dutchzcarguy

After about a year of driving the 280zx i decided to do the engineroom and also refresh the seals of the L28. At first i thought that i would do this in a few years but as i discovered that the engine after 42 years (!) has a small water leak into one of the cylinders i thought i better do this now. The engine runs as new but it uses a little bit of coolingwater so i took it apart and as i expected it has a small leak near a cylinder.. it was the rear (6) cylinder! The seal was damaged there it had a kink in it.. wonder if that was since it came out of the factory because there are no clues that it was ever apart.. (still the very special orig. nuts on the exhaust flange.. and all the bolts and bits are originals.) Exhaustflange nuts (these where luckily the only ones that broke off besides one on the engine that i have already repaired..) So i need to do these 3 bolts in the exh.manifold... (I have sended these nuts with 35-40 kg of old parts to the company that passifies these parts so they come back as a very clean part.. drill them out, tap them and will try to reuse them!) Cylinders looked very good you can see the honing marks very good so no need to take the pistons out! Here i found the small leak into cylinder 6! If you look good at 3-4 o'clock on the seal around this cyl. then you can see that the seal was not very well installed on this head! it has a twist in the seal. next pic at 2-3 o'clock it is very clear to see that the seal was not installed very well! Very happy that it's just the seal that was faulty! Here a cleaned up version of the head .. it's a N42 head by the way. I took the head to a firm that revise engines and they cleaned it for me.. as the head is as straight as an arrow it does not need any work. I already cleaned the valves and renewed the stem-seals of them.. Also did a valve fitment check and ground the valves (for as far as necessary) with the special abrasives.. Taking the engine out pic.. Here a top-tip for when you restore springs.. The spring is on a little peace of sheetmetal so the cleaning can be done between the "rings" It comes back as a new one! I need to take these bolt-ends out.. if you have a tip other then drill them out i like to hear from you! (I try to get them out with some oil and if not then i cut them flat of and drill them out and tap new thread in it..) AH.. i will try to do it with heat.. but tell me, what do you do.. wait till its colder again or try to turn them when still reasonable hot? Has somebody used coldspray? i try that also on the bolt (not the manifold) .. (Just bought some penatraiting oil that also cools it.. the bolt will freeze!) Next job is cleaning up the rest/ and painting of the engine and engine room.. to be continued.. 😉

Maybe you guys don't know this but a euro 240z has no vapor tank to begin with.. When i saw the tank (in the 1990's) the first thing i did was get rid of it! A euro fill hose has one little pipe and that is connected to a single pipe on the other end top of the tank.. iirc.. see a serv.manual.

Oh my... Its now 89000 $ .. Right door top does not fit at all! (Pic 26) and the hood alignment could be much better.. the airfilter is the wrong one i think.. (should not have the cold /hot switching device..) This color in/out .. Ofcourse it's a matter of taste but i hate this colorcombo.. jak!

Maybe someone here can swap you one for another good part if you have something lying around? Thats a way i like to work these days..

👏 Applause ! You guys are good.. next time make more pics BEFORE and DURING taking the car apart.. 🙂

@ElMariachi Problem solved? later on i asked myself could it be that your starter is turning in the wrong direction? (+/- wrong inside or out..) just a thought..

We use in europe BPR6ES-11 in the L28 you could order 6 new ones it's just a few bucks and test it. But i don't think it solves your problems.. there are a lot things that make a engine run rough..

Should they not be BPR6ES plugs? so not 5 but 6 (Has to do with hotter/colder..)

That guy can get pretty far these days! 😉 Interesting topic! Last week i started on my 280zx enginebay (in a while i put that on my own thread 1979 280zx 2+2 slickroof.) and it has a N42 head.. I'm gonna cleanup the engineroom as a last step in the restore and was thinking of using a E30 (This is a 2 liter head of a nissan L20!) as i have one lying around (restored) on my attic. Also a original Datsun cam so called slalom-cam is an option to put in the E30. (I have a N42 block with dimpled pistons (I forgot the right word for it.. sorry.) Can i combine a E30 with a slalom-cam (0.475 lift - 275 duration) on my block N42? I have heard about making a thick copper gasket but i never done it before, to make less compression.. When i go to a bigger cam i also need to goto hitachi carbs (YEAH.. old school!!) or another (programmable) Injection system as the orig. sys. does not like the bigger cam..

I got a new set out of the usa sold years ago by black dragon.. it's a bit crazy to send them back again! are there no complete fenders for 240z for sale in the US? Send me a pm.. (so we don't mess up this topic..)

I never seen a cowl that bad! How is the rest of this car?? Some pics? That autospares.eu website is not recommended to buy parts from, old site and can't find anything good about it.. I think that any 280z chassis has a better cowl than this one pictured.. get yourself another chassis.. (I can't believe the rest of that car is good..? i see also big holes near where the battery sat?)

