Patcon

I believe the dimmer has just 2 wires, correct? If so unplug and stick a jumper wire across it. If the fuse blows it's not in the dimmer. If the fuse holds and the dash lights are on and all the way up, the dimmer is bad...

I'm not sure she's the only one...

I doubt it is the dimmer, some where down stream of there...

Can't upload pics. Tried a work around but it posted an empty reply...

I missed that earlier... You could figure out the connections to jump at the combo switch plug and just bypass the combo switch with jumper wires. that would isolate the combo switch...

It will happen because the government wants the band width for other things. That is how we got digital broadcast tv. They sold the old TV frequencies to companies for other uses...

I believe you have a short somewhere! If it was mine I would unplug all the exterior lights and anything else I could get off the circuit. See if the fuse will hold then. Add one thing back at a time until you figure out where the short is. You could also change some of the exterior bulbs to LED. This circuit has a lot of load compared to the wire gauge Dave Irwins parking light relays will help once you find the problem

Congrats. Lower those scores and put some miles on that car...

Would love to make Toronto but it's not going to happen this year...

I may have found a solution for you...

I agree, I would resweat the pickup line in or use a sealant. It seemed to work pretty well as you didn't seem to have symptoms from the original patch. Clean tanks are getting harder to find...

I think I made some real progress on this last weekend. I will try to do some samples and make some good pictures and I will elaborate on my technique...

Of Course!

Even if I work it out you are always most welcome here!!!

@Diseazd @siteunseen I was looking on classic auto trader the other night. I was blown away by what people were listing cars for. Site I am sure you are under insured and Guy knowing the condition of your cars you are probably close to $10k per car short of where prices seem to be or will be shortly...

I like the grey Z you show first The original 918 is nice too I really like the GTR color and we saw one in Memphis painted that color. It looked really good... The Aston Martin color is cool too. The last two have a lot of metal flake in them. If you decide to do them get someone with experience to shoot the finish paint. It can be tricky to lay down metallic evenly and without blushing and the paint is expensive!

Thanks, Chuck A previous owner did a hack job on the harness. No telling what's been "improved"...

I will print this and try to run the tests on Saturday and report back...

I agree with Zup, the Z can be repaired but it would require a really good frame man and the title will most likely be branded "salvage". It's unfortunate but this car has probably seen it's day unless you are really motivated to fix her...

No! I thought I remembered something like that. I thought the seller should have taken that offer and run to the bank...

So sorry! I hope they make it right...

I agree...

that would be great Steve

Ok, so I worked on this some more today. Some previous owner has been under there hacking it up... Here is the homemade choke relay that is evidently always hot!! straight to the battery... I tried to upload some more but it is giving me an error... I pulled the factory headlight relay that is on the rear side of the passenger side strut tower on the inboard engine side. There are two relays there, I don't know what the other one is yet. I removed all the nasty sticky electrical tape that someone wrapped the harness in and found some melted wires. I will try to post pictures later... I traced the 2 black wires through the harness after I unwrapped it. I found a factory bond a little bit behind the battery. It looked good, like brand new. Took a meter and rang it out from the relay plug to the battery negative. Good continuity. so then I made a jumper wire out of a piece of 12ga solid copper. I tested the plug before jumpering it. With the headlights on I have 12voltls on the Red w/ White. I believe the high beam switch is the turn signal stalk. It moves forward and aft and stays in either position. Can somebody verify that. I couldn't ever get 12v on the Red w/ Black by itself. That may be a function of the relay. When I jumper between Black & Red w/ White I get headlights (High beams) When I try to jumper between Red w/ Black and Ground I don't get low beams. I need to double check the low beam filaments are good. I don't remember if I verified that with a meter. So at this point I believe the relay is bad. Was gonna replace that and see if I can get them to burn... Does that make the most sense or should I rework them now to reduce the load on the switches? @SteveJ