Carl Beck

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Great Deal for anyone wanting a car to go racing in... I'm sure that is less than a third to cost to build... FWIW, Carl B.

As pictured - what you have there is a nice, but yet unfinished project. What is said to be a solid car with a new paint job, and suspension rebuild. Kind of a blank canvas... Street Mod it? Do an actual Restore To Stock? Refresh it without worrying about period correct cosmetics etc? IF - BIG IF because there is no information given about the type or quality of the job - IF the paint and body work are first class {cost $6,500.00 or more} - as it sits now missing parts and all - - - $10K to $12K. Depending on what the undercarriage looks like...{it wasn't stripped and refinished}. FWIW, Carl B.

$14K to $16K as long as the paint and body work are still without flaws/damage... and as long as the engine compartment is very presentable etc. Waiting to see the pictures.. FWIW, Carl B.

I'm not certain - but I don't think so. A friend was converting a A/T to 5spd - and he needed the early manual crossmenber. I didn't ask if his car came with the A/T installed - or if he started with a shell. I found an early crossmember in my spares and gave it to him.. I'll check with him... Carl B.

Hi PartsPeddler - PM sent {Private Message} Carl B.

Yes - that is possible. My mind may be playing tricks on me - but I would have sworn I saw a magazine ad with that picture at the top - surrounded by a red band... I could just be remembering the ad from the time... FWIW, Carl B.

Can you give me the direct URL - that shows KYB saying not to add oil to the strut tube? I can't seem to find it on their sight? thanks, Carl B.

True - but - "available" doesn't quite tell the whole story really. According to the sight in question all the following parts are available and at reasonable prices. 27118-E4400 Heater Hose {to control valve} 16089-N3300 Braided Hose AirCleaner to Front Carb 16086-N3302 Braided Hose Water Front Carb to Rear Carb 16085-N3302 Braided Hose Con to Front Carb 27118-E4400 Braided Hose - Heater Valve 27181-N3000 Braided Hose- Heater Inlet The problem or misunderstanding is that from Nissan's point of view - they can supply a newer part that has the same form, fit and function. Not the same cosmetic look. When the parts arrive at your home - they will also have a later part number.. which has superceded the original. Order the part numbers above but they will not be the Original Braided Hoses necessary to actually "restore" a 240Z to "as it left the factory" condition and appearance. So - are the actual parts above "available" from Nissan - NO. Are replacement parts available? - yes maybe. Sometimes the EBay sellers are telling the truth - the whole truth. Sometimes NOT. You have to know the difference and you have to see the actual part. FWIW, Carl B.

No matter where you go - if you have a 240Z - Parts are getting harder and harder to find. Many of the vendors show Part Numbers as good - with a note that they are available in 7 to 10 days. Then you get a "back order" notice - and months later the back order is still not filled. Finally it is cancelled... Let's face it - the cars are 40 years old now. FWIW, Carl B.

I just saw that Ad somewhere today - - now I can't find it again. I think it was on Facebook at one of the Local Club web sights..

Where was that? - URL ?? I can't seem to find a link .. thanks, Carl B.

Hi Moto: Some suggestions. Looking at the picture - it looks like you used 1/2" black iron pipe - Yes/No? The line from the compressor shut off valve to the wall - if it isn't already - should be rubber/flexible, with a quick disconnect on one end. When you get a dryer {aka water separator} / filter, you'll want to add an air pressure regulator to the line - and you can mount them on the wall just before the line to your hose reel.{water vapor will condense in the iron pipe}. Most air tools are rated at 90psi - and you don't want to over feed them. It just drains your supply more quickly and doesn't gain any power at the tool. It can also wear them out faster. The Milton 1108 1/2" Filter and Regulator Duo is a reasonably priced - higher quality unit. I'd stay away from the less expensive IR units sold by HF and Northern Tool. Is the junction box - there for a Quick Electrical Disconnect? FWIW, Carl B.

If you are using the term "Restore" to mean - put back to its original as built condition. In a word - Yes having the original engine in the car matters a lot. It is very important as it relates to its future resale value. If resale value in the future nor winning Shows matters - then no it doesn't matter. A near perfectly Restored 240Z might sell for $25K to $35K today. A near perfectly Refreshed 240Z with non-matching numbers might sell for $16K to $18K today. A near perfectly Restored 240Z might sell for $35K to $45K in three to five years. A near perfectly Refreshed 240Z with non-matching numbers might sell for $16K to $18K in three to five years. It seems that in general - Collector / Museum Quality Examples of Classic Cars keep going up in value and at a much faster rate - than modified cars. Swapping out the original engine is a major modification. Not having it at all - is even worse for the future - as it can never be returned to Pure Stock. You just don't want to put tooooo much money in a refresh or restoration - without some consideration of what you could expect / hope to get back out if necessary. Any way I look at it - If I'm going to put the work into the car along with $25K or more of my cash - - - I'd want to put it into something with a higher potential for returning most of my money in the future, even if nothing for my time. FWIW, Carl B.

