jfa.series1

Help is available!

If you recently bought these new rubber bushings, you owe it to the community to share where your found them. These are pretty much in the unicorn category of replacement parts. Thanks.

PM sent to the poster.

Steve - as it turns out, we have a member in Denton (school and work!) that might be just the right guy. Time permitting, he's on this forum. I'll contact him to see if he can make some time. Jim

Yeah baby! Looking forward to re-connecting with friends from Memphis and expanding the circle with new CZCC friends.

Definitely a scam. This same ad was recently posted in the Lancaster PA CL and just pulled for fraud. The poster claims to be a female military officer in Hawaii with the car stored in the US at a base.

Not my car but my fellow club member's cars at Autorama for our annual display. This year it is a set of six amaZing Z32's. The convertible is a TT + 5-speed transplant replacing the stock NA + automatic. The red car is a 2009 ZCCA Gold Cup car. The green car is a 17k miles gem to be shown at ZCON Austin in the Stock class. The blue car is a LS swap. The black car is Nissan certified as one of the final 300 units produced in 1996. The white car is a full track car set-up.

WOW - did anyone catch the license plate number of that speeding troll? How do you think I was able to keep that pesky silver ball in place during my reassembly?

The "repair" to the TS switch is not technically difficult but it can be a bit exasperating to re-assemble as there is a tiny roller ball inside that a small metal contact plate pivots on. It does not like to stay in place. Don't expect a spray to correct fouled contacts. If you don't want to try this yourself, you can always get a refurbished one from Dave Irwin on an exchange basis. I don't have his contact info, perhaps another member can help out here. Check out some pics of a disassembly here: http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-turn-signal-switch/

On a 240Z, the TS flasher can is mounted to the steering column above the pedals - the OE can has a metal tab and a small metal screw holds it in place. The hazards flasher can is mounted to the passenger side kick panel.

I drove out to check on this car this afternoon and its every bit as sad as the ad photos suggest. Its a 01/71 car, VIN 19270, last registered in 1988. Lots of rust - floorboards, outer rockers, doglegs, rust and bondo in both rear quarters, rear valance, bottom of hatch. The cowl panel has gaping rust holes. Interior a real mess, inner rockers look to be compromised. The left door was jammed but able to force open so its likely the body is bent. The tires were pretty flat so unable to inspect frame rails. The seller thinks he has a $4k treasure. I suggested the money required to make it a decent car would put owner seriously underwater on finished value. I told him if he's interested in selling it at a parts car price to get back to me - I'm not holding my breath.

The middle pic is a cover recently rescued from a parts car and not yet subjected to my tender touches of cleaning and polishing. The bottom pic is another rescue, now thoroughly cleaned and polished, soon to be marketed to fellow enthusiasts.

Not my car, not my ad. This one popped up not far from me but I've not yet had time to get out to see it. Suffering from a lot of "patina" in all the wrong places. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/5992192788.html

I was wrong about the o-ring on the 12/71 car. I recalled the groove and thought of o-ring. Here's a sequence starting with my car: 1st pic - 12/70 car, o-ring set into the groove, OIL cap with no seal ring 2nd pic - 12/71 car, open groove, elephant cap with seal gasket ring 3rd pic - 07/72 car, no groove, elephant cap with seal gasket ring Hope this helps explain some of the changes.

I'll check them later this morning and post the findings.

When I tore my car down, the clips were in a patina finish . I suspect they were originally unfinished spring steel. I would opt for either a gloss black finish or clear zinc since most but not all the plated items aft of the firewall are clear zinc finish.

I have the valve covers from two parts cars - one a 12/71, the other a 7/72. Both have the elephant cap but only one has an o-ring - it came off the earlier car.

+1 on the spring steel aspect. The plenum/gasket assembly has to be held tightly to the underside of the hatch to provide the proper water seal. SS is nice from a non- corrosion perspective but it won't provide the proper tension. I often ask myself if I'm smarter than the team that designed all this stuff.

Not rust... patina!

I also used the aftermarket gaskets on my project, well pleased with the fit. I have a set of new ones available at some savings, PM me if you have an interest.

The "C" clips perform dual duty: they hold the plenum/gasket assembly against the underside of the hatch and the holes in the "C" clips are the receivers for the pins on the silver grills.

A set of slotted wheels is available in my area, thinking of picking them up for cleanup and resale. I've not yet checked them out and the seller does not have a price posted (yes, I've sent him an inquiry). I'd appreciate any feedback on prices folks have paid for a set of similar wheels. Thanks.

Hi Steve, Dave has contacted me regarding Autorama - I'm the club's car show coordinator this year. As it turns out, we did a 6-car S30 tribute display last year and will be presenting a Z32 tribute this year. I'm looking forward to connecting with Dave and have directed him to a qualified shop to give the car its arrival inspection. We're looking forward to a most excellent S30 and owner addition to our club membership. Jim

If you support the engine (not directly on the pan), the front suspension easily comes out as a unit and goes back in easy-peasy. These pics were taken with my engine and transmission already out but the principle is the same. Some long blocks under the edges of the pan would work, or an engine hoist to lift it just a bit would likely be the best approach.

I had the same thought after my resto project - stock 2.4 with a 3-row radiator, stock fan & clutch, new 160 thermostat. The car would not get up to a proper operating temp so I swapped out to a 180 and all is well. No A/C on the car, limited summer driving but it handled the heat and downtown driving at Memphis ZCON with no issues.