jfa.series1

G'day Gav, I used a small non-metallic brush (pictured) with a good degreaser product to get all of the small grooves cleaned out - very tedious process. Then I fitted the plate to the edge of my workbench with a couple of spare screws to stabilize it and hit it with a polishing wheel and compound (also pictured). The grooves are hard to polish, a Dremel tool with a soft buffing tip can get in there and finish them. Screw the stainless screws into a piece of wood or the workbench and hit them with the buffing wheel. A final wipedown with NverDull or similar product can give a protective coating. Jim

All those sill plates and not two to be refreshed? Grab a choice handful, stick 'em in a long mailing tube and send them down here to the southern province. I'll have a go at getting them back to a 10!

Possibly what I don't see???

Automotive voyeurism demonstrated at its finest!

Hi Andy, I'm not clear on your comments - you ask about 18" then suggest you'll settle for 15". A lot of us are running with 16" wheels in 7" and 8" width because there are a lot of choices in tires. I have Konig Rewinds in 16X7", 0 offset, and 205/55 tires to maintain the OE diameter. No rubbing with this setup. If you go with 8" width, rubbing is more likely and rolling your fenders may be required. Try to stick with 0 offset or pretty close to that. There are lots of prior discussions on tires, all you have to do is search the appropriate forum.

Here's a sequence of pics for the seat bottom flap install. A similar process is for the seat back. A completed seat shows the effect of the tucks.

Hi Dave, The OE covers for both seat back and seat bottom each have a flap. When the flap is pulled thru the foam, a metal rod slides thru it and is secured to a longer rod. The purpose is to create the deep crease in the seat back or bottom. Yes, it is tight fit for the install but IMHO well worth the effort. Here's a pic of the metal rod installed and pig-ringed to the longer rod that holds it in place.

While the radiator is a more likely culprit, don't overlook the water pump. Just because it turns and there are no visible leaks, there might be internal damage to the impeller vanes that reduces the volume being circulated.

Get that radiator professionally repaired, including a flush and pressure test while its at the shop - money well spent. Have the shop pass on any quick paint job (if they still do that), then clean up the tanks and frame and give it a good coat or two of gloss enamel.

Did you really have to link my quote with THAT pic in the same post? Holy crapola!

Matt, Expect to remove the cover over the taillights in order to get room to remove the quarter panel at the antenna. It is likely you'll also have to remove the hatch strut and the bracket where the strut connects to the body. I realize you have a 280Z and I'm speaking from a 240Z point of view. On the 240's, the quarter panel has great difficulty coming out if the hatch bracket is still in place. Jim

Yep, the motor is self-grounding thru the case and the attached bracket at the bottom that bolts to the body with a wingnut. The two power leads are for the up/down action of the motor. The motor can easily be tested out of the case with a ground wire clipped to the frame and power applied to each lead. I have a spare Harada motor in excellent working order if one is needed.

Do you have this type of shift rod? Check out Carl Beck's site (http://www.zhome.com/) for a good discussion on the differences in the two transmissions. Find the Index of Technical Articles on the left side menu, then Swapping The Transmissions in a 240Z article on the right side.

That's it. Hope you have the original clips as the replacements are a bit dear!

I attached my new fender seals on the outboard side of the weld and placed them rearward. As to the battery holddown, the OE part is a rectangular metal frame that bolts to the firewall at the rear and has a hooked rod connecting to battery frame on the front side. Charles - replacement fender seals should be at MSA (haven't checked recently).

#248 in its current incarnation (photo shoot from a profile I wrote about the very same enthusiast now residing in AR). It is a beast - and a very beautiful beast at that!

So... if you were to machine the relief cuts and center bore in the puck, is it possible you might end up with flexibility that is similar to the OE part?

Here's your shift knob in an AMCO ad, only $4.95! I have one just like it. Note that pic of the rear of the car has the "early style" hatch - I'll not call it a Series 1 lest I upset certain personalities.

Timkens are listed at Rockauto.

Hey Charles, It's yours. PM me with your mailing address and I'll get it out tomorrow. Jim

I liberated this decal from a broken 240Z glove box door. It's not perfect but it might be better than the one you have. I'll even pick up the cost of the stamp (U.S. destination only). Jim

Oh boy - a Nikki!!! Nice find. The top plate on yours has more detail than the one in 26th's pic - a stamped # and two raised bosses.

Looks a bit like as battery hold-down clamp. If the early cars had the same rectangular frame as my car, this probably isn't Datsun or at least not 240Z.

Bruce - reach out to Mike W on this forum (Mike Wodopian), he's the event chairman or coordinator. Mike is one of our three Gold Cup winners from Memphis.

My loop-style carpet and seat covers came from Seatz, at the time they were still selling direct but no more. I'm not sure who is carrying their products now but a contact to them might provide that info. The "Where to Buy" button on their website has no content. http://www.seatzmfg.com/seatz/index.htm