Patcon

Cody's Goon

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    22 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

    Drool!  Nice work... wish you were closer to teach me!

    We have a guest house and you have lots of frequent flier miles...;)

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    This is how it currently sits.

    20171203_110148.jpg

    It runs and he has been driving it to work some. We have had a loss of power problem recently. I took the carb off and checked it and we don't seem to be loosing fuel flow. So I suspect water in the fuel. So we added some gas dry. We have the hatch off right now and we are working on getting it changed over to orange. We are doing all the individual panels one at a time then we will pull all the remaining glass and spray the body of the car and have the headliner redone and reinstall the glass. WE can get away with this because it is a solid color and if you shake the paint well, the colors should match ok. This way he can drive the car as we paint it. Instead of breaking it down for years like I have done with my projects. Plus it has the added advantage of being the only car like this for 100 of miles. So if he acts stupid I will probably hear about it..

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    He has also grown some in the time we've had the car...:o

     

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    Is that a factory mirror on Cody's car? I would like to find another one like it for the other side...

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    On 12/4/2017 at 9:03 AM, Patcon said:

    Is that a factory mirror on Cody's car? I would like to find another one like it for the other side...

    Anyone?

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    So we spent the last few weeks working on the hatch. It turns out it has been hit hard at some point. Right in the license plate. Some one did a fair job of reshaping it but it still needed work. We worked on it for a couple of weeks. I looked some at replacements but they were really expensive for some thing in much worse shape. It is really hard to get the crease lines right when you have no metal to guide you. I shot color on the inside a week or so ago.

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    Color on the outside on Thursday and clearcoat on Friday

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    Still getting tons of trash in my clear coat. I think I am going to redesign the booth to try to eliminate some of that.

    We cut and buffed today. Sanding on clear coat is down right spooky. I hate it...:blink:

    This is wet sanded 1200, then 2000 grit. Used a cutting compound then a polish at about 1500 rpm's

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    This is where we ended up. 99% of the trash is gone. It's looks good unless you get really close and at the right angle

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    All of the "orange peel" is gone. I didn't have much to begin with, which helped

    Buffed all the hardware and he reassembled the hatch. I had plated all the latch hardware over the last few weeks

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    We will have to source new license plate lights because one of these is badly dented. I will also need to source the exterior hatch vent pieces...

     

     

    Edited by Patcon
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    On a separate note. I need some pointers on the rear hatch glass. We have a new rear window seal from Baz at Datsport in Australia. I need to get the trim off the old rubber seal. Then I need polish the glass and reassemble.

    Questions:

    Do I install the trim first like on a Z?

    Do I use a sealant under the weatherstrip?

    Do I use a string like on a Z?

    20171230_103701.jpg

    This is the trim. It snaps onto the seal somehow...

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    This is the coolest project! 510’s just make me smile.  :)

    My son had an orange 510 too......good luck Cody....it’ll be special.

    EC60801E-D9C8-4070-B10C-439777C2BB54.jpeg

    Edited by Diseazd
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    14 hours ago, Patcon said:

    Cody told me this is his new favorite mug

    That better be southern sweet tea (at least that's what we call it up here). You probably just call it "tea".    LOL

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    17 hours ago, S30Driver said:

    I like his color choice for the wagon!  

    What's he drinking in that sharp mug?

    Goat's milk... LOL

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    Well now I'm mad!!!!! :angry:

    I was buffing a piece of rear glass trim for Cody's hatch. Buffer took it and bent it. I don't have the skills to straighten it...

    Haven't been able to even find one for sale yet...

     

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    I did the same thing with a piece of my front window trim. Could not straighten it.This is what it looked like after I stopped the buffer. 

    IMGP1038.jpg

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    Yikes!!!  Looks like you set the buffer speed to 52,000 RPM.  :o

    I've never used a buffer on trim pieces and am now afraid to do so in the future.

    Dennis

     

     

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    2 hours ago, Patcon said:

    Well now I'm mad!!!!! :angry:

    I was buffing a piece of rear glass trim for Cody's hatch. Buffer took it and bent it. I don't have the skills to straighten it...

    Haven't been able to even find one for sale yet...

     

    Have you posted over at ratsun.net There seems to be more 510 folks there. 

