Carl Beck

The seats in the Series I & 2 {70 and 71} 240Z's are slightly different than the Series III {72} seats. The Series I & 2 seats had thick foam pads supported by rubber webbing. That webbing ran under the tubular frame of the seat bottom. The Series III seats used steel springs, to support the foam pads which sit on top of a jute pad. The foam then sits on top of that. The springs sit slightly higher up in the tubular frame of the seat bottom as well. There is no reason - that if you get the foam pads - which are made for the Series I & 2 cars - that the foam pads couldn't be made slightly "thinner" {less high} for proper fit in the Series III & IV {72 & 73 } cars. Order the stuff from Banzi - seat upholstery & foam pads - take your seats to a good auto upholstery shop - and have them take the seats apart. Then compare the thickness of the original pads to the replacement foam. If necessary they can trim the new pads. Ask the upholstery shop to call you when they have the seats taken completely apart. You may find rust staring to form on the metal parts. You may want to sand them down or wire brush the metal parts - then prime and repaint - before you have the new upholstery put back on. Around here most auto upholstery shops charge between $75.00 and $100.00 per seat to install your foam and upholstery. You can do it yourself - but it is hard to get them on without a bunch of wrinkles if you don't have a Steam Machine to work the vinyl. FWIW, Carl B.

08131-06510 Bolt-Fixing T/M to Engine 1 each 08131-06010 Bolt-Fixign T/M to Engine 3 each 08915-24010 Washer-Lock Fixing T/M to Engine 4 each Starter To Bell housing 08121-04510 Bolt-Hex M10x1.5 x 45 09121-03528 Bolt-Hex M10x1.5 x 35 08915-24010 Washer Spring 10 - 2 each 08915-44010 Washer Plain 10 - - 2 each FWIW, Carl B.

Time for an update on this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread29498.html Did Katy get ahold of you? {the young lady that sold you her Grandmother's Z} Carl

Glad to help in any way I can - however I really know very little about the Z31's. Might be able to get you with someone that does. Feel free to drop me an E-Mail: beck@becksystems.com At Post #72 were you asking if Gus was going to be at a meet at Lake Worth May 20?? Carl B.

For anything other than showing the car in "STOCK" class - I'd stick with the S.U.'s. There are good reasons most people took the Flat Tops off. FWIW, Carl B.

There was no expansion tank - but there should be a hose from the radiator overflow nipple over to the side of the radiator and down to the bottom. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: OK - clear enough. I guess I can't answer your question. I've never removed a tank with any intention of saving the old filler neck. Most of the time the reason for removing the tank was to replace a cracked filler neck to begin with - and other times if I had to remove the tank for some reason I intended to replace the filler neck while I was at it anyway. Because as they age they get brittle - then crack. FWIW, Carl B.

$47,100.00 and the reserve is not meet. Wonder how high someone would go? Fully restored to correct spec.'s they can bring $125K to $175K depending on who is present at Auction. It would take $80K to $100K to have it restored.. Maybe someone that can do most of the needed work themselves will pay more than $50K for it... as is... FWIW, Carl B.

I did not need an adaptor - I used two ballets resistors on my 72 240Z. Don't know what else you would need for a 280Z. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/MalloryDist.htm FWIW, Carl B.

THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU Kris!! How you found that I do not know. According to the salesman there it is actually their web site mostly for company use - they don't promote it in their advertising!! Anyway I have two on the way!! At $109.00 they are very reasonably priced as well... Glad I delayed putting the heater back together this week :-) FWIW, Carl B.

I believe that Mike had the door jamb and engine compartment data tags reproduced for 70-72 for the Vintage Z Program. I doubt he did any for the 280Z's. Looking at the Parts Catalog, I see engine compartment data tags listed for the 280Z - but no door jamb data tags. Nonetheless it wouldn't hurt to call Mike... you never know..

I have never tried to remove one - - but given it is shown as a replaceable part - it most likely would unscrew if you heated it up and put a pipe wrench on it. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't see anything in your first Post - that states you cut the filler tube in the first place? The only way to change the filler tube is to drop the tank down. I don't understand what you are asking... FWIW, Carl B.

