Patcon

I would have to look at my flaring tool. I believe I used 3/16 to glare all my lines

@Mike

What do you think the difference makers were? The other two Zs seemed to have pretty weak auctions...

What method did he use to clean the corrosion off the carb bodies?

I miss my Jims...☹️

I also appear to have a dragging brake. The left rear is getting pretty hot. I put some miles on it this weekend and the fronts were about 105F. The right rear was about 125F. The left rear was almost 200F. I thought it might be the Ebrake caliper dragging but I took it off entirely and it still gets warm. I am assuming it the left rear caliper and not the axle since it seems to be sided. I had wondered if it could be check valves in the master but that doesn't seem to fit the situation... Otherwise it drove pretty good. I experimented with spark curves some. It's surprising @AK260 if I switch to Ali's tune it pulls alot harder but won't idle with out a little choke. He has about 6 degrees more advance all in. The car pulls alot better like that. I really need to find a Dyno close to me to do some finish tuning

So Shelley was in the yard the other day and the Lilies were blooming

Bring a TrailerL28-Powered 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a L28-Powered 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #248,046.This seems like a poor result to me...

Or ignore it and operate on the principle that pointing right before the leg of the "P" is normal operating temperature...

Number 99. Nice looking early car. Should do pretty well. Especially in the UK

I made some pictures and dimensions of the barrel screws that were used to secure the tool covers to the hinges Renamed...

I think the 15 look really good on the car. I went 16s for the broad tire choices and to clear my Wilwoods

Are you running stock struts and spring perches? I was concerned about clearance of the stock suspension at 225, so I went 215. I may revisit that if / when I wear these out. I'm not sure they would clear and all tires have a slightly different profiled sidewall

@cgsheen1 Lay it on him... ;)

Nope, didn't know that...

The parking brake will adjust the shoes when the handle travel gets too long. If the handle doesn't pull up too high then it won't turn the pawl. Like Terrapin adjust them out until they just touch. Pump the brakes once it's all assembled and then double check the drum contact. Sometimes stepping on the pedal will center the shoes and add a little gap

Repro's The repro's use a very small double headed screw with about a 4mm OD

Probably not too far from Captain Obvious

Where are you at? Looks like TN, Ky, VA...

Steve Nixon could make them at 240zrubberparts. I tried to ping him in this thread but he hasn't responded. You could email the company directly

To set the needle valve you have to hold the lid the other way. Right side up. Put a tube on the intake and blow through it. Lift the float until the valve shuts off the air. You should have about .550" from the top of the float to the bottom of the lid

Yes, we have been very rich. It's possible it's carboned up. We'll have to work on that too

Do you want these dimensions in mm or inches?

Some additional There is a bent piece of metal that goes around the plastic lid flange There is some adjustment at these screws because the holes are larger and allow some adjustment There are two screws on each side that hold the glove box liner in. Not much adjustment there The latch on the door side can slide if you loosen all the screws on the latch and the panel screws slightly The actual catch can be moved around some. I also had to oval out the holes in the latch to get enough movement to line up with the hole in my new dash pad. Even so, my glove box isn't in perfectly and the top line is partially warped by the glove box light pressure. I need to design a retro kit to reinforce the top edge of the glove box door

Thanks Steve