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Found 4 results

  1. Hello, A few days ago I removed my valve cover to see how things are looking under there (currently restoring the car) and found that my camshaft looks really bad. Can it be saved? the oil also smells like fuel quiet bad and since I live in Germany It would be hard to get another engine if the bottom end was also bad because the car was run without oil pressure or something.
  2. Well, it was fun while it lasted. Yesterday evening I was driving my 240Z down the alley next to my house on my way to the car wash in anticipation of the Midwest Z show today, when I was hit broadside by a Ford Explorer that was speeding down the intersecting alley. I have not heard from an Insurance company, but the firewall is bent, the dash is broken, and the driver's door is within a 1/4" of the steering wheel. Not a fun time. I am back from the hospital now, recovering from a concussion and whiplash.
  3. I recently rebuilt the engine in my 1971 240Z. The relevant parts: L28 N42 block L24 E88 head (earliest "notched' chamber design) Overbore of 0.030" F54-type flat-top pistons from ITM Isky Racing Stage 2 cam (.480 lift, 280 duration, 232 @ .050 lift duration) New Schneider performance valve springs and hats New rocker arms and lash pads New oil pump for 81 ZX turbo engine As part of the machining the head got a valve job (head already had steel valve seats retro-fitted) and new valve guides. I'm running 91 octane gas (highest we have here in Utah; high altitude) and Valvoline VR1 racing oil. The new camshaft is internally oiled and I installed a new spray bar made for me by Captain Obvious on these forums. Everything in the block was assembled with Permatex's assembly lube while everything in the head got Isky's assembly lube included with the cam. All the bolts and nuts I could find a spec for got torqued to spec. When I first fired her up the radiator was open and had a hose constantly running water. I immediately brought the engine up to ~2000 RPM and let it run for 30 minutes while I monitored oil pressure and temperature. Temp was right in the middle of the gauge while oil pressure was about 80 PSI. She sounded great. A day or two later I took her out for the first drive. Engine revved nicely and was very responsive. I stayed in first gear initially, bringing the engine up to ~3000 RPM and then letting the engine brake the car to help seat the rings. I did this about 10 times, then took her out on the road. Just a minute or two after shifting into second a clunk sounded under the hood. I immediately pulled off the road, popped the hood. The gauges still read in the normal range, but the sound was markedly different and idle was terrible. I head back home when another clunk sounded. I immediately killed the engine and coasted to the side of the road. I tried cranking a few times, but the sound was wrong and the car wouldn't start. Through all of this, no smoke, no leaking fluids, and no extreme gauge readings. The next day I had the car towed home. I pulled all of the spark plugs; none of them show anything unusual and definitely no signs of collision. I pulled the valve cover; camshaft looks good and well-oiled and all friction surfaces appear to be mating nicely. However, the cam timing sprocket had slipped off the cam snout and was no longer engaged with the dowel on the snout. The sprocket hadn't fallen into the abyss of the front cover, but it was riding on the bolt. I didn't see oil at the top of the radiator, and no frothiness in the oil on the dipstick. I figure that the clunks I head were the cam timing sprocket slipping off. I must not have done the final torque to spec on the bolt as I thought I had. I can't turn the cam enough to engage hole 1 on the cam timing sprocket so it appears that the valves and pistons did run at least some interference. However, nothing on the top side of the head shows any signs of trauma. I'm pulling the head tonight and will be pulling the front cover and re-doing the timing this weekend. What specifically should I be checking? I figure the most likely damage is bent valves; what do I need to do to check for this? Any other advice?
  4. Hey all, Here is my 1971 240z it is a series 1 with a build date of November 1970 has the vented rear hatch, emblems, ash tray, etc that go along with a series one. This was the first Z car that I purchased and I learnt a lot from the minor things I did on it. Unfortunately it did not turn out to be the dream car I hoped it would be, sadly all too often the story for many a new Z owner. After suspicions from looking over and working on the car I had it checked out by a local Z shop some of you might know Z Car Garage, San Jose, CA. It turns out there is a twist in the chassis from what appears to be a bad front-end repair. After looking closer it seems the car was hit in the front end at some point as some of the photos show. What to do? I would hate to see this car crushed and the parts go to waste, but do not have the time or space available to part out the vehicle. There are two options I can see selling it to a local Z / Datsun shop if they will take it or selling it outright to someone. With the right skills, time and money someone could restore this car but I have very little of all three to spare on this as a project. Otherwise it would make a very nice parts car to help complete a series 1 restoration or resto-mod. This brings me to the questions of what is it worth? I know I can get $1000 if I scrap it but really do not want to see that happen to this beautiful car. Before answering this question here are a few details on the car: Most body panels appear good but there is surface rust and/or bubbling in the common areas (dog legs, roof window seal, battery tray area). Have a look at the pictures; Lots of series 1 parts available on the car; 1972 L24 motor with round top SU carbs, pertronix ignition and fireblaster coil; Car runs but needs shocks I have driven this car to LA and back no worries, prior to the shocks getting progressively worse; Lots of other stuff look at pictures and ask away. You can also check the photos in My Garage for more photos. I have removed the MSA style strut braces as I was going to sell them separately. I also have a bunch of other parts I was going to sell off. I had originally purchased them for a resto-mod on the car but after hearing the bad chassis news I lost a lot of enthusiasm for working on the car especially as I have another 240z to work on. So looking for opinions, comments and advice
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