Jump to content

Ptero

Members
  • Content Count

    137
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

1 Follower

About Ptero

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Job done. Took a while to get all the parts and to find the time to get everything done. First impressions are good. I may have to adjust the clutch pedal position as per the FSM, but overall everything is working well. In the end I did the following: Replaced the transmission (old one needs to be rebuilt) Replaced rear seal on trans. Replaced the differential from an r180 to r200 to keep the gearing correct for the trans I swapped in. Replaced side seals, front seal & gasket of diff. Replaced rear main seal. Replaced clutch & pressure plate. Resurfaced flywheel. Now it's time to enjoy the car for the summer and break in the clutch. Thanks to everyone who gave their helpful input!
  2. Running and driving, no howling of the diff yet. That's not to say it won't, but it just hasn't yet.
  3. If it howls, it howls. It's installed. I'm gonna howl with joy from driving it again.
  4. I was replacing the front seal of the diff. It's real damn tight now and also has red loctite so the nut isn't going anywhere. This diff is coming out of a parts car so I don't even know what it would have sounded like before.
  5. Sooooooo I didn't mark the pinion nut when I took it off. How silly of me. Now I'm reassembling and I see the torque specs for the pinion nut is 137-159 ft-lb. Great! So I torqued it to that and the preload when spinning the companion flange didn't change. I believe it's supposed to be 6.8 to 10.8lb and I've got about 2.5lb. So I torqued it some more. Preload didn't change. I saw in another post on hybridz: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129225-r200-pinion-flange-nut-torque/ "That "put it back where it was" suggestion is a bad one even for a diff that has a crush sleeve. The R200 has no crush sleeve. The spec is RFT, I want to say it's something like 150 - 200 ft lbs. I always use red loctite on the nut the put my impact on 5 and hit it, empty the compressor until it fills, then hit it again. Never had any issues." Can anyone give any further details on what I should do next? Did I just create a boat anchor by over tightening the pinion nut?
  6. Got around to doing a few things today. Found the right collar to get me to the 92mm sweet spot. Replaced the rear main seal, installed the new pilot bushing, cleaned up and painted the transmission plate and installed the flywheel.
  7. That's something I'm currently looking into. I've got 3 different sized throwout sleeves on my table right now, but I haven't measured them. I measured the new pressure plate when it was flat on the table and it was 1 3/4" from the table to the top of the fingers.
  8. The new one fit perfectly on the clutch alignment tool. Doesn't hurt to try it on the transmission too I suppose.
  9. Well I suppose an update is in order. A smallish fix has got me into the "while I'm here" state of mind and things have ballooned a little bit. Everything out of necessity I'm telling myself. Decided it'd be a good idea to replace the pilot bushing. Clutch kit comes with one after all. I'd say the old one was pretty tired. Wow! Got the flywheel resurfaced. Swapping in a wide ratio 5 speed. Cleaning it up a bit because it was filthy. Due to changing from a short ratio 5 speed to a wide, I am now switching out my r180 3.36 for a r200 3.54 I had attached to another shell. Pardon the messy shop. It's just how it is. It gets used.
  10. I don't think I've got the perfect combination, but that's ok. I'll work with what I've got. L28 & 5 speed wide ratio with one of the following: R180 /w 3.36 gearing (existing diff) R200 /w 3.54 gearing (have all components to install in car) Some highway driving and some city driving, but no track or racing. Is there a preferred combination here? From what I understand, 3.36 might be a bit sluggish in lower gears but better on the highway while the 3.54 would be a bit better for light to light but higher rpms on the highway. Correct me if I'm wrong.
  11. Checked around the shop and I've got 2 possible diff's to use. R180 /w 3.36 gearing (existing diff) R200 /w 3.54 gearing Keeping in mind I'll be using this /w the wide ratio 5 spd from a 77-78 280z I believe. Again, some highway driving and some city driving, but no track or racing. Is there a preferred combination here? Maybe this is a topic for another thread and I'm sure has already been covered (I'll start scouring after this).
  12. Welp, cracked open the diff. Stamped with 37:11 which means it has 3.36 gearing. Not ideal for the wide ratio 5 speed? The car is used for casual driving around town and on the highway. Never taken to the track or raced.
  13. EXEDY GlobalParts (formerly Daikin Clutch USA).
  14. haha, I've been collecting parts for several years. Sometimes I forget what's all stored in my shop. I have 4 spares, but couldn't remember if they were all 4 spd or if there were any 5 speeds. Turns out there was one!
  15. The only marking I could find on it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.