Zed Head

There is no link in the starter motor circuit. The current passes directly down the positive cable to the starter motor and through the starter motor to ground. That's why the cable is so big.

You have a DVM so, really, you should be checking for short circuits. Every circuit should have some resistance. I'm not familiar with the link or links on a 71, so can't really imagine what might have shorted when you turned the key to Start. The wire to the solenoid either has fuse or is just a straight shot to the solenoid, I think. Maybe an early Z owner knows what might have shorted. The starter motor itself doesn't have a fuse it runs through the positive battery cable. You didn't say how you used the DVM to test the link. The fusible links are known for bad connections. Those exposed spade terminals corrode. It really sounds more like the heat from current flow caused an open circuit. Just a guess. Poke around with the DVM to be sure.

When I was in high school a "friend" showed me how to wrap a blown fuse in Juicy Fruit wrapper to make the fuse work. It burned all of my headlight wiring. Those old Juicy Fruit wrappers must have been like 40 amp.

Should show up on fuel pressure.

Here's the thread I was thinking about. He created his own solution.

I am 99% sure that I have seen the problem with that type of mount before. There's a thread where somebody removed their old bushings then found that the new ones wouldn't fit. I'll see if I can find it, but you might search around in the meantime. Short answer is "I don't think replacement bushings exist". For whatever reason, Nissan doubled up on rubber back there. You've got a rubber mount on a rubber mount. Never really understood why. And the mount doesn't see much twist because the motor mounts stop the engine from twisting. It's not like the mustache bar mount. Nissan actually calls it an "engine mount". Anyway, don't tear it apart assuming that you'll find a fix.

I think that if you put washers on the inside of the fork you could tighten it up. Shim it.

We had a good conversation about damper/pulleys in the thread below. Don't forget that somewhere along the line they moved the timing degree marks from the damper to the timing tab/plate/thing. 72 or 73 I think.

Note to future car sellers - close the hood (bonnet), just to show that it will.

The guy did not take $16,500 for his off-road 280Z. There's even a Baja type video on the page.

You can get a fair idea of diff looseness just by lifting with your hands on the mustache bar ends, and using a jack under the diff nose. The clunk at the diff nose seems to come from the diff nose dropping back down after it lifts up under load. Lift-clunk-lift-clunk, as you shift gears and accelerate. The torque specs are in the FSM. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

I have a pair of these that would do the job. They come in small size. Hope you haven't replaced the seal yet, you don't want to try to squeeze in there with the seal installed. Worst case, if it does fall in to the cover it won't hurt anything. It will just sit there, waiting for some future owner to find and wonder about. https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Original-Locking-Pliers-1602L3/dp/B0000BYD9A/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=vise-grip&qid=1614964787&s=hi&sr=1-8

Three Datsuns up today. A silver 78 with normal shine, the Mad Max 76, and a 68 Roadster. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-86/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-44/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-datsun-1600-roadster-18/

Didn't mean to blow past your earlier comment CO. You said keyway, I thought you were talking generally about being careful with the damper installation. Once AV8 put his picture up it was easy to show that they key itself was about to get pushed out of its slot. Good versus bad. I was thinking the same thing about the bright light and the groove except I was going to add reading gasses or magnifying glass. Should be able to see if the key is getting pushed out of its groove. That whole damper/crank snout area needs much more finesse than it seems. The parts all look stout but they need special attention.

This is a little metal rectangle (actually more of a slice of a circle, rectangular in one direction ) that fits in to a slot in the crankshaft nose. Proper name is woodruff key, I think. Don't lose it, it would be easy to push it in to the cavity. Looks like you almost did. Use a magnet and/or pliers and pull it out. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_(engineering)

Notice the key in the keyway also. Good Very bad. You were probably going to fix it but just in case. Might as well take it out and put it in a safe spot while you work on the seal.

$67,000. A few thousand dollars for a fresh clear coat seems like a good investment if you're planning to sell. The seller showed all of the matching numbers stuff but there was a lot that was not original. Kind of blows up my "originality pays off" theory.

Good luck NZ. Modern medicine is pretty amazing. Any thoughts on how you got it? Asbestos? Family disposition? My mother did everything right, as she said, and still got it. Lots of chance involved, no guarantees. All you can do is improve yours odds.

One of the silver ones, a 73, is up today. Already at a huge number, $48,250. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-152/

Found an old thread about it. Wonder where it ended up. Still in Chicago maybe? Jason? Are you out there? https://www.zcar.com/threads/how-much-is-my-240z-worth.99911/ https://zhome.com/History/69ZArticle.html

Says Safari but looks Mad Max to me. 1976 280Z, slightly modified. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-44/

I'd put it on BAT, it's the hot scene these days. You'll have a set of good pictures stored for the world to see, and it will go to someone that values it. Just because you sell your Z doesn't mean you can't still be part of the Z world.

I think this yellow one is still out there Mark. It's more visible now, the shed has fallen down around it, but I don't think it's moved at all. It has to be full of mice, just has to. 45.60803579621207, -122.86242506500992

This is an old episode apparently, but it's the first time I 've seen the show. It will hurt to watch if you're a fan of early and original. Sorry if you can't get it, I have youtubeTV and it's an option. Short story - somebody turned #89 in to a 432R tribute replica. It looks neat. But. Might have been posted already . https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4326864/ https://www.yidio.com/show/garage-squad/season-1/episode-3/links.html https://simkl.com/tv/52964/garage-squad/season-1/episode-3/

You probably want - 2122 here. I think that it's the tallest. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2122 Put "collar" in the search box to see more. https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? @Terrapin Z might have one and could measure it for you too, probably. You should get more measurements though. Distance from the bottom of the pressure plate/clutch cover to the surface that the throwout bearing sits on. Then you can do the math to see which collar/sleeve you need.