Yarb

@solly I don’t believe you answered my question about the check valve. Trying to offer known problems that cause what you are describing

Is that a reflection on the sugar scoop or are those brush marks?

WD 40 will swell the rubber IMHO.

@mayolives do yourself a huge favor and research the disc I’m talking about located on the the end of the pushrod inside the booster. There are rebuilders for that booster.

That’s good advice but you didn’t warn him about the disc dropping to the bottom of the booster.

@jfa.series1 I need to be schooled AsWell!!

Did you remove the check valve on the booster vacuum line at any time? If you installed it backwards that will cause the problem you are describing.

It’s truly a journey. Been there and it takes awhile

You are correct… That pan is thick aluminum and the baffles inside are just amazing. Not sure I will make it to the track. It’s a stage 4 build from Datsun Spirit. Eiji did an amazing job.

What threw me off is when he reffered it to a belt.

My aftermarket did not include one or referenced it. That might be a Wilwood exclusive. Personally you wouldn’t know when the rear seal is going bad. Probably would drain inside the booster IMO

Try the Wix filter. I had no issues on my 78Z. I did install a S30.world tank as well.

Are you running the Bosch factory pump? It worked perfectly on my 78 280. You could have a tank problem with the strainer. There was a good reason why they went with the 3/8 input to the pump and 5/16 output.

You will probably bee surprised how it pops out. I’ve removed quite a few. There’s also a seal inside the cog shaft that prevents oil going into the cable. The ring and seal are still available.

Your prying on the captive nut not the cable.

https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-Complete-Line-Filter/dp/B000CSEUPG This filter worked perfectly for me. Changed over to Wix when the Fram was no longer clear. Give it a shot.

I assume you are not using a factory pump.

As @Zed Head said, pull the spayed ign. Off the terminal and measure the voltage. Black to Gand and red on the spade turn the key to start.

I think you are perfectly fine

Try threading the cable back on and use a small block of wood and a wide blade screwdriver and carefully apply force on the coupling on each corner. Might just pop it out.

That O’ring on the external assembly has probably dried up and that’s your issue.

Join the club and be a subscriber and that won’t be an issue. It’s keeping this site alive at this point. IMHO

When you say G3 are you referring to the fram?

That duration of 222 IMO is not aggressive enough to even worry about.

I have a 78 as well. My car currently has the dash out and I can tell you there aren’t any relays behind the glove box. Have you referenced the FSM? There are 3 locations the relays are located. Engine bay housing rh fender, under dash LH side of steering wheel. 3rd location rh side near the fuse box. Someone here on this forum can point you directly to the location.