Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About studioti

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 15938

  • Title: Registered User

  • Content Count: 66

  • Content Post Ratio: 0.01

  • Reputation: 0

  • Achievement Points: 530

  • Member Of The Days Won: 0

  • Joined: 05/06/2008

  • Been With Us For: 5207 Days

  • Last Activity:

  • Currently:



  • Map Location
    Southern California

studioti's Achievements


EnthuZiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. Has anyone ever used this website? I was able to put in my year make model and they actually have the same paint codes as in the Z gallery. which gives me some confidence that they can match it...? sort of?..haha http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  2. Thanks guys. I'm glad to see it wasn't just me having trouble. Looking at both 903 and 307 I would be happy with either. So does anyone here have a suggestion on where to find this paint? Nissan dealer? Thanks
  3. I would really like to paint my car the specific blue in this picture. I am referring to the S30 in the pic. I've been to the Datsun paint code gallery and can't really be definitive if it's 903 dark met blue. Thanks for any info.
  4. Awesome. thank you everyone for your info. especially those sound bites.
  5. FastWoman and Walter Moore, Thanks for the insight. I think i won't be totally convinced until I hear the exhaust I want in person. But just for sh*ts and giggles... who has a car that sounds like this?... AWESOME
  6. First my disclaimer: I've used the search tool for "head" "headers" "exhaust manifold"... and believe me i've read 4 pages of threads. My situations is as follows. I have a newly rebuilt F54 block flat top piston with n42 head (ported and polished). Stock cams. Stock exhaust (so far). Before i put the motor back into the car i'd like to finalize a decision on whether to put a header on or not. The main dilemma is the noise. I understand the performance gains, but i've read a few bits here and there about how people regret putting one on because of the increased exhaust noise. My goal: To have a street use, quick Z. To have an exhaust note that is sporty, but note "ricer" nor droning in the cabin. My Z is purely a weekend car, not a daily driver. Cars i've owned in the past that have these characteristics w/o the LOUD exhaust; BMW M3 stock, Honda S2000 stock....and yes, when i was 18 i had a ricer Honda Civic Si (headers, exhuast...the whole deal, but we were all young once...right?) Exhaust packages i'm considering: • MSA premium exhaust for STOCK manifolds. It has a custom y pipe and goes all the way to muffler--This to me seems to be the safest bet. • MSA 6-2-1 Header connected to MSA premium exhaust--This is definitely the most expensive • MSA 3-2 Header connected to the MSA turbo exhaust--This id definitely the cheapest Any thoughts, suggestions, concerns appreciated. Thanks
  7. REXZ you are correct. I found out that the student did most of the work and the sleeve in the cylinder is not what i'm looking for. plus they used a N42 block which is fine (according to this thread) but i have and want to use my F54 block. I'm going to make an offer for only the parts and hopefully go from there.
  8. I've read quite a few buildups now and still have one more question before i buy this short block. (BTW: my goal is to reach 250RWHP and 250LBTQ) Can i build this stroker in 2 stages? • 1st stage being simply to swap my stock block with the strocker block (use 2mm head gasket if i need to) and use my stock EFI setup? • 2nd stage once i have more funds to get my custom headwork done like port/polish, aftermarket fuel delivery and hopefully a Ford EDIS system.
  9. Thanks Oiluj, good point. I am a believer in making an all around balanced car. Some people focus so much on making the engine fast, but forget brakes, drivetrain and suspension. This ad just seemed like a good catch while its still for sale. On a side note, I dont plan on racing this car. Not on the track nor on the streets. I enjoy cars that move well, but i have no interest in racing testosterone loaded muscle heads or rice rockets on the street. I just want my Z to get me from A to B with a smile and a low end torque stroker sounds like the ticket vs a turbo setup.
  10. Thanks for all the advice gents. I will definitely not follow through with the deal if he does not have supporting receipts. I've been doing a lot of reading and it seems like he went the correct route with all the parts. The only thing he does not mention is the block. I'd prefer it to be an F54 since there is more support between the cylinder walls. Does anybody here have an opinion on whether or not it is a deal breaker if he DID NOT use the F54 block? BTW, he lives in Lake Forest which is the city i live in...i'll swing by and take a look this week.
  11. There's a craigslist ad near my house for a short block 3.1L stroker engine. Apparently its already built, i just need to add my head and some other bits. I have a 77 280z that's running well, but enough is never enough.. right? I already have a P79 in my car. I'd like to get some of your thoughts on whether or not i should go for this deal and what i will need to finish the swap. I've copy and pasted the text from the AD for easy reading: "What I have for sale is a 3.1L stroker short block. The engine started its life as a 2.8L from a 280Z. The block was bored and honed to receive 89.5mm 240sx pistons. The rods are from a 240z with 9mm ARP rod bolts. The crank is from a diesel maxima held down by ARP main studs. All components including pistons, rods, and crank have been balanced within .5 gram. All the engine needs is a head and a few other small items and your Z will be a tourqey monster. It will fit in any 240Z 260Z 280ZX or any other vehicle with a Nissan L series engine." So what do y'all think? He's asking $1000...I was thinking of offering $800 and see if he'll bite. Thanks
  12. I have XXR's 16x8 and i have 225/45/16 and they fit perfect IMO. I have also lowered the car from "quite a bit" to just an inch. If you are going with Eibach or Tokico springs, nothing will rub. But if you go any lower, you will have to roll your rear fender. its simple to do really. Here is a link to pics of my car with Tokico springs (approx 1" drop) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38202
  13. thanks all. btw, it is not a specific Datsun silver. i put my trust in the shop and told them i wanted a good simple silver that i wont get tired of in years to come. i'd still like to get legit chrome bumpers one day, but for now this will do. oh and new emblems would be nice.
  14. Here are a few more pics. The sun was at a weird angle, so i couldn't get some of the metallic to show. But here you can see the rear and some of what i did up front.
  15. Thanks for all the nice compliments. Will upload more pics soon. As for tire rub... i dont get any up front. In the rear i use to, but i rolled the fender lip and now it clears just fine. I've seen other people with these wheels run 225/50/16. If you do the math on that its a little too big in diameter than OEM. So i went with 225/45/16. The selection is a bit smaller, but you can still find great tires in that size.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.