Patcon

You do have to very careful to graft the clip on in the right place. A frame rack would be best, like shown in Diseazed's pictures. Also there is a pdf somewhere that has all the frame dimensions so you can verify rail locations. There is a plan view and a side view. You can probably find it with Google images

Will that interfere with the under dash AC vents? We have one we plan on installing.

I believe, edit the post, highlight the picture and hit the delete key...

I suspect it will work but I also suspect there will be lots of fastener locations in the engine bay that move based on the differences in the underhood components. The radiator support may actually be different than the 240z one also. It will work, just may have a different layout. The hoods and fenders are pretty much the same on all S30's so you aught to be able to hang them on any s30 structure. The lower valances and bumpers varied a lot over the production period On a separate note don't throw away anything. That early style hubcap has pretty good value, even though many people go to after market wheels

You are the man! Went back down there and took the nozzle out and piston slides as it should. 19mm wrench to loose the nozzle holder. Put a philips down in the piston to hold it to the bottom. Thread the mixture nut all the way up. Center everything up and tighten the nozzle holder lock nut. Works like champ now!!! Got a beer waiting on you in Atlanta!!! You are correct and the links are great! I already put some possibilities in my watch list. May actually go with the TR6 choke cable because it's reasonably priced. As a side note where exactly is the choke cable supposed to mount?

If I remember correctly it operated correctly before disassembly. I wondered if the previous owner had mixed up the domes and then compensated by torquing the screws down. I thought I might try the other dome after I get it clean. Really frustrated by this! It looks good now but isn't gonna work the way it is... Why can't it just be simple? @240260280 Any ideas Philip?

The needle is brand new. I thought about taking it out and try that to at least isolate the problem. I added some oil to the dampener chamber. The dome can only go on one way. I tried the tighten while lifting the piston technique, that is how I isolated the issue. There is nothing I plated that should cause this issue...

OK, I need some help now. I am working on Cody's SU's. I got the front one apart, cleaned, replated and reassembled. The screws were stupid tight on the dome when I disassembled it. The problem I have is when I tighten the dome down the piston doesn't want to slide. If I leave them loose it's fine. So now what? Was trying to get these done by Christmas...

2 sets

@Diseazd

Mark made my point very eloquently. You will basically have to reengineer the car to get a dependable car with those HP levels. Also keep in mind you can't just source a fuel pump that will work for 500+ Hp that is good for your current level of 250HP (or what ever). It needs to move more fuel than that. You can't run overly large injectors for a similar reason, you lose resolution and accuracy when large injectors are asked to deliver low volumes of fuel. That means you have to buy multiple injectors and fuel pump and misc odds and ends as you upgrade the car. As you do this you have to retune and retune... I speak from experience that this kind of project can be really frustrating and very costly. 50/50 odds on whether you ever actually get a dependable 500Hp Z to where you want it to be even after pouring piles of cash into... This is very good advise! Doable but still not cheap, and even at 300Hp you are gonna break stuff finding the weak links...

You're way over doing it! These cars are really light, especially compared to the cars you just listed. Look up the curb weights. You can put all the power you want in a Z but it becomes really difficult to get it to hook up. Also the chassis is not designed for that kind of power. It takes big money to make that power and it takes big money to upgrade everything else that it demands, chassis, brakes, tranny, rear end, half shafts, drive shafts, etc. If you have 30 or 40k burning a hole in your pocket then ok...

Thanks Jim, If you find the stock 510 cable, post up some pictures, maybe I can fabricate something. I would also like to see your final choke cable as well as your 240z center console hybridization. Cody wants a console but I don't have a plan for that yet... FYI I was able to get some misc parts and a heat shield from Z Therapy...

@zKars I have two questions: What are you doing for a choke cable for your new carbs? It appears the heat shield is installed behind the carb and before the insulator. Did you put a gasket on each side of the heat shield? Did you put a gasket between the insulator and the manifold? Well maybe three questions...

I probably fall on the side ITB's. I love the sound of triples but there is something nice about being able to dial a setup in just right and account for temperature and a half dozen other variables. As well as easily tune the AFR's with a fuel map...Get in and go...

That's a lot of expensive metal, toast!!!! I would hate to be in the truck when that happened. It basically split the block into pieces. Funny to watch the crank wind down with the rods flapping everywhere.

I would think a job from scratch would cost more than either kit. Your best bet is to buy a good kit and get it professionally installed. They can massage it to make it fit good with heat and experience...

I have seen a lot of burned out cars and that aluminum melts pretty quick. It took me a minute to get oriented. I saw the gas tank and was like the rear end is upside down. I thought maybe it was two pieces, but the flat blob made it make sense...a shame really...

The whole car is upside down. That big white flat blob is what's left of the head after they scraped it off the concrete!!!

Thanks for the response. That is a good idea...

That sounds like quite the memory!!!

Anyone?

Wide Open Throttle

You shouldn't be such a good customer...

The heat lamp aught to help keep the shop warm.