Yarb

IMO this is AI playing a game.

Most of the time a lot of those bad reviews come from folks that don’t know or have no experience installing piston rings.

Need more of a descriptive finding. Does it crumble in your hand like sand or is it old dry rubber?

That wasn’t the case for me when I brought my 78 back to life. Ran it from 5 gallons or less. Primed right away.

So you used the original ignition switch hardware and just replaced the electrical piece that attaches to the harness?

So did you replace just the electrical part and save your keys?

That’s a first for me to hear. Not sure how that explains the heat problem you are describing?

Chances are it’s leaking on the speedometer housing itself. It’s been a minute but if it’s like the manual transmission there’s an O’ring and a seal like @siteunseen mentioned.

The speedometer cables are the same. If you don’t know or haven’t heard, Go to “CarPartsManual.com”.

I was given one of those years back for Christmas! That went straight in the can!😂

When I removed mine they were glued to the door itself. There wasn’t any glue where the push pins are located.

In other caliper rebuilds mainly on the Toyota big brake option for Z’s. I went and found plugs that would block ports that were letting air disperse in order for the piston to blow out. If I may ask have the pistons been removed?

There is still fluid in that assembly. Did you blow everything out with compressed air?

Did you open the bleeder??

Might want to ask Cody if he had a few parts he wanted to slide in on the Old man!😂😂

Brake line is quite different than the bleed system. IMO go back and do it by having that bleeder open. You might be going down a rabbit hole here.

Was the bleeder open when you tried to push the piston in?

I believe that’s what he was referring to.

Under the “choose options”, Can you tell us which one you chose and why? I see they will send you up to 3 different samples.

You can still just use the electrical component itself. Once you receive it you will understand what I mean.

@Matthew Abate Just went to the website and for my 78 model there are a ton of options. How were you able to narrow it down for your car on what to order?

IMO, The ignition key should not be your problem. It merely turns a blade that connects to the ignition switch module. I would just order the switch itself which mounts to the back side that’s held in with two small screws. You are going to end up with mismatched keys. Original set to unlock the doors and the new set to start the car. Just a suggestion

The ZX has a 3 groove pulley. Third groove was for the power steering pump.

The oil pressure switch on the 78 280 was the only model that had that configuration.

Pretty cool. A bit pricey