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Discretionary funds! WTF is that? Coors in discretion.

What coincidence! Here's your filters and shows where the valve cover hose should be connected.

Thanks for the replies. I have to do some family favors this morning and that means ALL DAMN DAY with my family. I'll try and get a better grip on it this evening.

Cool car! That rubber shift boot is out of a ZX I believe, you may have a short throw 5 speed. If the inspection light works, you'll have good luck with the car. Curious about the hose running around the distributor. It looks like the intake coolant line from the thermostat housing but where does it terminate? The valve cover hose looks like it connects to where the coolant hose should be connected on the intake. I just got through plugging all that off. Looks like it has a period friend across the street, maybe a Buick or an Oldsmobile or is it a Cataract? It still has the fender skirts.

It is weird holding something that was last held by a man in Japan 40 years ago. The more I work on mine the more I like it for it's simplicity. Great write up too. I buy stuff and look at it for a year or two before I get the courage to tackle the job. Then when it's all over with I always think how easy it was.

That's a classic sign of the coolant temp sensor. Mine would spit and sputter until 2,500RPMs then pull like a champ. Put a potentiometer in line and now it's like a new car. $5 at Radio Shack then do what Blue explains here. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html I ran my knob into the cabin for tuning on the fly, played with it for a few days until it was right and haven't touched it in years. EDIT: On second thought, put a G-3 filter coming out of the tank like above said and see what comes out of the tank. Easiest to do and you'll need one anyway. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

FWIW I bought a "last until I'm dead" Kobalt super nice upright 60 or 80 gallon? can't remember, $600. Harbour freight pressurized media pot, $100. With all the stuff that air compressor runs I feel like I'm ahead on those purchases. The Datsun Z cars turned me into my Dad, which ain't a bad thing. I'm the guys dad in Fast Times with the "ultimate set of tools" that's a TV repairman.

Should I bypass everything with my own pump and gas can? Or drain the tank and put some new gas in? I've got an EFI pump and the wiring to a battery, drop the pick up in a 2.5 gal. can and secure the output to the fuel filter in the engine bay. Would that work? Neighbor has an older Sentra I can get for nearly nothing. Id like to crank it and limp quarter mile to my house without much work done from where it is now. Mosquitoes!

How did you get the rocker arms out without prying down on the springs retainer? I guess turning the lock nut and the adjusting nut all the way down, just thought of that, sorry.

Try prying the retainers down with a screwdriver or small pry bar. If you can get the pressure off with one hand and pick at the collets with the other hand. Lay a magnet next to them to catch them when they fall loose.

Quick side bar. LeonV, I absolutely love my aluminum flywheel and stock clutch combo. Thank you for helping me make that decision. I think it's my favorite add on so far. Next is the triples. Baby steps. 8^)

You can use a big flat head screwdriver and pry down on the spring retainer. Slide it under a rough spot on the cam. Put the car in gear and the crank won't move.

That's nice! It makes for a better finish than the flakes for sure. Thanks for the dupi color number.

100 miles this morning without a hiccup. 8^) I believes I got it!

I've used a deep socket, maybe a spark plug socket?, over the spring retainers and pop them with a rubber hammer. It knocks them loose before using the spring compressor. You'll hear the difference in sound when you get one loose. The only thing you might be careful of is the keepers can jump out across the room. If you'll hit them until you hear the springy sound instead of a "ting" sound you'll know they're loose. A pencil size magnet works good getting the keepers when the spring is compressed. I've read that some guys use a socket and hammer and don't use a spring compressor. Good luck.

Changed out the break in oil, looked good. Cut the filter and it looks good. I was expecting timing guide pieces that thing is so tight. 8^) I went with Quaker State Defy 10-30. It claims 1200 zdpp? same as vr1 but 5 quart jug at walmart was only $15. I'm guessing the anti flowback vales have changed from the rubber flap and now are on the $4 frams? I guess that is what this is, I've not seen that before.

Thanks CMan, I had my blinders on. If you don't have a 27mm socket you can pull all the plugs out and roll the car back and forth to slowly turn the motor (pulley) to find the notch. You might want to lightly sand that rotor button's copper edge too, every little bit helps. Good luck.

Lay under the driver's side with a 27mm socket for turning the crank nose bolt. Turn it towards the driver's side until this mark comes down to the bottom. get some kind of paint, White-Out or nail polish. A magic marker would work to I guess and mark it up real good so you can see it from the top side. The bottom right picture, "Timing Mark". When you get everything to TDC, zero, take the distributors cover off check to see if everything is lined up the stator's points and the rotor's to each other. The distance too by loosening those screws. here's the link to Blue's Tech Tips where I got the pictures for you to look at. I did this to mine and it makes a difference. Thanks Blue. http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Yes it is. Moving the wires straight across from one another should get you something, a slight hit at least. I think you said earlier it kicked back one time almost stopping the starter? To me that means you were close but had the timing too high.

Nope, '79 ZX shroud with a '78 radiator. The coolant runs 175 degrees sitting still.

There's a good bit of tips and suggestions. Search "engine removal". Not sure how far you want to go when the engines out of the bay. I tinkered with mine for a year before reinstalling it, cleaning and deleting unused stuff.

I'm going to put the bronze side bushings on and now will get the thickest cup bushing from my collection of shift rods. It's still hard to believe I haven't read anything about grinding the shift rod. I've read a lot of stuff on theses cars over the past 5 years.

I'll put some blue layout dye on mine and see what marks I get, thanks for that idea. I can try that today and hopefully get my interior put back together. I need to change the break-in oil out with some fresh and put some miles on that little baby.

When it's on the compression stroke, which is what you want, line the biggest notch on the pulley with the "0" on the timing marker then take the very front spark plug out and get a hose or something stuck into the spark plug hole and blow or suck, whichever you prefer. It should be airtight. When you swapped ECUs did you put the plug wires back to 153624? Get it to top dead center, pull the distributor cap off and snap a picture, post it.

Gas prices are down and I made the mistake of stopping by my old friend's boat shop. Bad mistake, this video didn't help either. I used to have a Hydrostream Vector with a Mercury 2.5, 100 MPH boat. We used to do the same thing back when the police liked to have fun, they would radar us and tell us how fast we were going, no speedometers in race boats. 10,000 tach, temperature and water pressure gauge. Here was our drag strip, Turn up the volume and enjoy.