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I wish that was my air box! That's on down the road for me. 8^) Alright "Blind Mellow Jelly" we're thinking alike, heat riser it is. See post #316. "I want my daddies records" I'll put some screen on there just in case. Thank you Gentleman!

I did the same when I didn't know any better!

Thank you Mr Arnett, I have an ugly hose with a 3/8s to 1/4 adapter stuck in it. That chair stopper will be much better. Here's what I'm talking about though, Here's what I think I can use if I need to. I was thinking the more air the better so just put screen wire over the opening to keep the varmints out?

There's one of those 4 fusible links that can cut power to them I think? Some have a cut off in the AFM when the flap is closed, others have it in the oil pressure sender. Kills the pump when you have an accident, no air or no oil pressure. Look at Blue's picture and find the other stuff for EFI. Good luck.

They're some drawings for a wooden crate floating around here that Zedyone Kenobi put up. I made one and use it all the time. The oil pan and the oil pump stay on too. the head can be stored in a bag but you must put something under it to keep from resting on the vales, there will always be two sticking down past the bottom. I've used doubled up cardboard on one and styrofoam on another, both work good. Put the rest in boxes. here's that wood crate. you'll need some casters for it so you can roll it around. And those bumper's boxes look just like the ones from Futofab that I bought, the rear is 3 piece though.

I bought two Exedy 6907 or something like that from amazonmcom. $100 and they're great in my opinion. Not to heavy, good street clutch.

Vinegar's a good idea. You can also use a short section of chain instead of nuts, whichever you may have. I used a brass wire wheel on a cordless drill on the outside of mine. Painted it black then did the bottom with undercoating. I wish I had used truck bed liner though, it's much tougher.

Another question while I'm recharging. What should I do with the big hole on my air filter now? It used to go to a heat riser (that's what I've always heard) off the stock exhaust manifold. Now I have a header. Should I block it off and restrict the air flow or put some type of screening over it and let it breathe? Thanks.

I'm excited that I'll get to use that for the 20 minute run-in on the first start up after a rebuild. When I built my 280's motor I had to jimmy rig a wire on the throttle rod to maintain 2,000 rpms.

I think I'll check myself into a rehab facility after I get mine cranked. A 30 day r&r would be great and my ins. will pay.

Thanks Zed Head! I have a ZX distributor. I need to look more closely at the body. I know it has a #1 line on the cap. I'll take a better look and report back. Everything's going back together very well. I need to run the 2.5 exhaust back to the rear then recheck everything. Then it's FIRE IN THE HOLE time. Maybe tomorrow morning? wizz the neighbors off a little more.

Another question. To static time? my dizzy I should put the pointer on the 10 degree BTDC mark on the pulley. Then rotate the cap until the #1 mark on the cap lines up with the center of the rotor button. I can take a Sharpie and transfer the caps #1 line onto the body of the dizzy and turn until the button lines up with the Sharpie mark, no? Thanks for any help, I'm done lubricating the small stuff for today and am having trouble typing this as I've become blinder. "Where's my only cigarette?"

I agree with Jonathan and from recent experience I can add another thought. I rebuilt my 2.4 then it sat for about 9 months on an engine stand. The thought of new rings on the newly honed cylinder walls got me thinking about turning the motor over without the rings being seated. The walls have very fine ridges that should be worn down to match the rings during break-in, not turning the motor with a ratchet and socket. They'll also get a slight bit of flash rust My $.02

Congratulations! I'm not too far behind.

Could I run a temporary hose from the cylinder head to the hose below the spark plugs, bypassing my heater core until I can get the hoses and valve replaced? That way I think it would flow less through the carbs and have some circulation at the back of the head. Anybody have any thoughts on doing it this way? The yellow marking would be one hose. Thanks.

Captain, I'm over here!

I read this a few times,http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm Then this, http://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf Made a list and order of the steps, the acid and the liner are time sensitive, beforehand. If you have everything lined up and ready to use it's pretty easy. The first one I did, I had know idea what to expect and wound up getting a little flustered. The 2nd one was kinda fun. Just playing, it's not fun using acid in the heat of the summer.

Did this end up working? @grannyknot

I need that hoist this morning to get out of bed. I've been crawling all over that car. This part is fun though, I get to dress it up and lubricate all the small stuff.

I'd take the fronts if you're selling them as complete sets. Greg and I could work out the details. Thanks Chas, they look great and you made them. Winners all around.

It doesn't give me the "camera" option! And I've had to sign in 2 or 3 times since installing it. Had to dig out my file showing the pword. Working out the bugs I'm sure, I'll wait another day or so.

Yes the finisher on the red car is more silver than the oe color. The guy I bought it from did that color. It looks okay on the red and white so I've left it alone. I did not know the light housing was unpainted. Thanks Chuck for that info.

That's my concern with vatting them. Same chemicals they use for radiators, not as strong and dirty. Probably leaves a film too that the liner won't adhere to as well. My .02 cents. 8^)

I apologize for sounding arrogant, I didn't mean to. I got all my instructions from Blue's Tech Tips on how to clean it with acid. Then the red kote instructions are on the internet. $30 for a quart of liner. $10 for a gallon of muratic acid and $10 for a quart of denatured alcohol. You need at least 4 five gallon buckets and a $.50 lb of baking soda. I have a leaf blower that helped speed things up. Sent from my SM-S765C using Classic Zcar Club mobile app

You can buy the stuff and do it yourself, I did, for $50 and a Saturday afternoon. When I bought the car, After a muriatic acid sloshing, After Red-Kote, I have clear glass filters on the two cars I've done and have never seen anything that looks pink or red. The Red Kote needs to cure for at least a week, until the smell goes away plus a couple of extra days.