dutchzcarguy

And may i ad... They not only look and drive well, when i hear some people of "other" brands of cars complain about unreliability... oef... I drive a 240z now for over 20 years and the only thing that broke was.. the battery! hahaha.. and a rear muffler, it exploded when i was driving and my gaspedal was stuck under the mat! I put the ignition to "garage" and free'd the pedal, then, as i'm still driving i took it to "on" Hahaha Klaboem!! (I knew that would happen but not that hard!! ) The rear muffler (was very old and rusty) Had a BIG hole in it! Later on i installed a 260z rear exhaust and it's still under the car.. Something else, if i could get a Porsche for my Z.. i don't think i would want that.. engine is on the wrong place hahaha!! Also i want to be a Datsun guy not a Porsche guy... if you know what i mean..

3 pages about a horn not working.. Does the Horn make Horny sounds yet? 😉 Get a good battery, it uses a lot of juice!

Sounds like the keylock switches are not wired correct, on "START" the fuelpump is activated? (as on "ON" ?) and is the ignition on "START" as it IS on "ON"? (Obviously you got ignition on ON.. as it runs..)

It's a very nice site but.. it's not complete, (what is..?) Euro cars are different.. so i have a orig nissan datsun 280zx 2+2 1979 and has a orig N42/N42 engine combo.. It does according to the site not exist.. but it does.. No offence but the site is for US cars only. (I'ts like the only year for a datsun 260z is 1974.. NO!! the datsun 260z was build for europe till 1978! We never had the 280z it does not exist in europe, the ones that are here are (grey) imports from the usa. We got the 280zx in 1979 as the follow up.)

So it's a 280zx block with flat top pistons, N42 (My 280zx has a N42/N42 block/head.) I would like to know if there are orig. 280zx engineblocks with flat top pistons in it? Could be possible there are some on different markets... (Next winter i take my 280zx engine apart for new seals and hoses, it does not leak but it's 42 yrs old.. then i know if the euro / dutch version has flattops.

Mine was broken (the rubber) and as a cheap repair i once welded a u type of metal under it with a fat piece of rubber in between... HAHAHA after 10 years it's still on there !!! 😂

not.. They make it for probably 15 bucks or less.. so to expensive. i use my eyes.. to look for the center haha..

Nice battery tray! Btw.. i remember that i took it also out of my 240z and later on i screwed it into place.. not original i know but it's handy.. especially when i restore the car for the third time in about 2-3 years i guess... (hope..) (will be my second restore of this car)

The bolts are very strong type and fit very snug.. a bit of (blue) lock-tite can't hurt it.

Yes, so it's important that you use good parts.. I've done this long ago, used original Nissan/datsun parts that don't fail after a few month/years.. There are a lot partsstores few are having the right stuff.. why? because people want it cheap.. not the best solution..

Take it to someone who can balance them.. i think the best solution.. (if there is no play in anything in that shaft.)

Why would you change the drivegear? You only have to put in the km gauge for the mls gauge (there are different drivegears but not for that, they are for if you install other diff's or tire hights.. (wheeldiameters!) Then.. That i don't know but.. if you install the euro Fs5c71B (Like i did.) you have to convert to the type 2 tunnel console! and take a small piece of metal out of your tunnel otherwise the shifter will hit it..

Looks very good, well done!

I got some König seats for my 240z.. (bought them year ago) they where also used original in rally cars, ive seen them in 240z of the 70's in black/yellow! i got a red car so red/black fits nicely!

If i need that i would first ask the firms that provide parts like the battery, haven't done that lately.. I think that there are a lot of people thinking of something that makes them rich haha.. Maybe you could print some change say dimes and quarters? 😂

First, thanks for digging in to it.. Then, I think the TPU is not very extensile like rubber.. if there is some material that could make for instance a rubber battery +pole cap, that would be very interesting. How do you get the "data" from a part into the machine? I think the time to do that is what it makes expensive? And do you really need the part fisically? (the first time.) Later on when the parts data is on file you can make as many you want i guess..

Yes they made a lot !! of them!! But even here in europe they got crushed after it became a rustbucket or after a crash, so few were left and those are the cars we drive today.. (I got my 240z also back from the death after the floor was "restored"in california.. oh Man!! there was 2mm fat heavy steel in the floor welded on some spots and clayed with silicone or something with fibreglass in it it was a mess.. i made a complete new bottom with good beams and all in it.. Now it needs another restore after 22 years.. (more the outside..)) Porsches did'nt go into the crusher.. because IT WAS A PORSCHE! It survived under a tarp and later restored..

@Mike As nice size 3D printers are becoming more affordable thats a good idea. (although the media needed to make the part stays a bit expensive?)

Interesting.. i probably restored the right car? a increase of value of 86% in one year?? My idea to restore a 280zx was to have a car that drives very nice, is big enough for my 6 foot 6 and does not get stolen because they are not very valuable... i guess that last point i mentioned no longer applies.. pff..😕

Haven't read it all but print it with a 3d printer should be easy.. and light..

Some day when i need to restore another car... pfff... i need a inner wheel arch aswell.. (i think..) for my 240z (will be his third restore Hahaha..) As i got a "english wheel" i will make it myself.. You could look for someone who can make one for you? If you have on old rusty one with the right curve it must be possible to copy it in new sheet metall. Ps. I hear you could also look for a Opel branded inner wheel arch it works aswell don't know if it's from the Kadett for sure.. (Ow i can't believe i wrote that.. i HATE Opel's!) @Bart Hoedemaker You know what type fits?

I do remember a site where i could put in my 12 digit (old) chassis nr from my 1979 280zx and got the complete nissan factory data about color exterior and what kind of upholstery was standard in my car! I only wish i knew what site that was! BUT.. search for it.. at least for my 1979 year car it's out there! EDIT.. i had 17 digit up here but it's the old vin nr and that is 12 digits.. the new one has 17 digits.

If it's the thinnest (massive) part of the antenna i think there's hope.. heat it with a heatgun but not over let's say 100 celcius.. (Don't know mr fahrenheit..) and slowly straighten it bit by bit use some welding gloves! do it slowly and by hand. Don't pull to hard on it or you will end up with the massive piece in your hand.. Lube the antenna later with some WD40 (or some light oil).

Exactly what i thought yesterday.. i check youtube (what it shows on start-up) and then start up the tv without going to youtube and listen a lot of ELO or so and look later on youtube.. in the coming weeks i test it and let yah know.

Yesterday i played an old cassette from 34 years old.. sounded like if i had recorded it the day before.. (studio equipment) and i had my tv on the remote has a mic.. to ask for something.. it was switched on but nothing was on it.. half our later i went to youtube.. what you think.. suddenly i got the song from the old cassette on youtube! It was lonely shepherd an instrumental recording.. So.. my guess.. the mic on the remote must have been switched on without me pushing the "speak now" switch button ?? Somebody is listening in... creepy!!!