Patcon

I don't believe so. He is paying for a very nice interior that he will probably modify. He is paying for a paint job that he will probably have to redo once he adds the flairs, air dam and splitter. He will probably also do extensive work under the hood or even re-power the car. So half of what he is paying for is getting redone. Now he might have to be selective on what kind of car is the right car for this project but I am sure that can be over come. The car he linked to is heavily modded. Stripped interior, all carbon fiber, carbon fiber rear bumpers, SR20DET drive train. If he goes this route, which is fine, he will use maybe 30% of what he paid for up front. If I wanted to build a restomod I would look for a 72 or 73 or possibly even a 260z with minimal rust. A little under the battery tray would be ok if the frame rail is good. A little in the floor would be acceptable. Maybe a little in a dogleg. Frame rails would have to be good and the rockers. If the wheel arches have some rust, who cares. Cut it out on the flare line and close them up. Add the flares and move on. I am sure I could find this car for way less than $16,000. I could get the repairs done professionally and might could even squeeze the finished paint work in there too. Which would put me money ahead of paying 16k up front then adding body work and paint on top of that I mean, I just found with a quick search, a really clean 260 with no rust and a L28 turbo already installed for $10,500...

Either verify with a mechanical gauge or not! At least 4 people have told you, the gauge is not accurate... The advise is free, but from the sounds of it, it has more value than what you have to pay your mechanic. The people on these forums know these cars many times better than almost any mechanic!

If your dash matches close enough in texture then a stock glove box door could probably be made to work. The interior half of the glove box door would be really nice though because the hinges tend to fail over time

What Zkars said ^^^^ Verify first. the gauge is just a guideline. Also I don't think low oil pressure is gonna affect drive-ability. When it does, you'll know it and the engine will die shortly after!

If you are going to cut the wheel wells to run flairs you might as well start with a rougher car. I totally agree. I like some of the restomods that get done but there are better cars that can be used for this type of setup. Really clean cars are getting rarer and will have more value if they aren't heavily modified. Once you start cutting on the car, it's very hard to go back!

He was making a hypothetical. Doesn't matter how much the oil pan holds. Only the level relative to the crank shaft.

Vin is 31626 5/71

I would replace the radiator if you have a spare laying around. Or the radiator cap... I suspect trash from the block has blocked up the new radiator.

Hopefully that will solve the leaking. Does the pinion you have make it read 5 mph fast? If so I would leave it. Nice cushion to have.

Cool! It would be nice to see some West coasters @Mike @Zed Head @Mark Maras and others... You all could compete for furthest attendee

I did some searching too and found a lot of references to wintergreen oil. One post spoke about mixing about 4 oz of Wintergreen oil in a pot of water and boiling the parts for about 40 minutes. Evidently gave good sustainable results. Another was soaking parts in lacquer thinner mixed with wintergreen oil. Just keep in mind Wintergreen oil is very toxic! I found 8oz of oil on ebay for a little more than a $1 an ounce

Have you tried Gummi Pflege? I remember it being brought up in the past. I had thought I might try it on some pieces I was gonna use because they are unavailable.

I would be in option #1. Now how I would go about that is an issue. The original design has some weaknesses that are easily overcome with headlight relays. Also everything is already the right length. I am thinking I will unwrap the harness I'm using. Visually check it, clean the connections and rewrap with loom tape. Possibly do some voltage drop or resistance tests. Maybe get new plugs from Vintage Connections (I believe that's the source)

@SteveJ

@nix240z

I haven't tried it yet in a Z, but the diesel engine oils tend to have more detergents anyway which could help clean up an older engine. Although sometimes that can cause more harm than good... I have been running Rotella in my ski boat's V-8

@siteunseen @Namerow Thanks Guys, That appears to be the correct thread. It's about 3 years old and I posted a couple of times in it, but don't even remember it. I am glad someone else here has some semblance of a memory.

No problem. Glad I could help

$30,000 at a minimum, unless you plan on doing a lot of it yourself

What about an alloy makes it rust worse than another alloy? I worked in a chemical plant at one time and they made acid based dyes among other things. The filter presses looked like that rotor. Valve handles looked like they were made out of old grape vines

I agree, many of these panels from these vendors could be better! On the other hand I am glad they exist at all! They were developed for a niche market when these cars were still relatively cheap. There was not a lot of money to be made and many of these panels were developed because an individual saw a need and filled it for himself then offered it to the Z community. I imagine a great many cars have been saved from the crusher because these parts exist, even if they need some massaging to fit well. I would say that's a good thing overall.

That looks like a good way to get hurt! I would suspect the milkyness was from UV but it could have been water intrusion under the clear coat Sorry Rich for the thread jack...

I like the red valve cover!

Also there is a groove between the "s" and the "u" in the old font, and the "D" has the plastic removed from the upper left corner in the older version.

It can do both, as well as, let go like some Hondas and Chevys have done over the years. Did your boat have automotive clear coat on it? Not gelcoat? Also like most everything more expensive clears perform better. The high solids clears are better but are harder to spray and can get quite expensive