jfa.series1

Fantastic! Congrats to both.

AmaZing work, Jim! All the more reason to work out a trip to AR to get caught up with you guys and all your projects.

Here's another pence worth: give a bit of reconsideration to holding out for a Series 1. There will be a far greater number of cars to choose from if you open it up to the Series 2 cars - late 71's and after, i.e. higher yearly production quantities. The early cars came with the Type A transmission which had some weaknesses. Also, I've heard there were unibody structure improvements in the later cars. Others on this forum may be able to comment on that.

Follow these links to the Hagerty site for the valuations on your cars. Click on the $ value to see the complete description of each of the condition ratings. Use your own judgement as to how your cars match today or their potential after you invest in their updates. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1971-Datsun-240Z https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1973-Datsun-240Z

OK folks, here's the 60-day bump to see who else is going to make it to the big dance. Hey Grannyknot, its your home turf - eh? Surely others in the northeast U.S. will be there.

Hmmmm... there's something vaguely familiar about that color (colour?). Thanks for the call last night, can hardly wait to see you guys again! Kind of like pee-in-my-pants excited.

About the only way you can check your engine # is to locate a couple of VIN's that closely bracket your VIN, then check their engine #'s if original. If your engine # is bracketed by those others, it is likely the original engine. Mind you - I said likely but not guaranteed. At one time there was an online spreadsheet that folks could enter their details. Unfortunately, that site is now gone. Perhaps someone on this forum made a copy for reference. Post your VIN to this thread and see if anything pops up.

Plans were in place, registration paid - then we found out our granddaughter's HS graduation is 06/02. Won't be making it to the fest this year and will really miss the Memphis-revisited reunion. Have fun!

Which is why I hedged my statement as a general rule of thumb. I can't confirm the color of the coil bracket. Another couple of examples are the fuel filter bracket and the brake vac check valve clamp on the firewall - both finished in black. Someone with a pure stock car such as AZ-240 would have to chime in with specifics if our OP wants to go with that level of detail.

With the fan issue settled, your second question is about the finish on the various fasteners and clamps. A general "rule of thumb" is that everything forward of the firewall has a yellow zinc or cadmium finish, everything aft of the firewall is white/clear zinc. One exception to this is the fuel cap, collar, and screws are all done in yellow zinc / cadmium. I think the early cars (perhaps all) had clear zinc finish on the OE hose clamps. I did all my OE hose clamps in yellow zinc for consistency under the hood. Also, the fuel rail is yellow zinc / cadmium.

Hockey pucks with a 1/4"W X 1/2"D slot are the perfect interface for using jack stands at the jacking points. A slotted puck can also used with a floor jack at the jacking point. Cheap, too!!!

No doubt while you were watching football with your favorite adult beverage close at hand.

If you go with a foreign sale, keep in mind that our fellow member Blue has good experience in this space. Consider contacting him if you need guidance or advice.

The deposit thru PayPal protects both of you whereas a funds transfer to your bank only protects you. The buyer's reluctance on this part is a bit suspicious. I agree totally with Jonathan, you need to have the total price in hand or in an escrow account before signing anything away.

Charles - sorry we won't see you this year (we'll always have Memphis ) Steve - congrats on your son's accomplishment. That takes a lot of parental support, keep up the good. I'm editing my original post to list attendees as they post.

I know Blue started a ZCON 2016 thread almost a year ago but its time to get a fresh nose count on who is going to join the festivities in Toronto 3 months from now. About a dozen or more members of this forum were able to shake hands, share stories, and enjoy some great fellowship in Memphis last year; we need to begin planning for the same (or better) get-together in Toronto. I'll kick it off - my event and hotel reservations are in place. Are your's??? Z'ya there! Adding attendees as they post below: Captain Obvious (Bruce) zKars (Jim) Blue (Philip)

Ahhh - that hole, sorry to mis-read your post. If you think about the OE configuration, that hole is always open so there should be no concern over air volume as the carbs will pull only what they need thru the filter. I've also got a header and left mine open, but then I don't have a potential varmint issue. Great looking finish on that filter box!

Cliff, I presume the hole your referring to is a short tube on the backside of the filter box, pointing down. If so, that was previously for the air pump. You don't want any open holes on the filter box other than the snorkel else you will be getting unfiltered air, dust, ...etc. pulled into the carbs. I plugged that hole with a 7/8" rubber cover for a chair leg from a big box store. I mounted the cover on a short piece of dowel, spun it in my drill and used sandpaper to change the shape down to a nice slim profile. Its a perfect fit, no tacky hose clamp required. Jim

Hi Chris, That is a beautiful car -well done! You did not share the VIN or build date with us but the carb snorkel suggests early to mid 1970. You build list is impressive to say the least. Hagerty is showing 1970 cars in condition 1 Concours at $55.5k, condition 2 at $34.2K. Your car certainly exceeds condition 2 so I would suggest your price will be in the range of $40k or more. As to shipping etc. - leave that to the buyer to arrange, FOB your driveway! As to money handling, talk to your bank about verified funds transfer options. No Nigerian Prince deals!!! https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1970-Datsun-240Z

With no weatherstrip or frames installed, this is sounding more like a door alignment issue at the hinges. Have the doors and hinges been taken off the car and recently reinstalled? If so, that's the place to begin. This is often a two-person job with one to hold the weight of the door while the other loosens / tightens bolts. Were there originally any shims where the hinge mounts to the A-pillar? These are important to get the door curve to match the fender curve - top to bottom. The rest is just tweaking the hinge bolts where they mount to the A-pillar and to the door.

Do you have new door weatherstrip installed? This is a pretty common problem with PRP door seals. Your comment about the driver's side suggests the lock is in a bind even though it closes. As you close the door slowly, is the window frame the first contact? If so, you might try to adjust it outboard a bit to see it that helps. No comment on the nylon locks as I've not had to replace any.

Hi Matt, You didn't say if the engine and tranny are out. If so, lots of opportunity to clean up the fuel and hydraulic lines as well as the wiring discussed above. Here is my resto'd engine bay - pretty well stock except for emissions plumbing gone from the balance tube. Like you, I had holes in the right side inner fender to repair from an a/c system no longer in the car. Jim

No scratches on the mounting bolts so I guess this really is the way you found it! Lucky to have working brakes - or, do they work?

Mike McGinness at Banzai is an honorable man, he has been supplying quality items to the Z community for many years as well as supplying excellent mechanical services. He is "old school" on his order and payment process. You should have NO concerns over sending him a check for your order. And... the engine paint he sells is ZCCA certified for color authenticity.

What the heck, here's another one.