Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,549 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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just wondering if with my new 4 barrel swap i could keep the stock fuel pump, or if im going to need to go electric? any help would be appreciated, the motor is an L31 with a 390 holley and a cam.
Last reply by sblake01, -
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- 11 replies
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Question here guys, im newish to the site but not new to cars... my question to you all is i can find much on my new addition, i was told its a 76 280z stock engine block and head combo. The head is stamped E30 and block is L20 113021.... the trans is 7915213... now im just trying to figure out what year it really is and if it is really the stocker that came with the car. ... the car has a GS31010985 vin number and again i cant find anything on that as well... im tryin to do alot of configuring but ive ran out of places to go....:stupid: ive heard that this head is a one of a kind type thing and same with the block.... Is it really? HELP ME OUT GUYS!!!
Last reply by bigjohnsonzc, -
- 25 replies
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I was driving home yesterday and noticed very slightly that the gear switching was a little rougher than normal. Today I brought my car back to work because the mechanic down the street was going to re-check the alignment he had done for me a few weeks back. Anyways, when I was backing out of my house the reverse shift grinded...usually i can get passed that grinding sound by going to 3rd or 4th and then reverse. In this case it didnt work. The drive to work was rougher than usual, shifting to 1st or reverse (when needed) ... I am now at work with the car, and 1st gear is very STIFF to shift to; reverse will not go without the grinding noise. I am limiting the shifting, i…
Last reply by killerpoon, -
- 14 replies
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I had a loose stub axle so I took both sides out. Found two different axles in the car! The one on the left is stamped "J15" and has the backing plate for the lugs while the one on the right is stamped "F15" and has no backing plate. The one on the left had an unpeened nut at about 40 ft lbs of torque. The one on the right was the normal bear to loosen up after dremel-ing out the peened portion of the nut. The one on the right almost has too little rust... It gets worse, the one on the left had the threads shaved! There was no apparent use of lock-tight on the retaining nut. The spline count is the same on both axles as the flange which hooks to the half shaft a…
Last reply by GreenZZZ, -
I am going to drive a 1973 240Z tomorrow and I'm researching what to look for. After spending way too many hours reading threads on this site and others over the past month or so I think I understand what dictates the value of these cars but I am stuck on how to identify a flat top carb. I assume that flat top carbs are flat on the top but all of the photos I have been able to find have rounded tops. How flat is a flat top? Anyone have photos?
Last reply by steve91tt, -
Triple Carbs 1 2
by NismoZ- 19 replies
- 3k views
Hi all, I need a little help. I came across some 44 triple carbs and wanted to know if they would be too much for my stock l28 at the moment? I would really like to use them so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by NismoZ, -
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Is there valve seal clearance problems with an Isky Stage III (.490 lift) cam? Or is that the maximum lift possible without valve seal mods?
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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L28 dished f54 n47 head in a '73 240z I'm considering having the stock cam ground to stage 2 and putting in flat tops. My understanding is that I'll need to resurface the rockers and put in taller lash pads. Do I need different springs as well? Any other parts I'll need to replace? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by lmcguffin, -
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Looking for a kit to do the engine in the 73. I am thinking of getting a cam kit from MS. Already have a gasket kit, header, exhaust and rebuilt SUs. Not a cheap process. Anyway I found a spot called "rpm rons" that seems to have everything a fella could want. Sells a complete kit including timing kit and cam for about $650 or a lesser kit with out those goodies for about $400. Anybody here used that supplier? If so, how was your experience with them? Also, is there a better place to get a kit?
Last reply by geezer, -
- 19 replies
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Before we start, i'd like to mention that I have a 77 280z and I live in California. So i'm really looking for pictures of really clean FUEL INJECTED L28s... A better bonus would be one that has all the EGR stuff in it still because I live in the smog restricting state of CA. Thanks anyone.
Last reply by -speed240z, -
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I got some great help posting about electrical problems I had, and now actually have the car running...just not very well or very long! Basically I need guidance to help get the car running somewhat decently so I can actually drive it and hopefully address the many other issues that will need fixed. Here's some background to set the stage: My 17-year-old son LOVES 280Zs, so when he was out of the country on a mission trip I located a 1977 280Z that had been sitting for a while and picked it up for $500. I actually started it up and carefully drove it home (about 30 miles) pumping the brakes the whole time and avoiding main roads. Needless to say that he was in a state o…
Last reply by 77-Z, -
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Hi, I want to replace my cam on my 73 240z and want to know if it is possible to do it with the head still on the car. Just to preface my question I have done a head change before so I know about the wedge in the timing chain and torque specs and all. I guess my main question is can you remove the camshaft with the towers which will involve removing the 5 long head bolts and in the process not have to "re-torque the head bolts" in the typical 'center out' pattern. If anyone can help it would be great! Thanks, Mike
Last reply by orange 73,
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