Patcon

True...

If you got a back fire out the intake manifold, you need to check your ignition timing. It probably needs to be advanced some

There was a time when unions did some great things for the American worker, but some unions failed to realize that the well wasn't infinitely deep. If you take too much, you hurt the business and the members... I know all about the construction issue. Spent all day planing lumber and making some timber frames. I'll be 50 next year...need to work my way out of the field and into the office. We'll see if that plays out.

I don't know about Alabama manufacturers but here at the BMW plant they pay pretty well. I know a number of people that work there with high school educations or GEDs that make 40 -50k a year assembling cars. The engineers make alot more than that. The benefits are pretty good too. Not only that but they bring in lots of high paying support industry to supply just in time parts.These companies tend to look for states with good available employees that can do the jobs with low unionization pressure...

My wife is excellent! When I built my shop, she told me it wasn't big enough, but I couldn't make it bigger because of the property set back lines. She also keeps her eyes open for Z cars. Many times I have to talk myself out of buying cars she has found, even when she says to buy it...

Nice car. I think for what you have that's a good price...

The guys who use to paint for me used Bulldog on air dams. As far as painting, rattle can paint really isn't very durable and will come off with some solvents. Some paint shops can mix up colors in catalyzed spray cans. The best thing is to really just get it painted or paint it yourself. You can probably get someone like Maaco to paint it for you cheap if it's off the car. Your could bulldog it first, so then they could do a final once over sand, degrease and spray.

What Steve said!!!! ^^^^ Check your voltage with a meter at the headlight plugs. If you get them 12v's they will be much brighter. Corrosion at the connections is the enemy.

That looks a lot like my shop. I will have to work on a getting a pic

That aught to be really fast!

Nope, we'll see how the Tide does...

The stock carbon the 510 has a glass float window. IT has lines in it for the float level. One time when it acted up I told him to shut it down immediately and verify there is fuel in the carb. He said there was... My best guess at this point is trash in the float bowl even though I can't see any or an ignition issue?

Yes, that is possible. He says the hazards are dead too. We don't have a fuse box cover so I need to see if we have a dead fuse. I know his brake lights still work.

That would be great! Looking forward to seeing the slimmer new version of Steve!! or I could ship you the spare switch you rebuilt to check out for me and we could make sure it is correct. Then we could just plug it back in to see if it goes away...

Ok, so I need some diagnostic help. Cody's 510 has been acting up lately. He describes it as trying to feed it gas but it won't go and the engine doesn't speed up. I have been working from the position that it's a fueling issue. I removed the carb a while back and tried to clean it but opening up the glass float bowl was difficult and I didn't want to break it so, I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled it. Some times it drives great, sometimes it acts like it's starving. We have replace the fuel filter in the engine bay. So today we drained the gas tank looking for rust or water in the tank. Nothing! The fuel looked perfect... We did replace the dizzy a while back with a used match box dizzy. We don't remember if we had this problem before we replaced the dizzy... Ideas?

Guess what??! The signals don't work again. Nothing flashes... I don't know yet if anything lights up...

Steve does nice work!

@Mike W

Check all your grounds...

Yeah, for short term use they don't look bad. It takes as long to figure out how to adjust the welder properly as it does to physically weld. Just remember when you add heat to a panel it expands. If you don't let it cool enough between welds it will warp or oil can. Disepyon had some good advise and pictures in his build thread. Hew went back and dollied his weld seams to make it right. You just have to learn to look at the panel and know whether the metal needs to shrink or grow. Shrinking is discing or torch and cooling. Growing means dolly work...

You're killing me

Thanks for the reply They are proud of that aren't they!!! I was thinking I could use that on my son's 510 but the back plate is already drilled so it won't work. Might look on the ITG website for some options

That looks really good! Probably more durable than my paint too...

I thought there was some adjustment at the door but it may only be at the body. The door really needs to go in provided the gaps at the hood and cowl are good. Does the bottom of the door line up well? If I had to move the door in and there wasn't any adjustment I would take metal off the mating surface of the hinge. The face where it bolts to the body. There is plenty of meat on the hinge to allow for small adjustments like this. You could also do some dolly work on the mount surface of the frame to try to get some room. If you over drive it then you can use body shims to perfect it. When you work on the lunar surface you need to guide coat. Some cheap black lacquer spray paint or some good dry powder guide coat. Work on the panel, then guide coat. Sand with some 180. The high spots show up first. Work them down some. The low spots (where the guide coat remains) need to come up. Then repeat, repeat, repeat... If you have an area of stretched metal (if it took a pretty hard hit) you may need to shrink it. Shrinking discs work well but a propane torch also works and sometimes it is easier to use. Heat the spot some, cool with a wet rag or you can let it air cool. I always use a wet rag. It is amazing how it will tighten up a panel.

Where did you source that air cleaner? Is the foam oiled?