Not sure how the left rear drum got tight, but am trying to adjust and remove the drum per the maintenance manual. I have taken the wheel off and can't really get the drum to move at all unless I have a really long lever arm and then it won't move much.

I have removed the emergency brake from the left rear, but can't rotate the drum unless I drive it. When I drive it a short distance it seems to loosen up, but the wheel gets hot.

I am trying to loosen the adjust lever through the access hole in the drum but have had no luck. I am not sure what position the access hole should be in to apply a screwdriver to lever adjustment.

I am not ever sure how this happened to begin with since I never use the emergency brake.

I am all ears.

Regards,

JJ 75 280Z

Are there any signs of a leaking wheel cylinder?

No. I tried to back out of the garage a couple of weeks ago and found that wheel dragging. I drove it a short distance and it seemed to loosen up. I could push the car and it would freely move. I drove back into the garage for another week with the same occurrence of a tight wheel. I drove it yesterday with no change so I took off the wheel, disconnected the brake cable then tried to rotate the drum so that I could place a screwdriver in the access hole to adjust the brake shoe pressure, but with no luck. I have no idea what I did to cause this issue.

This happened to me actually. What happened was the self-adjustor inside the drum seized. I'd say pull the drum and check that out.

Mine get got locked up all the time because I don't drive it much. Never skidded the tire though so maybe you're on point trying to figure out the issue. Mine was hard to get out of the garage, a lot of high revving and riding my clutch. Loud, very loud. I think I helped that by not pulling the e-brake on each time I park. Hard habbit to break after driving manuals most of my life but I eventually retrained my noggin to leave it just in gear on mostly flat areas.

Edited June 4Jun 4 by siteunseen

You bring up a good point, but I first have to pull the drum off.

My question is, how do I pull off a drum that doesn't want to come off. What orientation does the access hole need to be in to poke around with screwdriver? 8 o'clock or 9 o'clock?

Use a rubber mallet and hit the drum between the lugs. Then hit it between the other 2 lugs. Alternate until you can work it off.

52 minutes ago, jj280z said:

You bring up a good point, but I first have to pull the drum off.

My question is, how do I pull off a drum that doesn't want to come off. What orientation does the access hole need to be in to poke around with screwdriver? 8 o'clock or 9 o'clock?

I'd guess 8 o'clock but with a good flashlight you should see the geared looking adjuster. Looks like 4 oclock on here but cameras shoot backwards all the time.

Maybe this will help

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58287-drum-brake-adjuster-77-280/

Site Librarian to the rescue!!

From the 1976 280Z manual. Not a lot of help, kind of like the spindle pin "just pull it out"

I kinda thought the hole would be around 6:30 ish. but not sure.

3 hours ago, jj280z said:

poke around with screwdriver? 8 o'clock or 9 o'clock?

12 minutes ago, Terrapin Z said:

around 6:30 ish

You'll feel the teeth of the adjuster with the screwdriver. You'll be able to tell. A small thin screwdrive with a sharp edge is best. It has to grab the teeth as you push it inward. And, as noted, the access hole is at the bottom.

The drawing that Nissan provides is good, just not well-explained. They're showing the screwdriver in action. They even show the direction of rotation. Jam it in, make the wheel turn until things get loose.

Should that splined wheel turn easily or should it be a struggle? Do I need to apply lubricant to loosen up the wheel?