You have a very special 240z.. A ECU ??? please go to "home" and then to +create (right top..) and create your own topic about your problems! Your car must be modified then.. a 240z has no ECU...

Could be with a faulty starter, you used a original or a (one on the many bad) copy('s)? Yep and on both starters.. and... a picture tells us a thausand things more than words haha... (I never heard of this problem but i thought a weak spring in your starter/startrelay is the culprit.. they can have that problem both..)

I think thats not the oil that hangs on the carbs.. it's just greasy stuff.. dried up fuel that hangs on the carbs. Your oillevel is max at the line.. your good if it's just under that line.. as long as your piston in the carb gets to the top fluently.. (push the piston up on the filter side) If it halfway starts to go much easyer it's wrong, it should go with some resistance/drag all to the top. I think the oil does not need to be all the way to the line.. line is a max indicating thing. If your carbs are losing the oil.. yeah then you need to remanufacter/revise them..

Last week i filled them up because one carb was low. that was the first time since 2007! I could feel when pushing the big pot inside up that the rear carb had a low oil level.. the next half of the way up it went very fast and after i filled the oil up it was a slow upgoing pot so good again now.. (pff bad english hey..🙊)

I renewed things in 2007 and have the same.. bottom of the carbs get a bit wet.. i guess it comes from that extremely good ( sarcasm !!!! ) fuel we get these days.. (at the moment we pay about 8 dollar a gallon for that $^!#..) The oil that you put in the carbs (i use 10w40) burns of if there is to much in the carb.. after a 50 miles i think the oil should stand on the line or under (on the stick is a line for the oil.)

Motorsport! Koni - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

KONI makes them again, just a year in production i think? brand new, for the 280zx!! (look for the topic here on czcc!)

NO.. you didn't.. The missing data here is: we (europe) had the 260z till the new 280zx came in 1979, we had the 260z overhere.. (So buildyears are from 1974 till 1978 !!!) never seen the 280z! (That had injection, thus no shoke knob needed) All 280z's in europe are gray imports they were never imported official in those years.

Maybe the brake pads have (normally) a little play and are dry? just a good clean and some coppergrease behind the pads needed? Something stuck inbetween the brakes? Otherwise make a vid with the sound..

What you say? a digital code of 1024 numbers? Oh it was something like: 101101100011110101011101101010011111010110110101010010101011000010111011010101011111100000 is that oké ? Yeah.. you say.. That lock is like a digital code. there are thausands of combinations for your lug! You got a gun? shoot it off!! 😉 You know what happens if there is changed only one "zero or one" in the program on your phones little computer? it will go wrong, if not instantly, some day later.. He's taking the micky out of you.. i believe is the term? (Bloody english hahaha) It's NOT gona fit unless it's the one of the previous owner of your car... Yeah. How many Z car forum members DOES it take to remove a locking lugnut? Hihi 60 ! and counting! How many members?? 5 !! 4 to turn the wheel and one WITH THE CORRECT LUGNUTKEY to hold it !

Yeah and i can think of 10 solutions... drill a big 12mm hole in the middle of it! (Oh.. other advice start offcourse with a 4-5 mm one!) and buy a set of new bolts.. Next !!! 5 days and counting!

AND remember everybody.... A GOOD set of tools is half the job !!

Cut a slit in it and HIT it hard with a hammer! use a small chisel! You are now 4 days busy with only one bolt.. Later on install a new bolt (and a new set of Nuts.)

Yes, And they are in between the chassis and the steel rail for the door rubber. i believe you can take out the doorrubber there and take out the big phillips screws (they are JIS* screws but phillips gets it done) and then you can take the side stainless of the screen.. pop back the rubber in the rail and you can close the doors .. Use some plastic sort of screwdriver stick to do the stainless off the upper stainless strip. (that way you don't mess up the stainless they are hard to find in a perfect condition.) Take your time. I think it's the same on a t-bar car but i had a non t-bar car. On a non t-bar car there is a piece of rainrail attached to the rubber rail that also has to be removed before you can remove the side stainless of the screen pfff... complicated but.. made/engineered very well! Then you can .. again use a plastic flat screwdriver of some sort to pull the upper or lower strip of the screen. IF there isn't used a lot of adhesive. Use a stanley knife to cut through the old adhesive, again taking your time, you don't want the stainless to get a kink in it! (On the rear window i used stainless off of 3-4 rearwindows! to get it good) If you ever want to polish those stainless parts.. do it on the car before you disassemble, why? you will end op with spagetti stainless when you even try to polish it on a machine. It WILL fly out your hands at some point.. (NO i didn't do this myself, there where people here who done this and ended up with a mess.. there are pic's on here of it!) If you want to polish them later, cover the rubber with plastic sort of tape like the electrician uses so you don't "polish"the rubber the stainless is in! (Make a new topic for your 280zx on here! please!! 🙂 ) * JIS = Japanese Industrial Standard. (a screw that looks like a Phillips but is not, it's a JIS.