Patcon

Too bad. I know with aluminum you could rebuild an aweful lot. I don't know that much about Magnesium

20k! It's going to take a special buyer to pony up at that level I think

I don't know that it will do any harm. There is not cat to overheat and as long as the car doesn't run lean which would make a lot of heat. It will probably be down a little on power. Will be interesting to see what some other guys think...

or drive a straight drive!!! Well done teaching you son some skills!!!!

What would you even do with a wheel that the entire lip is gone? Is there anyone that rebuilds these wheels? It seems they could be worth the time and effort...

Thats just pre-salted veggies! Enjoy... ?

If you do drop the tank, try to get your hands on a flexible camera scope. It sounds like you might have access to one of those. It will make checking the tank easier. The other option is cutting it open, which would be my last resort. You should have access to the pick up lines from the fuel level sender hole, but I believe there is a tank baffle that blocks a direct view of them

You're being political again.. ?

I saw your car there...

I suspect the window is binding up some how. The gear box can wear out causing binding, but more likely one or more of the tracks is loose and allowing the window to jam in the track. If you hold the window with one hand can you roll it up?

Those parts look correct, best I can tell

It's a shame you couldn't get something wider! ?

I could, That would also add a nice touch for the bar area that I need to build down there...?

I will be interested to see how you fabricate the inside corners on the quarter panels. Those areas are very thin on the original quarters...

Strokers in Z motors are normally both increased bore and increased stroke. Almost everything above 2.9L is a stroker of some form. Cliff is just stirring the pot some. There are many variations on the Z stroker motor...

Really need a frame rack to twist it or some good jack stands some "D" rings on the concrete floor and some good chain pullies. With some creativity it can be done without a frame rack, just slower and a little more difficult

Yeah, that kind of stuff drives me crazy! Especially since I didn't take enough pictures of mine when I took it apart....?

Cliff!!! I never knew that about you... ?

Find the other thread on dash light LED's. there is a lot of good info int it... @Captain Obvious

If the L24 is a stroker then the cankshaft will have a "V07" on one of the counter weights. Also the block normally has to be clearanced for the bid end rod bolts to clear. It probably won't be a 3.0 stroker unless they punched a big hole in it! I, like Zed head, don't know if you can punch an L24 that large. Most people start with L28 blocks to make stroker motors...

Don't mess with it, if there's no problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not gonna debate that! Bumpers are the last thing I think about when doing a car. They are really just pretty jewelry on these cars...

If it ain't broke, don't break it!!!

The SU's have a pretty high limit, so that's not my first thought. there are guys racing with them. My first thought is you have a restriction somewhere. If you're comfortable with rigging some kind of temporary fuel source and see if the problem goes away. I have rigged up systems with a 1 gallon fuel can. If it goes away, work your way towards the tank to id the problem. If it doesn't go away, then I would assume it's in the carbs, maybe the fuel level is set too low or the banjo filters are dirty. Some testing would really help to isolate it.

I don't remember what I paid but I don't think it was that much. Check Courtesy just for a point of reference. I guess one of my thoughts is the float needs a specific bouyancy to work properly. So I didn't want to try to engineer a work around...