siteunseen

Cool! Get it moving then the rest is easy. I think the slow starting is that' the timing needs advancing a little, but that's a guess. You seem to know what you are doing so I'm certain you'll figure this out. Hope I might be able to help somehow.

You should read the msd sheets that came with the coatings, that will answer all your questions. Bare metal needs primed and top coated no matter what you've read. It's a fact of paint 101.

Could you post a few more pictures of the center caps? I'm interested. Thanks.

All I can say is get comfortable, then read until your head hurts then start again the next day. There's hundreds of things to think about before building a Frankenstein motor. Sorry, no simple yes or no. 8^(

One more question. You don't have the T shaped plug on back of the alternator, wonder why? Then how do know which wire goes to F & N? Just curious, no big mystery I don't think. 8^)

I put a 5 speed, '77-tru? wide B, in my 240. 1st through 4th are great and then I tried 5th this morning. Push in the clutch, goes into 5th nice and smooth, release the clutch and it pops out of 5th. I don't know squat about transmissions so any ideas would be appreciated. I know I'll have to carry it to my transmission guy and would like to kinda know what to tell him the reason may be. Thanks all. That aluminum flywheel has taken some getting used to but now I LOVE IT!!! The motor revs so much quicker it reminds me of a motorcycle. I'm banned from motors though so this is close enough. Super high pitch sound like an aftermarket pipe on a crotch rocket.

Is this the same guy that had that convertible in Beverly Hills? His ad was fun to pick apart.

Absolutely. Here's something to read that's helpful, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html it shows where to clean,

If they have the e-brake brackets and my neighbor signs for the delivery where would you rate them overall? 0-10 Thanks for posting this information. They look good.

That could be the timing. See where the rotor is pointing at TDC. EDIT: I say this because I just rebuilt mine too and set the "static" timing by lining up the rotor to the line on the cap thats shows where the #1 post is under the cap then turn the distributor until the reluctor and stator tips line up. It cranked up right off the bat. Then after getting my other small stuff adjusted properly I set the timing with a light to 10 degrees before BTDC. Now I've slowly worked my way up to 15 BTDC. It seems to run best there.

Check the battery cables at the starter. Make sure the alternator belt is good and tight then put a volt meter on the battery while it's running, should read around 14 volts.

My Dad always said if I had to go 100 feet, I's spinning the first fifty then sliding the last fifty. 8^) At 46 I still get excited and in a hurry but I'm getting better.

No, if you replace the rotted pieces. Primer and topcoat, in my opinion. If it were mine, I would prime and paint the new metal before installation then again after it's in place. Both sides too.

Yeah he made peanut butter, George Washington Carver.

If you'll read down towards the bottom of this page you might see something? Good luck. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

On my 280, '77, there's no white plastic plug to the starter wire. That pictures is a 240Z. The small wire that goes to the starter's S terminal should be taped together with the black that goes to the fusible links on the strut tower. There's 4 plugs on mine coming out from under where the voltage regulator is. two go to the wiring harness and two go to the vacuum solenoids.

The black is connected with the red battery lead on the starter. Then it splits into four wires going to the fusible links on the strut tower.

Red to the starter's solenoid, black to the top starter mounting bolt? Alternator's white with red stripe to the BAT post, black to the E and the T plug plugged in? It sounds like your new ground terminal isn't tight or the fusible link plug isn't connected. I had a bad alternator that blew the IGN fuse on mine and killed all the gauges but the horn would blow.

I bet that's a typo, 2/71 should be 2/72. Mine is 2/72 and 69,***.

With all the Bluetooth speakers out now and the micro SD cards for my phone, I've decided to put the original radio back in. It took an hour of hair brained searching to find it but when I did I was happy to see the condition it was in, almost like new other than the silver edging is worn off.

Some comparisons. It's a little cleaner and I know what's in there.

Well I'm done. Drove it and put 5 gallons in for tomorrow mornings drive. First time it's been driven in over a year. Quick rebuild I said. Not a 240!

This is a very promising idea like someone said above. I half assed it am happy enough to put it back in until I do a full restore. I want to drive! Some taped over the crack and come in from the bottom side with the ABS cement and it works like a charm. Like I said, with a little more effort I could have made the cracks unnoticeable. (I think )

Don't sweat it too much. You are happy, that's all that matters now.

It dries really fast! I've only put on one layer and coat so far and after 15 minutes I was handling it pretty normal, almost trying to break it loose. I cut the fiberglass to size. Put a thin layer of ABS down, too thin apparently, when I go to stick the mat down the cement had already started to set up. I pushed it in with a finger though and put a medium top coat over the mat, you can still see the little squares. I'm about to put a second layer on this morning and will put up a picture.