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spoolin4life

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About spoolin4life

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  1. I have not. I feel it could be the volume as the triples need volume but not pressure as you said.
  2. I may just go the electric route with a fpr I have another mechanical pump I'll most likely swap to to see if that makes a difference but the sure bet is an electric if the mech. pump can't keep the supply up.
  3. The carbs are getting roughly 3.5psi each. I found out my return line was closed and when I went to open it the car wouldn't even run properly at all - made the car run even worse than before. I feel like like you don't need a return line with the dhla 40s. I don't have a fpr. Just the stock mechanical pump. Do you run a return line?
  4. I don't know, my car only has the mechanical pump from the factory, so my pressure is regulated by an Aeromotive FPR. I have just the stock mechanical pump but I'm assuming it's the top screw. I'll have to try playing with it when I put a fuel pressure gauge in line. Is there a chance it's something vacuum related that could cause this?
  5. That is the logic I deduced as well. If the floats aren't allowing fuel into the bowl after a heavy throttle pull then there's nothing continuously going in. So amateur question, is the top screw on the fuel pump how you adjust fuel pressure?
  6. Ya I don't wanna wash the cylinders out. I don't think the wideband is faulty, it's roughly a year old and I bought it used. I mean I have a spare i could try installing. But when I did an oil change on the old engine it did reek on fuel so I know the wideband is correct on that end and when it went super lean yesterday that's when it misfired during driving so it seems accurate. The sensor bung is located roughly 2 feet back from where the pipes merge from the stock exhaust manifold. Maybe it's to far down? But it shouldn't be doing this when I have the mixture screws turned 2.5 turns out. And yes it stayed at 22 at idle speed for quite some time after the one WOT pull to 4000rpm. That's when it experienced the misfire. Ya very confusing. I'll have to check my fuel pressure as well.
  7. So if I'm driving around just cruising it's very rich at 8-9ish. But if I go WOT to 4500rpm I'm still rich at 9ish. I haven't pushed the car passed 5000 rpms ever. But as soon as I let off the gas the afrs go to 22 and stay there for a while (yesterday was well over 15 seconds at 22) until it starts misfiring. That's when I noticed the misfire again on the new engine. Luckily it went away when I richened the mixture screws and I don't think it harmed anything. Even when I rev the car briefly it goes pig rich and when I let off the throttle it'll go super lean for 6-7 seconds. That's far too long even for efi. My guess at this point would be sticky floats. I wish I knew more about these cars and how side drafts work ?
  8. Hey Jon refer to my recent reply. Maybe you know what it's not getting fuel. Scared the heck out of me. New engine started misfiring but then did a compression test and it was 150psi across the board
  9. I pulled that engine. Bottom end was fine. Valves were burnt ? but I think I know the issue. My car is going super lean after a pull. Runs super rich during cruising and during a pull. But as soon as I lean it out even a bit and then do a quick pull it spikes lean to 22 and stays there for a good 12 seconds. I guess it runs super lean and then burns the valves from being too hot. Almost did the same thing to the engine I just put in today. Any idea what would cause it to starve for fuel after a pull?
  10. I did a couple tests wide open and no throttle at all. Numbers were roughly 110, 90, 110, 120, 120 and 130. We compressed some air into the cylinders and the bottom end seems solid still. I'm guessing valve issues still. And oddly enough the driver side seemed slack and the passenger was tight. My car is lhd
  11. I checked the basic stuff and valve clearances are good. Do you know how much play should be on the lose side of timing chain? I've read different information. Seems there's a cm of play on the driver side and the passenger side is very tight.
  12. I'll see what I can check on my own. I'm not the most mechanical savvy person unfortunately. But I'll let you know what I turn up.
  13. It's a standard N42 top and bottom. My car went super lean under deacceleration with load still on the motor (roughly 20ish) after a pull. I might have burned the valves. That's my guess. Either that or my builder didn't do the greatest job and it was a matter of time
  14. If I had to guess it's valves as I didn't hear any detonation. I'm going to do a better inspection tomorrow night. I may just pull the head off and see from there. Hoping it's nothing in the bottom end.
  15. Ya I'm not sure. The cars compression was good prior to doing the few full throttle pulls. The car still runs but I'm obviously not driving it now. I'm hoping it's just head issues. More datsun problems
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