z boy mn

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About z boy mn

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    Minnesota
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  1. I can try to make a video and see if it comes out well enough to see the wiggle. It's more a feel thing. I might be able put the inner rod in a vice though, and show the wiggle by just moving the out tie rod. UPDATE: I didn't get the video made, but I did manage to measure out the inner tie rods again. They seem to spec out at the same as Captain's...so I'm going to assume they're both original. Unfortunately, we've gotten more snow in MN (with more on the way), so it's going to be a while before I can get it into an alignment shop to see what they think. I'll update if there are any suggestions/changes. Thanks again everyone for your help!
  2. Hey again, Captain, I did miss the measurements you reported at the top of the page...must be I scrolled past them by accident. Interesting. I'm going to check mine again as I remember that I also got a reading of 13.84 a number of times, but I wasn't sure if my meter was zeroed out properly and I thought maybe it wasn't perfectly square with the tie rod. I'll take some more and see how they compare. Maybe I'll also borrow a better caliper set. Mine are the $19.99 Harbor Freight variety.
  3. Interesting update. I work at a college with a strong automotive program, and they often help me with the Z for custom alignments, tricky installations, advice, etc. So, I brought in the inner tie rod and outer tie rod and asked them to check out the fitment. Both instructors handed the kit back to me with a question mark on their faces, like "what's the problem?" I told them the story and they wiggled everything around some more (this was the new inner tie rod, so it had the most slack), and they said they had seen far worse and that I shouldn't worry about it. I reminded them that the car spends time on the track, and they didn't even blink. Hmmm. Makes me wonder about all the other cars on the road! I'm still going to try the 14mm bolt and see how that fits. I'll be curious if others have every experienced this kind of thing before, of if the Captain comes back with wildly different measurements for his inner tie rod threads.
  4. Hey Chickenman, I've been using various sources and various brands... The parts I have now are labeled from "Rare Parts," but a set of the outer tie rods were from Moog. I'll dig around for an original/used set in MN--there may be some around here that I could at least measure. But, as you found out, the inner tie rods are getting hard to find and I think that must be the issue as the outer ones all seem consistent. The specs do seem to explain the wiggle -- I was also thinking about getting a standard 14mm bolt and see how that feels threaded in just for comparison. As for availability overall, ZCarDepot reported the same thing: that only the right inner tie rods are available. MSA just took them all of them off its website. I'll run some searches on the part number you supplied and see if there's anything that pops up. Thanks again for your suggestions!
  5. Interesting suggestion, Captain, as I had three different outer tie rods to play with at one point. All three fit the same (on the stock inner tie rod). My guess is the one I took off the car is OEM, but that's just a guess. What I do know is that I can send the new inner tie rod back...and I'm hoping the folks who do the alignment will have some input, too. Strange what a little bit of steel either way in the diameter can do to how it feels going together. At this point, even if they determine it is a problem, I'm not sure what I would do. Fabricate an inner tie rod myself using a 14mm bolt? Or...just bite the bullet and go with a techno-toy style instead...assuming I win the lottery, that is! (Of course, these thread onto the inner tie rod, too...so maybe they'd fit the same!) https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z
  6. Hello Captain, I did some measurements tonight, and the mystery continues! I used my digital calipers, which aren't the greatest but I think they're consistent with themselves. The thickness of the original right inner tie rod averages out at 13.8mm (so it must be a 14mm bolt), but the thickness of the new one averages out at 13.65. Both had some variation (or user error or caliper error) of about .03mm, but there's no question that the diameter of the original is somewhat larger than the replacement. My conclusion is that as the fitment is about the same and the diameter of the original is larger (deeper threads so it's stronger?) that I'm better off sticking with the original. Thoughts? (BTW, I forgot to measure the left side...but I'll do that tomorrow and update. And, to answer your last question--yes, this is only the right side. I'm beginning to suspect the "problem" is me!
  7. Good thinking, Captain, I checked the threads (male and female portions) and it all looks pristine. No burs or marks or mashed threads or weird spots. I also compared the thread (by eye) of the inner tie rods on the car and the new one...they look to be the same size. When I was in the shop, though, I forgot that I have a digital caliper. I'll try to measure the diameter of the bolt/threaded part and see if they're exactly the same. If it all checks out, I'll assume it's fine, I guess.