No dilema - - if you are "restoring" it - put it back to the condition it was in when originally produced. Vacuum plate it. Also give us the guy's name in Madison. And go see if he wants to do your tail lights as well!! good luck, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Looking at my personal tracking list - where over the years I've recorded every Datsun 240's VIN and Engine number if possible {most of which are not on the public register because the owners didn't want them listed publicly} - I see lots of oddities in reported build dates during the 04 to 06 1972 period. I can't explain it - but VIN's ordered sequentially during the 3 month period - show up with production dates mixed between 04, 05 and 06 of 72. A few of them are 240Z's that were sold new in Columbia, South America. Based on both the Original Engine Serial Number - and VIN - I'd say that John's Z would most likely have had an 06/72 Date Of Mfg. Even if the publicaly registered cars would lead one to see it differently. I believe you can still get a replacement for the Door Jamb Data Tag from Banzai Motorworks http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php Part ID-05 Late 72 - - but you better ask Mike where "Early" ends and "Late" starts... You may have to FAX him a copy of your Title as well.

Agreed - compressing it enough to make the fender fit properly might be a problem. The original close cell foam was a little less than 1/2" thick - -- Hard to tell how firm or soft that rubber seal is from a picture.

How much was he asking?? Looks super clean for the year and mileage.

With the Nissan Comp. FIA 4 piston {Sumo Mk-65's as I recall} calipers and vented rotors - there are matching larger dia. rear wheel cylinders as well. That's the set up on the BRE Baja Z - and it uses a 1973 style prop valve and booster. Really great feeling brakes.

A disc/drum set up is just as good as a 4 wheel disc brake system. Except - - - when your brake upgrade includes ventilated rotors, 4 piston calipers up front and rear discs. when you are doing the "Tail of the Dragon" at challenging speeds - or other canon carving etc. In that case "better performance" equals far less brake fade effect. Plus a reduction in wheel bearing grease melting and running out. Except - - -when you are talking about brake feel/control - in that case I believe that you have better modulation control with the 4 piston calipers as well. In terms of being the "best" at stopping the car from higher speeds in a shorter distance once - the disc/drum set up is about equal to any brake system upgrade - - because shorter stopping distances are more a function of traction than the clamping force of the brake system. Upgrade to a 4 wheel disc ABS - and you have a better system in Panic situations than stock, for the average driver. What actually stops your car - is the friction that can be maintained between the tires and the road. Tread compound and pattern, in addition to the load effect braking performance the most. in terms of stopping distance. Bottom line - spend the money on better pads/shoes and better tires. FWIW, Carl B.

Replace the heater core??? Where do you find one? I looked everywhere I could think of about six months ago - no one had any at that point. Motorsports shows one - for like $300.00 - but did not have any to actually sell. FWIW, Carl B.

I have the BRE Rear Bar on one of my 72 240Z's - sounds like it mounts the same way as the ST Bar. Swapping in the R200 was not an issue. FWIW, Carl B.

Good discription E. Item #60,61,62, & 63 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #28 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #15 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #6 in the diagram previously Posted above. Not shown in the above diagram. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - and today you can buy a very detailed Die Cast of one of Bill's restored 240Z's. Correct right down to the VIN on the Dash... it is the Franklin Mint Model - in Orange. A car Bill saved from the crusher after a tree limb fell on it.. Nice as it was when Bill was done - the next owner spent another year or two plus many thousands of dollars making it even more correct and even nicer!. It is a really great 240Z story in and of itself. FWIW, Carl B.

So now all you need is a Cell Phone, Satellite Radio, GPS, iPod and an arm rest with a cup holder ... and you are good to go! - - Oh wait - emergency tool kit, some heater hose clamps, spare fan belt, and / or Hagerty Roadside Assistance Phone Number... Have a safe trip... Carl B.

The water control valve would be item #6 in the diagram above. AND YES - they will all be harder to get to with the Dealer Air installed. FWIW, Carl B.