moozieman

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About moozieman

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  • Map Location
    Xenia, Ohio
  • Occupation
    Plastics Manufacturing

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z

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  1. I believe that I have successfully grounded that wire. However when I go through your steps, I dont see all the wires that you are talking about. For whatever reason, I'm seeing what appears to be W11 on that relay connector. Is that correct?
  2. So how do I go about finding this disconnection?
  3. Had trouble prying those tabs open. Should i just use a screwdriver? I was concerned about all the old brittle plastic just crumpling.
  4. Okay I'll look into it again. I appreciate your help and your patience. What I had done was touched the red lead to the positive battery terminal and the black lead to W72 and read 0V.
  5. Im with my car right now. Luckily, the short doesn’t appear to have affected anything. Thank god! I going through your instructions now. I'm looking at the wiring leading up to the efi relay. I'm not reading anything off of W72. I have my multimeter on the battery and on W72. And when i say in the cabin, I mean under the passenger seat
  6. moozieman

    ECU Short?

    While doing some relay troubleshooting, I accidentally sent 12v through W34 (the ground wire on the air regulator) I saw sparks for a split second a pulled the wire off. This wire is a ground going up to terminal 34 on the ecu. How much damage did I just do??!
  7. I was able to work on it a little over the weekend and heres what I found... I tried jumping 12v straight off the battery and into W48 and when I did this, I finally began reading voltage on the fuel pump wires in the cabin! So I know that the error is before this. What would be my next item on the agenda? Also, what would I do if i shorted 12v through the ecu? My buddy whos helping me said he saw "sparks" which can only mean bad things. If it was shorted, would it just blow a fuse? After I thought that I might have shorted it, I quickly moved the wire over to W48 and still successfully read 12v. Therefore, the circuit is still being completed. Hopefully I didnt mess anything up too bad. The 12v was only in contact with W34 for a split second. Idk if that makes any difference.
  8. I was by myself when i tested this afternoon, so i did not try cranking it, but I did open the afm flap and for some reason, still read 0.00 V.
  9. I really do appreciate your help! I'll look into this and get back next time i'm at the garage.
  10. I appreciate the help and the thorough answer. Im confused as to which numbered terminals I should be looking at. You say W48? I'm not seeing any numbers. Are they on the connectors? I assume im doing something wrong. And where exactly should I be touching the meter leads? I tested by connecting them to the two contacts on the air meter plug. I never read any voltage, even when I was lifting the door in the afm.
  11. My fuel pump has never run correctly in my 1977 280z. Currently, I get no voltage coming off the wires leading up to the fuel pump when I crank. I swear I've read voltage off those wires before, but one day during the process of rebuilding, it just stopped. So what i've done is hard wired the pump to the battery with a switch in the middle and that's it. Is there any problem with this method? I just flip the switch and let the fuel pump run while running the engine. Ideally, I would like to fix this. I've read things about the fuel pump safety switch getting stuck and cutting off power. Is there anything else I could look into? How would I test this switch?
  12. wasnt using those, just a standard wrench
  13. I tried those. Maybe ill let it soak in some wd40 or sumn first
  14. Yes, it has been sitting. I can confirm that the calipers are on the correct side. One of the two front calipers work. And it's hard to work on because I can't get it taken off the brake line. The bolt is stuck and stripped.
  15. Spent some time working on my 1977 280z last night and was almost ready to drive it. Just had to tie off some loose ends and make sure that the brakes were operational. But that's the thing... the brakes DONT work. I can't seem to get any response from one of the front brake calipers. I can't collapse the pistons. I attempted to use a C clamp but to no avail. I ended up giving up on that and moved on to some other brake components. I recently installed a new master brake cylinder for the first time and it went reasonably smoothly. I filled the reservoir and began the process of bleeding the brakes. Only one of them bled. There's nothing coming out of the rears. The bleeding nut on the MC for the rears didn't release anything. Nor did the nut on the ceased caliper. After working on it for a while, the whole thing became a mess of stripped brake line nuts and ceased pistons. HELP.