Patcon

Do you have an O2 sensor or wideband set up? That would help a lot!

It's because they're in Sugar land, Texas., Just West of Houston... Shipping into or out of these areas is gonna be slow for a while. I have found in the last couple of years every vendor says it's shipped when the label is created. I always have to wait a day or so because I can actually track a package... Speaking of that, Has anyone heard from Stephen yet???

That's cool, Bruce and I have been emailing some recently about rebuild kits

Did you get an email notification that Zup mentioned you?

Did the system work before? If it did, I would make it work again. Controlling the fans from the block water temp is a good way to do it...

That's cool I didn't realize that

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tc/full.aspx?Page=61 72' TR6 $9.00

That is perfect, thanks! C

Even the dog is happy about that...

I do not. Do they have all the parts numbers from the SSS cars or just select parts? Thanks for the reply. Was starting to feel lonely out here on the edge...

Yes, I saw it... I have to get by the post office and get it mailed. should be Thursday or Friday...

I think this group is way too dangerous for a years worth of sh#t, I mean spit!

@240260280

The noise is vibration and some how the shims mitigate the vibration. I don't totally understand it, some things I just accept at face value and move on. I am getting too old to sweat some of this...

That's a lot of money right there. It's amazing how small that car really is...

That was a hard paint job to execute... wonder why he says you will want to repaint. Is that because of taste or are there some flaws you can't see in the pictures?

@zKars

Kats is a forum member who lives in Japan and is very familiar with what was available on a wide range of Datsun models. He also owns some beautiful and rare cars...

You can also use some antisqueal sealant on the back of the pads even with the shims. One that comes to mind is something like CRC disc brake quiet Yes, I would think you should be able to lock all four...

Steering wheel should have dimples instead of punch outs. Vertical defrost lines in the rear glass. Speedo starts at 20mph...there are more

@JLPurcell Might be able to make some recommendations. I believe he has a similar setup

So in the last week or so I have made some more progress Skimmed out the fender with some fiberglass to deal with any pinholes. I may actually fill that section of the fender with fiberglass instead of plastic filler because it will be harder and may hold up better so close to the ground behind the wheel, but it is more difficult to work and finish properly Started figuring out bolt locations... This is the bolt from the lower front link to the crossmember These are the bolts for the tension rod and ball joint These are the bolts for the steering knuckles to strut tower. I couldn't find all of these so I pirated some from the parts pile in the yard. They are evidently NLA and hard to source. I replated these two which were not stellar, the heads look good so the rest really won't show. I will update the caswell thread after a little more experimentation. Also these bolts are evidently different lengths. I thought it was an anomaly but this car was this way and the other series 1 in the driveway had the same setup as well as the spare rack in the parts pile. The longer bolt was in the front bolt hole on the knuckle... I also bought these O rings for the steering knuckles. Evidently these are still being produced but they were like $12 each through Courtesy It is challenging to get the ball joints torqued with no steering installed on the car. I used a strap and tied it to the steering mounts to help keep them from twisting while I torqued them. I have also found it difficult to locate the correct torque values for the suspension. I have a copy of the FSM and a Haynes manual, but I tend to know the parts by other names... I also reworked the washer arrangement like CO explained. That was doable but still a challenge to get the tension rod nut started. I have these on the car at this point too but I had to order some lock nuts (NLA). They are an odd thread pitch and not commonly stocked. I haven't figured out a way to torque them other than to put a wrench on one end and assume both ends torque the same. I haven't come up with a way to hold them with out marking them up... I have most of the front suspension on except the front struts. I have a Tokico setup I bought about 7 years ago... It has the red springs which I will run to start with. I would have gone with the Eibachs if I had known better at the time and I may go with those later if these are too harsh. The directions call for light oil in the shock tube for heat transfer. Do any of you guys add oil when installing the struts? I like the idea if for no other reason than being able to remove them later. I have seen struts corrode into the strut so badly I couldn't remove them... I thought about using a synthetic 0w-30 oil for the tubes but have no idea how much to add, although it might say in the FSM. It wants them filled to like a 1/4" down from the top of the strut but I am not sure you can see that with the strut in the tube... I have also started redoing the upper steering column. I ordered the Kawasaki u joint (Amazon - Motor Master Universal Joint ATV700) to replace the joint in the shaft so I can bead blast and paint it. I have the clips off the old joint but it hasn't wanted to move yet so I have it soaking with some PB blaster There are a number of needle bearings inside the shaft but I am not planning on trying to remove them. I don't really have the right tools to remove them and don't want to risk damaging them with out knowing a suitable replacement is available. I plan on cleaning them well and regreasing the shaft on reassembly. Also I removed the cap off the bottom of the shaft so I could blast and plate it. I removed it so I wouldn't have to worry about beads getting up in the shaft and not being able to get it clean. If you decide to remove this cap there are two spots on the side where it has been staked, I didn't realize it but they are staked into a corresponding hole. They really need to be unstaked if possible. I just drove mine off but it folded the staked areas back. When I went to repair them, they broke off...tuition

They are a Nissan dealership out of Texas that is very supportive of our classic cars. All parts are Nissan OEM...

That should have a vented hatch, correct? Are the other early parts there?