Patcon

But inside and out, full color change?

They didn't do that at the factory either. The only reason I could even imagine that would be needed would be if you were using a bunch of used parts you thought might settle in over that 100 miles. I suspect pretty much all of that will be new on your build so it seems it would be a useless step

Nobody has any answers for me? Feeling all alone over here in the corner...

I don't know if you ever said or not but I assume after see your dads and your other builds you are going to strip the car all the way down for the color change?

Who did you buy it from?

I would use the self lockers. If I remember correctly they require a lot of torque. I can't imagine them needed to be retorqued after 100 miles. They didn't do that from the factory...

I found these two links from rubber companies. Evidently EPDM is the choice for brake fluid https://www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-material-quick-reference.htm http://www.efunda.com/designStandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=none&SC=Brake Fluid Lot's of info in there for all kinds of chemicals!

If he has dual Webers they would not be my best choice for a Z. They work but they are fairly complicated. Nothing like a good set of simple SU's. For an SU swap you would need the SU's w/ the connecting linkage, air cleaners, intake manifold, balance tube, low pressure fuel pump and some fuel fittings, maybe the throttle linkage...

Thanks, I ended up using #0 steel wool. It worked really well but it does tend to turn your hands black. I wiped them down Eastwood Diamond clear. We'll see how they hold up...

What CO said! Also are your spindle pins new or used? If they're used you can buff them on a buffing wheel to make them nice and smooth. Many times they will shine right back up if the chrome isn't compromised.

Are you getting spark on a plug? If you shoot some ether in it will it bump over?

Not necessarily. Most shops have a brand they work with and most brands make good paints and price point paints

I also meant to say the brake and fuel lines are really a pain in the butt! If you are going to replace your existing lines, straighten the existing lines the best you can and remove them without damaging them. Then you can use them as patterns. If you don't have a pattern line, then it works best to keep the material rolled up. If you are doing one of the long lines that goes into the engine bay, then start from the front. You can make the line working towards the rear and cut them to length after it is pretty much bent.

Here is the brake switch Sorry about the rotation. When they upload they are oriented wrong. Tried several things but no luck. @Mike Here is the brake switch. I was not sure if the little crack would be an issue, but everything appears to be ok. The parts plated out fine...since the copper didn't plate it is still isolated from the outside. The central plunger is steel and appears to have a black chromate finish on it. The little grey hats are not steel. I'm not sure if they are metal or not. They might be aluminum. There was something that l thought was grease in the center of the switch. Does that sound correct? Should I put grease in the center of the switch on reassembly? Will it interfere with the circuit? I would like to replace the o rings in the assembly. Any thoughts on which of these three would be the best for dealing with the brake fluid? Also speaking of brake fluid, what are your all thoughts on what brake fluid to run. Since the system will be starting fresh I could run what ever I want. I like the idea of silicone fluid to make storage and maintenance easier. I have heard though that silicone doesn't do as well with heat, like track days. So which what would be best to use? @gnosez What is Jeff's proper user name?

So I made some more progress today. Worked on finalizing fuel and brake lines. Plated parts during this time. Disassembled the proportioning valve and the brake circuit switch These are Fedhill lines. I flared all of these with an Eastwood flaring tool that was loaned to me by a generous car guy! I bent this in a multiple of ways. Hands and thumbs, the handle from the flaring tool, a piece of 1 1/2" pipe and this flaring tool shown below Thanks Rich for the excellent photo documentation! @motorman7 Can some one ID this maser for me? Also where does this bracket go? I am guessing it goes on this section of line near the differential mount. The Fedhill material shines up very easily with #0 steel wool. I then ragged it with some Eastwood satin Diamond Clear. We'll see how it ages... Here is the proportioning valve broken down. I believe this is the original one but can't confirm it. It has an E4100 tag on it. Car parts manual says it should be E4101 so I am not positive. It also has the dimple seal at the top of it. There is some corrosion on the bottom of the push rod. Don't know if this is gonna cause a problem or not????

The squealing in the engine bay is probably a slipping alternator belt. Carbs...? @240260280

Look at some of their finished work. Will they cut and buff the car for the quoted price? Talk to a local paint supplier "quietly" and see if they will give you any recommendations. Don't ask in front of other customers!

If I were gonna go to the trouble to strip the car and start from scratch. I wouldn't totally reproduce the factory type paint. I would: Strip the car to metal Treat the metal to phosphate the rust Epoxy coat the bare metal car Primer & filler Primer again If you want a factory looking paint use a single stage paint in a factory color

What did you shine the lines with? Steel wool?

I was having a hard time fully understanding the question. Probably due to the translation effect

That may be the easiest idea

With the glare and reflections in the pictures, it's really hard to tell what it really looks like. I wouldn't replace it if I thought I could make it look good. Welding in a section sometimes gives you more problems than it's worth. A good panel beater can probably make a repair that is invisible to all but a well trained eye, but is it worth it to sink that kind of money into a repair that won't be very obvious ($1,500 - 2000 just guessing). If you are really obsessive about the car being perfect you need to spend about 15-20k to get a really clean car with a well documented history.

I sort of agree with this statement. You sort of have to pick your poison. A little fender bender, rust or significantly more expensive. The car I am doing now has similar damage. Once it's put together it's not nearly as noticeable. Won't be able to see it once the hood is down and I'm blowing around that corner.

I know, that's why I don't own one... I figured even if I bought a project I couldn't afford to source the parts...

That's a nice car. I have thought about one of those several times...