madkaw

Yep - kind of disappointing they didn’t get that right . My ST ‘s are a better fit , but they are not progressive.

The seller said he’s sold hundreds of sets . I asked on FB and heard back from several that they are running them with good results . I wanted to make sure I didn’t get the wrong part . I think they are too small in diameter for the perch’s , but I guess they seat good enough to run. They need to be at least 1/4” bigger .

That’s a stock spring .

I’ll just jump on this thread . Ordered new Votglands and KYBs for a 71 . Spring diameter is smaller by a good 1/4” - so they don’t want to seat a full coil in the perch - especially the top hat .

Thanks guys . I’m bending up a piece now that I will plug weld from the bottom and inside the rail ( outside wall) , and eventually will attach it to the inside wall with plug welds. I’ll post pics as I go along . I pulled out the nutplate and there wasn’t much to it or left of it . It came out too easy .

I’m trying to repair this frame rail around the sway bar attachment point . Trying to get an idea of the shape of the original nut plate that is spotted in. looks like a box shaped nut plate with maybe 3 sides ? The metal was rough on the outside rail , someone had did a bad patch job . Looks like about 3 spot welds on the bottom of the rail . Maybe the box had a front side that was spotted to the frame rail /engine side ?

Someone could make a fortune with their 3D printer and make that high beam switch on the column . It’s the part that fails the most . It’s the reason to do relays . Repairing them is tricky , not much to solder too.

I’ve got the parts covered because I have the best parts guy - Riley@lynchburgnissan . He knew the O-rings that it needed and I have them coming . I’m not sure I want to fight this battle or take it to the shop . After reading this thread I’m a little intimidated . Plus I have my hands full fixing many other things on this car . Come to think of it - I think I have a spare 4 speed myself . But swapping out tailshafts could be a gamble not knowing condition of it . Thanks guys - I need the help

That’s why I love this site - you guys have done everything on these cars and are a wealth of info. I have a customers car with the early 3 piece 4 speed that leaks out the gear shifter . The A looks different from the outside , but not any different from the inside ? The trans was rebuilt sometime in its life , but maybe they skipped this part ? I found receipts for the rear seal being changed several times in its life , but it had probably always been coming from the shifter . I’ve never even cracked open a trans before , so this seems very intimidating to me, so might need to source this . Then I wonder what trans shops will deal with this 50 year old trans . The trans shifts well enough and is quiet . Shifter is sloppy , but I know it’s an early 4 speed. The clevis fork around the shift rod needs to be shimmed up or something . The trans is out of the car so I can just carry it somewhere . Any thoughts on whether the 71A will be any harder or easier ?

Your pistons look just like mine with the dish . What CR are you shooting for and what CC chamber in the head ?

I think the kit was 2600 approx

It requires you have a diesel crank to offset grind and a block that will go to at least 89mm - I believe. Thats the way mine is anyway . You can pair is with any head with any compression - that’s a matter of preference . I think he can make a 3.0 out of any L28 block and crank . To get the extra .2 required a longer stroke . I sent my diesel crankshaft and a N42 block and $$$ and I got back all the ingredients to put one together . Rebello preps the block and crank - custom pistons and all bearings .

Regardless what you think of Pence , he basically disrespected every scientist and doctor at the Mayo Clinic by disregarding their policy . I expected this from Donny, but Pence - no . Once again the messages are mixed or contradictory from the WH and that why we aren’t doing better . Let’s tell the people what they can or can’t do for the betterment of their health , and do just the opposite.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.politico.com/amp/news/2020/04/28/mike-pence-visits-mayo-clinic-without-mask-215841 Really ?

Chickenman has done it I think , but he doesn’t get on here much anymore . Take the leap to programmable ECU - let the force be with you

So yesterday was first run . Didn’t even bother to install the hood , bumper or even the mirrors . Hell- didn’t even wash off the dirt . All I can say is WOW - amazing power ! The grunt starts so early . Never got over 5k and only poked at WOT a coupe of times . Not used to breaking tires loose so easily . Only got 25 miles on it , but I was smiling after I got over initial anxiety . Today I look it over and check things so I can play tomorrow

More truck pics

Wouldn’t care about the small amount for weight for the fact it saved this rare hatch. I weld filled all the holes .

Yes - 4WD . Not sure what you are asking .

Been starting on the 70 body panels . LOOK at all the freakin holes that Ziebart drilled in this hatch . There was 14 total.

What ? No love for my Datsun truck ? Just kidding . It’s one color now .

Mine didn’t follow the same CR since I am using custom JE pistons . I figured a bit over 10:1 at this point , but I think I’ll be happy with that. I wanted 11:1 , but I would have to shave another 40 thou of the head probably . My MN head is still in machine shop jail.

I personally think Chris has the right color for your car . Bronze Grids on black !

Is that because you can roll it back and forward without losing tension? Exactly . It’s hard to land right on the valve opening sometimes based on the valve spring tension- but if you miss , you just roll the engine back . Movement is instant thru the chain assembly . You can also turn the motor using the cam bolt - which also simplifies things

Getting close to starting again ! Love the Kameari tensioner set up . Makes life a lot easier to degree your cam