Patcon

Wild guess. Float needles...

Do not mess with the floats!!!!! The car is not too rich for sure! If it drives good, leave it for a while, drive it in traffic and see if your idle issue is gone in traffic. Once you put some miles on it then we will double check you have it fixed. It is getting close... Unless Mark disagrees @Mark Maras

Take good care of the rally clock. They have gotten quite expensive!

I look forward to it. Will you be around at Zconn in October. Would love to have some insight into the track when we get to go out...

Not California Datsun is it?

I agree. That is the plan of action. I am waiting for a coolant pressure tester before we pull the head. By the way I sent Brandon a PM. Haven't heard back yet...

Possible ground issues

I agree the engine will need to be replaced, and it still doesn't tell where the water is going. I will probably try to get this engine running for a little while longer just so the car isn't broken down for an extended period of time. that will buy me some time to build up a better engine

Ok. Here's the latest. I forgot to Martzedcars trick... We did another compression test Dry Wet Leak test #1 142 157 28% #2 120 163 47% #3 128 151 33% #4 140 160 38% For the wet test, I shot 3 squirts of oil into each cylinder. The number came up dramatically. All of this is on a cold engine. I believe the leak test numbers were also influenced by the rings too because the numbers would inch up like the oil was being blown out from around the rings. I am still waiting on a coolant system tester to pressurize the system and look for leaks...

We have seen 280z prices in the 30k dollar range for pristine survivor cars. It is getting harder to find a quality cheap Z car

common rust areas: rear wheel wells, lower rear of front fenders, rockers near the back of the doors, front frame rails, battery tray area, floor boards, spare tire well, ledge under the hatch None are deal breakers. Everything can be fixed with time and money but major battery tray rust, frame rail rust or quarter panel rust are big jobs

I will try to look tomorrow for "C"

Or the jacket broke and got longer somewhere

My biggest concerns would be rust. Not the driving condition. If it runs that would be enough for me. Now lots or rust would be a different story

It's a long shot but you could check yahoo japan but I wouldn't hold out hope. It is easier with the part number

A spring around the hose you are trying to bend can help... I know of no source for the through body seal. Can you determine a part number?

This would suggest the door sills are parallel to the datum line. When you work on a frame rack. The rack can be assumed to be the datum line. So you measure to the rack. If your concrete floor is very flat you could use that. The floor in my shop is not that flat (>1/16"). Strings might work if they are tight enough not to sag. A nice long metal straight edge might be better. A piece of angle iron or tube stock. I have a laser level but I don't think I would trust it to be accurate enough for this kind of work...

I have used this on an S10 I own. We have put 80k on it. No real issues. FWIW It could be a clue though to your fluid loss. Might not be a new condition...

How about leveling with the doors sills, front to back and left to right, then back check with these other areas you picked out Don't use the seams in doors. Get some small blocks to level off of and use a long straight edge to span across.

Good! If your measurements are still off, then you will need to spread it before you weld it up. Be careful to not pour the heat to it as you weld or you may get some unintended results. Try to replicate the factory dimensions as close as you can.

If you don't spread it the hood will probably not fit. The engine bay sides are bowing in from the car being on the rotisserie. Get it off the rotisserie and recheck it. I would block it up without using the front of the car. If you have to spread it you check measurements diagonally to say the hood latch to make sure it's square. Did you find the FSM diagram with the dimensions in MM?

That's a really bad idea! They are much stronger as tube type assemblies. If it was that easy to make it right, the factory wouldn't have gone to all the trouble in the first place. Always remember, car manufacturers are notoriously cheap. The don't install "extra" or "unnecessary" parts

Also I believe there is a chassis ground near where you're working. If you damaged it; it could make your lights wonky as the pump current looks for the path of least resistance. The "Sparkys" taught me that.

We meet a couple of guys that have been to a lot of Mitty's when they gave us a lift up one of the hills. They said there have been a number of bad wrecks in that area of the track. The cars can evidently get airborne and flip there. Especially if they try to pass...

I saw that car on Saturday. Looks like the wreck might have been on the back straight away...