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moozieman

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About moozieman

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Map Location
    Xenia, Ohio
  • Occupation
    Plastics Manufacturing

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z

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  1. I was by myself when i tested this afternoon, so i did not try cranking it, but I did open the afm flap and for some reason, still read 0.00 V.
  2. I really do appreciate your help! I'll look into this and get back next time i'm at the garage.
  3. I appreciate the help and the thorough answer. Im confused as to which numbered terminals I should be looking at. You say W48? I'm not seeing any numbers. Are they on the connectors? I assume im doing something wrong. And where exactly should I be touching the meter leads? I tested by connecting them to the two contacts on the air meter plug. I never read any voltage, even when I was lifting the door in the afm.
  4. My fuel pump has never run correctly in my 1977 280z. Currently, I get no voltage coming off the wires leading up to the fuel pump when I crank. I swear I've read voltage off those wires before, but one day during the process of rebuilding, it just stopped. So what i've done is hard wired the pump to the battery with a switch in the middle and that's it. Is there any problem with this method? I just flip the switch and let the fuel pump run while running the engine. Ideally, I would like to fix this. I've read things about the fuel pump safety switch getting stuck and cutting off power. Is there anything else I could look into? How would I test this switch?
  5. wasnt using those, just a standard wrench
  6. I tried those. Maybe ill let it soak in some wd40 or sumn first
  7. Yes, it has been sitting. I can confirm that the calipers are on the correct side. One of the two front calipers work. And it's hard to work on because I can't get it taken off the brake line. The bolt is stuck and stripped.
  8. Spent some time working on my 1977 280z last night and was almost ready to drive it. Just had to tie off some loose ends and make sure that the brakes were operational. But that's the thing... the brakes DONT work. I can't seem to get any response from one of the front brake calipers. I can't collapse the pistons. I attempted to use a C clamp but to no avail. I ended up giving up on that and moved on to some other brake components. I recently installed a new master brake cylinder for the first time and it went reasonably smoothly. I filled the reservoir and began the process of bleeding the brakes. Only one of them bled. There's nothing coming out of the rears. The bleeding nut on the MC for the rears didn't release anything. Nor did the nut on the ceased caliper. After working on it for a while, the whole thing became a mess of stripped brake line nuts and ceased pistons. HELP.
  9. What kinds of things are mounted? What gauge steel is used on the factory ones?
  10. My 1977 280z appears to have been jacked up via the frame rail because it's all bent up. Looking to save some money on the replacement. Is it possible to fabricate my own frame rails and just cut out the damaged parts? I dont have much metal experience, but it seems like I could just use a metal brake and bend some sheet metal into the correct shape. Frame rails arent a particularly complicated shape.
  11. So ive been having trouble getting my fuel pump to work when plugged into the wiring harness. So i had to hardwire it straight to the battery with a switch in between. It wasnt a huge priority to fix but i've realized that my fuel gauge doesnt work either so im thinking theres a problem with the back end of the harness. I tested the connectors for the fuel pump that are under the passenger seat and was reading less than half a volt while the car was running. Any suggestions?
  12. Ohhhhh ok that makes alot more sense. I thought those nuts were part of the bolt cuz I could NOT get them off lol Thanks!
  13. is the hex nut thingy part of that screw? Or is is just a double threaded rod with a nut on it??
  14. So there is a total of two nuts on the screw? Before AND after the fan base?
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