jfa.series1

The article says it all. http://www.forbes.com/sites/samabuelsamid/2016/11/10/nissan-to-launch-2017-juke-black-pearl-edition-at-los-angeles-auto-show/#44914e9e11dd

Your manual transmission is a Type "A", F4W71A. I've heard that rebuild kits are no longer available for that model. Additional details on that model are on Carl Beck's site here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg

We've always known how smooth a inline 6 is and Mercedes Benz is going back to the future with this announcement. Given the relationship Renault/Nissan has with MB for the smaller 4-cylinder engines, might we hope to see one of these new monsters in a Nissan product? We can always dream of what might be! http://jalopnik.com/mercedes-brings-back-the-inline-six-with-408-hp-and-mar-1788404634

"rough condition price is final, no negotiation" - sounds like a really nice guy to do business with, NOT! I shudder to think what else is wrong with the car.

A brief article on his story: http://articles.latimes.com/2006/may/05/local/me-peterson5

Nice story, thanks for sharing it with us.

Hey Curtis, Thanks for the response. I'm looking for a 70-72 bumper, condition of the overriders and rubber is not important as I plan to have all holes welded closed then get it re-chromed. Straight is excellent! Some small pitting can probably be cleaned up with a drop of weld. I would appreciate any pics and your willingness to ship to 75082. If it looks good, we can do pricing via PM. Thanks again, Jim

Steve - I have a 4-speed I pulled from a 07/72 parts car, VIN 95652. It has a switch near the bell housing at the fill plug and another at the tail end above the speedo connection. I presume the forward switch is for the reversing lights and the rearward one is a neutral interlock. Jim

No need to remove any interior trim for the hatch seals work. The BD seals have typically been made by PRP, will likely be a bit fat and give you the push-back I mentioned. For the outer seal, get the one-piece unit from MSA.

Both the inner and outer hatch seals are far easier to replace with the hatch off. And if you're doing one seal , do both! If you decide to so, its best to remove the hatch from the hinge and leave the hinge attached to the body. The body attach points are where all the adjustments take place. If your hatch aligns well with the body, don't futz with the body mount. With a new inner seal be ready for push-back (literally) when you close the hatch - it takes a while for the seal to relax. A slight adjustment up to the striker loop on the hatch lock is usually called for and you can adjust it down over time.

I used an old, very clean cotton car cover topped by a couple of layers of old bath towels used for various garage projects. The bath towels will absorb any soft impacts. No dings, scratches or other miscues during the assembly process in my very crowded garage. Anything rubber might interact with fresh paint.

Mark - pull up the pdf file just below the last pic, all measurements are there. Jim

This is actually my second pass at this. Last year I ordered a unit from Futofab and had the same issue. Dave asked me to take a series of measurements of the car body and the OE bumper, which I did and documented back to him. He allowed me to return the bumper for a full refund including my initial shipping cost (quality guy!). I bought this one because of the crazy good price and the faint hope it might fit better. I've now learned that all of the bumpers sold by Futofab, MSA, BD, and perhaps others are coming from a single mfr. in Taiwan. Dave did additional research on OE measurements and got them to the mfr. for a revision in the specs. He recently told me he thinks revised bumpers will begin shipping sometime in Dec. At that rate, they'll probably be available in the U.S. sometime late 1Q. The problem will be with vendors clearing out old stock prior to shipping the new versions. How will anyone know what version they are getting? IMG_20160302_0001.pdf

Don’t go into a happy dance until you have read all of this post. I tried fitting the new bumper to my car and determined the curve of the center piece was not a good match for the back of the car. Note that the car is accident-free and all of the body is exactly as delivered from the factory. Essentially, the arc on the bumper is less than the arc on the body (and the OE bumper). When attached to the stock mounts, the center of the bumper was pressing hard on the body. I attempted to warp the bumper section to increase the arc with little success. I did manage to introduce some very slight waves in the center of the bumper’s top surface – not obvious but there if you look hard for them. While the unit may not be perfect for a concours car, it should be OK for any other. So… I’m done with this bumper and will continue to look for an OE unit I can refurbish. There is NO damage to the chrome finish and everything is re-packed in the factory shipping materials. The price is $150 plus actual shipping cost – FEDEX ground should be no more than $30 anywhere in the U.S.

You're going to have serious fun with that Miata - I can just envision the surprise from the Mustang and Camaro crowd, probably some 'Vette owners too. We'll miss your posts and conversations on this forum. Keep us updated on your sale, it will contribute to our ongoing valuation discussions.

So... planning to sell the car you say. Something else coming along?

DJ - If the front bumper has the rubber strips, you probably want to make the rear look the same. Unless otherwise specified, most/all of these aftermarket bumpers are styled like euro and JDM units without the bumper strips. I think Nissan did the rubber strips only for the North American market. On that new rear unit, there's likely no holes for the small vertical overriders or bumperettes as I usually call them. Jim

The Mazda side is also closing down, it was in the farewell letter by the president.

Almost every paint job has to be buffed out to raise the gloss factor as well as reduce or eliminate any eggshell texture. First - avoid rubbing compounds! They are way too aggressive for a fresh coat of paint. Go back to your painter and ask him if it was buffed out. A special liquid product is used for that process.

I joined the rear bumper purchase team also. That plus my NOS JDM front will allow me to swap out from my painted set. Full set of pedal pads for $4.50, L/R taillight gaskets for $6 each. Crazy good prices on many items.

If you have access to a lift and a transmission support, then pulling the transmission is pretty easy. If the car has to stay on the ground, then the MGB approach is best.

That sounds like a very thorough plan. Agreed, working around the hinges is a major PITA but at least you have a good expectation as a result of your dry fit. I've not seen the 1-piece item but I have seen the 3-piece - the upper portion has a tubular cross-section and the two side pieces are flat like a blade. It is a strange factory design but that's what they did. I suspect your 1-piece will be a better overall item. Have patience and don't overlook a little liquid anti-anxiety potion if the going gets tense.

I received a most amazing and unique gift from my very good friend Keith today (aka Zed2 to this bunch). Its a pristine dealer badge from the dealer where I bought my Z back in '71. I have the badge that was attached to my car at the time of purchase - attached as with Philips head screws. This one is probably a later version after they abandoned the screws in favor of double-stick tape. As such, it looks a bit like automotive jewelry unmarred by unsightly holes. Thanks Keith, you made this a very special day!

Your last pic does show a misalignment in the right side dogleg area. This suggests there was some body work done here - possibly repair/replacement of the dogleg area due to rust. To correct this will require additional body work in that area to pull the fender lip in closer to the car and likely paint work to cover the repair. Since your body shop is now out of business this will be additional costs from your pocket - your car, your choices. As Mart suggests, it is something not easily spotted and you might be better off leaving it as is.

Cliff - you titled the thread as U-Haul. Are you using a U-Haul rental? I used one for the Memphis ZCON so I have some experience. If so, load it nose first and be ready for some serious tongue weight. The std. front ties will secure the car very well but I suggest you pick up two ratchet straps for the rear and diagonally secure the rear in an "X" to keep it from shifting sideways.