madkaw

I just sent some out! My first plater sucked so I found another one . These folks look like they did better . Can’t wait to see the stuff in person . Quick turn around too!

Don’t think you can go wrong with the MSA header - it’s been the same design forever . Thick flange . NOT equal length , but that doesn’t amount to much as far as performance . My MSA does a good job keeping heat in the header with the ceramic coat . I don’t like this mismatched port shapes either .

I’m running a Kameari oil pump with no issues . Pressure and volume is quite a bit more than stock . Idle pressure is higher . You can’t trust a stock gauge , it reacts to slowly

Hole 3 significance ? Racer Brown? @siteunseen You would have to trick the EFI to give more fuel . Also have to trick the ignition not to time in too much or kapowy . Probably one of the worst heads for this scenario - pistons go without saying .

Don’t even know what to call the part , but it’s cracked and don’t know how important it is . Can I used an earlier metal bushing ?

Good advice Captain . The finger tight caps can be an issue

Question : did this cam turn freely in this head before ? Did you mark them before removal in order to get them back in proper placement? Have you checked the head for flatness ?

I wouldn’t be concerned about the second ring being a little oversized . Conventional thinking has changed about the gap size on the second rings over the years . Now the engineers like to see a larger second ring gap to make sure pressure doesn’t build between the two rings and cause ring flutter . I didn’t have as good of luck with my oversized rings . The box oddly said STD- .010 . The gaps still came in too big . Sounds like you have a winner !

I have also heard of his technique of using .010 over rings . I believe machinist told me that the one size over would still be concentric enough to do that . It takes quite a large gap before it starts affecting CR . I thought there was two specs . One was the range for the gap and the other spec was replacement range - like .039 or something . I ran large gaps on my last L28 build . All the rings were at the far range , but I ran it . Id say - send it

Straight vinegar . The pump helped by keeping things stirred .

Distilled white vinegar and a parts washer pump

maxima vinegar soup

So was there Nissan sedans in Germany ? Are they in JY’s there ? Is or was there a variant of the Maxima for that era ? That would be the head to get

Do you or did you have the Nissan Maxima over there ? The early 80’s Maxima used a 2.4 L6 . That would be the ideal head for your situation

I’m Another HF jack off. I have two Pittsburg aluminum jacks . I’m like Cliff, I just bought the 1.5 . It’s super light and fits anywhere. I also have the 2.5 which is also great . Even with my lowered car and a front spoiler , I can fit either one between the front tire and my spoiler and reach the center of the crossmember . Jack stands save lives , not the jack

Put your name on the list I guess. I’m not sure how much I will want for these . They will be cleaned , pressure tested , probably a skim cut to make sure all is flat and perfect . I might just have 44mm valves put in them all if they give me a break on quantity! I will be using at least one of them. So far they are all looking pretty good . Looking for the right machine shop to put the correct finish on the mating surface . They didn’t even offer a price with them pulling it ? I took a big gamble , but I might have got lucky .

It cost more to ship . I took a gamble and bought at core prices . First two seem good , haven’t got thru the rest yet

Paid for them Christmas Eve !

Been calling around looking for another Maxima 47 head for a project I’m doing for a customer . I called a a junk yard that showed one available . I asked the guy if he really had one . He said “ I have 6” . I about dropped my phone . I said , “ I’ll take 4 ! “ I also picked up a 4 speed auto from the Maxima . Might as well fill the pallet !

I wonder about my commitment anymore . My latest customer and project is kicking my old feeling arse. I might be hanging up my tools after this . I have aged 10 years in 2020 , and it’s a struggle more than a joy , though I still get some joy for completion of projects . I just want to drive and enjoy

I lived that life driving trains for a living . Spent holidays away from the family . Always glad to have a family to go home too. Merry Christmas

Thanks for any pointers . I could have used them on the last 71 I did . I also make the mistake of getting SS lines which are about impossible to bend . I think I’ll recommend the aftermarket ones . The customer is already upgrading the front brakes so maybe save a few bucks on the rears

Not many replies on this , but @siteunseen says the aftermarket works well? Have a hard time convincing myself to pull the trigger on the OEM units - EVEN when it’s not my money and my car . I have a customer that needs cylinders for his 2/72 . He’s asking my opinion on whether it’s worth it . I love OEM stuff because it usually is much better , but 400$ better for a set - ouch . I should just look away and not worry about it , but thinking that could by him a cam grind and parts . Again , what good is speed if you can’t slow down well enough . Ugh

It’s enough to fix for sure . I thought sharing numbers would be beneficial. to see the outcome of shaving a warped head

Correct on all statements as far as I can tell . It’s a budget build and I am presenting it that way to the kid . It should work out well enough to get him going . Over time there might be some wear issues , but I bet it will fair decently well. I will open up the small chambers to even it up. He has a complete running spare 83 ZX , but it’s so rusty it’s a hazard . It’s engine runs but has busted exhaust studs and whatever other unknowns for a 300$ car . I told him the next engine build can be better .