Carl Beck

The Series I cars were sold/titled as both 1970 and 1971 Model Years. The Series II - or Late Model Year 1971 {started production in late Jan. 1971} had the same body, with the exception of the Fresh Air Exhaust Vents - that were moved from the rear deck to the Quarter Panels or Sail Panels. So no rigidity issues to worry about. The Fasteners on the 240Z's were mostly Japanese Industrial Standard metric. While the thread count and pitch is the same as the US metric fasteners - the accompanying Bolt Head / Wrench Size, of the nuts/bolts above 8mm, are a larger size than the JIS metrics. FWIW, Carl B.

Amazing what you can do by yourself - if you start, keep at it and don't worry a bit about how long it takes. Just keep at it - Good Luck Roger!! Enjoy every minute you spend working on it. Carl B.

Is this some kind of foreign language? Well at least he seems to have a Z now - Carl B.

But just to be clear. Under that off-set slotted mount - On the shaft that runs between the oil pump and distributor. There is a GEAR on that shaft that drives both the distributor and oil pump. So in effect, with the engine set at TDC on the compression stroke - you have to set the distributor off-set interface or keyway - to the position it is supposed to be in {11 & 5 O'clock} - - then install the oil pump on that drive shaft - without letting the drive shaft slip out and turn. Because it doesn't matter how the oil pump is turned when installed on the shaft at the bottom - just don't let the drive shaft turn out of position - as you install the oil pump. In this case it really helps to have someone on top holding everything in place, as you install the oil pump. hope that's not to confusing...

My 1962 Olds Starfire had a vacuum gauge mounted from the factory, on the center console. Owner's manual included instructions for readings. All the mechanics in the garages used vacuum gauges in the 50's - it was one of the first things they reached for when they had engine problems. I don't see them used so much anymore.. FWIW, Carl B.

My 1962 Olds Starfire had a vacuum gauge mounted from the factory, on the center console. Owner's manual included instructions for readings. All the mechanics in the garages used vacuum gauges in the 50's - it was one of the first things they reached for when they had engine problems. I don't see them used so much anymore.. FWIW, Carl B.

Sound like the clutch disk is rusted to the flywheel. We had a discussion here a few weeks back about how to break it free. You have to roll the car out on a street with no real traffic. Start the car and let it warm up so it is running fine, then shut it down, then put it in 1st gear. You have to get the car rolling in gear - by starting it in gear and letting it roll forward with a little throttle at about 20mph. Then you have to stop the rear wheels from turning while at the same time you hold the clutch pedal to the floor and apply more throttle. You stop the rear wheels from turning by using the E-Brake. You yank it up HARD. You may have to repeat that process a few times. FWIW, Carl B.

That looks great! I bought 3 from Les several years ago - From past experience I wanted to have a couple spares. Funny thing is that since I had spares on hand - I haven't destroyed the original. Maybe keep yours for "insurance" FWIW, Carl B.

He is planning on trailering it home anyway. At home he can drive it and enjoy it whenever his schedule allows - without worrying about conflicts with Les's schedule. He'll also have time to break it in and work any bugs out - close to home. Once you put them back together you usually find a few bugs/issues that need attention. 5, 50, 500 - drive it five miles away from home, then 5 miles back - and check everything. Then 50 miles away and 50 back - and check everything. "Then" take a 500 mile weekend trip with your wife.. FWIW, Carl B.

When is it not disengaging? If it is at start up - that you can't put it in gear - then the clutch may be fine - but the clutch disk is rusted to the flywheel - that happens in Florida when the car isn't driven for a few months. If the car starts - you can put it in gear and drive it - but the gears grind when you shift - then it could be a problem with the clutch master or slave. That is a 77-79 5spd - and it was professionally rebuilt a few months before you bought it. {John Williams in Atlanta}. FWIW, Carl B.

Short collar with thin pressure plate - the clutch will not disengage fully when you step on the clutch pedal. You'll grind gears when shifting, if you can get it in gear with the engine running to begin with. Long collar with thick pressure plate - the clutch will slip because the release bearing will always be putting some pressure on the clutch pressure plate fingers. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guy: I think that "A" - Automatic & 3.54 is a valid assumption. Should be a good rear gear with the 4 spd. Carl B.

