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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. Buy a wideband O2 sensor and install - it will make life much easier for you
  2. Might read this thread - might help https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42960-triple-mikuni-thread/
  3. So rich you are washing the cylinder walls down and causing oil consumption? Gas mileage bad? Looks like a bit of both fuel and oil, but mostly carbon if it brushes off that easy. Have you checked your TPS setting? Might need to take a cruise somewhere and shut it off at cruise and then pull the plugs . Don’t let it idle before shutting it down. Everyone should invest the 200$ for a complete wideband set up. Takes a lot of the guess work out.
  4. I remember - vaguely- when I had a similar situation . It was something about the long jet assembly was no longer available but I had a carb with the longer ears . I believe I just redrilled the ears to the proper height to match the pivot point of the shorter jet assembly! So I just moved the holes up for the pin and adjust
  5. Oh no - I can’t be that lucky . Machinist finished up the parts and when I got home I realized he scratched the head surface with his valve seat tool. I drove home 25 miles to realize he didn’t give me the actual valve he touched up- left it in the table. Then I stared at the valve seat and realized he ground it wrong . Plus I see a huge scratch on the head surface . I’m not even mad though- it was one of those days . My truck started to run bad in the way home - dying every time I stopped . Can’t be mad at my machinist either . He’s 72 and nearly died a month ago from a broken stent in his leg. He’s hands shake pretty badly , but he presses on . He was finishing up the head as I waited and I think I rushed him . He feels bad and wanted me to bring it back this evening . Looks like I might have to adjust my CR calculation . It will take at least 15 thou to clean this up . Maybe it will take most of the dents out too -lol.
  6. Well to make feel even better today my machinist told me that the rods definitely should be resized . After torque was set and measuring they were off slightly . I won’t make that mistake again - lol
  7. I think most build you can get away with just throwing in bolts , it just wasn’t my day . And there’s no true evidence that the bolts did anything to the motor, could have been a chunk of something that ate the bearing What’s weird is my machinist kind of gave me a nick name of ‘lucky’. Can’t tell if he was being facetious or he was saying I’m lucky to have so little damage . One of the machinists there was admiring the L’s many main journals . “ they really got that crank locked down”, is what he said .
  8. Any change in the bolts could be a change in the pilot center and cause the shells to off ever so slightly. Maybe okay for DD , but I should have known better for a performance build.
  9. I think I have a complete set. You are needing clamps for the OEM braided hoses correct ? The 77 I redid for someone I had to replace all his hoses which are smaller in diameter because of the lack of the braided cover. A shame since they are in very nice shape. PM me
  10. What I heard what that #5 main I believe . It hadn’t spun yet but was ready. Or - what I heard was the piston hitting the head around the damaged areas. The holes left raised areas around them on both the piston and head. There simply wasn’t enough clearance and they were slightly tapping each other as the engine heated up and things expanded. Another lesson I was schooled on by my machinist. Don’t just throw new rods bolts in - ARP or otherwise without having rods re-sized a the big end. This was a budget build on the short block, but at 10$ per rod I got to cheap and that could have also caused premature wear. It was more ignorance than $$ , but don’t have that excuse anymore .
  11. It’s magnetic . I’ve seen enough welding splatter to know that it will burn into anything. I’m usually going a mile a minute in the shop , so I must have gotten careless . Ive built a rotisserie and numerous other things while I’ve had this head . I was waiting on a cam before I buttoned it up. Just bad luck. I at least salvaged the engine. Another lesson learned .
  12. Well - it’s serious . Weird stuff , but I will take all responsibility. #5 main journal bearing was going away quickly, which contaminated others like #6 rod. It would have to be dirt or a shavings I missed maybe. The pics of #4 piston is something different . Somehow there was/is welding splatter balls in the intake runners of the head. One of these that was stuck/melted to the runner wall let loose and thus tearing up my piston , head and a valve seat on the way out . The head has been sitting around for a while , but the odds that I was welding close enough with enough splatter to fly into the runners is mind boggling- but it must of happened . Unless it happened at the machine shop and didn’t see the splatter . Just weird . Only good thing out of this so far is I have found no real damage from detonation running 11.5:1 . Everything is at the machine shop getting touch ups
  13. I just pulled the same engine apart that had been sitting in someone’s garage for over 10 years on a stand . I was pleased to see these cylinder walls
  14. Some folks just use a starter punch and put dots on the caps . It doesn’t take much to mark them so you don’t have to wack them hard or anything . They won’t wash away either
  15. View Advert P79 head Parting out a zx motor. I don’t have a use for the cylinder head . Looks very clean . Cam and rockers are nice . I have no history on the motor but what the seller told me - which is that it had 110k miles and was running . Advertiser madkaw Date 09/28/2019 Price $250.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  16. madkaw

    P79 head

    Time Left: 12 days and 16 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Parting out a zx motor. I don’t have a use for the cylinder head . Looks very clean . Cam and rockers are nice . I have no history on the motor but what the seller told me - which is that it had 110k miles and was running .

    $250.00

    - US

  17. Back off a degree at a time until you eliminate the detonation . Sounds like your valve guide seals need replaced . You can research on how to set limits on your vacuum advance . You want to able to limit its travel and then try using it again. Also a thought. I run a MSA header and noticed early on that the exhaust noise in the header sounds rattling, like detonation , but it’s not . I was always suspicious until one day I got my timing way off and I heard real detonation . I then knew that there was a difference and he previous rattle was from exhaust
  18. No way to know until I look . Anything is possible.
  19. Get rid of the vacuum advance and dial in 18 degrees initial timing . Take it for a spin .
  20. Well I’ve developed a noise down below. Not sure what’s going on, but more than likely it’s time to pull the pan . Runs good, but maybe a rod didn’t like the initial abuse. It sucks , but this was a budget build so I can’t expect miracles . Might get lucky and find something came a little loose, but nothing wrong on top. The head is what I’m worried about - too much time invested there. The short block is stock . My helper is available by the end of the week to give me a hand for whatever I decide . I was planning on swapping transmissions anyway, but now it looks I’ll be pulling everything . This kid is good and we will have it on a stand in less than 3 hours . Takes a little pain out of the sting when you have a sidekick that can throw down a Snap on wrench faster than you can. I really want dyno numbers on the stock flat top so I and going to continue this mission before dropping in the 3.2- besides that short block is not finished. I’m determined to see 200 rwhp with his combo.
  21. The unique part of the sale of my engine is that he got to ride in my car before the purchase. The way his eyes lit up during the test drive I knew it was sold. He couldn’t believe it was so fast( relative term for sure). As he left I told him(27 years of age and his first manual trans car) that he had more engine than car now - so be careful. I wish I knew the guy that sold him his car so I could forward him these pics . There’s no denying the facts here. And yes I got a good price and labor to install and tune his car. Like I said - he has more engine than car now in many ways $$$$$$ .
  22. My BHJ damper is like that
  23. Large chamber. I believe there are 4 versions actually . This is the open chamber version
  24. So what dizzy are you running and what’s your timing?
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