     

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    3 hours ago, 240dkw said:

    I did the same thing with a piece of my front window trim. Could not straighten it.This is what it looked like after I stopped the buffer.

    Those are nothing but a big razor blade spinning around!!!

    I bought a new dual speed Eastwood buffer 1800/3600 rpm. The low speed allows you to buff plastic lenses. It also allows you to buff stuff like this at a lower speed. I should have turned it down sooner.

    2 hours ago, psdenno said:

    Yikes!!!  Looks like you set the buffer speed to 52,000 RPM.  :o

    I've never used a buffer on trim pieces and am now afraid to do so in the future.

    Dennis

    You do have to be careful! I read on another forum that a member let a piece of trim get away from him and it basically took his nose off! :blink:

    1 hour ago, JSM said:

    Have you posted over at ratsun.net There seems to be more 510 folks there. 

    I tend to avoid the 510 forums. They tend to be really course! and sometimes stupid cheap! The realm isn't too bad but Ratsun seems to be more so.

    Anyway I stewed over this for a while and read a bunch of threads on other forums. One of the problems is that the trim is really thin! Unlike the trim on other classic cars which tends to have some thickness which makes repair easier. So at this point I have a 10 -15 degree bend in the trim about 6" from the end. It's bent in the flat direction not the easily corrected thin direction.

    So I figure it's trash any way so how can I mess it up??? :P So we broke out the MAP gas. I had already tried shrinking the bulging area to straighten the piece to no avail. So I clamped the short end in the vise and heated it cherry red and stretched it down to straighten it

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    Took 4 or 5 tries and I ended up with this

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    Now these pieces are stainless so they can be buffed out. The profile of the piece is sort of like a "J" with the hook of the J going in a groove in the weatherstrip. The leg of the J lays flat over the face of the rubber seal with a metal hem on the outside edge to finish it.

    It is easiest to slide it in and the corner pieces act like sockets to connect all the corners

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    This is what the repaired piece looks like now. Serviceable but not pretty. Ok at 10 feet. I will keep my eyes open for some better trim. If I had the rights tools I probably could make it perfect. You just need a trim anvil, a lot of jewelers hammer and a lot of time

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    Much happier now. LOL Happy New Years!!!!

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    Tomorrow we will probably try to get the glass into the hatch. Hope that gets 2018 off to a good start...

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    Nice work on working that trim piece. Only thing I would point out is that stainless sometimes degrades or loses it's stainless-ness when it gets hot. I'm not sure how hot it needs to be for this to happen, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's not as corrosion resistant in that area after the torch.

    Not that it really matters though! You didn't have much to lose, and even if it's not as good as it used to be, it's still way better than crinkled!      :)

     

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    3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

    Nice work on working that trim piece. Only thing I would point out is that stainless sometimes degrades or loses it's stainless-ness when it gets hot. I'm not sure how hot it needs to be for this to happen, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's not as corrosion resistant in that area after the torch.

    Not that it really matters though! You didn't have much to lose, and even if it's not as good as it used to be, it's still way better than crinkled!      :)

     

    I thought that might be the case too on whether it will rust or not.

    I don't know why that is but I have heard of that. I guess some of that depends on what alloy is used

    I sort of had the same thought. No where but up from here...

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    On 12/31/2017 at 8:34 PM, Patcon said:

    This is what the repaired piece looks like now. Serviceable but not pretty.

    I'd call that 'patina' !

    Great job straightening it out.  I think I would have binned it.

    There's a YouTube video that shows a detailed restoration of a piece of kinked stainless.  The piece was hammered, flat-filed, then taken through a sequence of sanding and buffing.  Impressive results.  You might consider whether flat-filing (without hammering) would be a remedy.

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    1 hour ago, Namerow said:

    I'd call that 'patina' !

    Great job straightening it out.  I think I would have binned it.

    There's a YouTube video that shows a detailed restoration of a piece of kinked stainless.  The piece was hammered, flat-filed, then taken through a sequence of sanding and buffing.  Impressive results.  You might consider whether flat-filing (without hammering) would be a remedy.

    Thanks

    I watched several of those videos, but the trim they are working with looks multiple times thicker than what these Datsuns used. You just don't have much thickness to work with. It has to be very close to perfect before you start removing metal or you will cut through.

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