Looks Great Guy - nice to have parts that aren't dented or all badly pitted to work with. I think you are enjoying this -.. Carl B.

Jerry - for God's Sake - 6 years you have been waiting - if the car is finally done, have it put on an enclosed carrier and sent to your house. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rolf - thanks for letting us know. I try to keep track of where the known Scarabs are. #154 is a very nice example! FWIW, Carl B.

Exactly - as I said above: "For that matter all the 240Z clutch pressure plates you get today are what were originally 280Z Pressure Plates". The original 240z Pressure Plates were "thick" - and the matching collars were short. The 280Z Pressure Plates are thinner than the original 240Z Pressure Plates - - so you have to use the longer 280Z collar. For many years - ZOOM and ZOOM though NAPA had kits that came with the complete clutch assy - and a new matching throw-out bearing collar. Sadly they no longer come with the collar.. FWIW, Carl B.

Just a thought - under the "been there - done that" heading Recently rebuilt L28 - you might want to watch for any signs of the rear seal on the engine seeping a bit of oil. Be sure your PCV valve isn't clogged or stuck as well, sometimes they are overlooked on an engine rebuild. Other than that - I've never had a problem with a stock 240Z Clutch. For that matter all the 240Z clutch pressure plates you get today are what were originally 280Z Pressure Plates. So they should hold a mildly modified L28 with no problem. If you swap to a 240mm 2+2 Clutch - I'm pretty sure you also need the matching flywheel. FWIW, Carl B.

Rare as the calipers are here in the States - the rebuild kits are even more so. They have a pretty unique piston seal set up. Eiji was able to get me a few rebuild kits out of Japan - seems that the vendor that carried them was not too far from Eiji's Parents Home. This was years ago - but AsIRecall - the calipers were around $650.00 for a pair. When the Z is fitted with the MK-63's - you change there rear wheel cylinders to larger diameter units as well - - the difference in braking is significant. They give much better pedal modulation and feel.. There are two types with different Part Numbers listed in the 73 Sports Option Catalog, one used with solid rotors and the other used with ventilated rotors. 41000-E7201 / 41010-E7201 and 41000-A7600 / 41010-A7600 {Ventilated Type}. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed -there are a few things I'd personally change - but I'd just keep it a nice Street Mod. At least the 260's had decent A/C..finally - so it would make a better driver in Texas etc. A lot of work seems to have gone into that Z - $15K would be far less than the cost to duplicate it. FWIW, Carl B.

I have no idea what year the MK63's were first released by Sumitomo. They are listed in the Nissan Sports Option Catalog in 1973 at 15,000 Yen {$41.67} each, with a set of 4 Pads for 3.000 Yen {$8.34} when the Yen was 360 to 1 USD. They are quite a bit more today! They were registered by Nissan and approved by the FIA for use on Datsun 240Z's in 1970 {not valid for Group 3} - that is what make them "FIA" approved. Otherwise a MK-63 is a MK-63... FWIW, Carl B.

If the car checks out in person - I wouldn't take less than $14,500.00 - might be a consignment by a customer. I don't think you'll find too many new car dealers that are dull enough to take a lowball offer. Anyone in the area that can go check it out? See if it starts and runs out as it should. Looking at the details shown - someone seems to have done a first class job.. But you never know... Carl B.

Depends if you are retaining the R-12 or if you have switched to R-134a. Condensers for R-134a have more and smaller diameter tubing - and are usually refered to as "uni-flow" units. If you have, or are converting to R-134a I'd get a condenser designed for that. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rick: Your problem is finding a 240 Z anywhere near you - in good enough shape to start as a project car - that isn't at least $5K to $6K. Seems to still be lots of them in the Western States - but then you have a couple grand in shipping. At any rate - good luck in your search. FWIW, Carl B.

If you are replacing the dash - yes - go ahead and move the VIN Tag - and keep the correct VIN on the car. That is what is on your Title!! IMHO - The half dash Caps never look very good - but the full dash covers properly installed look great - actually hard to spot if your not looking for one. Keep at it ... Carl B.

Call me slow... but that is "36mm" - and what do you have to do to use them? thanks, Carl B.