madkaw

MSA is sending me different gland nuts - probably as in the previous post - chamfered so they will fit .

Looks like I’m in the same boat with the fronts too tall for the gland nuts - 9/71 Almost didn’t get one out too! Well I didn’t have much hope for Zcon - but all hope is gone . Not enough time in the day

That’s what I thought -but wanted to make sure

Steel bushing guys - on top of strut piston ! Is that on correctly ? What is it’s purpose? My KYB’s do not have this . Anyone ?

I was referring to the steel bushing . My KYB’s didn’t have this . I don’t see it in the instructions

Freaking IKEA instructions - give me a break . what about the spacer ? I can’t find it in the instructions .

I would have been besides myself -pissed if I had to do that with a brand new set up (lock nut) . I will take your advise seriously . I wonder if my old KYB nylon lock nuts will work? I hope you do give them some feedback . That shouldn’t have been overlooked . Makes me wonder if they actually have a test vehicle to mock this stuff up on . I’d be happy with a T handle that fit the slot . Since there is two full turns of adjustment , having marks on a dial is kind of worthless. Kind of like a carb mixture screw - can’t remember how many turns out , so you dial it in while counting and dial it back out .

You say it wouldn’t get deep enough ? To fit under the strut tower cap ?

Ordered mine !

I’m hoping things settle down as far a as Covid by the time the show happens . It’s only a 4 hour drive for me , so I don’t have to stay anywhere on the way . I having booked yet because I think there will be openings at the hotel with all the cancellations. I am concerned about Covid, but I think with precautions the show could go on. Folks with preconditions should think twice about going anywhere . I’ll be masked up and ready and hopeful

Thanks for the feedback guys . I think I’m going to run it and acquire all the bits to redo the rear bearings . Maybe a winter project .

I reached out to someone that has a Z shop, and he said it’s probably fine for a street car. If I was going to race the car , I should look at it . I’d have to wait until I got it on my lift to get enough leverage arm to move that nut anyways . I don’t have a FSM - but my Hanes says 180-240lbs tolerances . Grunt !

Confirming info I found on this and my methodology . I measured about .0065 pulling in and out on the rotor assembly . Book says .0057 max . We all know how hard it is to torque these . Would you torque an older assembly the same as installing a new one if it didn’t make spec ? Trying to find my fish scale to measure that spec. I do have the slightest vibration I can see in the mirror. I’m pretty sure I redid these when I did my Wildwoods and that was 20k miles .

I only ran around like this for 1 day. modified original mount-so its on solid!

Wasn’t me . I made a thread here many years ago about this subject of dual oiling systems , but I think it’s lost . There’s been man stories of lost cams . With all the variables , it’s hard to attribute a wiper lobe to one thing . Spray bars -to me - are problems just waiting to happen

I’ve never lost a cam - but heard many stories

I would NOT recommend running both . Just stick with a internally oiled cam . It’s hard for the system to put out enough volume for both . I think the cam spray bar is ineffective when using both . The oil barely reaches the lash pads - at least the tests I did. Maybe with my Kameari pump it might work . Simple test is to drop out your drive spindle on the dizzy and drop in a drill with something to drive the pump . Get your mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up where you can see it . Fire up your drill and watch your pressure and your oil flow . I made a valve cover with a cut off top to watch without oil getting everywhere . Ive done this test using the modified valve cover while the motor was running . I wouldn’t , and haven’t started a motor without performing this test . I’ve have never lost a cam yet . I’ve had a Schneider , ISKY , and now a Bonk cam . And I use Rotella truck oil - nothing fancy

So I got my 12si alternator and didn’t have my mount modified yet , so I did the sketchy mount where you flip the clocking . The beauty is that it bolts right up with one spacer , flipping the adjuster bracket and a longer 8x1.25 bolt . Sucker charged right from idle , which I read might not happen . Might be the way I wired it , but it’s still a one wire set up basically . Drove it around and it showed 14.5 volts pretty consistently with electric fan and all my other goodies . Haven’t driven at night , but will try that tonight . I did get the proper mount modified , so about to try it . I’ll be watching for drains on the battery .

Yes - my 9/71 is titled 71 . Transition month for sure

well I was thinking about doing the AC Delco swap but using the 12S. I was going to ask for one of the mounting brackets from you @zKars, but now I read about the drain and wonder if I made a mistake . the original reason for coming to this thread was ask about the wiring. in every thread I've found on 1 wire, I've not seen a schematic. Sounds silly for a 1 wire, but I've read you should upgrade to 8 gauge wire directly to the battery? I've also read that these do better with the sense wire connected . I actually have read that 3 wire is best. How does this wire work with the original wiring running to the inside of the car and the amp meter? Any examples I can see? As far as why GM alternator. New sent to my house is 70$ -thats not a reman. Oriellys couldn't find a zx anywhere . I run electric fans and EFI and a 200watt stereo. I've read both the stories of battery drain and those that never have had issues.

Z car depot is correct . So you have the studs and you just need nuts . I like the copper ones ZCD sells . Or some good ole nut and washers

I run OEM studs . I’ve used the SS stud kit from ZCD - I believe - also . I have also used there copper flanged nuts - and they do stay tight . Tight enough to bring the stud out sometimes . But no washers to fiddle with .

Not sure that’s true . The position it sits below the floor hole is awkward either way. IMHO just a flip wouldn’t be much better . Angled upward towards the hole would be best . Deleted all together would be better . The other hose is available for the front vent . Even if that hose becomes NLA, it could be done easier them the top rear vent . I just did this job on a 71. Replaced all vent lines so it is fresh on my mind . The top rear vent is a mother .

You didn’t completely delete the vapor system because you left one of the vent tubes . The vent tube you left is the hardest to connect . Im also not sure how you delete all the vents and the fuel tank can properly operate and breathe. There has been members here that have deleted the vents and have had fuel cavitation from lack of air to vent the tank . One vent line might be enough and I think the OEM system seems too much . I also am glad you are making these and I am not nit picking your effort . I just did a tank vapor system with all new hoses and the one in the top back is the worse to do . That why I wish you left the other two . Good luck and thanks for your efforts

Yep - you deleted the wrong vents . You should have kept them two and deleted the one at the back of the tank . Nissan still sells a vent hose for the front vent and the side vent doesn’t need a formed hose . The vent you kept is he hardest one to duplicate and reach . Too bad