dutchzcarguy

Yeah.. thats how they all start to desintegrate... YES! I did, but it was a bit of a pain in the ****.. haha.. My original windscreen was put in by CAR GLASS .. The people that claim to do the windscreen for any car in no time.. Yeah they made a mess of it. Normally the chrome trim is installed with clips, they were used but also some windshield adhesive.. i had to restore the clips and get rid of the old adhesive. I ended up with al the clips but 2.. so i think that went well. (especially when you consider that i needed to install it twice due to a broken 3th screen!) You first have to take the sides off? (and that means the part above the door.. that connects to the rubber-rail IN the top of the door (I had a nont-bar remember..) ) I don't remember correctly, look in the s130 serv .man. you can find it on this website. Btw.. i did the same in 1990.. (only in the opp. order..) haha.. bought a 280zx (ready to drive) and weeks later a 240z to restore.. but that 240z went noware.. i still have parts of it in store!

Yep! Nice car! If it's a solid car (Not a sculpturers job i hope.. made from putty.. haha) then it could get in the high score list on 240z's, ofcourse you should make it an original car with all the paperwork that you have it's a good car to put on: "bring a trailer" !! I found also some pics of your car in your profile? from 2007? I think.. it is also a very red 240z.. (rosa corsa red?) I got wheels like those on my 240z! Put a orig seat in and put it on bring a trailer..

First you could change the title.. what about is this thread?.. about a sale of a 1971 240z !!! If you had put that in the title, it got MUCH !!! more attention.. i think. and the foto's ... put some in the thread.. not download-stuff.. remember, people are lazy haha.. oeps.. 🙊 And how can i tell you what's it worth.. i need not 3 pics i need 50-200! pics and maybe i can tell what a right prize could be..

I think it's good.. ive seen factory that was worse..

Not even a Dremel? then weld a nut to it as already sayd here.. use imagination! 😉 !!!!!!!!! When you make two flat spots very undeep.. just enough for a open spanner..

Grind 2 flat spots and you take it of with a spanner.. (open wrench) simple..

I agree, maybe those plastic caps are honda? As far i've seen Datsun had the plastic bag..

I once found a pair of pliers under a seat of my new car, it was of a expensive brand! still use it! And a calculator under a seat of a used car.. it was in my latest 280zx, next year i'm gonna visit the last owner (Who drove the car before the subdealer that sold me this zx) and ask if he recognizes the calculator haha!

I thought that to.. better put it in a hot soap (where you wash your clothes with.) for a few days.. you'll see that there comes a lot of dirt out the rubber and the rubber refreshes a LOT! small cracks are gone also! and rubber gets like new! (Big cracks will stay there but the small holes are gone! done this with ball game flipper machine rubbers they were white some time and had a lot of holes in them after a week ik a solution of water and soap they were like new!!)

Recently i discovered that the window (of my 240z'71) comes/falls half a inch to the outside ( at the top of the glass) of the window, can't close it properly when i drive over 50k/h. I need a new set of those rollers to??

Wait Till she hears the " Peace Of Sh*t " is gone up over 80% in price only in this last year!! Thats golden... I'm glad that i don't have to answer for my hobby!

I bought a new set of (whole engine)seals for my 280zx and there where no longer metal parts in the in/out seal.. they say it's better that way.. i will know.. in a few years.. i hope.. when i get these IN this year.. Btw.. to check the flatness of your exhaust header, take a thick peace of glass and some abrasive material (like where you clean/polish with in the kitchen). Go over the glass with some abrasive on it with the exhaust header. you can see the un-flat spots in a minute (or 5.. 😉 )

Me to, funny enough it's in a red little bottle overhere.. I use a very little drop on many bolts big and small. Never had a loose bolt ever. 1st, your welcome Cliff, and 2nd, most z-secrets are in the serv. manual haha.. The biggest job is to get people to READ it.. instead of skimping..

