Patcon

As an aside, someone was asking recently about fuel tank drain threading. On the tank I have the drain plug is 1/2 x 20, which seems odd. I don't know if there is a close metric pitch or if this is truly a non-metric fitting

So I have been working on getting the car back down on the ground. That has meant I have been working on getting struts assembled the front backer plates use philips screws 6mm x 1.0 by maybe 10 Brake rotors bolt to the hubs with 10mmx1.25 by 18mm ? I have been plating hardware as I go and finally installing parts that I have had on the shelf for 6 years or more Work on the one of the rear struts too Did all new wheel studs while I was at it. Surprisingly I think Courtesy probably has the best price on the studs. Cheaper than where I sourced them. The rear backer plates also use 10mmx1.25 to bolt the backer plate to the hub. I am going to go ahead and convert to rear disc. I thought about converting later but figured it was just as easy to convert now I may have a similar problem as Mathew. We'll see when I torque the rear hubs. The seem like they are going to lock down when I torque them. @Captain Obvious I figured I would torque them once the car is down on it's tires

Pulled the head last weekend I think that might be our water leak #1. I checked it with a machinist rule and it's out of spec. Took it to the machine shop and he said it looks like someone had been belt sanding on it. So hopefully we will get it back the end of next week. Broke one of the bolts as the thermostat too Painted another one of his doors too

I love having the barrel plater!!! I did these today in one batch. Load em up and let it run for like an hour. I have found when my plate comes out really shiny, I blue dip for a minute or so, maybe less but I have to color dip for as much as 7 minutes to get color. I assume it's because the really shiny zinc is just harder and doesn't take color as well. I have also found when my plate isn't shiny I can turn up the current and the plate will brighten up. I have run as much as .32 per inch.

Very nice. You might need a throttle intake boot or more silicone! The numbers look excellent

Too bad. I know with aluminum you could rebuild an aweful lot. I don't know that much about Magnesium

20k! It's going to take a special buyer to pony up at that level I think

I don't know that it will do any harm. There is not cat to overheat and as long as the car doesn't run lean which would make a lot of heat. It will probably be down a little on power. Will be interesting to see what some other guys think...

or drive a straight drive!!! Well done teaching you son some skills!!!!

What would you even do with a wheel that the entire lip is gone? Is there anyone that rebuilds these wheels? It seems they could be worth the time and effort...

Thats just pre-salted veggies! Enjoy... ?

If you do drop the tank, try to get your hands on a flexible camera scope. It sounds like you might have access to one of those. It will make checking the tank easier. The other option is cutting it open, which would be my last resort. You should have access to the pick up lines from the fuel level sender hole, but I believe there is a tank baffle that blocks a direct view of them

You're being political again.. ?

I saw your car there...

I suspect the window is binding up some how. The gear box can wear out causing binding, but more likely one or more of the tracks is loose and allowing the window to jam in the track. If you hold the window with one hand can you roll it up?

Those parts look correct, best I can tell

It's a shame you couldn't get something wider! ?

I could, That would also add a nice touch for the bar area that I need to build down there...?

I will be interested to see how you fabricate the inside corners on the quarter panels. Those areas are very thin on the original quarters...

Strokers in Z motors are normally both increased bore and increased stroke. Almost everything above 2.9L is a stroker of some form. Cliff is just stirring the pot some. There are many variations on the Z stroker motor...

Really need a frame rack to twist it or some good jack stands some "D" rings on the concrete floor and some good chain pullies. With some creativity it can be done without a frame rack, just slower and a little more difficult

Yeah, that kind of stuff drives me crazy! Especially since I didn't take enough pictures of mine when I took it apart....?

Cliff!!! I never knew that about you... ?

Find the other thread on dash light LED's. there is a lot of good info int it... @Captain Obvious

If the L24 is a stroker then the cankshaft will have a "V07" on one of the counter weights. Also the block normally has to be clearanced for the bid end rod bolts to clear. It probably won't be a 3.0 stroker unless they punched a big hole in it! I, like Zed head, don't know if you can punch an L24 that large. Most people start with L28 blocks to make stroker motors...