madkaw

I have turned into the Datsun tutor for a young lad(17”) Alex that has bought a 81zx project. The motor was half apart and the guy he bought it from was not the wrench on this car , just an owner . Anyways , the block and head were together in the car , but no induction or exhaust - that was all laying in the car . Dirty valve train like the valve cover was off for a long time . It’s been sitting for years . Took the head off to inspect and clean . Mating surface was flat . Cam is a CWC core and seems to be a stock replacement . Engine did turn over fine . He brought me the head and I broke it down to be cleaned and to do anything else necessary for him to have a runner . I sent it to the machine shop and told them to check it out . Valve tips looked molested already like someone already did a valve job. Got it back from the machine shop and they had taken .007 off the mating surface to clean up pitting and did a valve job . I started reassembly to check wipe patterns and I couldn’t get the cam in . I admit that when I took the head apart I did the quick and easy and removed towers and cam all at the same time , so I probably missed the cam was binding . Got out my straight edge out and found the top surface out of flat . This is where I realized I was dealing with a previously warped head . Shame on me and the machinist for not checking for time . In all fairness , who know if this shop ever saw an old Datsun head . What to do now . The kid had.230$ in this head that the cam won’t turn . Took it back and head top surface skimmed . He said he took .017 off the middle and .002 off the sides? Not sure how he come up with that , but it’s flat and the cam turns perfectly . A quick wipe check showed the wipe pattern that will work , actually pretty well centered . I imagine that was because they dressed the tips of the valves . I also questioned the tipping of the valves and they assured me that they didn’t go too far which would compromise the hardness level. So what happens to the combustion chambers ? It’s been shaved , so what’s the CR now ? How far off will they be from each other since the head had been warped ? See my findings . I guess I have some grinding to do

93

Can’t believe anyone could support a leader/boss that doesn’t attend any meeting about the most critical aspect of his job , but tweets orders from the gulf course . It’s freaking mind boggling

Recently sent an A trans to Aussie land to get fixed . The Datsun guy there thought the USA was in a sad place . He didn’t like the lock downs, but thought USA looked uglier without . The world is watching us .

Steve’s right on. You fixed the wrong thing first . Relays would make your headlights 10 times better . I upgraded to Cibie headlight lens , but also relays . Both are a great improvement , but relays are the biggest improvement and save you headlight combo switch and your fuse box too

Very fun. The run 226/226 was 38 degrees timing I believe . Normally I run 36 max .

MN head is a good choice , might be a bit harder to obtain . Try the used car parts websites that search salvage yards . Someone has one laying on a shelf . Bribe someone out west to pull one off of a Maxima . Probably about the best upgrade for an older second gen E-88. No seats to change . Has the bigger exhaust valve . Put the bigger intake valve , do a little port work and vroom . Liners flow just fine . Better casting then the older heads . Isky springs are fine . Don’t need Manley valves , just Nissan intake valves at 15$ each new . Get a new spray bar

Dynoooooooo

I dealt with this years ago . Talk about a bitch to figure out why the motor ran bad when it got hot . The hose would collapse under the heat and kink . I can’t remember where I bought it from , but I thought it actually cam from Z Therapy . Z car depot sells some stuff that ain’t worth a damn like their gas tank J bolts .

I plan on finding out . If anything - it will look cool

LD runners are big - 35 MM. Also the longest of the L motors at almost 13”

Been working on a replacement for years - lol. I knew this intake would probably be a restriction - especially for NA . I have a Canon manifold that has been taper bored and drilled for bungs . Plenum needs to be welded on . Might use same throttle body for now . I also have a diesel intake getting converted to a manifold style fuel rail and injectors.

Sure - the thread topic is misleading at this point 3.2 L N42 block prepped by Rebello. 10.5:1 CR - 89mm bore kit . Which includes diesel crankshaft , Eagle rods , JE Pistons. He basically sent me the prepped parts and I assemble the motor . MN47 Maxima head with 44/35 Manley valves . Steve Bonk 535 lift cam , ISKY springs , retainers . BHJ damper . Kameari tensioner kit. Using a stock N42 intake with a 240sx TB . ECU is Megasquirt 3 - full sequential 42lbs injectors . D-585 COP ignition . The stock manifold was choking the engine and power started dropping at 5800rpm . Still was making 200 HP around 7k rpm . Torque peak was 4300 - again early , but the N42 has 31mm runners , so sucking through a straw.

Made it to the dyno today . Pretty happy with the numbers , but was happy before I ever saw them. The car is just a beast and fun . Did 226 rwhp and 226 torque . My stock n42 is choking the motor , but hopefully be solving that soon.

I have to disagree with this philosophy. There are many that know in the heart and mind Trump is lying or is wrong , but “out of respect” for the president they will just follow along. He very much pushes the narrative and direction of the country . People are gullible - it’s been proven over and over again in world history.

Many options ! MN47 head is a great alternative to a late E-88 head . It already has the good seats and a 35mm exhaust valve . If I had my rathers - I’d invest in a MN head . Drilled cam is better than spray bar . Closed chamber head - better for detonation . Smaller chamber for CR . Go with 44 mm intake valves L24 block can go with L28 pistons if you find the right machinist to check wall thickness . If not - go 1mm over on the bore . camshaft ! ISKY cam 490/290 or Steve Bonk cam 530 lift . I think the aftermarket pistons come with reliefs , so a little more room for valves .

When numbers get to 1/2 million deaths the circle will get closer . Maybe then people will understand? Watched a great documentary on the Spanish Flu. The similarities are striking . Another time when politics got in the way of saving lives . If this strain was as bad as that one , we would be in worse shape yet. I feel for the kids that grow up in this generation and have to put up with our selfishness . If we were in an actual Cold War with China or Russia and we knew they started this virus , would we still be insistent to protect our rights to choose to wear a mask ? If the government said it was our best defense against the war , would we help our brothers out ? Makes me wonder .

What a shame . It’s a pretty piece , but if it don’t fit , it don’t fit . Not sure how would even modify it correctly for a lefty . Maybe your fix was about it .

These floor pans from KF match up with the tunnel really well. No need to slot floor pans and a BFH , they fit .

Why so few drives ? Z’s want to be driven !

I have a 12” disc table sander - HB special. Good sander for most projects

Here’s my remedy - I don’t recommend this to anyone as a disclaimer . You will notice the one pic showing the distinct bulge from the weld bead . The fit is so tight that it makes a difference . I’ve grinded enough welds to feel confident for myself - but won’t tell anyone this is the fix . Even with this “fix” the cartridge still stands tall in the housing .

The rears weren’t the problem for me - it was the fronts

Not really - by Koni . I resolved it myself . I did some sanding on the welds on the bottom of the strut cartridge so it would drop in further into the strut and I got a few more threads on the nut . I still didn’t make the minimum mm stat. I felt the gland nut was secured enough for me . This was only the fronts . The backs dropped in with no issues In conclusion I was told that something was odd about my strut housings , though others had the same issue . MSA said they provided all three series of struts . I bet there was more than three versions . They wanted me to try and grind the inside of the strut tubes at the bottom of the strut ? I call it BS , but maybe I don’t know what I’m doing