Patcon

Fascinating, this is what I have. @Mike Any ideas why mine is different? Windows 7 running Firefox

Thanks, I didn't know nylon would absorb water, fascinating. I may try that. The tranny it fit's is an odd 4 speed out of Cody's goon. Really short in length with a large flat cover on the bottom. Will probably never be used again, so if I ruin it, it's not a huge loss

Can you show me in a screen shot? I don't think I have it. It's possible with my diminishing eyesight I am missing it but it's more likely one of my add-ons is blocking it

I am too. Which page? The forum page or the home page...?

Excellent!

Almost a hundred members showing in the area. Surely someone could salvage some of this @hiyabrad not an early car but you might know somebody who could save the pieces. Maybe a local Z mechanic who could salvage stuff

Thanks Chris How do you navigate to it on the site?

Thanks Zed I took a few whacks at the one I con't use but it didn't want to move so I left it f or now. If we have too much speedo error, I will have to try to source the correct one. I have heard many of these are NLA

How much grease was in those half shafts? They look like they have gotten a little warm at some time

Where is the member map these days? I can't find it...

I was surprised the hatch glass was still intact too! Somebody needs to pick this one up.

I thought this was the case You don't! Unless you go aftermarket EFI or turbo and aftermarket EFI

How large of a wafer kit did you source? The ASP one? I ordered the KLOM's for that reason. All of the sources I found for them online seemed to all be direct ship out of China

I thought I would add this here as an easy way to keep info together. I am trying to change speedo drives between different transmissions. Is the metal shaft part of the speedo gear or do the gears press onto the end of the shaft? The transmission I am replacing has a long speedo assembly and the Z transmission uses a shorter assembly. If I can move the plastic gear, I am good. If I can't I have to locate a different drive gear.

Any issues with a stage III came on an EFI car? I believe the OP is running EFI

You need to set the door with the fender on. Both ends need to line up. Get the fender end of the door right first. Use shims if necessary. One, or both or none is fine. If the rear doesn't line up, twist it like I illustrated in my "Lily" thread

Do you have a link too?

These numbers are based on an unwrecked car. They can vary wildly on old cars where overall condition throws the numbers around significantly But not nearly as elegant. The roof buckled too. But there would be a gold mine in little parts to strip off this car. I saw a set of window trim corners for $100 the other day. Not the long pieces just the corners! The little clips on the finishers, door locks, rear glass, badges, door sill finishers, choke cables. The SU's alone are worth $300-400. The dash looks really good if it's not a cap. Too far for me to consider, but I hate to see it go to scrap

Keep me in the loop. I may have 2 different locksmith's that might order them for me. I am also working on getting a tumbler kit. I ordered some pliers last night. I believe they are on a slow boat from China

https://www.copart.com/lot/25174219 This car was interesting until I saw the rear damage! There will still be a lot of good parts here. It should be really cheap!

Interesting link with tools and some caps. Not sure any of these caps are correct https://www.clksupplies.com/search?q=face*+cap*

What are you trying to do? Replace the actual glass?

I thought I covered this! I wouldn't add anything, CRC soft seal or other. If you prefer the older rubber, lens and chrome fine but I would spray anything on any of it!

Did you ever get's any pics of the welding in progress? I am interested to see how that was done and what materials were used.

Post it up publicly so I don't have to PM you too!