Yarb

Was the bleeder open when you tried to push the piston in?

I believe that’s what he was referring to.

Under the “choose options”, Can you tell us which one you chose and why? I see they will send you up to 3 different samples.

You can still just use the electrical component itself. Once you receive it you will understand what I mean.

@Matthew Abate Just went to the website and for my 78 model there are a ton of options. How were you able to narrow it down for your car on what to order?

IMO, The ignition key should not be your problem. It merely turns a blade that connects to the ignition switch module. I would just order the switch itself which mounts to the back side that’s held in with two small screws. You are going to end up with mismatched keys. Original set to unlock the doors and the new set to start the car. Just a suggestion

The ZX has a 3 groove pulley. Third groove was for the power steering pump.

The oil pressure switch on the 78 280 was the only model that had that configuration.

Pretty cool. A bit pricey

Guess I got into the game late…🤦‍♂️

78 280 had rubber from the factory

@jfa.series1

This is what is so fantastic about this site and the rare types of parts that are needed and pretty much unavailable to purchase new. Thanks to everyone for helping to keep these Ladies on the road!

What condition is your EFI harness? Have you replaced all of the connectors? I fought it forever. Finally reworked and soldered each connector, cleaned each contact and was amazed.

Acorn nut is no longer needed. @jfa.series1 was able to source one. Many thanks my friend!

CarPartsManual.com

Can you only imagine how jacked up that would be trying to align the drive train.

Go to their website if you haven’t already. I’ve used them and it is ceramic coating. They have a great video. Good People.

IMO I don’t think so. Others will chime in. Pressure doesn’t change under load. I think you have issues you haven’t looked into yet.

There is no load on the engine

Not sure of the correlation between your transmission and fuel pressure for what you’re experiencing

Cheaper to ship it also. I’d go with a replacement unit and be done IMO

Was there a spacer in the hub along with the bearing? They are stamped a,b, or c according to the thickness.

That’s exactly what everyone needs to do.

IMHO, That is not a good idea moving forward. You won’t be able to access all points of concern if it’s not on the bench. I personally have gone through a couple of the “B” series and access is critical. You’re already half way there removing the shaft. Not to mention you’re going to have to rotate the tail shaft back and forth to remove and install. Personally I wouldn’t do it in the car. My 2cents.