Yarb

You may have read about it in another thread as far as a good test for having a vacuum leak. A good test is while it’s idling, begin to unscrew the oil filler cap. If it starts to stumble a bit that’s a good sign of not having any leaks. @Dave WM passed that on while I was reviving my 78.

I originally bought a set of stainless lines. Couldn’t keep them from leaking. They sent me a set of steel lines. Not great but was able to stop the leaks. Not saying that’s your problem but was a pain for me.

I have the same setup except I have 240sx calipers on the rear No wilwood valve

Contact 123, Good folks, Will answer your questions.

Tried to reac S30 driver multiple times, no luck.

Obviously you have a new housing on the way. Install the factory style unit and call it a day. Way too many variables to continue to diagnose what actually happened. IMO

Let me know if you need anything

You will not have an issue from my past experience swapping my 78 280 to manual. The only issue I had was bypassing the neutral safety switch which basically required a jumper wire to bypass the relay. I can tell you that removing the dash will save you a ton of heartache. Did mine with the dash in and later on in my build the dash had to be removed for other reasons. Bottom line carefully remove the dash. Let me know how it goes. You may also may have to trim the forward part of the tunnel. You can figure that out when you get to that step. What a difference in performance you will find right away. Any issues post here.

I believe he’s stating that the gauges are too tight to go in the dash.

Still available through Beck Arnley if you can find it. Try Rock Auto.

Do some in depth research and you will find they are a hybrid between Mikuni and Webber. Datsun Spirit swears by them. I have a set of 47mm carbs ready to be tuned.

Take A look at “OER” carbs from Japan..

Toooo Much Grease on the bottom perch!!

Where are you located? Tension on the belt is key to create bearing noise. Do you have a parts house where they test alternators?

Just a thought, Not trying to wear the black hat by any means. When you removed the belt it took 4 variables out of play. Alt. Water pump and fan clutch, and the harmonic balancer. My suggestion would be to remove the alternator, take it to a parts store where they offer free testing. Chances are the alt. Is good, but does it make that same noise during testing. If so you found your culprit and feel more comfortable moving forward purchasing an alternator. My two cents on diagnostics. Doesn’t cost you anything for peace of mind. You’re removing it anyway.

Good deal, Just received mine to replace the aftermarket seals I bought in a kit. My driver side door is good the passenger side is binding worse than yours. Congratulations

If the belt is off that means the fan is not spinning. May have an issue with the fan or water pump. @Zed Head brought up a good point. You are actually deleting 4 items

Let us know how it works with before and after pics!!😂

That’s awesome, Glad you found the problem.

I understand Courtesy Parts has been brought up many times here. I myself had used them in the past before I found a way to avoid shipping etc. and saving money as I mentioned previously. Did they have a hoard of parts that were not available within the Nissan global warehousing? My Nissan dealer was able to search the US and Canada.

My hearing is just fine, I’ve found the art of troubleshooting involves, What was the last variable that was manipulated or replaced. From there check the obvious external moving parts. Once those have been nullified continue to dig deeper one step at a time. Going down rabbit holes is not productive IMO.

That should be fine for the panel removal. Removing handle is the trick. Rotate the door handle until you see the back side of the pin and push it out with a pic of your choice where you don’t rip the vinyl. I place quite a bit of tape around the handle itself so you don’t damage the panel. If your interested I can send you a pic of the tool that doesn’t work that was made for older domestic cars.

Sounds like a pulley bearing. Does your’e ac have an idler pulley. Need more pics of the front of the motor. Left,Right, and top. Could be the water pump as well. On the water pump the seal normally fails before the bearing allowing coolant to reach the bearing. Alternator bearing as well.

Thought you were aware of “CarPartsManual.com”. If you build a good relationship with the dealer you can get a 20% discount and you don’t pay shipping costs. Been doing it for years with my local dealer. Keep in mind this was one of the few parts still hanging around that still fits later model year Nissans. I generally search the manual, google that number. Most times that p/n has been superceeded. The dealer will tell you that and let you know if it’s still available.

Those look new