot, but that hot?! installed the 180 degree + gasket, took it out for a cruise and held steady around 180 degrees with the electric fans on. ran much better, heated up quicker. no leaks thanks for your help!
  41. I run MK63-20S vented type calipers on all my cars. I have a spare NOS pair new in their boxes, but don't really want to sell. I might - however - be tempted by an interesting trade. Have you got anything that you think I'd be interested in...?
  42. That'll change if you ever do any house wiring.
  43. I bought my used 71 240Z in 73 for $4,300 and still own it today.[attachment=81385:IMG_0192. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  44. Well, it's been a while, but I want to revisited this subject with another possible solution to inaccurate fuel gauge readings. My gauge would read about three needle widths below the full mark after filling the tank (like forever), and would still have a lot of gas remaining when reading well below empty. I drained my tank of the 2.5 gals remaining and removed the sending unit. Outside the tank, I hooked up the sender to the wiring harness, grounded the earth wire to the chassis, and turned the ignition key to on. I then manually moved the sender arm through its full range of movement causing the pickup contact to slide on the resistance windings full scale from empty to full. The gauge readings remained unchanged as when installed in the tank. the reasons I narrowed my focus to the sender as the culprit are: 1. I removed my fuel gage and hooked up another spare gauge. There was no change in fuel readings. 2. The fuel sender sub-harness is new and properly grounded to the chassis. 3. The sender is NOS, and replaced a NOS sender installed a few years ago with the same issues. 4. The fuel tank has been restored to as-new condition with all of the correct fittings. I had previously spoken about possibly "bending" the float arm on the sender to change the gage reading. Well, after taking a closer look at the sender, I noticed a set screw on the pivot arm of the sender float arm. I also noticed that the contact on the sender was not near the top of the resistance winding scale when the arm was moved to full tank position. With nothing to loose, I loosened this set screw and rotated the pickup contact up to the top of the windings while holding the float arm against the full stop position. this set screw was then retightened and finger were crossed. Someone else may have already tried this, but, none the less, I'm feeling pretty excited about my discovery and anxious to try it out. Again, outside the tank the sender was wired up and grounded and, with the ignition switch on, the sender was manually moved to full stop causing the gauge to move to The full mark for the first time in years. Looking very promising, I reinstalled the sender and dumped the 2.5 gallons of gas back into the tank. I have always thought that, at the empty mark, there was probably 2 to 2.5 gallons of reserve fuel remaining, or maybe I read that somewhere. Anyway, almost afraid to try it out, I cranked up the engine to see if anything changed. The fuel gauge worked its way up to the empty mark and stabilized there with 2.5 gallons of fuel. Success, at least for now. I couldn't get to the gas station fast enough to try a full tank on my gauge. When the station pump clicked off automatically signaling a full tank, I switched the ignition on and the gauge indicator needle slowly moved to and stabilized EXACTLY on the full mark. I am definitely a happy camper right now. Since I don't drive my car frequently, something that I have to keep in mind is, the gage will move toward the half full mark more rapidly due to the shape of our gas tanks. The sender is mounted in the deeper (fatter) end of the tank. When the float on the sender arm reaches the halfway point, there is much more than half a tank of gas left, if that makes sense. Thereafter, the gauge needle will move more slowly to be consistent with the actual amount of fuel remaining in the tank. Also, something I failed to mention. With the sender out of the car, I used a Q-tip with some wax and grease remover to clean the resistance windings of any gas varnish buildup, and a piece of 220 sandpaper to burnish the pickup contact for a more positive contact. Not sure if this contributed to my success or not. I hope this may help those with similar issues. Dan Also, I plagurized a photo of a gas tank from one of siteunseen's posts to help with the above explanations.
  45. Progress: We went with Rustoleum Ceramic Enamel on the interior. This did very well in a '63 'Vette, so we're confident. Cleaned it out: Finished with the plugs: Painted the inside: And took a look at the parts for the intake setup: Not sure what to do about accidentally buying a three-tube fuel pipe / rail...
  46. Flashback to when the restoration program was in full swing: Source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1998-Datsun-240Z-Nissan-Brochure-mx583-14Y813-/290878018075?hash=item43b9ae521b:g:K0sAAOxyldpR-7w7
  47. Go pallnet for the rail. Get the 11mm oring style and buy stock Cressida injectors (198cc) for similar stock performance but will allow you to swap them out easily later if you upgrade the ecu. Clean, upgradable and affordable.