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Found 23 results

  1. I'm in the process of making wire harness changes that include upgrades and additions that will increase the total current requirement from the alternator/battery. Ultimately, besides wire gauge changes, the alternator will need to be upgraded. For this calculation, I started with the belief that winter and summer might be very different. Turns out, maybe not so much. Loads are computed at minimum charging voltage: 13.5 (arguably). Lighting current is based on using incandescent bulbs which also will see "persistent" and "transient" use. The persistent load comes
  2. Had a bit of excitement. After four years got my 1970 240Z fully restored and on the road. After about 1 hour of driving had smoke in the cab from insulation burning on one of the primary power wires under the dash (see photo). I repaired the wire and added a new female spade connector and then proceeded to clean the connectors under the dash by the passenger kick panel (second photo) as well. I then reconnected the wire and ran the car and held the wire with my hand and noted it becoming hot. Tested resistance on the wires and they seem fine. Also, noted that when I turn on any item, l
  3. Hi everyone, I own a Hybrid 260Z (with a 280ZX turbo powertrain) with some issues that I'm trying to clear up. I believe the electrical harnesses are a mix of 260Z, 280Z and maybe 280zx so I can't look in a service manual to figure things out (I do have all 3 manuals though). I need to understand what's going on, and I need some help with this. There are a few issues I want to resolve, so I'm taking a baby steps approach, a little at a time to avoid being discouraged by the whole thing. First step, replacing the fuse links with some Maxi fuses. I'm not sure the wires that we
  4. Hello Z Community, I am coming back in hopes to revive my Datsun once again. Before I jump back in I want to give a back story to this situation. Car has been sitting in garage for the past 9 months. I charged the battery in hopes to get it cranking and starting again. After some attempts of failure, I left the car in the ignition and turned to "on" (where you hear the buzzing). Fire ensued. The fusible link for the Alternator/Ignition Relay link caught fire. (diagram below) I replaced the fusible links and charged the battery. It can be seen below (black). (You can see some of
  5. I find myself reaching out to this awesome community once again. I have a 1974.5 Datsun 260z (Oct 1974 build date). Two weeks ago all was right with the world. I'd had a nice afternoon of driving the Z. I stopped to fill up the gas tank and when I started the car back up none of my gauges were working. Nothing but the speedometer (it's a mechanical connection). Fast forward to this Saturday an my battery alone will not start the car. I get a jump start and try to make it home. It's night and I have my headlights on. By the time I make it approximately 10 miles to my home my headlights are ba
  6. Hello, I have searched previous threads and am not coming up with an answer. I have no power at the signal wire from the voltage regulator to the altenator. I have replaced the altenator, then the battery, then I thought maybe I got a bad altenator and replaced it again after getting it bench tested, then the voltage regulator in that order. Any ideas?? Thank you in advance.
  7. Hello Classic enthusiasts. My 1977 datsun 280z car is almost up and running. The problem is a little hard to describe. I replaced the battery and the car ran fine. I notice the car started to lose cranking power after 8ish car start ups. Around this time, the car would struggle to crank. I charged the battery right up and the cranks beautifully. At first, I thought my alternator is not charging my battery (which seems to be the case). I went through the "Alternator not powering battery" thread and could not assess my situation. I did some testings on my car with a multimeter and found
  8. I need some help with my internally regulated alternator. I have a 1976 280z that I have been restoring (full rotisserie resto-mod). The car is pretty complete mechanically. I have removed the fuel injection and fuel injector harness and control. I have removed the distributor and transistor ignition module. In their place I have triple OER Carbs and an XDI electronic ignition. I don't that either mod bears on my present problem. I have installed a 60a internally regulated alternator. I performed the wiring modifications shown here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alt
  9. I have 3 alternators for use on the 01/70 resto I am completing. The only photos I can find are of the internally regulated units. However, I would like to disssassemble the externally regulated unit and restore it to the factory appearance. The main issue i'm having is locating the original stator band colour. The one that is in the center of the alternator and goes around the entire unit. I've seen cast-iron grey, green, and also red. This is for the externally regulated unit, which I have a new regulator for as well- so I would like to continue using this one instead of the internally
  10. Hi, I have a 1973 240z, rewired the car with an EZ wire harness, and I have upgraded to a 60 amp alternator from a 280zx. I've driven the car fine until I had an issue of the alternator overcharging. The original 60 amp ended up testing bad, so I replaced it, and made sure to test the new (re-manufactured ) one I got. It tested fine, but when I installed it in the car, I hooked up a multi-meter and it was going up to 15.7 even after warming the car up, and putting load on it, including lights and an electrical fuel pump. Anybody have any idea what could cause this? Such as a wire too small go
  11. Hi everybody, So I am wondering if anyone has used the alternator upgrade KIT from MSA? Motorsport! 60-Amp Alternator Upgrade Kit, 70-73 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Is that alternator decent, or should I really get a rebuilt-280-one? Any recommendations of an alternator that is compatible and good quality, but not too expensive? Thanks!
