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Everything posted by Patcon
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Grannyknot is right there are factory seams there that join the quarter panel to the roof. You need to be careful working on this joint because you can give yourself lead poisoning if you grind on these. I have had cars that cracked here too. I believe they were driven very enthusiastically and that may contribute to the problem. The lead flexes better than thick body filler. So if the during the repaint they filled these full of Bondo that could contribute to the cracking. Being in California your rust won't spread as fast as in other parts of the country. I would definitely treat the rust spots to prevent spreading. I would also be careful of making the car a garage project. IT can be very hard to stay motivated to finish a car once it comes off the road...If you rework the roof seams, remember, body filler isn't waterproof, good primer is, not rattle can stuff... -
Zcar depot has a good reputation but I have no experience with this damper. It may be overkill unless you plan on making lots of RPM's which gets hard to do with a stroker build @Diseazd Maybe another build thread, I would love to see how you go about your build. A stroker build is on my "bucket list"
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A fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail would help your diagnosis. That way you can watch fuel pressure in real time and compare it to the symptoms. Also if the fuel pump is a later model aftermarket pump and not regulated it could be overpressuring the system resulting richness and plug fowling
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Free is good, just a little far...
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What kind of fuel can you get in Germany? Part of the issue in the US is not all fuels are available in all areas of the country. Conedoger is correct the cam can mitigate the static compression number. Be sure you get the crank checked really well. They need to good and straight. Also I would balance the whole assembly, including the flywheel you plan on using. Don't put an old damper on this new engine, either get one remanned or buy a better one. Also get all your rods and crank magnafluxed for cracks. I would shot peen them too if you have anyone that can do that for you...
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What kind of hammer is that? I haven't seen one like that before...
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Grannyknot That is a fascinating picture. I've never seen that. I wonder if the passenger in the back gets asphyxiated with the exhaust fumes?
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I would think if he was really serious about selling and didn't want his time wasted, he would post more pictures!
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That's a sharp looking engine!
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I don't mind the roadster either. I thought about making one myself at some point. $25k is a little steep though
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We didn't have a Z car to drive to Memphis and may or may not have one this year but we still had a great time and got to meet some great people. It does help to motivate working on the car...
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Jim, You have quite the selection of inspection lights! Very festive...
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I understand . It's a shame they can't be a little more understanding of a man's priorities...
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Yup, I read that and went huhh???
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Come on! They fly planes from the great white North too!
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Ditto on the grinding! Been there done that... If the metal starts blueing too much you are grinding too much or with too much pressure. Your cold temperatures are probably helping you right now
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Check not just valve lash but the condition of the cam at the lobe ends...
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So who thinks they might make it? @Captain Obvious How can you tell how far it is from the window seat??? I'll pick you up from the airport...$475 round trip
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The gaps in marker delete patches are a little large but not awful. If you hold a piece of copper behind the gaps where they are too large the copper backer will help prevent blowing through but not stick to the welds. Also your feed looks a little fast or your heat looks a little low. You are getting a lot of pretty ridgy looking welds without some of the flow they should have...
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That's one way to stay in the lead!
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Look mom, twins!
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That's a good number for a 73'
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Just remember horsepower takes money! How fast do you want to spend?
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