  8. Good afternoon everyone! I have news! So, the new inner tie rod came in this weekend and the "wiggle" seems to be about the same as the original. By "about" I mean it feels the same, I haven't figured out a way to measure it yet. Also, I tried wiggling the lock not side to side on the threads, and the locknut on the original inner tie rod wiggles less than the one on the new one. SO...does anyone have a way to gauge "wiggle." Or, whether or not I'm simply getting paranoid at this point? BTW, ZCarDepot was great. The part shipped right out and was here before I was able to even get a chance to try it. They do have a return policy, too, which it seems I may be taking advantage of in the near future. Looking forward to closing this chapter...and open to suggestions.
  9. If Captain Obvious is having second (or third) thoughts, that's all I need to know! And, as I like the idea of being sucked (or blown) through the opening of a window very little, I'll get online tomorrow morning and order a new inner tie rod. And, I think the Chickenman's memory is equally valuable. If there's even a small change in how these things were manufactured it could explain the wiggle...and the change must have been for a reason. After all, the driver's side fit like you would have expected. Maybe that inner tie rod has been replaced already, for example. It's also worth noting that when I first got the z, my spouse made jokes about being a "z widow" because I was spending so much time in the shop. She doesn't make those comments anymore, but I'd like to keep it that way. I'll post an update on fitment when the inner rod comes in to complete the thread...either way.
  10. I just talked to one of the tech support people at ZCarDepot, and he suggested that if the locknut spun fine and the whole assembly tightened up like it should, the inner tie rod was probably fine. This is admirable, as I had my credit card handy in case I decided to order another one (they happen to be one of the only places to get them). I'll need to get the car aligned again when I put it on the road, so I'll get a second opinion, but for now I'll assume it's safe. Thanks again everyone!
  11. Interesting...it wouldn't surprise me if the PO had used different bolts.
  12. The replacement bolts (I replaced all 4) came from the local hardware store (Ace), and I'm sure they're as authentic as anything I can get here. The ones that came out of the car, however, I'm not sure where they came from originally. They looked OE...but I'm not sure how I'd be able to tell.
  13. HI everyone, I totally got the number wrong for that bolt in my head! I'm pretty sure my goal was 25, which was also too high. Maybe I misread the FSM as I couldn't find a nice table like the one above. Also, I don't know how to tell if it was an OE bolt or not, but the head was stamped 10.9, so that's the kind of bolt I used to replace it. Well actually, I replaced all of them. As for twisting off, it didn't make it to 15 lbs of torque...maybe not even 5. When I looked at it, it almost looked hollow. Of course, that was also after it got twisted off. I was guessing maybe it was where the bolts got weak from use? Finally, the instructions for the shocks were shockingly bad! Good thing I turned the paper over. Looks like the first set were for rear shocks...ones with a bolt pass-through of sorts built in.
  14. I see your point, Captain Obvious...the threads are definitely strong enough to pull it tight against the lock nut, so maybe that's enough. And, the lock-nut seems to fit/spin just fine so the threads on the inner tie rod are consistent. I just hate to have it wiggle (even slightly) when it's on the track and either wear out other components or come apart...I'm not a professional mechanic, but that seems like it would be bad! :-O I'm thinking that maybe I can talk someone at ZCarDepot (which has both inner and out tie rods) into screwing a set together to see if there's any play. As my outer tie rods seem consistent, if there's no play in theirs I'd know it was the inner tie rod on my car...but if there is, might just be the way it fits together and I'll rely on that locknut. Hmmmm. Maybe I should add an extra lock nut! :-D
  15. siteunseen, you do understand the situation correctly... And, I can add that both the outer tie rod that was on the car (probably OEM) that I took off wiggles the same amount as the new one (definitely not OEM) when I put it on. So, that's why I was thinking maybe it's the inner tie rod that is somehow a different size. Maybe the inner tie rod was replaced at some point? The good news is that the ball joint and the joint on the outer tie rod (both OEM and after-market) are fine. One option is to just order a new inner tie rod and see. Of course, I like the teflon tape idea as long as it's not dangerous.