  12. I have a 73 240z with no electric fuel pump. I just installed the ZXP plug and a 280zx 60amp alternator. The new alternator appears to have a cut out on the back of it. Do I need to unplug the one that was bolted to the external voltage regulator? Thanks
  13. Made a mistake in my first post. Original and corrections shown below. Sorry for the messy post. Basically what I've found is that both of the two popular alternator conversion instructions will allow the alternator to charge, internally regulated, but they both leave loose ends for other components in the 1976 280Z. I am new to this site but thought I would share something I found out about upgrading to a 1979 ZX alternator on a 1976 280Z. Using the atlanticz.com instructions - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html - the brake warning lamp check relay will be "
  14. ok, so, am i supposed to have a charge light somewhere? I've got another alternator on now and now i am not getting power at all ever to the BW or the WB wires, and I have full time power at the White wire, key on, key off, full time 12 volts. any ideas to what is going on now?
  15. Well, I'm sure this is a rookie mistake, but the back bolt that connects the alternator to forged piece that connect to the block vibrated out and disappeared causing the alternator to vibrate and torque, and I removed the front bolt to use a model at the parts store. I have the 8 X 25 mm bolts but... Now, I can't get either back in, as the alignment is just a bit off. So, any advice would be much appreciated. This is a 1975 280z manual transmission. Thanks very much
  16. Dear Fellow Z Enthusiasts: I just noticed I am missing one of the through bolts on my 1975 280z alternator, the lower one of the three. These are show on page EE-16 of the FSM in figure EE-35, but the FSM doesn't give a diameter, thread length or length for the bolts. While searching another forum, I found this: The alternator has 2 12mm headed bolts at the base, and a 14mm head bolt on the adjustment bracket on top. The connections on the back are 10 and 8mm. You take the three mounting/adjustment bolts loose, take the wires off the back, and take the alternator up and out to the rear of th
  17. Hello, My alternator has an external regulator and I was wondering if i could convert it to an alternator with and internal regulator ? If I can is there a major benefit to the conversion. I have done alot of research with the local auto parts dealers and some of them say that a 1979 280zx 2+2 is suppose to have an internal regulator and some say external. I have owned the car since it was new and i am under the impression that the Factory knows best but I wanted to make sure. also Could someone give me the proper procedure for removing the alternator. My car has been garaged for the last fiv
  18. Okay so I have a 74 260z that im looking to get as much torque and acceleration as I can. I have the basic 2.6 with dual webers on it with headers and all the emission junk removed. Ive replaced the starter, water pump, radiator fan clutch, upgraded the 4 speed to a 5 speed tranny replaced the brake booster, master cylinder, the clutch master and slave cylinder. What I have left to do is get the alternator rebuilt or replaced, replace the coil, get the headlight harness Dave makes, and replace the gas cap (the one I have doesn't seal and when i take left turns with a full tank of gas i loss my
  19. I have a situation will the car will not charge. Started with a bouncing amp guage, thought bad alt or voltage regulator, replaced both with new. No charging. Car will start and run on just the battery, accessories work. Fusable link at starter has continuity. Took replacement Alt back to parts store got another one (5 day wait) put it on, no difference. Tried old voltage regulator with new alt, no difference. I have continuity to the W/R to the fusebox. So I have old alt and regulator and new alt and voltage regulator. AMP guage will show negative if you turn on accessories but will
  20. A few nights ago I was driving my 1974 260Z home and my lights started to dim, windshield wipers started to slow, and my engine began to choke. At first I thought it was just my battery. So I had my battery jumped and it wouldn't hold a charge. I automatically assumed it was my alternator after checking all my fuses. I replaced the alternator and charged my battery. I was able to drive it for about 45mins. I went home, woke up the next morning, checked the belts and such, and drove it around the block to make sure all was going smoothly. It seemed okay. Once I turned the car off and went back
  21. Hi all A few days ago I upgraded the alternator on my 240Z to a 60amp Bosch model from motorsports (www.zcarparts.com). The kit somes with a cap for the wiring harness to replace where it connected to the voltage regulator that bolts onto the fender. A few interesting things came of this, and I am hoping to get some feedback from you folks. After the install, when I turned the ignition to the "on" setting, before starting the engine, I heard a rapid clicking sound coming from the right rear of the car which wasn't there before. I checked and it was the electric fuel pump making the noise. If
  22. Hello, on my '72 I found out that I've got a bad alternator, so i've picked up a rebuilt replacement, the only problem... the dealer installed york air compressor. The problem I have is how to remove the old one and get the replacement in place. From the back i've got the support brace from the bottom of the compressor to the motor mount and in the front its the radiatior, etc. Now about the A/C system... it's not currently hooked up, I'm missing the idler pulley, but the system appears fine, i'm giving it a 50/50 shot at working, no oil seeping from the compressor and all is still intact. The
  23. I did the alternator upgrade on my 1971 240z which eliminates the Voltage Regulator. The upgrade is on this site from Bambikiller and is posted on another site with pictures. The problem, with the Light switch on I have no side lights or brake lights until the motor is running. Yes I did the Headlight Switch cleanout procedure and its beautiful in there now. Any ideas??
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