Patcon

So do I actually need the stainless steel Trico ribs if I have wiper arms that old blades in them? In other words, could I just use the metal ribs off the old blades with the rubber sweeps?

Here is the rubber one on the passenger side I believe this is Kat's car, thanks Kats

This is one of them. I don't know if there is another on the drivers side

I have an airbox but it's pretty rough. I dont really need the backing plate as I have two of those

The early cars have the tools behind the seats. There are some rubber straps with metal ends that hold them in place. I need to source these straps

So I was messing with reassembling horns today. I don't believe my early horns have the metal bar. They only have a round piece with the insulators and the threaded stud. After assembly they bump in once but must not be opening the contacts or there's another path to ground. Are the paper gaskets supposed to be insulators??

Chas, That's for the direction on Oring material My switch is different than the one you posted. I wonder if any of the Orings are the same?

So some more progress and some lessons for today. My brake light was always on unless I pulled the signal wire off the safety brake failure switch. The parking brake wouldn't light up the brake light either. After pulling the sensor and exploring some and stealing a switch off the brown Z and opening it up some Cody could see it. We determined the sensor threaded in too far. I rebuilt this in Jan 20, 2018. I used a small viton o ring instead of the black ring on the end of the sensor. It should probably be a small hydraulic D ring instead. If it threads in a hair too far it will close the ground circuit all the time. We took the black ring out of our stolen switch and that fixed the always on brake light. The parking brake switch had to be wire wheeled to make it work but we still didn't have a ground path. So that meant we had to pull the bolts out of the parking brake mechanism and clean off some paint so that we had continuity. Then the parking brake switch lights the brake light as it should. :) So the lesson here is very similar to Chuck's steering wheel anecdote. If you paint everything, you're electrical might not work! I also made a little heat shield for the 123 ignition. I have heard that heat from the header could kill the electronics. It's flimsy but I will redo it when I decide what I want the finished product to look like I also worked on my parking brake adjustment. Using all the adjustment available the handle was almost out of travel. So I bought some 10mm OD 5mm ID aluminum tubing off Amazon and added a small section of tubing to remove some of the slack in the system. I used some heat shrink to prevent it from rattling around. It works much better now. Five clicks and it's tight at about a 45 degree angle.

That seems like a very fair price! GLWS

I would have been interested in that car for Cody but I don't have the spare cash flow. I thought that was a pretty solid number for that car

Happy new year!

The dual webers can be a challenge to get tuned right. I would go to twin SU's. I suspect your carbs are very rich which I found to be the case when I had a car running dual weber downdrafts

There is a recent thread cataloging the thread sizes in the manifold, I believe...

That's very cool!

Yes, that is the one! Two years, times flies...

Those look like Webers, and I know of no Chinese copies with all the Weber details

I was remembering a thread recently that discussed blade refills for the factory 240z wiper frames. Am I remembering that correctly? I looked through several pages of electrical post and tried several Google searches of the site but can't find it...

Yes, no issues getting rid of scraps!

On another note, I figured out my headlight issues. So the H4 LED's I have are interesting. This is the typical H4 pin locations So when I attached power to the ground location on the LED and tested the other pins the Hi's and Lo's work fine. But they also work fine no matter where I attached the power into the bulb. Very strange So the Phenolic at the bulb has these labels I decided I would wire it this way. Power in on the right side and high beam (red w white) on the left hand side. I then took the other headlight out and made it match. Now everything works as it should. The indicator is on in high beam and completely off in low beam. Another thing off the list

More Christmas pics original-85f943e3-d761-40e3-905a-1a9be56f23ca.mp4

Update Solid state VRegulator @cgsheen1 The needle whips back and forth almost the full range when driving. Negative to positive current at almost a constant wiggle 240 alternator with external regulator, obviously. We did have some magic smoke out of the dash when we started it months ago. So possible Ammeter issue or over current on a dead battery? How would I test the ammeter?

I have texted him and PM'd him from CZC. I haven't heard back...

Yeah, it helps if you don't paint the trace!

A decent project early car with out a lot of rust is probably $6k or more. Careful sand blasting! Especially early cars. It's easy to warp the metal and the blasting work hardens the metal I would switch and try to sell the 280z project to recoup my money out of that project...

I checked voltage earlier today but I will recheck. It was like 14.7, pretty stable but that was at idle