Yes i know .. but i found out that if you use silversand (very fine sand) and a high pressure washer with a special tool on it you can wet-sand the part.. i used it on alu-rims and it works very good. Only thing is you need a lot of sand for just one rim.. You are left with a lot wet sand on the floor that needs to get dry again before you can use it again.. I'm brainstorming to make a cabinet were i can use that special tool and use wet very liquid sand/water.. to blast more rims.. (i have about 26 rims that need a clean-up! 🙂 ) So the problem is that special tool on my pressure washer needs very dry sand, and i wonder if i can feed it with very wet sand so i can let it circulate.. It has pro's and cons.. wet sand is not dusty and saves your lungs i think? the bad thing is if you do steel it needs to get blow dryed fast or it will rust again.. Here some results.. (did these with water and silversand about 10 ltr/min and around i guess 30-40 bar (like 450-600 psi?) (My pressurewasher is around 140 bar. but the tool reduces that because of the bigger hole in the outlet) The one on the left was to far gone and just a test peace

It's then the thickness of the liquid that makes it overheating. I agree. But let one thing be also clear, a brass/copper made radiator will always be better than a aluminum one ! Brass/copper is always a better cooler than a aluminum (or aluminium) one. Only in this case of thinner (Normally also better) tubes makes it worse.. A copper radiator with bigger tubes would be the best of all. ( Sorry but .. I personally hate that alu junk .. not in my car! esp. those chinese junk rads..)

I changed the topic.. haha @siteunseen so a 260z has a diff. stick then a 240z or are there diff 240z sticks? never had that.. i remember that i had 3 the same in my stash once but were exactly the same length and looked also the same. Where from 240z cars.. My valuable lesson on Z cars is that... there are very few cars as reliable as a (good serviced) z car!! 😉 (Sometimes i think that there is no longer a firm that makes a GOOD CAR!! All that electronic sh*t is going to make them all unreliable! (I'm an (old) electronics guy myself i know what can and will !!! go wrong haha) Stuffed with computers.. bah!! I always say: a pig's rear is smarter than a computer, it knows when it has to go to the "bathroom" haha.. it takes just one (!!) "0"or "1" to mess up the whole program in a computer and that will stop your car...again! 😡

Helvetica... Switserland (swiss) coin of 10 rappen! I must have brought it home in 1986 when i was in Zürich/Regensdorf the home of Studer-ReVox! Thanks racer, you made me look/google for the 10 cent coin.. and this one came up..

I don't think that stuff is needed.. to expensive now days you have a red (pinkish) coolant that is good for nissans and never needs to be renewed unless there is a leak. It's called R12 or R12+ or R12++ also R13 your shop knows what to use for a steel or alu engine (or combination in case of a old Z car)

That MG forum has a nice write up and pics of making a wheel! I remember that is made 12 pieces and glued them later on the steel ring.. Now i would glue the wood first and make the circle with help of the wheel itself then you know that it will fit it later on.. first make the inner cut in the wood for the steel-ring of your wheel and then turn it up side down and make the inside and outside round of the front and later another one with the rear part of the wheel. remember that the steel ring lays only inside the front ring then you have enough material to make the "fingers"in the rear part.. (copy them from an old wheel) Hope to see some pics of your work!

Silver..ish. i meant.. It looks like silver/aluminum but you can weld on it.. ideal stuff..

@ArcticFoxCJ instead of the yellow paint use "silverish" paint that can be welded it's perfect for the job, you can ask a shop for welding stuff.. local. BTW... is it a 260 or 280z you are working on?

To test it can be used.. but for real use is birch much to soft.. use some oak from a old bookcase or so. (and if the test comes out great you can use the wheel!) I used mahogany. also for a gearlever knob. I made it on a wood lathe of a friend. Halfway.. lots of coats Ready.. The 10 stood for 10 years of restoring haha.. btw.. till this day i don't know where that coin comes from, have a good look and tell me .. is it a American Dime?? uh?? It's in my 240z from 2007 till today and functioning OK! Used a coin on top, and the lower part (with the threads) of a old knob.. (It's inside you can't see it.)

And a beautyful color you picked !! 😉

When i look at the pic above.... i would make a cable from the white connector straight into the motor.. all those connectors.. it's like modern cars.. to much connectors..to much failing!

Sorry but i'm not gonna read it all.. is your car a first owner car.. are you the first owner? if not you can't know where the car has been and there are always exceptions.. (Like the cars with total different serialnumbers but same month and year dates.. the factory sometimes did put cars aside and later on after "repair" they came back in the proces line..) It's possible that your cars had some extra black stuff but this does not mean they all got it..