Is it an original Matching Number car? I don't see an engine nor do you mention that. I wouldn't put the money into a true Restoration without it having its original engine. Hard to tell from the pictures - but the rear wheel arches look like they have been reworked in the past - I don't see the factory spot welds showing. I'd check that area carefully - as rear Quarters are expensive - and too often they have been screwed up by poor body work. Initial price seems good - you can expect to spend $25K ++ in addition to your own labor. Some of the parts needed to actually "Restore" a Series I car are getting somewhat EXPENSIVE now... FWIW, Carl B.

Good For You! Looks like 60 gal - 3.5HP {actual} runs on 220/240volt ?? Should be pretty quite running as well. I'm sure you'll be happy with it. Most guys buy used hockey pucks to use as isolation mounts to the floor. My local Goodyear Rubber Store {sells Goodyear hose, belts and fittings} was able to supply everything I needed to install my compressor {compressed air fittings, quick releases, flexible lines, etc}. Plus they give me thick rubber mats to use as isolation mounts for the feet. They also supplied Parker Qucklock hoses and fitting for plumbing air around the garage. Saved a lot of running around!! Wasn't cheap - but everything is very high quality. If you have a Goodyear Rubber Store near you - might pay to visit them... FWIW, Carl B.

I think you might get an answer to your question - if you ask Hagerty. Thinking of a V12 Ferrari or a Cobra perhaps??? Or thinking of just leveraging the present collection? Great time to take some equity out of the Classic Cars and buy a Winter Retreat here in Florida. FWIW, Carl B.

That's what happens when two or more people want something. Hard for some to understand, but spend a couple years and $50K+ restoring a car - and then see if six hundred bucks means anything... The good news is - now we will see about 20 radios like this one - show up on EBay... High prices like this encourage people to dig things out of the attic/garage and make them available to people that need them. Carl B.

The "edit" key appears at the bottom of your Post - right after you make the Post. It is there for a brief period - but doen't stay there long. If you car is March of 71 - the E88 most likely did not come on it originally. The E88's started to show up toward the end of the Series II production. March of 71 would have had the E31 from the factory. FWIW Carl B.

At $4499.00 someone got a super deal. That car was either on E-Bay or on a Dealers Web Site back in April of this year. It was here in Clearwater - and I went to look it over. The Dealer that had it was asking around $16K - - don't know what he sold it for - but if it sold on E-Bay to a buyer in NY - and if that buyer paid anything close to the $16K - - he may have been so disappointed when seeing it in person - he decided to dump it and take the loss. That may or may not be what happened - but that is the same car. It needed a complete repaint to be really "right" - and someone had coated the undercarriage not too long before I looked at it - with a spray on Black undercoat.. which set off Red Flags when I looked at it. Nonetheless the interior was in show condition and I didn't see any serious rust issues in the body work that could be seen. At $4500.00 someone can drive it as is and enjoy it - and still have plenty of room cost wise to do a complete refresh or restoration. FWIW Carl B.

Hi Webmanic70 Great pictures and thanks for sharing them. Nothing like a goal with a deadline to get things moving and done. Nonetheless that is an amazing amount of work to get done in three weeks. The results look super to say the least. FWIW, Carl B.

OK - First - when your friend let the jack down - I did not hear you REV the engine While applying the HAND BRAKE. Secondly - as stated you may have to try that a couple of times.. Not stop at 1. When the clutch disc brakes lose - you will feel pressure in the Clutch Pedal. An Edit from the above: I just put the car on an empty street. Start the engine in 1st and get the car rolling about 15mph - then yank the E-Brake hard, while pressing down on the gas AND HOLDING THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO THE FLOOR. Usually takes a couple to three or four trys. Of course you have to be ready to turn the key off if you run out of street... Also - you have to make sure your rear brakes are properly adjusted - otherwise the E-Brake won't get enough grip to stop the wheels. BTW - were you holding the Clutch Pedal to the Floor - when your friend dropped the Jack? You don't need a new clutch and tranny - you just have to learn the process of breaking a frozen clutch disc free. try everything again... Clutch Pedal To the Floor - REV the engine and Stop the REAR wheels with the E-Brake. good luck, Carl B.

The 2+2 clutch is slightly larger in diameter and has more clamping force. I can't remember if the 2+2 flywheel has a larger diameter finished area or not - just to be safe I'd get the 2+2 flywheel with the clutch assy. if I were going that route. FWIW, Carl B.

The method described should work.. I just put the car on an empty street. Start the engine in 1st and get the car rolling about 15mph - then yank the E-Brake hard, while pressing down on the gas. Usually takes a couple to three or four trys. Of course you have to be ready to turn the key off if you run out of street... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi David: Great to hear from you. Yes - that is the picture. Been there - Done that. That was when I bought the Ferrari. Now on my second marriage for the past 24 years. Looking back I wouldn't change a thing! Most guys are lucky if they find one good wife - I've had twoLOL There is what looks like a very nice 72 510 4 dr. - in Washington. Dark Green - with 54 miles... You should add that one. Might as well have 8. take care Carl B.