Patcon

Said the old lady as she kissed the cow...

I tend to agree with Zed Head but I don't have any hard facts to back that up. The engines are totally different and I suspect you would need a custom mounting plate made to adapt the 350z tranny; that will cost extra. Clutch and pressure plate are going to be an issue and could require custom pieces, again more cash. Will the 350z tranny even fit in an S30 tunnel? Is the tranny the right length to come up into or close to the shifter hole. How does it mount? How will you have to modify the chassis to hold the new tranny and on and on and on... Having done projects like this myself with mixed results I suggest you don't try to "reinvent the wheel". Go with a tried and true 5 speed option and drive on

Any idea on how to accomplish this?

Thanks, Jim and you are correct unicorns aren't cheap...

I like the cut, very neat. No raggedness...

That's a bargain. Is white zinc the correct plate for these parts and the bolts?

Not a Z setup but very similar http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-DCOE40-TRIPLE-CARBS-FOR-72-76-TRIUMPH-TR6-/132033505582?hash=item1ebdcf692e:g:RCAAAOSwA3dYKNTB&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-DCOE40-TRIPLE-CARBS-FOR-72-76-TRIUMPH-TR6-/132033505582?hash=item1ebdcf692e:g:RCAAAOSwA3dYKNTB&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Triple-42-Dcoe-Weber-Carburetor-/252696130279?hash=item3ad5dcf2e7:g:tpQAAOSwnHZYX7Kd&vxp=mtr A current auction http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-40-DCOE-triple-carburetors-with-manifold-for-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-/311811571850?hash=item48996b008a:g:-yEAAOSwuxFYs2Dp&vxp=mtr Here is a single DCOE #18 for sale http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-40DCOE-18-Carburetor-Triumph-or-Austin-Healey-/302224850275?hash=item465e013d63:g:cSMAAOSwfVpYo0c-&vxp=mtr

If that's what you started with, you've done good!

I suspect more than $1000. I don't have time right now to look through ebay but those are the Italian made bodies (deisreable) the 18's with the manifold and the Redline filters...

Those are some cool looking little pistons. Will be interesting to see how fast that spins up compared to some of your other engine builds... Is Eiji doing the build or is he helping you gather parts and you're doing assembly?

My saying at work is "tuition". When we mess something up, break something or learn the hard way we call that "tuition" ie. the cost of learning...

Open it up and see if it is an LSD or not. It also might have a small metal tag on it calling that out...

Good diamond core bit should eat rebar without an issue but it is slower than casting in place

Furman, that will make your wallet lighter! Furman's in a really nice area

3/4" !!!! Surely they could have gotten closer than that!

A thought for the future, in lieu of blasting them some rust away, Eastwood Rust remover or something similar will remove all the rust but not remove good metal. A little slower but less chance of warpage or holes...

I like the faded "goon" too. Sort of the underdog...

Yes I believe they are carbide and they have very thin sharp points at the ends of the flutes. Cut great but easily damaged

So you're good now? I was going to recommend what it sounds like you already did...

Ahhh, Christmas in February! Enjoy...

Thanks, Those numbers are similar to what I have seen too, and many of those are pretty well beat up. Yours looks pretty straight all things considered. You could also use a rust remover from Eastwood which will not remove any good metal, since the panel isn't really very thick anyway...

Blair is evidently one of the biggest companies in the spot weld tool market. I have used their spot weld cutters but they are very brittle because they are very hard. It is important to keep the bit really square to the work. If not it will chip and be toast. This tool isn't the end all but should be usable on most welds. It will be a little while before I have a need for it I believe. We'll see...

cliff, I think he is asking what is the logic to sealing one side of the plate to the master cylinder and not sealing it to the booster? I don't have a theory...

What is the issue with the old skin? How did you remove it? I believe all of the skins are the same, the internals are different and the door strikes are different I believe...

I suspect the little electric pump is kept in check by the filter's pressure regulator. If the engine isn't consuming enough fuel it is basically "dead headed" but probably isn't much of an issue on a lower pressure pump. It would be on a higher rated pump though... rossiz beat me to it...